1 Aug 2022 -- Limit bouldering
warmup: 30 minutes of kinda continuous easy climbing, doing the 3 lowest grades (yellow, blue, purple) climbs, up and down
20 mins hard bouldering - working some green and orane climbs
30 mins hard bouldering - the same red and spray wall climbs. no progress. slightly worse actually, previously I was able to make at least one successful attempt at getting all 3 spray wall holds
NOTES: after the warmup, I felt a little soreness on the inside of my left index, 2nd knuckle (PIP? volar plate?) I climbed through it, it's alright for now
3 Aug 2022 -- Campus board 2
warmup: 30 minutes easy climbing (yellow, blue, purple)
20 mins hard bouldering - worked 2 red climbs. Got the 1st one 2nd go
+
campus board:
+
supplemental exercises (sorta). Did KB lowers because I was feeling some "climber's elbow"
6 Aug -- Hangboard Repeaters #8
2 ----------------- 6S (-5)
3 ----------------- 2S-9-7-7-5 (-8.5)
4 ----------------- 6 (-14.5)
5 ----------------- 6S (-15) accidentally dropped more than expected. Not bad
6 ----------------- 6S (-5.5)
7 ----------------- 5S-9 (-13.5)
8 ----------------- 6S (-17.5)
9 ----------------- 5S-7 (-13.5)
SE
3 rnds:
8 Aug -- limit bouldering
20-30 mins warmup climbs of blue and purples, this bled into doing some greens and oranges that weren't too difficult, but less continuous, i.e. I would rest about a minute between attempts.
+
hard bouldering 20 minutes on some red problems. I repeated one I've done before. Then I did a balancy red I tried before. I got futher but didn't match the final hold. I could grab statically with one hand though, previously I fell before grabbing it. Tried a third red a few times between chatting with a cute girl. A little weak to finish it, but got pretty close in all 3 tries
+
limit bouldering - same two problems. The red arete and the spray wall climb.
NOTES: I did worse on this part, but better in the hard bouldering so I have mixed feelings about today's success. Finished with 2 rounds of 2 front lever negatives just because. The first attempt of both rounds was fantastic. I'm making daily progress it feels like.
10Aug 2022 -- Campus board 3
warmup: 30 minutes easy climbing (yellow, blue, purple)
20-30 mins hard bouldering - Did one of the red climbs I failed on last session first go. Also did 2 attempts on the red arete. Both times I latched the last right hand pinch, I've never been able to do that before
+
campus board:
+
supplemental exercises (sorta). Did KB lowers again for the "climber's elbow"
Also I'm switching to this alternative scoring system. Each round is out of 6 because there are 6 movements, a plus means I used or moved off but didn't latch the next hold and gives half a point. Much more legible
13 Aug -- Hangboard Repeaters #9
2 ----------------- 6S (-4.5)
3 ----------------- 5S-9 (-8.5)
4 ----------------- 6 (-14)
5 ----------------- 6S (-14.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-5)
7 ----------------- 4S-8-6 (-13)
8 ----------------- 5S-9(-17)
9 ----------------- 3S-7-7-6 (-13)
SE
3 rnds:
NOTES: great front lever first round, pretty bad on the last round though. Added just .5 kg to the KB presses and I did pretty bad, no pulup improvement either (if it matters)
15 Aug -- limit bouldering
20-30 mins warmup pyramids up to purple+a few greens
+
20 mins hard bouldering 2 orange problems I never got before. I took about 3 tries each same two problems. The red arete and the spray wall climb. On final 2/3 attempts on red arete I got my high point; I Snagged the arete pinch and held it and fell working the feet up. Then on all 3 attempts of the spray wall climb, I grabbed the last hold of the 3 move sequence, but a foot slipped and I fell. Good progress
+
SE
2 rnds:
-3 front lever negatives
-10 slow pushups
NOTES: hard bouldering oranges
I did worse on this part, but better in the hard bouldering so I have mixed feelings about today's success. Finished with 2 rounds of 2 front lever negatives just because. The first attempt of both rounds was fantastic. I'm making daily progress it feels like.
17 Aug -- sort of power endurance
20-30 mins warmup pyramids to greens
+
20 mins hard bouldering
tried an orange and red in the new set, didn't get either.
+
3 power endurancy stuff on the system wall with James (McCullen) as my stick man! Round times were about 1:30, 1:15, 1:00, but I fell during those rounds. I hopped back on if the falls were more from technical failure instead of muscle pump. A good transition into power endurance exercises, but this one was a tad tough
21 Aug -- Power endurance
20-30 mins warmup
+
hard bouldering - new oranges and a red attempt
+
2:4 work rest
attempted 6 rounds, my first 3 rounds were on the system wall and it was too hard. I fell many times from pump and tried to get back on to accumulate the time, it was ~1:30,1:15,1:00, then I switched to a regular overhung wall with a green and purple and managed to stay on closer to 3 minutes (though I definitely touched the ground, shook out and hopped back on). There's lots of room for improvement here
25 Aug -- Power endurance
20-30 mins warmup
+
hard bouldering - new orange and red
+
6 rnds linked bouldering circuit
2:4 work rest
Avoided the system wall ain instead went to the same overhang wall as last time with a green and purple climb:
1st and 2nd round I think I completed fairly, 3rd needed to depump on route. 4,5,6 I fell off and instead went to a very slightly overhaning wall with a yellow (the easiest possible level) and stayed on against the pump
NOTES: even a few hours later I feel a deep pump in my forearms
28 Aug -- Outdoor climbing
Did 3 climbs all about 5.9 or lower on TR (tried one aroun 10b but couldn't get it), not much really
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