2 Jan -- outdoor climbing
Went to New Jack City.
Successful climbs just 9 and 10a.
Fell on 11b, 11a, 10d and slipped the beginning of 11d (rainbow drive). Not super successful, very cold
Notes: improvement on rainbow drive from before (only top roped in past). And the 11b ("this nazi shit wont do") wasnt taxing, I just didn't have gloves for jamming the crack, so tearing the back of the hands from the first fall really put a damper on the attempt.
Begin 10-week Training Season 2!
BASE FITNESS PHASE
7 Jan
2 x 20in ARCing
(1st set, focused on downclimbing and jibs/features, 2nd: downclimbing and "stutter step" [2-3 foot movements for each hand movement])
9 jan
2 x 25 ARCing
(Downclimbing and heelhook/high step rockover practice. For the latter, I rainbowed. It was a nice change, seemingly new routes and forced opportunities for technique)
11 jan
7 Moderates
10a,10b,10c,10d*,10c,10d,11a
*1 fall
14 jan -- ARCing
2x30
Up and down climbing. Rainbowed to force techniques (heel hooks and a little laybacking)
15 jan -- tumbling and conditioning
forced to do one of those long, deadly ab burning exercises (ugh). Along with generic tumbling. All of these days consist of 10 leg lifts, 10 dips, 10 pushups, a legless rope climb and some attempts at one-arm pullups.
16 jan -- ARCing
2x30
Up and down climbing. Ranbowed to force techniques (high step, rockovers), straight arms
Notes: So sore (only feel while climbing)
18 Jan -- Moderates
8 moderates
10a*,10b,10b*,10c,10c,10d+,10d,10d**
*silly fall/slip
**legit fall, being tired (I successfully climbed this one last time though, wierd)
19 Jan -- Moderates
6 moderates
10b,10c, 10c, 10d+, 10d*, 10d*, dihedral stem
*fall on ith about half way. The stemming was to counter my failures/cool down
+
Partner workout with Mikayla:
-20 then 18 junking Jack's
(while she does 10 then 9 squats)
-jog (length of soccer field)
-16,14 (8,7)
-jog
... etc
(Full sprint on last go)
Then switch roles
Then same thing but with 20,18 pushups (20,18 jumping split squats)
+
Some ab stuff
STRENGTH PHASE
20 Jan HB #1
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-12.5) ---------------:: better :]
3 ----------------- 6S (-30 + jug) --------:: :]
4 ----------------- 4 3 3 2 2 2 (-30+jug) ---:: worse
5 ----------------- 5S 9 (-30+jug) ---------:: Better :]
6 ----------------- 5S 8 (-15) ---------------:: better :]
7 ----------------- 1S 8 5 5 4 3(-30 + jug) --:: worse
8 ----------------- 5S 8 (-20) -----------:: better
9 ----------------- 5S 9 (-30+jug) --------- :: better!
+
Supplementary strength
3 supersets
- 8 slow weighted pullups (+15)
- 6 front to side then back raises (7.5)
- 10 seated leg raises
4 min break
Notes: Wow! So much improvement!!!! (Except that pichai strength, haha, shitty) This training program is the bomb!
(Managed to borrow 2 8lb dumbells, so now I don't have to use the water jug for extra weight)
23 Jan -- HB#2
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-12.5) ---------------::
3 ----------------- 6S (-38) --------::
4 ----------------- 5 5 5 3 2 2 (-46) -----:: mild improvement
5 ----------------- 6S (-38)---------:: perfect :]
6 ----------------- 5S 9 (-15) ----:: slightly better :]
7 ----------------- 3S 9 5 5 (-46)--:: better
8 ----------------- 4S 7 7 (-20) ----:: slightly worse
9 ----------------- ???? (-38) --------- :: oops! Forgot to record. I don't remember what happened :o
Notes: nice to have actual weights. Need more for the pinches
26 Jan --HB#3
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-10) ---------------:: Added weight, still successful, just barely
3 ----------------- 6S (-38) --------::
4 ----------------- 2S 4 5 4 3 (-46 + jug) -----:: Need more counterweight!
5 ----------------- 6S (-38)---------::
6 ----------------- 5S 8 (-15) ----:: slightly worse
7 ----------------- 4S 7 3 (-46)--:: better
8 ----------------- 3S 2 5 3 (-20) ----:: worse
9 ----------------- 4S 7 6 (-38) --------- ::
Notes: Went to climbing comp afterwards, did 3 problems relatively quickly
3 sets of:
-Lockoffs (on moon board-- hard! 3 ea)
-10 leg lifts
29 Jan --HB#4
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-10) ---------------:: again, just barely
3 ----------------- 6S (-35.5) --------:: Added weight, just barely made it
4 ----------------- 2S 6 3 2 2 (-46 + jug) -----:: slight improvement
5 ----------------- 6S (-38)---------::
6 ----------------- 4S 9 5 (-15) ----:: slightly worse
7 ----------------- 4S 5 3 (-46)--:: slightly worse
8 ----------------- 3S 8 5 5 (-20) ----:: slightly better
9 ----------------- 5S 5 (-38) --------- :: better
Notes: been adding 2.5 lbs to one hang at a time in order to spur progression. Good choices, a lot of hangs I feel like are right at my limit
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