After having worked in a climbing gym (sort of, mostly vertical walls), meeting belay partners and climbing outside on single sport climbs and multipitch climbs (biggest one being around 900 feet), I have left that job and I have just joined a bouldering gym and am now ready to begin training for climbing. This past year has more or less served as a skills, techniques and training volume period.
I still must tread softly, because one source states that it may take up to three years for your tendons to catch up with your muscles and so a year in isn't nearly enough time for me to rush into an intense training regime. That being said however, here is some of what is going on:
1 Aug
A few hours of Bouldering: Failing on some V4's, getting some V3's, V2's, and V1's
2 Aug
2 hours bouldering: tackling V3's and V2's, ~15 minutes swim in the Ocean
3 Aug
~20 minute run (~3.4 miles), 8 x 8 burpees and a cool down stretch in the evening sprinkler system of the neighborhood park
4 Aug
Bouldering ladders:
4 V0's, 4 V1's, 4 V2's,4 V3's, Failed like 10 V4's, Did 1 V3 and failed a bunch,4 V2's, 4 V1's
(This was too hard, I'm gonna knock it down next time).
Did some amtagonists and core: 4 sets of 20 pushups, 2 sets of 25 leg paddles, 1 set of partner leg throwdowns, finger extensions with rubber band (2 sets of 100 each hand)
6 Aug
~20 minute run and a cool down stretch in the evening sprinkler system of the neighborhood park
9 Aug
Bouldering endurance:
4 sets of 10 minutes on bouldering wall with 10 minute rest between sets
10 Aug
25 minute run ~3.5 miles (slow time was due to running with a friend, but I made the best of it by jumping over obstacles, diving between trees, etc., 8x9 burpees and a cool down stretch in the evening sprinkler system of the neighborhood park.... again
12Aug -------------------------No tendon pain, woohoo!
Bouldering ladders:
5 V0's, 5 V1's, 5 V2's, 5 V1's, 5 V0's
+
antagonists: a set of 20 reverse dumbell lifts (or whatever they're called)
5 sets of PVC bar with hanging weight lifts with....10 lbs?
13Aug
8x9 burpees and some stretching
16 Aug
4x4's (4 sets of 4 climbs in a row. Rest time ~ climb time)
Did 11 on lead and the remaining 5 on autobelay... good thing too, because my climbing was S#!t on the last round. Climbs were sandbagged 5.6's through 5.9's Some of which might be the equivalent of a senderone 5.10b
+
Antagonists: 3 sets 100 rubber band extensions, then forearm stretch out.
17 Aug
Bike ride to and from school 30 min each way
+
warmup then mile run-------------------5:54
+
antagonists and core: 100 pushup variations and 100 reps of ab stuff
+
....sprinkler shower.... I think there's something wrong with me, haha!
19 Aug
Bike ride to school then to and from Staples in Ladera Ranch, then back home
20 Aug
Bouldering Volume:
5 V0's, 5 V1's, 5 V2's, (attempt a few V3's) 5 V1's, 5 V0's + Sprinkler shower and stretch!
23 Aug
Bouldering Endurance
4 sets of 10 minutes on bouldering wall with 10 minute rest between sets.
24 Aug
Antagonists and core: 4 sets of 25 partner leg lift throw downs, and max pushups in one set---------70
26 Aug
Bouldering around (warmed up on 10 climbs V0's-V1's) Projected some V2's and V3's
+
Antagonists
(2 sets of 15 "hammer twists" and 10 PVC pipe rolls)
27 Aug
Burpee jumps around a path in the park ~1/8 mile. Done in 3 sets with reps: 27-20-10
....and of course a sprinkler shower
28 Aug
Bouldering endurance
4 sets of 10 min on 10 off-----Felt more solid than the last time I did this at Hangar 18
+
antagonists
(30 8 lb reverse wrist curls, 2 sets of 20 hammer twists, 10 PVC pipe rolls, 2x10 DB bench---25 lbs
2x100 rubber band flexion and stretch.
30 Aug
Climbed 10 routes (lead 7, TR'd 3)
11b dihedral TR-10a-10b-11a-10b-10d(big overhang)-10c-10b-11d TR-11c TR