September 2017

Did lots of climbing outside
(73 climbs in July, 50 ish in August logged on Mountain project)

(There's more, for example, the "invisible wall" in Santa Barabara. I did several routes but they don't yet exist on Mountain Project, so once I add them, they shall be backlogged)


Gonna start logging hangboarding sessions (~1x per week for now)

9/6
Of the 6 edge positions (easiest being 1 and hardest being 6....I think)
I did grip 4 and 1 (once failing on 4)

Each set is 7 seconds on, 5 seconds off using Impetus timer
(Wearing only underwear for this sesh 😉 )

Set 1
       Position 4   2 Successful
                          2 Fail
       Position 1   1 Successful
                          1 F
Set 2

       Position 4   1 S
                          1 F
       Position 1   2 S
                          2 F

Notes: Did in the morning before eating/drinking, but after restroom. I noticed earlier today opening a drawer my left ring finger deep down hurts, hopefully not a pulley injury. It could have been from when I stabbed my hand opening that f***ing avocado. Slight pain during this session because it was strained earlier.... never noticed before. Hopefully not a big deal

9/12
Did some outdoor bouldering at Pirate's cove. Did a V2 and its V2+/V3- which is now my new highest outdoor bouldering grade (4 attempts or so)

9/16
Hangboard session
Set 1
       Position 4   2 S
                          1 F (nearly successful)
       Position 1   1 S
                          2 F
Set 2

       Position 4   0 S
                          2 F (1st one was nearly successful)
       Position 1   1 S
                          3 F (1st one nearly S)

Notes: Did this in the evening after eating dinner, because I'm not good at planning. Perhaps this can explain the poorer performance than last time. No finger pain, though I noticed it during the warmup

9/26
Hangboard session
Set 1
       Position 4   3 S
                          1 F (~4 seconds)
       Position 1   2 S                        
Set 2

       Position 4   2 S
                          1 F (~3 seconds) (suspected I was gonna fail, went for it just because)
       Position 1   3 S

Notes: Did much better on this. Conducted around 4pm few hours after brunch. Did a "fun" warmup then went for it. Used chalk because it's extra warm today.
possible reasons for success: Chalk, nature of the warmup (boost in testosterone?)
Finger Status: It didn't hurt, although I know something is still wrong

July 2017

20JUL:

It's been just over a year since I last posted. That's the problem with these things "training logs" and whatever just get hard to be motivated to maintain.

Attached is a photo of my most recent Mountain Project stats














Seeing that it has now been over 3 years that I've begun climbing, I've just ordered a hangboard (My finger tendons should be able to handle the stress now) Trango Rock Prodigy.

Current goals:
Be comfortable climbing 11- sport outside

How to get there: Pyramiding. I read somewhere something like "Dani Andrada reportedly redpointed over 50 13a's before attempting a 13b" Or something like that. So before getting to low 11's I need a sufficiently large 10+'s OS or RP

As of now:
10a   10 total:    9 OS (1 solo) , 1 RP
10b   5 total?    (2 multipitch so the numbers are a bit off)
10c   3 maybe
10d   2   1OS 1RP
11a   1 (maybe) 1 pitch of a multipitch (babyface)
11b   0
11c   0
...     0

So it appears I need to do more 10b's and c's (probably a few more 10a's TBH)

21JUL
Did Igor unchained. A classic 5.9+ sustained on trad. Pulled gear and fell twice so apparently I'm not a 5.9 climber yet (can't truely be a 5 anything climber unless you can climb that grade in all styles [trad, crack, very old, etc.])

22JUL
Did a tough TR of an 11+ finger to hand crack (pretty sure I skipped the actual 11+ part anyway :[ )

29JUL
Did 29 boulder problems for my 29th Birthday with my lovely girlfriend
💪