Sunday, January 7, 2018

October 2017 - Jan 2018

So that hand pain turned out to be a bigger deal. It hurt to pull up the window switch in my car, or suspend something lightly from my left ring finger.

I took it easy and didn't climb all of the spring quarter (except one climbing comp to get raffle tickets for the end of the year) Now I'm easing back into it:

Did 2 separate climbing days in December with Morgan at sender one and it felt pain free

1 Jan
Aided a 5.7 in Ortega with Morgan, then practiced jugging

5 Jan
A few hours light indoor bouldering at school (v3 max)

7 Jan
Some more light bouldering (v3 max) and TR/autobelay (succesfully climbed 10a, two 10bs, tried two 10cs, an 11d and an 11a)

No pain, but I know it's not fully healed. Gonna try to go once/week for a bit

12 Jan
More bouldering and some Autobelaying (ARC training, tried a 10b twice then a 9 for one round, then another 10b once and a 9 twice) TR'd a route being built. The route setter needed a guinea pig

UCSB climbing team schedule for this winter quarter works out really well with my schedule. For the first time that I've seen, they're offering practices in the middle of the week that aren't from 9-11 at night. So every Tuesday and Thursday, I can (and will) be doing an hour of practice T and Th immediately following tumbling (so I'll already be well warmed up)

18 Jan
First of such team practices. We got a moon board this quarter, so on top of the boulder problems, I tried one of the V4 standards, It wasn't successful, but perhaps the next time. Was doing moderate B's (of our team's grade scale from the comps, we have 3 classes, A, B and C.

PRACTICE GOALS:
-Get at least one C, the easiest that exists, after each comp reset.
-Do all the V4 standards on the Moon board