June 2021

2 June -- Max Hangs Hangboard #7

1 ----------------- 2S
2 ----------------- 2S (+7.5)
3 ----------------- 2S (+12.5)
4 ----------------- 1S,9 (-30) -- sad, so close, but even the 1st was questionable
5 ----------------- 2S (-12.5)
6 ----------------- 2S (+20)
7 ----------------- 2S (-30)

8 ----------------- 2S (+15)
9 ----------------- 2S (+7.5)

NOTES: I missed last week and climbed more over the 3-day weekend prior, so only 1 rest day before. Did this before any bathroom usage, so perhaps a slight disadvantage there Started at 6:10 to beat the heat. 77F

5 June -- outdoor bouldering

V2, V1, V1 --This last one was V3 in the book, but it was downgraded. Figures. I don't think I can get a V3 2nd or 3rd go

7 June - projecting

Staying with Morgan this week, we have a new project- Gravity Rail 5.11-. I got 3 bolts in, then hung, 4, hang, 5 hang, pull on 6th draw. Not pretty but slightly better than my 1st attempt the previous weekend. Also tried warming up on a 5.9 slab, didn't get past the 1st bolt, but nice warmup

9 June - projecting

Warmed up on a 5.8 slab then tried Gravity Rail. Got to the 4th bolt hung, then moved to 5th,hung, then topped.

10 June - projecting

Got to the 5th bolt on Gravity Rail. Tried moving past it, got the large block, the pinch then went for the horn (Morgan and I deem "heartbreak horn"). Fell. 2nd attempt I got the 5th bolt as well, I think I fell going for the large block after the 5th clip

12 June - outdoor bouldering

V3, V2, V1, V1, V1 (probably all soft, certainly the V3 wa)

13 June - power endurance

worked heart of darkness on a TR solo (made it 2 of the 4* attempts without falling)

Tried gunsmoke traverse (continuing from where I last fell) with a 2:4 duty cycle. 5 sets, did a little worse than last time
*technically 5 and the last I fell, this last one had more of a "leading feel" because I was taking the rope down after, so I removed the tension weight at the bottom and had to pause every once in a while to pull the slack through. Still mentally scary

14 June -- Max Hangs Hangboard #8

1 ----------------- 2S
2 ----------------- 2S (+10)
3 ----------------- 2S (+15)
4 ----------------- 2S (-30) -- barely, keep
5 ----------------- 2S (-10)
6 ----------------- 2S (+22.5)
7 ----------------- 2S (-30) -- solid, increment

8 ----------------- 2S (+17.5)
9 ----------------- 2S (+10)

NOTES: good session. despite it being 84F at 6am! (and certainly warmer inside). I added a fan blowing across the board, so maybe a little advantage there. It's so warm at night I sweat, wondering if the lost water weight conferred some benefit

19 June -- Power (indoor limit bouldering)

went to a gym (ACG) today because I'm not in J-tree. After some warmups ending with a V5 3rdish go and a close V5 flash, I did:
V6 on a slab wall, then worked, but did not complete two V7s and a V6. One V7 was vertical and crimpy, The other two climbs were overhanging a bit. Ended with an "intense cooldown" on a V5 slab with slopers

23 June -- outdoor projecting

Tried Gravity rail again, didn't doas well. Got to the 4th bolt before falling. It was 84 and humid

25 June -- outdoor climbing

Tried a 10d called "pet or meat". Did 2 attempts but was very close

26 June -- Power (outdoor limit bouldering)

Two V2's (book said one was V1, but it was stout) - One was a crack, the other was my V2 project! (The one I first tried back on May 1st). Probably the hardest boulder I've done

27 June -- Power Endurance

V1 and V2 : note the V1 I tried in January (where the advantage of friction is more available) and couldn't get it. Today, I got it 2nd go. 7 tries on the V2, holds were small and delicate, but I wouldn't have been surprised if it was just a V1 (i.e., it's soft for the region, but not the softest I've encountered)
+

2:4 work:rest on Gunsmoke. Best attempt so far. On the 1st, I got past the long reach, then fell at the next crux. 2nd attempt I got to and fell just at the corner. 3rd I finished to the end then began reversing. 4th, I got through the corner falling just past, and last, I got to the crux
+
3x5 slow dumbell lowers 52.5 lbs
stretching

29 June -- Max Hangs Hangboard #9

1 ----------------- 2S
2 ----------------- 2S (+10)
3 ----------------- 2S (+15) *
4 ----------------- 2S (-30) 
5 ----------------- 2S (-10)
6 ----------------- 2S (+22.5)
7 ----------------- 2S (-27.5) -- solid again! increment

8 ----------------- 2S (+17.5)
9 ----------------- 2S (+12.5)

NOTES: *I actually failed (last second) on the 1st, but I think it was a friction thing, I added in a fan and held on for an extra 1-2 seconds. 90F at 7:30-8am. Halfway through I realized how easy thigns felt, had I known, I would have bumped up the weights (again, potentially water weight lost overnight from sweating, I didn't pee very much in the morning despite all the ice water I drank yesterday to cool down)

30 Jun-- outdoor sport climbing

Did Pet or meat! Josh 10d, now my hardest sport climb in this very old school area. Very smooth given I know the correct beta. 2nd session, 1st go of the day, 3rd go overall