2 Nov
Campusing
ARC 15 min
WBL 20 min (worked in the climbing team wall, up to low b20's)
Hard Bouldering 10 min (worked two, b28,b29, got one of them)
Moonboarding (my sub for hangboarding) ~30min
+
SE
core stuff (3 sets 20 slow, low, leg lifts + 30 back extensions)
3 supersets of:
- one arm rows on bar (25lb) -5,3,4
- shoulder raises (out to in) (20lb) -3,3,3
4 Nov
Limit Bouldering in MAC
ARC 30 min
WBL 30 min (worked up to about V3)
Hard bouldering 30 min (worked on: V3+,V3+,V4... came close on one of the V3+s)
+
SE
HSPU - 2,1,5,3 (first two on raised dumbells, the rest on floor)
dumbell rows (standing vertically pulling up) 5 reps, 50-75-75
some core stuff and antagonists: 10 reps with 10 lbs outward rotation,attempted some...front levers, one leg out
6 Nov
Limit Bouldering in MAC
ARC 30min
WBL 30min
Hard bouldering 30 min
Notes: topped out a V3 first time that was shutting me down last workout. Also latched the 2nd to last hold on a V2 that was also shutting me down. A former V3 I fell on a few times end of October was quite easy this time around. Al this despite tired forearms. Feeling pretty good about all this training
:D
+
SE
-IYT's (i.e. front, middle and lateral raises) 3x2 20lb
-weighted pullups 40-50-50 (5 reps each)
-Turkish getups 3x3 ea arm (60 lbs)
-core (15 mins with anna. 1 minute of each exercise that changes. A variety including: bicycles, V ups, candlesticks, windshield wipers, planks and side planks, boxer situps, flutter kicks with a break on the 5th and 10th minute.)
aha moment:
I hate ab stuff because it's painful and enduring. However, today I found out that this type of training to destroy your abs and get you winded isn't the best for climbing. It's better to do shorter but intense exercises (less that 10 reps)
-Leg raises (hanging and sitting lifting your legs from the floor)
-"Hard planks" (pulse and exhale with max effort 10 times)
-front levers
-ab wheel
-one knee raise to max mobility
(more ideas to come soon)
-pike tucks on rings or TRX (feet on trx, start in pushup position, drive hip up while piking in)
9 Nov
"Campusing"
ARC 20 min in the MAC
boulder ladders on the climbing team wall 30 min *
hard bouldering 10 min
Moon board ~40 min**
*Improvements! one of the climbs I never succeeded on during the last time (2 Nov) and this time I got it first go!
**The first main problem we worked on (2 Nov) and didnt' succeed then, but I got it first go today!
+
SE
weighted dips (4x3 60 lbs)
3 sets of 3 1-arm negatives
POWER ENDURANCE PHASE
consists of redpoint attempts, route intervals, and Linked Boulder Circuits (LBC)
LBC is choosing 3-4 boulder pr0blems, climbing up one, down something easier, up the next... etc testing on jugs if necessary between each. A duty cycle (work to rest ratio) is chosen (4:2 for example implies a circuit lasts ~ 4 minutes long then resting for half that time, ~2 mins)
13 Nov
Linked Boulder Circuits (LBC)
15 min ARC traverse warmup
15 min ladders
20 min hard bouldering
LBC, DC 2:4
Did a V4, V3 and V2 *
Did 5 rounds accidentally, intended for
only 4. Did the first 2 rounds successfully.
On 3rd round, fell on the V3, cheated past
And finished it off. On the 4th round, fell
On the 3 (cheated past) and the 2 (ended)
Same with the 5th round.
* Notes: solid improvement! The 3 and 4 were actually once apart of my hard bouldering the first week, so they've been promoted! Will try this same one next week for 4 rounds to compare for improvement.
16 Nov
Redpoint attempts
1 hour warmup (10 mins ARCing, the rest working up moderates 10a-10c)
attempted 2 problems. 11a's (3 tries on one, 2 on the other) Can get by with just one fall each
17 Nov
Redpoint attempts
hour long warmup (+20 min bike ride to the gym)
Tried the two problems from last night. I'm one move from the top on one (3 times in a row!). Then I got the other one first go. Bad technique though. It can be improved for sure
Felt some elbow pain, the 2 days in a row don't help. Followed up with stretching and outer hammer twists (2.5 lb weight at end of DB). Rubber bands as well
20 Nov LBC
15 min ARC w/u (autobelays)
15 min WBL*
20 min hard bouldering
LBC
same set as last time with 2:4 DC
Did 4 sets. I did the first 3 completely, but
Unlike last time, I didn't get the V4 on the
Last attempt. Still improvement I'd say.
10 min ARC c/d
*did that hard purple V2 I kept falling on :]
Notes: slight remnant of tendonitis. Did some pushups, hammer twists, and rubber band extensions
23 Nov
Climbing at SenderOne
Supersets, with little rest between
10b, 11b, 10d,10d (very soft 11b though)
10b,11c*,10d**
11a,11b***8
*one clip from top
**one hang, pumped
***fell from top, could not clip anchors, but I made some good progress. Thought I was gonna fall 2 clips from the top, but I managed to push to the top
+
SE
4x10 seated leg raises
3 sets shoulder press
40lb, reps: 4,3,4
One arm slow lowers and assisted one arm pullups (Mikayla pushed up)
NOTES: overt improvement from my last time at sender, definitely improving. No elbow pain :)
27 Nov -- Route Intervals
20 min ARC w/u
15 min boulderladders
4 rounds on a 10d (DC 2:4)
Each round was about 1.5 total laps up
the wall. The very first lap I made it all the
way to the top, the others I made it to but
not necessarily past the crux. The 2nd half
I would usually fail just before the crux.
It may be a little too hard?
Cooldown on 2 moderates
30 Nov -- Red point attempts
20 mins ARC
20 mins working up moderates (10b, 10c)
Redpoint attempts on two 11bs
(one, has a dyno in it, couldn't complete all the moves, other: Can do it with 1-2 hangs, just have to link it all. Nice and dynamic)
+
antagonits, pushups, rubber band extensions, outward rotations
Note: Feeling strong, 2nd route especially is quite dynamic on not the greatest holds. Interesting side note: despite feeling stronger, I failed on 2 10c's during the warmup. I should incorporate them more until they are dialed.