June 2022

~6 month climbing gap (explanation/excuse)

To get ready to start back up at school, I moved out of J-tree at the end of December and prepped for moving in early Feb so I really only went to a climbing gym twice over that period. I moved to Australia about 3 weeks before school began and didn't have any money in my bank account until April. This was fortunate because school was a little rough as I couldn't prepare. Now the semester is over (except for finals which are in the next 2 weeks) and since I have room to breathe, I started a 2 week trial at a bouldering gym (plus I got in on a good deal a week ago to go to a roped gym for just $5). The grades are weird but I hoped on a "23 crack" (which is somewhere in the 5.11 range) same with a face climb. Although I was a bit nervous because my belayers had all just learned how to belay and some had pretty heinous technique. I got to near the top of each of those climbs but didn't really top. I lost a lot of endurance for sure. The bouldering gym doesn't have grades, they're just sorted by color in terms of difficulty. I'd guess the greens which I've mostly been climbing and a re just above my flash leel range from gym 3 to gym 5. I hope to be projecting orange and reds mostly and I'll probably start up a RCTM cycle again after enjoying the trial (assuming I don't flunk)

23 June

Did the 2 week trial early this June and just got a memebrship. I did a very poor hangboarding session. Not worth writing down, I'm using a beastmaker1000 hangboard which I'm not used to, so the weights and hold types don't carry over (especially the weights, they're all in kg!). So I will be finding my appropriate weights and begin an official hang session and begin an RCTM inspired training cycle soon

25 June - light bouldering

I want to do a second attempt at hangboarding so I didn't want to make it a tough day where I would zap my strength for tomorrow. I focused on some more balancy technical set problems. Though two of them admittedly had some small painful crimps that even now a few hours after I can feel. But I got them both (one orange one red, probably my first red). Did about an hour and finished with some shoulder mobility with a stick

Starting a hangboard cycle on a beastmaker 1000, not the board I'm familiar with. It doesn't have pinches, but the gym has some wooden cylinders I can pinch and hang from. Though right now the wide ones are broken. Also the weight is in kg, not lbs

26 Jun -- Hangboard Repeaters #1

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 2S-7-5-6-5 (-6) Did this one second, tired myself out
3 ----------------- 4S-7-6 (-6)  Used the wrong weight and did this first. intended to try -12
4 ----------------- 6S (-14)  
5 ----------------- 5S-6 (-20) 
6 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-10)
7 ----------------- 5S-8 (-14)  Repeated the narrow grip because wide unavailable 
8 ----------------- 2S-5-6-5-4 (-18) 
9 ----------------- 2S-7-6-6-4 (-16)

Notes: I went to fight club earlier in the day and got kicked in the stomach, an old strain pain came back, so I felt it throughout the day. Cooled down doing some easy climbs and making up balancy problems on a few sections of the slab wall. Very weeak attempt to do 2 sets of 4 front lever negatives

29 Jun -- Hangboard Repeaters #2

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 5S-8 (-8) Did this one second, tired myself out
3 ----------------- 2S-6-6-6-6 (-10)  Used the wrong weight and did this first. intended to try -12
4 ----------------- 6S (-14)  
5 ----------------- 6S (-19.5) 
6 ----------------- 5S-8 (-10)
7 ----------------- 4S-7-7 (-14)  Repeated the narrow grip because wide unavailable 
8 ----------------- 4S-7-7 (-19) 
9 ----------------- 4S-5-7 (-16.5)

Notes: no Supplemental exercises. Strain in my side still present. Still trying to find some of my weights. I don't like the pinches. As they are vertical cylinders, my whole hand grabs them. I knowt hat pinch training is really only effective when the distal part of the thumb is enganged which I'm sure isn't happening here. I tried some weird stuff like squeezing the bottom, which is why my pinch rounds weren't as good as the previous one, particularly the 2nd when I was stricter with trying that different thumb engagement