2 Oct - OUtdoor bouldering
Project complete! New Grade - Pigpen V4. So happy to have gotten this. Have been working it all summer. Happy about my self-spotting setup (sliding the pad from the rest hole out to the fall zone for the finishing crack)
3 Oct -- outdoor bouldering - power endurance
Got a kind of difficult V2 (trailblazer) after about 6 tries over 40 minutes. It was in the sun too which made the topout all the more sweeter. (But then was subsequently shutdown by a V0). As great as getting pigpen yesterday was. I still have a lot to be humbled by. Finished the day on gunsmoke as usual. Did alright. Got very close to going right in 2 tries (still took 3, this time, but I fell early on the long reach, on 2nd go, I jumped from long reach and fell at the crux of course, but I immediately jumped back on and made it to the corner. Next weekend I may try to work the crux
6 Oct -- Hangboard Repeaters #5
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-15)
3 ----------------- 6S (-25)
4 ----------------- 6S (-45)
5 ----------------- 3S-5-4-4 (-32.5)
6 ----------------- 3S-8-5-4 (-17.5)
7 ----------------- 2S-8-6-5-5 (-42.5)
8 ----------------- 5S-5 (-25)
9 ----------------- 4S-6-5 (-32.5)
2 ----------------- 6S (-15)
3 ----------------- 6S (-25)
4 ----------------- 6S (-45)
5 ----------------- 3S-5-4-4 (-32.5)
6 ----------------- 3S-8-5-4 (-17.5)
7 ----------------- 2S-8-6-5-5 (-42.5)
8 ----------------- 5S-5 (-25)
9 ----------------- 4S-6-5 (-32.5)
Notes: Objectively I'm getting worse, so next time I will add more counter weight. Temperatures where even with me at 66 (though it certainly feels hotter inside my brick house oven
9-10 October: outdoor bouldering, power then power endurance
The haul for this weekend:
9: V2, V3*, V4* (*Most definitely not even close to the standard. I feel no pride in either send. I've suggested lower grades for both, around V1, on mountain project)
10: two V1's and two V2's. Both these V2s were something I had tried previously, first month or so here and didn't get. So nice to see them go down. One was the Chube!
Finished as usual on the gunsmoke traverse. I actually did faiirly well. I made it to the right in two goes (sorta. I fell at the long reach, but jumped back on immediately because I didn't fall from being pumped out. Then I made it to AND PAST the crux. My fall happened trying to get through the corner. On 2nd go, I went past the corner, to the end then came back to and fell at the corner again. For both I was on for about 2.5 minutes. The remaining ones were paltry in comparison. Past the corner fall on the edges just before the crux, a fall at the crux (jumping back on because I wasn't completely pumped then fell at the long reach. For the last go I just went to the start and moved right. Fell at the "mini-reach"
9: V2, V3*, V4* (*Most definitely not even close to the standard. I feel no pride in either send. I've suggested lower grades for both, around V1, on mountain project)
10: two V1's and two V2's. Both these V2s were something I had tried previously, first month or so here and didn't get. So nice to see them go down. One was the Chube!
Finished as usual on the gunsmoke traverse. I actually did faiirly well. I made it to the right in two goes (sorta. I fell at the long reach, but jumped back on immediately because I didn't fall from being pumped out. Then I made it to AND PAST the crux. My fall happened trying to get through the corner. On 2nd go, I went past the corner, to the end then came back to and fell at the corner again. For both I was on for about 2.5 minutes. The remaining ones were paltry in comparison. Past the corner fall on the edges just before the crux, a fall at the crux (jumping back on because I wasn't completely pumped then fell at the long reach. For the last go I just went to the start and moved right. Fell at the "mini-reach"
13 Oct -- Hangboard Repeaters #6
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-20)
3 ----------------- 6S (-30)
4 ----------------- 6S (-50)
5 ----------------- 5S-6 (-37.5)
6 ----------------- 5S-6 (-22.5)
7 ----------------- 5S-9 (-47.5)
8 ----------------- 5S-7 (-30)
9 ----------------- 4S-6-6 (-30) -- mistake, should have been 32.5. done out of order
2 ----------------- 6S (-20)
3 ----------------- 6S (-30)
4 ----------------- 6S (-50)
5 ----------------- 5S-6 (-37.5)
6 ----------------- 5S-6 (-22.5)
7 ----------------- 5S-9 (-47.5)
8 ----------------- 5S-7 (-30)
9 ----------------- 4S-6-6 (-30) -- mistake, should have been 32.5. done out of order
NOTE: dropped down to last time's HB #7. Much better with the 5 lb difference. No fan, just needed to chalk up for a few (wide pinch and sloper) 54F
16-17 Oct
Not much saturday. Did a V0+ highball (25 foot) fingercrack, smears at the bottom and jugs at the top fortunately. Then later lead some sub 10 slabs. Sunday was sport with morgan, did a few sub 10s, then one 10b that was quitea proud line
20 Oct -- Hangboard Repeaters #7
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-20)
3 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-50)
5 ----------------- 5S-5 (-37.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-22.5)
7 ----------------- 6S (-47.5)
8 ----------------- 5S-8 (-30)
9 ----------------- 3S-7-8-6 (-30) -- mistake, should have been 32.5. done out of order
2 ----------------- 6S (-20)
3 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-50)
5 ----------------- 5S-5 (-37.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-22.5)
7 ----------------- 6S (-47.5)
8 ----------------- 5S-8 (-30)
9 ----------------- 3S-7-8-6 (-30) -- mistake, should have been 32.5. done out of order
23- 24 - outdoor ropes:
23rd,climbed in echo cliffs, attempted an 11a (failed), otherwise 9 and lower
24th consolation 5.9 trad. Led all pitches. Climbed with Serge. Probably my worst climbing day. We were on the wall for about 7 hours. Because Serge was just very very slow. Pitch 3 alone took like an hour and a half. On the approach, one of my flip flops broke and my water fell out and smashed into pieces on a rock. During the climb, we were off route first unintentionally and my rope got stuck so I had to untie and downclimb to free it. Then later, we let a party behind us pass and took an alternative off-route way up. The original intention was to do consolation direct 10b, but I don't think Serge would have been able to follow. (Fun fact: placed a piece after the 3rd pitch crux but I guess I didn't clip it. It didn't feel strenuous though). We topped out with just about 30 minutes of daylight left. After running down to the approach trai, I had to head over to get the gear that was left at the start then I just ran down the approach trail in my climbing shoes. Had a headache back at the car and treid very hard to not puke. Was dropped off at my car and I didn't drive for fear of killing someone, so I just slept in my car. Missed some Chinese on this day, only one I think since the 3 months of starting.
No climbing the rest of the month or hangboarding because I went home to visit my dad in the hospital and pass out halloween candy