Oct 2022

1 Oct 2022 - projecting - yellow climb

after some warmup, I hopped on the system wall.
Y - 10*
Y - 10
Y - 10
wood - 11
Y -10

In all cases I think I fell going for the hold, i.e. I didn't latch 10 then fall going for 11, I got 9 then fell trying to get to 10 in the first case with the *, it was "legal" the 3rd hold is low and there's a big drop, I almost never actually get it, but I hop back on because the fall wasn't from forearm failing.
+
3 sets 3 front levers

NOTES: this is a best guess backlog, I forgot to add the seesion in the day of, it's currently october 6th

6 Oct - regular climbing

I was going to work on the projects, but the system wall was being reset, The effect on the project climbs then are TBD (as to if they will still be up).

Warmup
+
hardish bouldering. tried 2 oranges, got one after 30 minutes and ~10 serious attempts. The other I did not, but each attempt I made it a bit further. it's overhanging on small holds, an important style that I should work
+
2 sets 3 front levers

NOTES: Although it feels nice I can do the front levers, really it's only the first 2 of the first 2 sets which are good. I need to change something up to make more progress

9 Oct - projecting wood holds*

warmup
+
hard bouldering
I redid the orange one I worked on Thursday and it was much easier given the beta I found. I climbed two reds today as well. One was slabby, another was just soft, felt like an easy orange
+
wood project*
+ 3 sets 3 front levers. I recorded it and I'm not actually as rigid as I feel, so taht can be improved

NOTES:
* So there was a change out and now a new set of holds exist on the system wall. A new wooden hold sequence of 30 moves exists. I still only get to about 10 and then fall. So It can still be a benchmark climb for the next trianing cycle

13 Oct - projecting wood holds

warmup
+
hardish bouldering
new techy orange
+
wood project - all 5 attempts were getting to the 9th hold and falling going for the 10th
+
3 sets 3 front levers

NOTES: I was planning to start a new cycle over and hangboard again, but I forgot to bring my harness and extra carabiners.. Usually a cycle is preceeded with 2 weeks of complete rest, but that's in the intense 17 week schedule. As I've been doing 2-3 days per week, it's not much to reovery from and I'm doing this weird linear/non-linear merge

16 Oct -- Hangboard Repeaters #1

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-6)
3 ----------------- 3S-7-6-6 (-9) 
4 ----------------- 6S (-15.5) 
5 ----------------- 6S (-17.5)
6 ----------------- 5S-7 (-6.5)
7 ----------------- 4S-6-4 (-14)
8 ----------------- 3S-9-7-7 (-17.5) 
9 ----------------- 4S-9-7 (-14.5)

+
SE
3 rnds:

weighted pullups (20kg) 5-5-5

5 ea. KB presses (16kg) 5-5-5

3  front levers

NOTES: I must have swapped looking at my last KB and weighted pullup weights. I guess my pullup weight has improved. KBs felt easy, so I will certainly raise both next time

22 Oct -- Hangboard Repeaters #2

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-5.5)
3 ----------------- 4S-8-8 (-9) 
4 ----------------- 6S (-15) 
5 ----------------- 6S (-17)
6 ----------------- 5S-7 (-6)
7 ----------------- ? (-14) *
8 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-17.5) 
9 ----------------- 4S-7-8 (-14.5)

+
SE
3 rnds:

weighted pullups (21.5kg) 5-5-5

5 ea. KB presses (17.5kg) 5-5-5

3  front levers (tried for a weak 4th)

NOTES: *someone else was hangboarding, when the time came to do wide pinches, I didn't have the correct weights. But there was a pinch block and I tried it, both 24 and 20 kg were too much for me to hold. This may be more effective pinch training and I think I'll try to use it in the future as it's closer to the correct stimulus than hanging from the wooden cylinders. Pullup and KB presses were quite easy at the weight, I'll keep adding larger amounts (like 1.5kg instead of .5 kg increments)

26 Oct -- regular climbing

I met with people today, so I didn't do a hangboard session. I tried 8 new oranges and got 5 of them rather good. 2 others were really not bad, I got to the 2nd to last hold in basically every attempt, but it was super packed because I went at 5pm, just as busy as going on the weekend

30 Oct -- regular climbing

Went with James today to boulder so no training. Nice progress though. Did 2 of the oranges I didn't get last time as well as 2 newer ones on the new set and 2 reds. One was flashed, one was 2nd go.
+5 front leavers
+ 2 1 arm pullup negatives 2 each arm