3 Dec - Linked Boulder Circuits
ARC 15 min w/u
WBL - 15 min, V0 - V2 x 2, V3 x3 V4 x2
hard bouldering - 20 min (finished this pink V5 I've been working on :] )
LBC - Duty cycle 2:4
(first 4 rounds, I got down to, but failed to grab the final V4, 5th rnd, not even close to grabbing the starter V4, 6th round - couldn't get up the V3)
6 Dec - Red point attempts
ARC 15 min w/u
block of 4 - 10a, 10d, 10d, 10b
Tried 2 climbs - white 11d ( 8 bolts + chains), yellow 11d (11 bolts + chains)
white 11d - 1 attempt. Clipped bolt 6 then hung, clipped another, hung, lowered
yellow 11d - 1 attempt. Clipped bolt 5, then hung, then clipped 5 bolts, hung, lowered
+
2 moderates - 10d hung after 5 bolts, lowered. 10b chains
7 Dec - Red point attempts
ARC - 10 min w/u
block of 4 - 10c, 10d, 10c, 10b
Tried same two climbs
Successfully got the yellow 11d first go of the day (2nd go overall)
Tried the white 11d again, got only 4 bolts in
+
2 moderates - 10b, 10c
11 Dec - LBC
-ARC w/u
-WBL - 15 min
-Hard bouldering -20 min
(tried yellow volume V5 and blue V7)
New circuit(due to construction). DC - 2:3
V3, V1, V3, V2, V3 (last V3 like 2nd)
1 - fell on last V3
2 -fell on last V3 going for top
3 - fell on last V3
4 - fell on 2nd V3 going for top (1:3)
5 - fell 2nd V3 going for top
+
12 min ARC cooldown ( extra pumped)
13 Dec - red point attempts
-ARC w/u - 15 mins
-Block of 4 - 10a, 10b, 10d, 10d
-Redpoint attempts:
-White 11d - 1 attempt , go to 7th draw, hung, got 2 more draws, hung, to chain
- green techy 11b (not enough rest before last attempt, so I figured this was decent)
+
12a dihedral cool down (TR, onsight)
15 Dec - red point attempts
-Block of 5 - 10a through 10b (semi-speed climbing)
-Redpoint attempts:
-white 11d, x3 each time made it to the 5th clip. (on 2nd go, I hung and tried the upper portion). I did it pretty efficiently on the 3rd go, but I was gassed
+
2 cooldown moderates; thin green 11b, fall at 2nd to last draw, 10b on speed wall (i.e. slight overhang)
NOTES: Mikayla and I broke up later this evening :[ It didn't affect the session, but it might affect ones that follow. It was 3 years that had its ups and downs. Still, I'm only dwelling on the positives which makes it so fucking hard.
18 Dec - LBC
-ARC w/u - 15 min
-WBL - 15 min (2 each V0 - V4)
- hard bouldering - 20 min (Did yellow V5 volumes, got it 2nd go, tried the pink project, got it in one go)
- Linked Boulder Circuit. Did the same "new" one as last time DC 1:1
1 - complete ~1:45
2 - complete ~1:40
3 - complete ~ 1:45
4 - fell going for last hold~ 1:30
5 - fell at top of 2nd V3 ~ 1:00
6 - fell in middle of 2nd V3 ~ 1:00
NOTES: No cooldown, I rushed out to meetup with CC to talk about Mikayla.
21 Dec - Red point attempts
- Arc w/u 15 min
- block of 4 (10b,10d, 11a, 10c)
- 2 attempts on my 11d (1st go was great, I got all the draws except the anchors. 2nd go was only slightly better then my previous days, I clipped the 6th bolt but was able to move past it
- 2 moderates for cooldown (11a, 10c)
22 Dec - Outdoor climbing (Joshua Tree)
With serge
- 2 multipitches (4p and 3p, 5.6 and 5.8, both very slabby)
- lead OS a 5.9 (Rites of Spring) in isles in the sky
- pinkpoint Bird of Fire 10a (no falls, but I TR solo'd this in April so not technically onsight)
24 Dec - Route intervals
- block of 4 (10a, 10d, 10b, 10d)
- Route Intervals - 11b (plan: lead the first, get lowered quickly and TR the rest)
3 sets, DC 4:4
1. one lead, one full TR, then TR half up before timer went off
2. one lead, one fall on TR half way, another poor attempt on TR before falling and stopping
3. failed lead, ended early
+
rattly fingers crack to practice skills (fall near top, and lots of gastoning or lieback
- 2 moderates for cooldown (11b, 11a)
26 Dec - Just regular climbing
Climbed with a girl, Reina (cute). So the plan was just moderates
- 10d - her first time lead belaying, so Iwent to the 4th clip then fell on purpose
- 10b
- 10d, 11a
- 11c
- 11c (fall)
29 Dec - More regular climbing
Climbed with Reina and her friends
- Crack w/u
- 11b - lead, black arete
- 11c - TR
- 11b - TR
- 11c - lead, black roof
- 11d TR
- hand crack
- 11b - TR dihedral
- 11d - TR thin yellow