Jul 2022

6 Jul -- Hangboard Repeaters #3

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S(-8) I might have used the deeper pocker than I wanted. Not used to this board
3 ----------------- 5S-7 (-10) 
4 ----------------- 6S (-14) 
5 ----------------- 6S (-19) 
6 ----------------- 5S-8 (-9)
7 ----------------- 6S (-14)  Repeated the narrow grip because wide unavailable 
8 ----------------- 5S-9 (-19) 
9 ----------------- 4S-7-7 (-16)

NOTES:  Slightly better numbers. Took a week off because last week in the same evening and the following morning, I felt a sharp pain in my right middle finger's DIP joint. I wasn't going to HB today, I was going to just climb, but it was feeling so good, so I went for it. I'm going to add more counter weight and do a proper pinch next time, because what's happening now I'm not convincved is actually training my actual pinch strength. Chest/rib pain still present, so no supplementary exercises

9 Jul - Limit bouldering

Although I'm doing the RCTM, I want to make it slightly non-linear so I don't want to just do hangboarding for a month, then nothing, I want to have a focused phase (eg I'm in strength phase now) but I want to sprinkle in some of the different energy system training in each phase, so this was my sprinkle of power training.

45 minutes w/u - some rowing, slow pushups, then half an hour doing some purple to green climbs (gym v3/v4)

30 mins hard bouldering: 3 problems 10 minutes each. 3 orange problems (~gym V5's) took me 3 tries for the first two. The last one I didn't make it past the 2nd move and only gave it 2 attemtps. It's on the roster for next time

30 mins limit bouldering: 2 problems 15 mins each. It took a little longer because it was crowded. I futzed around on one red problem (like a gym 6), black and white (v7 and v8) but the black and white were too hard and the red wasn't a suitable style. Then I got to a red one that was good. On an arette, very crimpy, I considered that as my first problem. The 2nd one I made something up on the system wall (60 deg overhung) , 3 moves. Move off an undercling with two bad, but large slopey feet. The sequence is L, R, L on wooden incuts. On my 3rd and last attempt I almost held the R.

11 Jul -- Hangboard Repeaters #4

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-7) Did med edge for the 1st round accidentally, the actual 5 rounds felt easy
3 ----------------- 3S-7-7-6 (-9) 
4 ----------------- 0S-1-1-1-1-1-1 (-20)  tried pinching the bottom only, not even close
5 ----------------- 6S (-18.5) 
6 ----------------- 6S (-8)
7 ----------------- 6S (-12)  Just did it normally this time and used less counter weight 
8 ----------------- 6S (-18.5) 
9 ----------------- 6S (-16)

NOTES: improvments across the board other than med edge, might have been because I didn't tire myself out during the 1st pinch (because I could barely hang on). My right middle DIP joint hurt again but not during hanboarding or at anytime on the wall, just when I got home and opened the fridge door. I don't think it's going to be a big deal. I might have strained it honestly trying to do the bottom pinching, so I will just do it the "ineffective way" for now

                                                Red arete limit boulder project

14 Jul -- limit bouldering

I wanted to hangboard, but I forgot to bring my paper and didn't know my weights. I realized just now I could have just opened this blog to get them. Whoops

Warmed up climbing on easy stuff and did two greens.

30 mins hard bouldering - 3 oranges, Got to the top of the 1st but didn't hold it, and it was my last go. 2nd problem was the last I mentioned on the 9th. I just made one more longer, 2rd problem I only made 2 moves
30 mins limit bouldering: Worked the same problems , a red arete and my 3 move problem on the spray wall. This time 2 of my 4 attempts I made 2 moves and fell trying to hold onto the 3rd, some light improvement

16 Jul -- Hangboard Repeaters #5

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-6.5)
3 ----------------- 4S-7-6 (-9) 
4 ----------------- 6 (-16)  pinched with my thumb, middle + index to reduce friction assistance
5 ----------------- 6S (-18) 
6 ----------------- 6S (-7)
7 ----------------- 6S (-16)  3 fingers, as described above (in 4)
8 ----------------- 6S (-18) 
9 ----------------- 6S (-15)

Notes: Pretty good today, certainly getting some strength back. Followed up with some climbing, longer than I intended, in order to meet a couple so we can climb next weekend at the roped gym and perhaps outside (Curran and jen). Spent a lot of time this morning changing my tire, so I could bike again to the gym. But I also didn't get back until ~4 pm, so I'm fasting today until dinner

19 Jul -- Hangboard Repeaters #6

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-6)
3 ----------------- 6S (-9) 
4 ----------------- 6 (-15.5)  pinched with my thumb, middle + index to reduce friction assistance
5 ----------------- 6S (-17.5) 
6 ----------------- 6S (-6.5)
7 ----------------- 6S (-14)  *Actually used wide pinch now
8 ----------------- 5S-9 (-17.5) 
9 ----------------- 6S (-14.5)

+
SE
3 rnds:

3  front lever negatives

weighed pullups (16kg) 5-4-3 (attempted 5)

5 ea. KB presses (1st round 16 kg, 2nd and 3rd 20kg) 5-5-5

Notes: Excellent session. I also ate beforehand and wore jeans, so despite this extra weight I carried, I did well. *I bought 1 meter of paracord to replace the broken one and now I have two different "pinch" grips to train as best I can.

21 Jul -- Limit bouldering

warmed up by playing around for half an hour on easy routes
then 30 mins of hard bouldering (did a balancy red)

limit bouldering 30 minutes, 15 mins apiece on the same red and the system wall climb

Notes: was going to do campusing today, but there was some matt maintenance going on

23 July -- gym moderates

Went to the climbing gym today did climbs between Eubanks 17-21 (~5.9-5.11a). Not too many on the high end though, tried to focus on technique and aerobic endurance. I ended the day doing 4 in a row of 17-19-18-15 (5.9, 10a, 10b, 5.8). 24 hour fast day

24 July -- outdoor moderates

Went to Falcons Lookout did some 5easy's to a few low 5.10's all on TR, 5 routes total

28 Jul -- Hangboard Repeaters #7

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-5.5)
3 ----------------- 3S-8-8-7 (-8.5) 
4 ----------------- 6 (-15) 
5 ----------------- 6S (-16.5) didn't have access to some weights so I had to drop a full 1kg 
6 ----------------- 6S (-6)
7 ----------------- 5S-7 (-13.5)
8 ----------------- 4S-7-8 (-17.5) 
9 ----------------- 5S-6 (-14)

+
SE
3 rnds:

3  front lever negatives

weighted pullups (16kg) 4-4-3 (attempted 4)

5 ea. KB presses (1st round 16 kg, 2nd and 3rd 21kg) 5-5-3 (actually 5-5-5 with RH, 5-5-3 LH)

NOTES: First front lever felt comfortable. I think I held it for ~1/2 second before dropping and dropped fairly slowly. This may actually be possible.

30 Jul -- Campus board 1

warmup:

half an hour pyramids of easy to my limit (green)

20 minutes hard bouldering (attempted 2 orange climbs, 10 mins each, 3 attempts) didn't get either.

+

Matching ladders (B1, L2,R2,L3,R3,L4,R4) (all large edge)

1 - Good

2 - Fail (3/6?)

3 - Good

4 - Good

Basic ladders (B1,L2,R3,L4,R5,L6,B6) (all large edge)

5 - Fail (got to R5) (4/6)

6 - Fail (did matching ladders accidentally, fell and did 2 more movements) (4/6)

7 - Fail (got to R5) (4/6)

8 - Fail (got. To L4, fell and continued) (3/6)

_________________________ 36/48 ?  (guess)

NOTES: Lots of room for improvement which is exciting. Rounds 3,4,7,8 are supposed to be medium edge, but i'm not strong enough. Today is a 24 hour fast day, like last saturday