Some catch up. I moved to Joshua Tree in November and have been climbing a lot. I have almost as many routes this year as lasat year (during my trip). After I dropped off from the "extended hangboard session" in April. Morgan and I continued to do outdoor climbs in Apple Valley every 2-3 weeks. I got a baby soft 11c after a few tries there. More recently multiple 11s
Here's my sport pyramid:
2 Dec - Hangboard # 1
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-25)
3 ----------------- 6S (-37.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-57.5)
5 ----------------- 6S (-42.5) -- close to failure
6 ----------------- 6S (-32.5)
7 ----------------- 6S (-52.5) -- closeto failure
8 ----------------- 5S-8 (-30)
9 ----------------- 2S-9-5-6-7 (-37.5)
5 Dec - Hangboard # 2
jtree: TR soloing (10C slab) and a V0 boulder slab + easy crack solo
+
jtree: TR soloing (10C slab) and a V0 boulder slab + easy crack solo
+
6hr break
+
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-22.5) -- hard, don't progress
3 ----------------- 6S (-35) -- hard
4 ----------------- 5S-5 (-55)
5 ----------------- 5S-4 (-40)
6 ----------------- 4S-8-5 (-30)
7 ----------------- 3S-9-6-6 (-50)
8 ----------------- 3S-7-7-5 (-30)
9 ----------------- 3S-4-6-5 (-37.5)
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-22.5) -- hard, don't progress
3 ----------------- 6S (-35) -- hard
4 ----------------- 5S-5 (-55)
5 ----------------- 5S-4 (-40)
6 ----------------- 4S-8-5 (-30)
7 ----------------- 3S-9-6-6 (-50)
8 ----------------- 3S-7-7-5 (-30)
9 ----------------- 3S-4-6-5 (-37.5)
+
supplemental exercises
3 sets
-15 second L-sit ----- not great technique
-5 HSPU -------------- 5-5-4
-5+5 pistol squats ------- 10 lb weight
NEXT TIME: up the pistol weight to 20, keep everything else the same - get better technique
NOTES: poor performance on hangboard, maybe it was the light climbing outside. I will try this set again next time
8 Dec - Hangboard # 3
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-22.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-35)
4 ----------------- 6S (-55)
5 ----------------- 6S (-40) -- hard, don't progress
6 ----------------- 6S (-30)
7 ----------------- 5S-8 (-50)
8 ----------------- 5S-6 (-30)
9 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-37.5)
2 ----------------- 6S (-22.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-35)
4 ----------------- 6S (-55)
5 ----------------- 6S (-40) -- hard, don't progress
6 ----------------- 6S (-30)
7 ----------------- 5S-8 (-50)
8 ----------------- 5S-6 (-30)
9 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-37.5)
+
supplemental exercises
3 sets
-15 second L-sit ----- not great technique
-5 HSPU -------------- 5-5-5
-5+5 pistol squats ------- 20 lb weight
NEXT TIME: up the pistol weight to 25, keep everything else the same - get better technique
NOTES: Much better with hangboard today!
11 Dec - Hangboard # 4
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-20)
3 ----------------- 6S (-32.5) -- keep
4 ----------------- 6S (-52.5)
5 ----------------- 6S (-40) -- hard, don't progress
6 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
7 ----------------- 5S-6 (-50)
8 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-30)
9 ----------------- 4S-7-6 (-37.5)
2 ----------------- 6S (-20)
3 ----------------- 6S (-32.5) -- keep
4 ----------------- 6S (-52.5)
5 ----------------- 6S (-40) -- hard, don't progress
6 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
7 ----------------- 5S-6 (-50)
8 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-30)
9 ----------------- 4S-7-6 (-37.5)
+
supplemental exercises
3 sets
-15 second L-sit ----- Better technique
-5 HSPU -------------- 5-5-5
-5+5 pistol squats ------- 25 lb weight
NOTES: Hangboard ok. L-sit technique slightly better. HSPU felt easy
23 Dec - Hangboard # 5
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-20)
3 ----------------- 6S (-32.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-52.5) -- hard
5 ----------------- 6S (-40)
6 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
7 ----------------- 5S-8 (-50)
8 ----------------- 3S-8-5-6 (-30)
9 ----------------- 5S-7 (-37.5)
2 ----------------- 6S (-20)
3 ----------------- 6S (-32.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-52.5) -- hard
5 ----------------- 6S (-40)
6 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
7 ----------------- 5S-8 (-50)
8 ----------------- 3S-8-5-6 (-30)
9 ----------------- 5S-7 (-37.5)
+
supplemental exercises
3 sets
-15 second L-sit ----- Better technique
-5 HSPU -------------- 5-5-5
-5+5 pistol squats ------- 25 lb weight
27 Dec - Bouldering
While I've been bouldering/climbing outside more than suggested (one only needs to look at my Mountain Project), Today and yesterday I've been trying hard stuff. Yesterday I got a baby soft V3, probbaly not going to happen again in a while. Today I did two V1s (much more consistent with J-tree grading). I'd like ot build a nice pyramids getting some V1s and V2s. It's sickening that I have a hundred V0s ~ 20 V1s and 2 V2s and 2 V3s. I would like these V1s and 2s to be overhanding, with edges or pinches or something rather than just a technical slab. Today the two V1s definitely were of that nature. They were on the Pixie Boulder in Indian Cove campground. Ended early though because climbing the past 3 days I feel it in my elbows. Gonna need to do more therapy:
-3 x 5 slow eccentric lowers (50lb)
- 3 x 30 finger expansions (slow
While I've been bouldering/climbing outside more than suggested (one only needs to look at my Mountain Project), Today and yesterday I've been trying hard stuff. Yesterday I got a baby soft V3, probbaly not going to happen again in a while. Today I did two V1s (much more consistent with J-tree grading). I'd like ot build a nice pyramids getting some V1s and V2s. It's sickening that I have a hundred V0s ~ 20 V1s and 2 V2s and 2 V3s. I would like these V1s and 2s to be overhanding, with edges or pinches or something rather than just a technical slab. Today the two V1s definitely were of that nature. They were on the Pixie Boulder in Indian Cove campground. Ended early though because climbing the past 3 days I feel it in my elbows. Gonna need to do more therapy:
-3 x 5 slow eccentric lowers (50lb)
- 3 x 30 finger expansions (slow