Sep 2021

1 Sep -- Max Hangs Hangboard #15

1 ----------------- 2S

2 ----------------- 2S (+20)

3 ----------------- 2S (+25)

4 ----------------- 2S (-25)  -- move on! 

5 ----------------- 6,4 (0 BW)  -- drop (-5?), I'm not making progress here

6 ----------------- 2S (+32.5)

7 ----------------- 2S (-22.5) -- move on!

8 ----------------- 6,6 (+27.5)

9 ----------------- 1S-7 (+17.5) -- keep

NOTES: no changes in weights because I missed last week. Pinches are feeling strong and are definitely ready to progress. Still getting strangly worse for MR and MRP. I forgot to put the fan on today, not sure if that affected anything. 77F but humid from some rain yesterday!!

Switching back to doing repeaters on the hangboard

8 Sep -- Hangboard Repeaters #1

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-7.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-17.5)
4 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-40)
5 ----------------- 2S-7-5-6-4 (-27.5)
6 ----------------- 3S-7-5-6 (-10)
7 ----------------- 4S-9-7 (-37.5)
8 ----------------- 3S-7-5-6 (-20) 
9 ----------------- 3S-7-6-6 (-27.5)

Bad first session. I tried my final numbers and weights from before thinking I could just jump back into it with the strength I got from doing max hangs -- nope. going to pull over the numbers from hangboard #10 last time (early-mid Feb)

11 Sep -- outdoor bouldering

Knocked out 5 or so soft V1s (tilt-o-meter and chuckwalla). Then I tried the pigpen twice. Both instances I was able to go from the start to the strenuous fall/catch before the rest. 2nd go I actually made itt o the rest, slid my pad out and tried finishing. I made it part way out to the ending crack. It's coming along nicely!

15 Sep -- Hangboard Repeaters #2

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-15)
3 ----------------- 6S (-25)
4 ----------------- 6S (-45)
5 ----------------- 3S-7-5-4 (-32.5) 
6 ----------------- 5S-7 (-17.5)
7 ----------------- 4S-9-6 (-42.5)  
8 ----------------- 4S-7-6 (-25) 
9 ----------------- 4S-6-6 (-32.5)

NOTES: better, but not quite there. I'm gonna try this set of weights again. Forgot to take temp, but it was a little cooler (high 70's)

18 Sep -- bouldering

Did a V2 (the boxer problem) and V2+ (roof romp direct). These were climbs I had worked on much of the summer. I was very surprised to get boxer problem the first attempt of the day. Usually I work it as a warm up while waiting for pigpen to go into the shade

19 Sep -- sport climbing

11a Onsight! Twister. Newest onsight and hardest Josh sport climb. The slab crux is through two bolts. I stayed left a little onto slighty easier slab. Todd Gordon confirmed it seems legit.

22 Sep -- Hangboard Repeaters #3

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-15)
3 ----------------- 6S (-25)
4 ----------------- 6S (-45)
5 ----------------- 6S (-32.5) 
6 ----------------- 6S (-17.5)
7 ----------------- 3S-5-6-5 (-42.5)  
8 ----------------- 5S-7 (-25) 
9 ----------------- 5S-8 (-32.5)

25-26 Sep

nothing special, V1+ (upsidedown pineapple, it's gorgeous) and a soft V3 (not so thin lizzie). Worked the gunsmoke traverse as usual on Sunday

29 Sep -- Hangboard Repeaters #4

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-15)
3 ----------------- 6S (-25)
4 ----------------- 6S (-45)
5 ----------------- 3S-7-6-5 (-32.5) 
6 ----------------- 3S-9-6-5 (-17.5)
7 ----------------- 4S-6-4 (-42.5)  
8 ----------------- 6S (-25) 
9 ----------------- 4S-8-6 (-32.5)

Notes: unexplined drop in performance. I was hoping to get 6 or 5-x across the board so I could increment the weights next time but I guess I'll keep them again