-20 min w/u including ARCing and moderate climbs up to 10d
redpoint attempts:
11a (pink) - 2 burns
11b (purple) - 2 burns
unknown (pink)- feels like 11b, 2 burns,
NOTES: No sends, but decent performance. The pink 11a had tricky sequence but wasn't particularly taxing. purple 11b I managed most of the way the first time through (fell more on the 2nd attempt) but fell at the end. Pink unknown I couldn't get past the bottom on the first go, once I tried it later, I slipped a lot in different spots. It's not a "realistic/outdoor" problem, so I'm not too concerned
2 Mar -- Redpoint attempts
-20 min w/u with ARCing and some moderates (onsighted a 10d+)
redpoint attempts:
11a (pink) - got it first go today
11b (purple) - fell same spot near the top. couldn't complete it though even after the hang
11b (tan) - Got most of the way, fell near the end, missed a critical foothold, will try next time
11c (black) - Got most of the way, fell near the end again from missing an obvious handhold, however, it was still tough higher up
11c (yellow) - Tried this last training cycle. I linked the first half today nicely, then hangdogged the rest. Progress for sure compared to last cycle
5 Mar -- route intervals
-1 hour gymnastics warmup
-15 min boulder ladders
-route intervals:
6 rounds laps on a 10a (duty cycle 2:4)
Reps: 3, 3, 3, 2.5, 2, 2, 1.5
(Approximately)
PERFORMANCE PHASE
8 Mar -- Redpoint attempts (autobelay)
(warmup unknown, perhaps some ARCing then moderates for warmups)
11b (Green) - No Go, 2 or 3 attempts, falling somewhere in the middle
11d (black) - No Go, 2 or 3 attempts, falling at this slippery hold or slightly above
9 Mar -- Climbing Comp
only got two climbs, a B33 and B26. Close to B32 and B30 (one move away for both)
Not my best competition unfortunately
12 Mar -- Redpoint attempts (auto belay only)
Very little warmup (no noticeable affects in performance, but not good to make a habit)
Did the tan 11b without a hitch
Attempted Black 11d and green 11c twice apiece. Made more progress for both
15 Mar -- Redpoint attempts (auto belay)
w/u 15 min ARC, up and down climb moderates (10a,10b)
Redpoint attempts:
No successes, but tried green 11b and black 11d alternating,3 times apiece
16 Mar -- Redpoint attempts
w/u 15 min ARC, moderate 10c
Redpoint attempts:
yellow 11c x2 (no send, good work though)
red 11 (unkown grade)
green 11d x2 (no send, VERY good though. 2 falls each time nearish the top)
5 Mar -- route intervals
-1 hour gymnastics warmup
-15 min boulder ladders
-route intervals:
6 rounds laps on a 10a (duty cycle 2:4)
Reps: 3, 3, 3, 2.5, 2, 2, 1.5
(Approximately)
PERFORMANCE PHASE
8 Mar -- Redpoint attempts (autobelay)
(warmup unknown, perhaps some ARCing then moderates for warmups)
11b (Green) - No Go, 2 or 3 attempts, falling somewhere in the middle
11d (black) - No Go, 2 or 3 attempts, falling at this slippery hold or slightly above
9 Mar -- Climbing Comp
only got two climbs, a B33 and B26. Close to B32 and B30 (one move away for both)
Not my best competition unfortunately
12 Mar -- Redpoint attempts (auto belay only)
Very little warmup (no noticeable affects in performance, but not good to make a habit)
Did the tan 11b without a hitch
Attempted Black 11d and green 11c twice apiece. Made more progress for both
15 Mar -- Redpoint attempts (auto belay)
w/u 15 min ARC, up and down climb moderates (10a,10b)
Redpoint attempts:
No successes, but tried green 11b and black 11d alternating,3 times apiece
16 Mar -- Redpoint attempts
w/u 15 min ARC, moderate 10c
Redpoint attempts:
yellow 11c x2 (no send, good work though)
red 11 (unkown grade)
green 11d x2 (no send, VERY good though. 2 falls each time nearish the top)
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