The Rock Climbers Training Manual (RCTM) came in the mail!!
In mild summary it works with periodization with the different phases being:
Base Fitness&Skill Development, Strength, Power, Power Endurance, Performance, Rest
All done over a 4 month period. But seeing as my school quarter is 10 weeks then there's a 3 week break (during which I will be at least a full week off and I don't want those 3 weeks away to fall right in the middle of, say, the power phase or something), I plan on doing a shorter one, allotting 2 weeks apiece to each, then followed by that pretty long break... So here goes nothing:
(Doing this with a partner for motivation)
1 Oct
ARCing #1 -- 2 x 20 mins on (20 mins off)
As the last few times, I'm climbing up and down auto belays:
Round 1: 10?, 8 x2, 8 x2, unknown (8?) x2, 10b (ALMOST made it the whole way, but slipped during the last 10 ft of the downclimb), 8 (only up, timer ended)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8 + 1up
Round 2: 10b, 8 x2, 8+ x2,10a (fell halfway on the down climb), 7, 8 x 1.5 (timer)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7 + 1 up + .5 down
3 Oct
ARCing #2 -- 2 x 25 mins on (20 mins off)
Decided in an attempt to mimic outdoor climbing to make sure I only step on features and small jibs. Priority: features/smearing, then jibs (of any route, not just the one I'm on), if non available, then step on the big hold available in my route, but stand far away back to limit my usage of the large foot space.
keys: (fo) - features only, (fj) features and jibs. (u) up only, no downclimb because I fell, (t) timer went off, Unless otherwise noted, assume a full up and downclimb performed
Round 1: 8 x 2 (fo), 10b, 9+ (fj), 7(fj), 8 (fj, t)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6
Round 2: 7(fo) x 1.5 (one full, u -- kicked out because belay test started), 9 x 1.5 (fo, u on 2nd), 8 x 2 (fj, u for both), 8? x 2 (fj, u for both), 8 x 1.5 (fj, u for both, timer went off)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2 + 5 up
5 Oct
Mileage
7 moderate routes (RCTM calls for these being outdoor classics, but for now I'm just doing indoors)
10b,10c,10c,10c(f near top), 10d(f middle), 10d(f near top), 10b(f near top)
6 Oct
Mileage
5 moderate routes
10?, 10c, 10 (maybe a b), 10c, 10c (no falls, but they were on auto-belay. My partner is away)
(Actually, for the last I tried to mix together an 11a and 11c, hoping it was going to be a 10c/d, but I fell pretty early and didn't count it)
############# Optional Aerobic Exercises ################
RCTM reccommends doing optional aerobic exercises on rest days, especially during this endurance phase. My lovely girlfriend supplied me with two swim workouts
Swim Workout 1:
w/u 200m easy
6 x 50 freestyle (fs) kick, 10s rest between rounds
6 x 50 fs, 20s rest
3 x 100 fs, 30s rest
c/d 4 x 50 fs, 30s rest
Swim Workout 2:
w/u 200 easy
3 x 50 fs kick, 10s rest
10 x 50 fs, 25s rest
- on 1,3,5,7,9 breath every 3 strokes
- on 2.4.6.8,10 breath every 5 strokes
3 x 100 fs, 30s rest
c/d 4 x 50 fs, 30s rest
8 Oct
Aerobic activity:
Swim workout 1 + 20 mins biking back to home
9 Oct
Arcing #3 -- 2 x 30min (25 mins rest)
Round1:
7? x 2 (fo on 2nd), 8 x 2, 10a, 8? x 2, 9, 9+
------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9
Round2:
9 x 2 (1st round fo, u), 7 x 2 (on 1st round, fo), 10b, 8 x 2, 8+ x 2, 8? x 2
-------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10, + 1 up
11 Oct
Arcing #4 -- 2 x 30 min (30 mins rest)
Round1:
9?,8? x2, 8 x2, 8 x 2 8 x 2, 8 x 2
------------------------------------------------------------------------10 + 2 up
Round2:
9x2 , 10a, 7 x2, 10c (fell twice near bottom), 9+ x 2, 8 x 2,8 (clock ran out)
------------------------------------------------------------------------9 + 1 up
Hangboard Routine (Beginner)
w/u - 20 mins, carrying and holding the board, general movement, pullups, etc.
each set is 6 reps of 10s on 5s off, 3 min rest between sets. one of each grip:
1 warm-up ug
2 IMR 3 finger pocket
3 medium edge (semi-closed)
4 medium pinch
5 MR 2 finger pocket
6 Large open-hand edge
7 Wide pinch
8 Sloper
9 MRP 3 finger pocket
(example entry - 5 ---------- 2S 8 5 3 (-20) means two successful rounds, followed by some rounds where I held on for 8 seconds, 5 seconds, 3 seconds with 20 lbs taken off my BW)
12 Oct
HB #1 (For this first routine, I don't have a means of measuring the weight I'm taking off, I took off weight by pressing one foot on a stool in front of me either light, medium, or heavy pressure)
1 ------------------ 6S
2 ----------------- 2S 7 5 4 4
3 ----------------- 1S 7 6 5 5 5
4 ----------------- 1S 9 7 7 7 4 (L-M)
5 ----------------- 2S 6 4 4 4 (M)
6 ----------------- 2S 3 4 3 4
7 ----------------- 1S 9 5 5 4 3 (M)
8 ----------------- 2S 5 6 4 5
9 ----------------- 2S 5 4 5 4 (M)
+
Supplementary exercises ( 4 sets, 8 reps, 3 min rest between ---> 4 x 8 (3m) )
-Dips
-Hanging leg lifts (back supported, only did 2 sets because time crunch)
-Shoulder press (35lb x4, 30lb x5, 25lb x5, 25lb x5 )------------> try 25 lbs each next time
13 Oct
Swim workout 2
completed in ~ 45 minutes
...I think my Girlfriend is trying to kill me
15 Oct
HB #2 (Now I have a pulley and counter weight to make this more exact. Time to establish baseline weights. taped MP fingers on RH)
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 5S 9 (-10) <--------------------- b="">baseline established
3 ----------------- 2S 9 3 5 4 (-20) -------:: -25 next time
4 ----------------- 5 3 1 1 1 (-30) ---------:: add gallon of water (~8.5 lbs)
5 ----------------- 1S 5 3 2 3 1 (-20) -----:: -30 next time
6 ----------------- 3S 8 8 8 (-5) <--------------------- again="" b="" try=""> nearly baseline
7 ----------------- 7 3 5 5 5 5 (-30) ------:: add gallon of water (~8.5 lbs)
8 ----------------- 4S 7 7 (-7.5) -----------:: -10 next time
9 ----------------- 2S 7 5 5 5 (-25) -------:: -30 next time
+
SE ( 4x8(3m) )
- Inverted 1-arm rows on rings
- Raised leg pushups
- Flutter kicks (120. i.e. count 1 every 4 flutter kicks)
16 Oct
Optional aerobic exercise
Swim set 1 + lots of biking
18 Oct HB 3
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-10) <--------------------- b="">baseline
3 ----------------- 2S 8 7 7 6 (-25) ---------:: -30 next time
4 ----------------- 5 6 3 1 1 1 (-30+jug) ---:: (ADD MORE SOMEHOW)
5 ----------------- 2S 2 1 5 4 (-30) ---------:: (add jug next time)
6 ----------------- 3S 6 8 4 (-7.5) ----------:: (-10) next time
7 ----------------- 4S 5 5 (-30 + jug) ------:: nearly baseline try again
8 ----------------- 2S 7 6 4 4 (-10) ---------:: -15 next time
9 ----------------- 3S 6 6 6 (-30) -----------:: (add jug next time)
+
SE
(for time's sake, I'm doing 1 super set, all exercises then resting 4 mins)
attempted workout:
4 x 8 bicep curls (30 lbs), 4 x 8 L-sit dips, 4 x 6 leg lifts
rnd 1 --- success
rnd 2 --- success
rnd 3 --- 7 curls
rnd 4 --- 6 right, 5 left, 6 dips
(go light on curls next time, 25lbs)
20 Oct
UCSB inhouse Bouldering Comp -- Did 4 successful climbs ( 6 routes attempted) maybe v3-v4.
~ 1 hour. Keeping it light for hangboarding tomorrow
21 Oct
HB #4
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 2S 6 4 5 3 (-10) ----------:: <--------------------- b="">baseline ( :[ big deterioration)
3 ----------------- 2S 9 7 4 4 (-30) -----------:: add jug next time
4 ----------------- 7 5 3 3 3 2 (-30+jug) -----:: some improvement :]
5 ----------------- 1S 9 4 5 5 5 (-30+jug) ---::
6 ----------------- 2S 9 5 4 6 (-10) -----------:: worse ;[
7 ----------------- 4S 5 4 (-30 + jug) --------:: nearly baseline try again
8 ----------------- 2S 9 5 4 4 (-15) -----------:: worse ;[
9 ----------------- 4S 5 6 (-30+jug) ----------:: better (but easier weights)
NOTES: it was hot/humid (80F). The bouldering comp. probably affected my strength as well
+
SE
as 1 superset:
weighted pullups (+15lb) 8-8-7-6
raised leg slow,strict pushups 4 x 8
front-to-lateral-then-back raises (10lb) 8-6-5-6 (too much rest though)
24 Oct
HB #5
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 4S 9 7 (-10) -----------------:: try -12.5 next time
3 ----------------- 6S (-30 + jug) --------:: ...I think I've been doing these wrong in the past (too crimpy)
4 ----------------- 1S 6 4 3 2 2 (-30+jug) -----:: Some improvement (but easier weight)
5 ----------------- 3S 9 5 6 (-30+jug) ---------:: Better! :]
6 ----------------- 3S 9 6 5 (-10) ---------------:: (try -15 next time)
7 ----------------- 3S 8 5 2(-30 + jug) ---------:: worse ;[
8 ----------------- 2S 8 5 7 5 (-15) -------------:: worse ;[ (try -20 next time)
9 ----------------- 3S 7 7 6 (-30+jug) --------- :: worse ;[
NOTES: it was a cooler/less humid day. Workout performed later in the evening
+
SE
as 1 superset 4 x 8 reps, 4 minute rest
- one arm rows on rings
- one arm shoulder presses (25lb)
-1 minute plank
25 Oct
Optional aerobic exercise
Swim workout #2
POWER PHASE BEGINS
28 Oct - campus workout
20 min ARC warmup
30 min boulder ladders (4 V0, 3 V1, 2V2 2V3, 1V4)
15 min hard bouldering (working a V5)
Campus rungs
Attempted:
4 sets on large rungs of:
-B1,L2,R3,L3,R3
-B1,R2,L2,R3,L3
4 sets on large rungs of:
-B1,L2,R3,L4,R5
-B1,R2,L3,R4,L5
(The reality... not even close... lots of work to do, but unfortunately I won't have access to a campus
ladder hardly ever this year, so... someday)
+
SE
3 supersets of:
-8 total Lock-offs(4ea)
-8 slow pushups on a TRX
-8 leg lifts
(~4 min rest)
30 Oct (limit bouldering)*
30 min ARC w/u (good pace and flow :] )
30 min boulder ladders (couldn't manage a certain V3)
30 min hard bouldering (projected 3 V4's in the rec cen. Topped 1)
+
SE (attempt 3 sets of 3-5 reps)
Shoulder press (35x5,40x4, 45x2)
Bicep curl (40x4, 40x4, 40x4)
Weighted dips (50x5,60x4, 60x3)
* due to being an absolute beginner at training, I'm forgoing the limit bouldering. There's no harm in easing into the routine, but there's much to he lost going too hard, too fast. Until otherwise specified, limit bouldering won't actually include limit bouldering.