Took an extended break, about 2 weeks because a bit of hand pain (both hands, altering almost)
MAX HANG PROTOCOL
Doing the same hangs, but with 10 seconds on and 2 minutes off, 2 sets for each grip type. By some estimates, repeaters are 60-70% of your max intensity and max hangs are 80-90%. To be conservative, I'm assuming I'll go from 70 perfecnt to 80 percent. So I crunched the numbers to get the starting weights. However, I'm adding more counter weight at first to the MR to avoid overstraining
Doing the same hangs, but with 10 seconds on and 2 minutes off, 2 sets for each grip type. By some estimates, repeaters are 60-70% of your max intensity and max hangs are 80-90%. To be conservative, I'm assuming I'll go from 70 perfecnt to 80 percent. So I crunched the numbers to get the starting weights. However, I'm adding more counter weight at first to the MR to avoid overstraining
13 Apr -- Max Hangs Hangboard #1
1 ----------------- 2S
2 ----------------- 2S (0) -- calculations should bring this to +12.5, but I'm playing it safe
3 ----------------- 1S,9 (+2.5)
4 ----------------- 3,3 (-25) -- BAD (need more coutnerweight)
5 ----------------- 2S (-20) -- calculations should bring this to -10, but I'm playing it safe
6 ----------------- 2S (+10)
7 ----------------- 3,2 (-20) -- BAD (need more counterweight)
2 ----------------- 2S (0) -- calculations should bring this to +12.5, but I'm playing it safe
3 ----------------- 1S,9 (+2.5)
4 ----------------- 3,3 (-25) -- BAD (need more coutnerweight)
5 ----------------- 2S (-20) -- calculations should bring this to -10, but I'm playing it safe
6 ----------------- 2S (+10)
7 ----------------- 3,2 (-20) -- BAD (need more counterweight)
8 ----------------- 2S (0) -- i.e. BW
9 ----------------- 2S (-10)
9 ----------------- 2S (-10)
14 Apr -- supplemental exercises
various excercises with stretch bands, like rotary cuff stuff
17 Apr -- outdoor bouldering (~power)
Did a (soft) V2 and solo'd 5.6
18 Apr -- power endurance
Climbed the V3 project in the mullet bloc area
+
5 rounds of 1:2 work:rest on some random boulder traverse in the middle of nowhere
+
5 rounds of 1:2 work:rest on some random boulder traverse in the middle of nowhere
21Apr -- Max Hangs Hangboard #2
1 ----------------- 2S
2 ----------------- 2S (+2.5) -- Actually did +5 1st round, but dropped. Keep
3 ----------------- 2S (+5)
4 ----------------- 2S (-37.5) -- barely. Keep
5 ----------------- 2S (-17.5) -- keep, tweaky
6 ----------------- 2S (+12.5) -- easy
7 ----------------- 2S (-35)
2 ----------------- 2S (+2.5) -- Actually did +5 1st round, but dropped. Keep
3 ----------------- 2S (+5)
4 ----------------- 2S (-37.5) -- barely. Keep
5 ----------------- 2S (-17.5) -- keep, tweaky
6 ----------------- 2S (+12.5) -- easy
7 ----------------- 2S (-35)
8 ----------------- 2S (+2.5)
9 ----------------- 2S (-7.5) -- easy
9 ----------------- 2S (-7.5) -- easy
24 Apr -- outdoor sport
in AV. 10 climbs, mostly mid 10s. one was either 10d-11b and was pumpy, OS
25 Apr -- outdoor boulder, power
5 boulders, 0,1,1,1,2 Mostly stout for the grade in Ryan campground
+
5,5 eccentric DB lowers (50llbs)
+
5,5 eccentric DB lowers (50llbs)
28Apr -- Max Hangs Hangboard #3
1 ----------------- 2S
2 ----------------- 2S (+2.5)
3 ----------------- 2S (+7.5)
4 ----------------- 2S (-37.5)
5 ----------------- 2S (-17.5)
6 ----------------- 2S (+15)
7 ----------------- 2S (-35)
2 ----------------- 2S (+2.5)
3 ----------------- 2S (+7.5)
4 ----------------- 2S (-37.5)
5 ----------------- 2S (-17.5)
6 ----------------- 2S (+15)
7 ----------------- 2S (-35)
8 ----------------- 2S (+5)
9 ----------------- 2S (-5) (dd -5 then BW)
9 ----------------- 2S (-5) (dd -5 then BW)