Going to add a tendon protocol as per here
TENDON PROTOCOL
2x per day with at least 6 hours apart:
10 "no hangs" (feet on floor, try to load with 80% capacity). 10s on 50s off, progressively load
- 3 sets of medium edge half crimp (using top row of RPTC outermost size)
- 3 sets of IMR open position
- MR open
- IM open
- MR crimp + short pinky stretch
- IM crimp + short pinky stretch
I'm going to do this 30 - 60 mins after my meals because there's a higher concentration of proteins circulating (glycine and proline). I will do this on non climbing days and non hangboard days, (i.e. usually not on weekends and Wednesdays)
2 Mar - Tendon Protocol
3 Mar -- Hangboard #12
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-12.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-22.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-42.5)
5 ----------------- 5S-9 (-30)
6 ----------------- 5S-9 (-15)
7 ----------------- 4S-6-5 (-40)
8 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-22.5)
9 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-30)
2 ----------------- 6S (-12.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-22.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-42.5)
5 ----------------- 5S-9 (-30)
6 ----------------- 5S-9 (-15)
7 ----------------- 4S-6-5 (-40)
8 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-22.5)
9 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-30)
+
supplemental exercises
3 sets
-5+5 eccentric dumbell lowers (45lbs)
-5 ring dips
-5 ring dips
-5 KTE
NOTES: Not as good, despite cooler temps. Part of me wonders if the low weekend stimulus affected this. IN theory strength should not diminish over a week ~52
NOTES: Not as good, despite cooler temps. Part of me wonders if the low weekend stimulus affected this. IN theory strength should not diminish over a week ~52
4 Mar and 5 Mar - tendon protocol, but just once each day and NOT after meal times as planned
6 Mar - Climbing gym. Not much a plan, tried power because it's soft "rock" indoors
7 Mar - Climbing outside - power endurance day
slow day, tried a V2 on asteroid boulder, was able once to bump my feet up and hold the starting position. Same with a V2 on the arete boulder (in echo cove). Did a V1 successfully and a few "solos" (5.2 x 2, 5.8, 5.9 -- these laste were rally boulders with easy topout sections)
+
power endurance with the rambler (V0 traverse nearby gunsmoke)
3x5 with 1:2 work:rest (got faster each time)
2:00 ,1:30 ,1:30, 1:20, 1:00
+
power endurance with the rambler (V0 traverse nearby gunsmoke)
3x5 with 1:2 work:rest (got faster each time)
2:00 ,1:30 ,1:30, 1:20, 1:00
8 Mar -- tendon protocol
9 Mar -- tendon protocol -- just the morning one
10 Mar -- Hangboard #13
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-10)
3 ----------------- 6S (-20)
4 ----------------- 5S-5 (-40)
5 ----------------- 3S-7-7-3 (-22.5) -- whoops, misread - should have been 2 7.5
6 ----------------- 6S (-12.5)
7 ----------------- 4S-9-5 (-37.5)
8 ----------------- 5S-7 (-20)
9 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
2 ----------------- 6S (-10)
3 ----------------- 6S (-20)
4 ----------------- 5S-5 (-40)
5 ----------------- 3S-7-7-3 (-22.5) -- whoops, misread - should have been 2 7.5
6 ----------------- 6S (-12.5)
7 ----------------- 4S-9-5 (-37.5)
8 ----------------- 5S-7 (-20)
9 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
+
supplemental exercises
3 sets
-5+5 eccentric dumbell lowers (45lbs) -- can add 2.5 (did 6 accidentally for the 2nd round)
-5 KTE
-5 ring dips (10lbs) -- little rough on the sternum
NOTES: Quite a good session! Made a grave error with my middle-ring dropping 7.5lbs instead of 2.5. Risky for sure, but I "survived". Going to take it back to where it "should" be ~48
NOTES: Quite a good session! Made a grave error with my middle-ring dropping 7.5lbs instead of 2.5. Risky for sure, but I "survived". Going to take it back to where it "should" be ~48
11 + 12 Mar - Tendon protocol (one of these was both days, the other was just once)
13 Mar - Bad day. Hauled my crash pad all around rattlesnake canyon and didn't find ym boulders. Did some Ended the day with 3 onsight solos (4,6,7) on hodgepodge rock. The 6 and 7 both had some 1-2 move sketchy sections where the crack didn't exist or was insufficent, but I'm a little more confident after getting them.
13 Mar - Bad day. Hauled my crash pad all around rattlesnake canyon and didn't find ym boulders. Did some Ended the day with 3 onsight solos (4,6,7) on hodgepodge rock. The 6 and 7 both had some 1-2 move sketchy sections where the crack didn't exist or was insufficent, but I'm a little more confident after getting them.
14 Mar - climbed in the mullet block V1 and V2 flash (soft). Found a nice also likely soft V3 worked on for an hour, no success. One more big move to finish I think.
New Project Boulder - V3 "Moral Wasteland"
Finished with an onsight solo of Mike's books (5.6). Surpising slab finish on the 2nd pitch
15 Mar - textbook tendon protocol
17 Mar -- Hangboard #14
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-7.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-17.5)
4 ----------------- 4S-2-6 (-37.5) -- made spur of the moment decision to drop - 40 next time
5 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-12.5)
7 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-37.5)
8 ----------------- 5S-9 (-20)
9 ----------------- 5S-8 (-27.5)
2 ----------------- 6S (-7.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-17.5)
4 ----------------- 4S-2-6 (-37.5) -- made spur of the moment decision to drop - 40 next time
5 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-12.5)
7 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-37.5)
8 ----------------- 5S-9 (-20)
9 ----------------- 5S-8 (-27.5)
+
supplemental exercises
3 sets
-5+5 eccentric dumbell lowers (47.5lbs)
-5 ring dips (5lbs) -- dropped added weight to ease sternum strain
-5 toes-to-bar -- a bit of a progression beyond KTE
NOTES: Good session. Felt 10 degrees warmer than it was ~58
NOTES: Good session. Felt 10 degrees warmer than it was ~58
18 Mar - tendon protocol
20 Mar - long hike and some bouldering 6 hours of hiking total about 3 in and 3 out to the underground. Unsure if the rock quality was worth the hike. Grading is also soft as well, so I'm doubtful of the four V1's and single V2 I got.
21 Mar - Bouldering + power endurance
Two V1's and two V2's in barker damn area. Again, I'm doubftul of the grades feeling so soft given it's an "old school" area.
+
power-endurance
1:2 work:rest
Finished with 5 attempts on gunsmoke. Didn't finish of course, not even the 1st quarter. But first two laps were about 1.5 mins, last three were about 1 minute. Didn't feel as deeply pumped as I should have been.
Met a 19 year old who has been climbing for about 4 years. He did the full traverse of course and almost flashed high-noon (V5). Feeling jealous because earlier today he did satanic mechanic (12b sport). He also worked desert shield (13a). I'm scum.
21 Mar - Bouldering + power endurance
Two V1's and two V2's in barker damn area. Again, I'm doubftul of the grades feeling so soft given it's an "old school" area.
+
power-endurance
1:2 work:rest
Finished with 5 attempts on gunsmoke. Didn't finish of course, not even the 1st quarter. But first two laps were about 1.5 mins, last three were about 1 minute. Didn't feel as deeply pumped as I should have been.
Met a 19 year old who has been climbing for about 4 years. He did the full traverse of course and almost flashed high-noon (V5). Feeling jealous because earlier today he did satanic mechanic (12b sport). He also worked desert shield (13a). I'm scum.
24 Mar -- Hangboard #15
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-7.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-17.5)
4 ----------------- 4S-1-6 (-40)
5 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-10)
7 ----------------- 4S-9-5 (-37.5)
8 ----------------- 6S (-20)
9 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
2 ----------------- 6S (-7.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-17.5)
4 ----------------- 4S-1-6 (-40)
5 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-10)
7 ----------------- 4S-9-5 (-37.5)
8 ----------------- 6S (-20)
9 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
+
supplemental exercises
2 sets
-5+5 eccentric dumbell lowers (50lbs)
-5 ring dips (5lbs) -- dropped added weight to ease sternum strain
-5 toes-to-bar
NOTES: Had an almost scary pain in the left kidney region most of the day. Scared to possibly pass another stone. Only 2 sets of SE because after the 3rd, my stomach felt weird then I threw up. Had a long sleep and am feeling much better, no more kidney pain. I think I'm going to change it up and do max hang protocol instead for some time. I feel like I'm plateauing about now ~57
NOTES: Had an almost scary pain in the left kidney region most of the day. Scared to possibly pass another stone. Only 2 sets of SE because after the 3rd, my stomach felt weird then I threw up. Had a long sleep and am feeling much better, no more kidney pain. I think I'm going to change it up and do max hang protocol instead for some time. I feel like I'm plateauing about now ~57
25 Mar -- outdoor climbing
Pavel is visiting. I lead a 5.8 and 5.9. Tough start and kind of sloppy on the 5.9, but still an onsight
Pavel is visiting. I lead a 5.8 and 5.9. Tough start and kind of sloppy on the 5.9, but still an onsight
26 Mar -- outdoor climbing
continuing with Pavel's visit. Didn't push the envelope, he was practicing trad lead, so I solo'd up to clean his routes 6 routes. mos t were 5.4 and easier, one was 5.6, but really just a committing 1-2 moves
27 Mar -- outdoor climbing
Red Rock Canyon 3 trad multiptiches:
Sand felipe 10- I led the crux first pitch
Triassic sands - I lead the crux first two and final (both 10-)
Frogland - Simuled the first 2 5.7 pitches (lots of stress to not pull him off, felt kind of like a solo) and the crux 4th pitch (5.8, but plenty of rope drag)
28 Mar -- outdoor climbing
Red Rocks limeston in mt Potosi
10 routes, 8 were 5.10 and above. one in the guide book was 5.11a, so it's good to know I can climb 5.11 outside of apple valley :]
31 Mar -- tendon protool - just evening
Today would have been a hanboarding day, but my left hand feels a little tweaked, so I'm delaying a week
27 Mar -- outdoor climbing
Red Rock Canyon 3 trad multiptiches:
Sand felipe 10- I led the crux first pitch
Triassic sands - I lead the crux first two and final (both 10-)
Frogland - Simuled the first 2 5.7 pitches (lots of stress to not pull him off, felt kind of like a solo) and the crux 4th pitch (5.8, but plenty of rope drag)
28 Mar -- outdoor climbing
Red Rocks limeston in mt Potosi
10 routes, 8 were 5.10 and above. one in the guide book was 5.11a, so it's good to know I can climb 5.11 outside of apple valley :]
31 Mar -- tendon protool - just evening
Today would have been a hanboarding day, but my left hand feels a little tweaked, so I'm delaying a week