July 2021

 3 Jul - outdoor bouldering (power)

V2, V2, V3 - one of these V2's was one I couldn't do back in April, so that's nice. Another was a slab. The V3, Javaman, was a 2-3 move wonder, followed by effectively a solo traverse out which actually got me a little spooked. I was sweating (Though that may have been due to the mid 90's temperature)



4 Jul - outdoor bouldering (power endurance)

No significant sends today. Worked on the boxer problem (V2, very greasy) and worked on pigpen. I managed to do the 2nd half of pig pen, the exit crack 3 times! So if I can figure out the cave part to the rest, it's going down. Power endurance as usual on gunsmoke. Not as good as last time. Fell at the long reach, then at the next crux. Made it back to the crux after 5 rounds
+
3x 55lb slow dumbell lowers
stretching

7 Jul -- Max Hangs Hangboard #10

1 ----------------- 2S
2 ----------------- 2S (+12.5)
3 ----------------- 2S (+17.5) 
4 ----------------- 7-6 (-27.5) 
5 ----------------- 2S (-7.5)
6 ----------------- 2S (+22.5)
7 ----------------- 2S (-25) -- keep

8 ----------------- 2S (+20)
9 ----------------- 2S (+12.5) -- keep

Notes: When I started these max hangs, the idea of adding 12.5 to my IMR grip and only taking 10 off my MR was scary. (In part due to a slight finger pain). Now I'm just so elated that it's without issue and I've met or exceeded these initial calculations :] I made the right decision to hold back. Temp 84-88 (it changes rapidly from the beginning to the end as it's the morning ~7:15 - 7:45

11Jul - 15Jul Climbing trip to Wyoming

Not to shabby. Onsighted an 11b, got another 11b on 3rd go, 10d on 2nd go. Worked 3 times an 11a, Failed gloriously at the end of a long 10c and very close to failure on a 10b (it just goes to show you there are different styles which can still reduce a climber to lower grades). Very poor performance the first day, fell on 10b and 10d, nothing higher than 10a. It was due to the 2ish hours of sleep I got on the drive in.

21 Jul -- Max Hangs Hangboard #11

1 ----------------- 2S

2 ----------------- 2S (+12.5)

3 ----------------- 2S (+17.5)

4 ----------------- 2S (-27.5)  -- keep still

5 ----------------- 2S (-7.5)

6 ----------------- 2S (+25)

7 ----------------- 2S (-25)

8 ----------------- 2S (+20)

9 ----------------- 2S (+12.5)

Notes: kept the weights mostly the same given I again missed a week due to climbing outside. Narrow pinch at least was successful. Didn't feel the wide pinch or MRP was that limiting, so they can advance next time. Used fan again. Temp ~90F at 7:30 - 8

24 Jul -- outdoor bouldering - power focus

Very bad today. Tried some V2's and V1's, couldn't get them. I only got two V0+'s and was dragging my feet between climbing areas


25 Jul -- outdoor bouldering - power endurance focus

- warmed up working on pigpen. First half then 2nd half. Didn't actually get the 2nd half this time :/



26 Jul - 30 Jul -- travelling + 3 day fast*

Climbed at a gym in Maryland on wed (28Jul), no particular focus, just enjoying the movement up to V4s. Tried a few V6 and V8's, certainly without succeeding. I took this opportunity to do my yearly 3 day fast. I last ate a container of veggies (chickpeas, bell peppers, eggplant or squash?, olive oil) on a Tuesday morning, then didn't eat until Friday afternoon, ~78 hours in total. Broke the fast as prescribed here. In summary: 

• One tablespoon of apple vinegar diluted with 5 ounces of water
• Afterward, bone broth (without meat) with a good pinch of sea salt
• 1.5 hours later, avocado with salt
• 2.5 hours later beef cooked with butter and cooked broccoli

In summary: 
* A note about my diet habits because I haven't recorded this here. It's been about a year since I began fasting regularly (i.e. every day) This is a breakdown of my current regimen:
- daily: 16 hour fast (eat within an 8 hour window, between around 12 noon and 8)

- weekly: one 24 hour fast, dinner to dinner

- yearly: 3 day fast
Why do I do this?
The daily is for disease prevention. Keeping insulin sensitivity high (but insulin levels low) and stave off diseases like diabetes, some cancers, alzheimers, metabolic syndrome

The weekly is for longevity. A 24 hour brings me to autophagy for cell rejuvenation/repair for longevity
The yearly is for immune system health. After around 72 hours, stem cells are stimulated causing a near complete rejuvenation of immune cells. Also around the 2 day mark, I guess natural HGH production quadruples