Sunday, April 8, 2018

February 2018 - April 2018

Last couple of months have been:
Tumbling, learned some sills, gainers (standing, walking, scoot), wall flips off hands, barrany
Some climbing. Usually 2 1-2 hour bouldering sessions at the climbing team wall. Did a J-tree trip with Morgan, lots of good slab climbs. Nearly onsighted "Heart of Darkness" 11a on TR. Getting slightly better, but still much room for improvement


GOALS REVISED:
-Apparently there are way too many V4 standards on the moon board, so I will go with:
Do 20 so far I have 1. 1/20
-Still want to do that UCSB C level climb. I came close to one, just the last move. Perhaps next

Late March, Morgan invited me to Sender one. Did 2 V5's (if that counts... since it's sender grading) and Several V4's and V3's.... Wondering how much I've grown as a climber. Certainly have gained many experiences, but as far as getting physically stronger, progress seems slow

I feel like my hand is healed enough, so I'm going to begin hangboarding again once per week, Same format as before. 2 rounds of 6 sets of 7 seconds on, 5 seconds off with a 2 minute break between rounds

4/8
Set 1
       Position 4   6 S     --------   All 6 successful! (First time, I think)
     
Set 2
       Position 4   2 S
                          1 F (last second)
       Position 1   2 S
                          1 F (last 2 seconds)
Notes: pretty darn good for some months break. Used chalk, maybe there is something to this whole chalk thing

4/15
Set 1
       Position 4   6 S   
   
Set 2
       Position 4   4 S
                          1 F (3 seconds in)
       Position 1   1 S

Notes: good, but I think I need to make absolutely usre my thumb doesn't pinch the side. It helps too much. My last failure in position 4 was because I actively decided to disengage my thumb.
NO THUMB NEXT TIME!! (Fun warmup)

4/22
Set 1
       Position 4   6 S 
 
Set 2
       Position 4   2 S
                          1 F (3 seconds in)
       Position 1   3 S
Notes: No thumb cheating this time. Definitely was more difficult to maintain. Couldn't hold on a single second longer at the end