Dec 2023

 2 Dec -- outdoor bouldering
Climbed in El Cariso. Didn't do too many climbs, V1,V2,V2,V2



3 Dec -- indoor bouldering
Warmped up, did up to 2 V5's. Several V4's and 3's

7 Dec -- indoor climbing
blocks

10a, 10b, 10d
11b, 11a, 10d(f)
TR: 11b, 11a, 11c(f)

Notes: TR's were to do a TR diherdal only, but then just do the rest because. Taking it easy (no 12's) because my finger pain (Right MF DIP joint) since El Cariso





9,10 Dec -- outdoor climbing

Joshua Tree

9th: apparition rock: 4 moderates between 5.7-5.9

10h: beak boulders: 3 5.8-5.9, 10b(f)




NOTE: started a part time job at the lifetime rockwall again, so I will get spurious extra practice here and there

15 Dec -- indoor climbing
blocks

10a, 10c, 10d
11b, 11b/10a, 10b
TR: 11c, 10b, 11c(f)

NOTE: this is being backfilled over a month later, but I belive the 11b/10a was me starting up an 11b, but then being too tired from the previous climb, so I continued up an adjacent 10a

17 Dec -- indoor climbing
blocks

10a, 10c, 10d
11d(f), 11a, 10c(f)
TR: 11b, 10d, 10c

Notes: As before, TR's were to do a TR diherdal only, but then just do the rest because. Taking it easy (no 12's) because my finger pain (Right MF DIP joint) since El Cariso

18 Dec -- outdoor climbing

New Jack city

3 sub 10's, 5 10's, 11b (f) (crucified). Tried this 8 years ago. I have made effecively no improvement :[

22 Dec -- indoor climbing

blocks

10a, 10c, 10a
12a(f), 11a, 10d
11b(f), 10d, 10d(f) => 9

24 Dec -- recovery climbing +  supplemental exercise

40 mins on the wall doing kinda pumpy climbing (more than I should have)
+
shoulder prehab and some leg prehab (10 external rotations with a bar), 1-legged squats, theraband shin extensions and hip ab/adductors

Nov 2023

 2 Nov -- Gym climbing

blocks
10a, 10b, 10c
11a, 10d, 11a
11a, 11b(f), 10c

NOTES: taking it easy as my finger was hurting a bit after last week's bouldering attempt








7 Nov -- gym climbing

blocks
10a, 10b, 10d
12a(f), 11a, 11b(f)
11b(f), 11a, 11b(f)

10 Nov -- gym climbing

blocks:
10b, 11d ----- dihedral TR
12b         ----- dihedral TR
12b, 11a, 11a(f)
11b, 10c, 11b(f)

NOTES: new gym grade achieved! 12b, a legitimate one (previously I did a 12b  lead dihedral but it was easier than an 11, felt mislabeled). The 12b in the first set was TR so it didn't count and it was a dihedral which plays to my strengths anyway.

19 Nov -- gym climbing + SealFit WOD

blocks:
10b, 10c, 10d
12a *
11b, 11b(f), 11b(f)
11a, 11a(f), 11a(f), 10a(f)
+
90 minute ruck for distance - 45 lbs, 20 pushups every 10 minutes
(filled a small daypack with 45lbs of plates (25+10+10). Every 10 minutes, with the weight on, do 20 pushups)  4.5 miles according to https://www.runningahead.com/maps

NOTES: Been watching NavySeal stuff and got a little inspired to try the free weekly WOD from SealFit. It was interesting how the pushups got more difficult from just carrying the rucksack. In general. *this 12a was my project for the last month. Everywhere you see a 12a(f) in the past, it was almost certainly this one. Glad to have gotten it. I skipped the last clip and hooked over the top at the anchor. The reason it was by itself was because Morgan, in his set, failed but nearly finished his project climb and decided that rather than tiring himself out, he would give it another shot, so I did a one off to keep the rests even. My final 10a was because both the 11's before it were low falls.

21 Nov -- gym climbing

blocks:

10c,10d,10d
12a(f)
11d,11b(f).11a(f)
11b,10d,10c

NOTES: new 12a project, got pretty far, maybe 3 clips from the end on this. The 11d and 12b that began the 3rd and 4th rounds were ones that I previously failed.

23 Nov -- supplementay 

Deck of Cards: each suit corresponds to one of pullups, pushups, situps, squats and the value gives the number (A,J,Q,K are 1,11,12,13), and jokers are a sprint out and back ~130m according to https://gb.mapometer.com/. for time: 25:24

27 Nov -- supplementary

HIIT
With a partner:
*~Tabata hill sprint   - 9 rounds
Tabata RH shoulder press (20lb kb) 10-10-8-5-3-3-3-3
*~Tabata hill sprint   - 8 rounds
Tabata LH shoulder press (20lb kb) 10-8-5-5-5-5-5-5
**partner tabata globe squate with 20lb kb 18-17-16-20


NOTES: Did this with a partner (Erica). *Really one person is doing the tabata shoulder press while the other is doing the spritns up the hill and jogging down. The distance was chosen such that it would be approximately 10 seconds of sprinting then 20 seconds of jogging. **Trading off each tabata round i.e. 20 seconds of work then 40s of rest (10s rest + other person doing their 20 + 10s rest)

Oct 2023

 1 Oct -- Gym climbing

lead climbing with Morgan. Lead blocks:

10b, 10c, 10a, 10a

12a, 10c, 10a

11d(f), 10, 11d (dihedral)

Notes: I suppose this was my first gym 12. Unlike the very very soft 12b dihedral late last month, this was just a soft, vertical 12. The failed 11d of the 3rd block, I had one more clip and then the anchors. Good attempt.

5 Oct -- Gym Climbing

Lead climbing with Sergei (and Micah). Lead blocks:

10c, 10d, 11a

12b(f), 11b(f), 10d

11c, 11d(f), 11a

11d(f), 11a

NOTES: I biked an hour before and after, an hour each for the sake of mitigating carbon emmissions, but it also turned out to be good aerobic training.

10 Oct -- Gym Climbing

Lead climbing with Serge

10b, 10a, 11a

12a(f), 11a, 11b

11c(f), 11c(f), 11a(f)/10d

NOTES: as last time, I biked before and after to meet Sergei at his work in order to get a ride up. The 11a/10d at the end was me trying the 11a and falling, so I continued up an adjacent 10d. Seemed alright as I fell on all of them this round.

12 Oct -- Gym Climbing

Autobelay and TR at lifetime. Didn't pay attention to too many of the grades because they're soft and also done in easier style (i.e. not leading). After trying a few routes, doing a block of 3 on TR, I was on the autobelay going up and down for ~45 minutes.

NOTES: I interviewed for the rockwall job and got an opportunity to go climbing, so I did

13 Oct -- Gym Climbing

Lead blocks with Morgan

10c, 10a, 10b, 11a

12c/12a(f), 11b, 10b

11c (f at top), 10d, 11b => 10b repeat (f)

NOTES:.l the 12c/12a thing was me trying and falling right at the 2nd clip of a 12c and instead heading over to try a 12a. 11b => 10b was similar, except I just continued up the other route. Failed to even complete the 10b the 2nd time anyway

15 Oct -- Gym Climbing

Lead blocks with Serge

10b, 10c, 10d

12a (f), 11b(f), 10b

11d(f), 11b(f), 10c(f)

10c, 10c, 10b

NOTES: did 4 blocks instead of 3 because we had a bit more time. And again, biked before and after for about an hour each, adding to the aerobic load

17 Oct -- Gym Climbing

Lead blocks with Morgan

10b, 10c, 10b

12a(f), 10c, 11a

11a, 11a, 11b(f) => 9

NOTES: yes, failed the 11b and continued up the adjacent 9. The first blocks of 10 were all overhanging. the 2nc block had some overhanging parts and the two 11a's of the last block were everhanging. A little gentle in preparation for climbing in Red Rock in the next few days

Walked ~40 mins before and after to meet Morgan and get a ride to the gym (I suppose that's relevant and counts)

20-22 Oct -- Outdoor climbing.
Red rock Canton:
20 Oct: unimpeachable groping repeat, 7 pitches sport 5.10d
21 Oct: Dark shadows, 4 pitches, trad 5.8
22 Oct: single pitch sport: 10a, 12a, 11b(f), 10c

NOTES: According to the book, this climb in black corridor, "crude control", was 12a. It has been downgraded in mountain project by consensus as 11d, so I'm unsure whether it counts. It has a hard first move leading to basically 5.9 territory for the rest of it. Tenatively, it may be a new grade, but unsure.

25 Oct -- gym climbing

Warup: V2s and wall traverse for ~10 mins
+
blocks of 3:

10a, 10d, 10c

12a(f), 10d, 11a

11c(f), 10c, 11a

+

5 or so attempts on a V6

NOTES: Felt really strong today. Most of the routes were overhanging. Both failed routes were near the top of the routes. Small finger pain in right middle finger I noticed on my last few attempts of the V6 and later in the evening

29 Oct -- SE

Tabata pushups: Tried 12

12-12-12-12-12-12-12-9
= 93

Sep 2023

 

9 Sep -- outdoor bouldering

At a place called lamb rock, had a short 2 hour stop in a bouldering spot while in the middle of a camping trip. Mostly did V0 flashes, tried a V2 which I think I did wrong (or didn't complete), and a few attempts at a long V2 traverse. Would have gotten it if I had more time. Finished with a 5.6 40' solo in a low-angled dihedral.

13 Sep -- gym climbing

At senderone, did 3 blocks of 3 with Morgan and Ryan

1. 10a,10c,11b

2. 10d(soft), 11b,11a

3. 11b (fell), 11a (fell), 10a

Finished up with a few attempts on a V5, close, but not quite

20 Sep - supplementary

Tried a tabata pushups, aimed for 12. almost:

12-12-12-12-12-12-12-9

26 Sep -- gym climbing

Senderone, blocks of 3 wit Morgan, Ryan and Serge:

1 . 10a, 10c, 11a/b

2. 11a/b, 10b, 10b

3. 12b*, 11c (fell), 10a

* I guess this was my first gym 12 (or 12 in general, but it was a verfical dihedral that felt like a gym 10d, so it wasn't "real")

28 Sep -- gym climbing (bouldering)

Hangar 18 with Alec. No particular focus. Doing mostly V3-V5's. I tried a V6 near the end, didn't get it, but I didn't feel as weak as I have been with the lead climbing days
from memory:
V4, V3 (2nd go), V3, V3, V5 (2 attempts, half way), V4, traverse project (3rd go), V5 (3 attempts, missed last hold), V6 (2 attempts, half way)

29 Sep -- gym climbing

SenderOne with Morgan

Boulder warmups
+
blocks of 3:
11b, 10c, 10a
11c (f), 10d, 10d (f)
11d(f), 11c dihedral, 10b(f)

All the failed ones (f), I was 2-3 clips from the top, about 3/4 or more of the way up.

Aug 2023

2 Aug - Outdoor climbing

First time outdoor in over a year, considering how jetlagged I was, it was pretty bad.  I tried:
5.6, 5.8, 5.9, 5.10a, 5.11a . I only got the 10a and 6 clean and the 11a was horrible, I was hanging every bolt. Limestone over at mt. Nemo in Canada





4 Aug - Outdoor climbing

Better than the last time, did:

5.9, 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10c. Onsight for all except I had a heartbreak slip on the 10b right at the anchors, just sudden, not pumped. LImestone climbing at the swamp in Canada

13 Aug -- supplementary

Tabata pushups. aimed for 12, did: 12-12-12-12-12-12-8-6 _______ 86

14 Aug -- supplementary

Did a pilates class. Hot pilates, ~95F. Was invited by Erica's Dad (72 years old!) and it was intense. Not enjoyable, just painful and tiring. But better than nothing in this otherwise reduced exercise period

July 2023

 6 Jul -- Regular climbing

As it has been 2 weeks, I was just eager to climb. Did 2 orange and a red (effectively, I actually didn't control the last hold, but w/e)

7 Jul -- More regular climbing

I intended to Hangboard, but I forgot to bring my stuff, so I'll try again another day. A little worse today because I'm not accustomed to multiple days in a row (though I should be)

I don't have enough time to do a full cycle at the gym before leaving Australia, so I will be doing a non-linear program for the remainder of the month

10 Jul -- Hangboard Repeaters (#1?)

1 ----------------- 6S

2 ----------------- 5S-8 (-3.5)

3 ----------------- 5S-5  (-8.5) 

4 ----------------- L 2S-4-7-6-6, R 6S (b+14.5)

5 ----------------- 6S (-13)

6 ----------------- 6S (-4)

7 ----------------- L 2S-6-6-3-3, R 4S-5-6(b+12.5)

8 ----------------- 4S-7-6 (-16) 

9 ----------------- 5S-6 (-13.5)
+
supplemental exercise
3 rounds:
5 hexbar Deadlifts (115kg)
several attempts on paralletes to move to handstand and hold L-sits, not a high aim

NOTES: As usual, I grab from the middle of the last set of 10, I think this was the weights I used during the 4th or 5th and I did better than all of them except in the pinches which are reduced a bit.

12 Jul -- Hard Bouldering

45ish mins warmup on blues, purples and greens
+
hard bouldering: working some difficult orange and reds. I didn't get any of them. I was gonna try "harder" stuff, but I'm stuck at this level for today




15 Jul -- power endurance

30 mins warmup on blues, purples, greens
+
harder bouldering attempting a red a few times, got fairly close, same with an older red which is more "balancy". no success on either
+
power endurance: 2:2 work:rest ratio up and down a blue and yellow. 

NOTES: originally I thought the blue yellow was going to be too easy, it was super juggy, lots of opportunity for weight on feet, only slightly overhung, but it ended up being fine. It was the only uncrowded place in the gym so slim pickings. Definitely could not transfer between the climbs during the 6th and final round which I suppose it what is to be aimed for.

19 Jul -- Hangboard Repeaters (#2?)

1 ----------------- 6S

2 ----------------- 4S-9-5 (-3)

3 ----------------- 4S-5-6  (-8) 

4 ----------------- R 6S (b+15), L 5S-9 (b+14.5)

5 ----------------- 5S-5 (-12.5)

6 ----------------- 5S-9 (-3.5)

7 ----------------- R 3S-9-6-7, L 3S-6-5-5 (b+12.5)

8 ----------------- 2S-8-7-7-6 (-16) 

9 ----------------- 3S-6-8-7 (-13)
+
supplemental exercise
3 rounds:
5 hexbar Deadlifts (120kg)
2 HSPU on paralletes (head to 2 foam blocks) (attempted 3)

NOTES: Heavier weights so I guess it's ok some rounds were worse, but no excuse for slopers. Did an orange on warmup and attempted another.

21 Jul -- campus board

hour warmup. UP to and including doing a new orange, getting to the last but not controlling the final hold on an orange. Decent attempts on a new red.
+

Campus board

Matching ladders

(B1, L2,R2,L3,R3,L4,R4,L5,R5) (all large edge) 1,3

(B1, R2,L2,R3,L3,R4,L4,R5,L5) (all large edge) 2,4

1 5/8

2 8/8

3 5/8

4 8/8

Basic ladders 

(B1,L2,R3,L4,R5,L6,R7,L8,B8) (all large edge) 5,7

(B1,R2,L3,R4,L5,R6,L7,R8,B8) (all large edge) 6,8

5 6/8

6 4/8

7 7/8

8 7/8

____________________ 50/64

+

KB lowers (because elbow pain)

24 x2 3 sets

26 x2 3 sets

27 x2 2 sets
(could not do 29 that well with RH, so it's not included)

22 Jul -- fight club

After a year of a break, I went to a Sanda session
3 events: boxing - did alright, opponent was much more experienced
Sanda throwing - (i.e. no contact striking). Did well, mostly because opponent was new
2 rounds of Jiu-Jitsu - opponent is a white belt and commented I have good instincts

Notes: elbow pain from yesterday still felt





23 Jul -- long walk

approximately 10km around the Yarra river to geocache and explore. Good recovery day

24 Jul -- power endurance

Warmup - up and down blue, purple, green. 
+
hardish bouldering
Attempted 2 reds (no send, but at last move on both). Got one of the previously failed reds, so that's checked off.
+
power endurance
As before, 2:2 work:rest ratio up and down a blue and yellow. Only failed once during the 5th round when going from blue to yellow after the down climb
+

KB lowers (because elbow pain)

24 x2 3 sets

27 Jul -- regular climbing

Used my guest pass brining a new japanese resident to our building and Jihee came as well, so just regular hardish bouldering attempts. No new climbs, got close on two reds, last hold again. Very close on one of them, soon....

29 Jul -- Aerobic training

I didn't do this just for the sake of it, but it was worthy enough to log here on my "fitness log". I rode from Carlton VIC to Hooper's Crossing to pick up a new hiking bag. Total round trip is about 70km (40mi)

30 Jul -- Regular climbing

Got two of the reds I was failing at these past two weeks. Very nice end to the gym. This was my last session at the gym and in Australia

(Note: backlogged on 13 Aug, can't remember all the specific details)

June 2023

 3 Jun -- Top Rope

Wene tto Blackburn with Nick (a NZer living in Melbourne who frequents my normal gym spot), he agreed to take me out to the Blackburn gym. We did lots of TRing. One particularly difficult climb was 23 (as low as 11a/b as high as 11c according to mountain project) Fell at the bottom once, but then managed the rest of it. Other than that, a few 20's, another 22, high teens. Did a few rounds of 3 in a row of mid to high teens (19-17-17), (18-16-18) to work on endurance and technique.

8 June -- regular climbing

Several days off because I had two exams in close proximity. Just wanted to climb. Did two oranges (nearly flahsed one, I fell at the start and immediately hopped back on). And I did a red after a few tries. Tried 2 other oranges which I think will go.

9 June -- Supplementary exercise

Tabata pushups. Aimed for 10
Just barely got it during the last round

12 June -- regular climbing

Warmup
+
projected some climbs I did 3 new orange climbs (1 flash) and 5 new reds! All new and most were technical rather than physically difficult. I also worked on a black climb which I hear was easy. I got to the 2nd to last hold so I have confidence. Great day!




<No Climbing for the next 2 weeks, travelling>

21 June -- Supplemental exercise
Tabata pushups. Aimed for 11
11-11-11-11-11-11-11-10




29 June -- Supplemental exercise
Tabata pushups. Aimed for 11
11-11-11-11-11-11-9-6

May 2023

3 May -- Campus Board

30 min warmup
+
some harder bouldering. Got an orange that I previously couldn't do the start. It was much easier to start and I got it after 2 goes. Each time, getting the start fairly easily
+

Campus board

Matching ladders

(B1, L2,R2,L3,R3,L4,R4) (all large edge) 1,3

(B1, R2,L2,R3,L3,R4,L4) (all large edge) 2,4

1 6/6

2 8/8

3 10/10

4 12/12

Basic ladders 

(B1,L2,R3,L4,R5,L6,B6) (all large edge) 5,7

(B1,R2,L3,R4,L5,R6,B6) (all large edge) 6,8

5 6/6

6 7/8*

7 7/10

8 6/12

____________________ 62/72
*This one was just a miscount. I feel like I had it in me to do more

+

KB lowers

24 x2

26.5 x2

29 x2

NOTE: Wow! The plan was just to do the 6 movement. The first matching ladder set was so easy, so I decided to bump to 8. Then that was easy, then I changed to 10 then 12. I tried to replicate it for basic ladders, but I did get some difficulties. Still, nothing lower than 7. I also didn't even notice that I started my KB lowers at 24 which was the max during the previous time. It might be because of the 5 days off. Which is nice for performance, but I'd rather climb more.

11 May -- shit climbing day

It has been a week since I climbed because of school assignments and such. I just planned to do regular climbing today, but my neck was hurting so bad so I left after essentially an hour of warmup. I had to leave. I also hurt my left shoulder at the end (maybe a subluxation)

14 May -- Regular climbing

Wasn't sure how my neck or shoulder would feel, so I brought in a harness just in case. But they were ok, so I managed to do some hardish bouldering. But it was a long warmup on purples/blues and did two new hard greens. Got close on an orange, and tried two reds, and another orange, but not too much improvment. Mainly today was a makeup for Wednesday's bad day
+
shoulder rehab

17 May -- Power Endurance

Cold today so long warmup. followed by a few attempts on some oranges, no new successes. 
+
6 rounds: (2:4) work:rest up and down these lightly overhanging blue and yellows. Last 2 rounds were rough

+
shoulder rehab

20 May-- Hangboard Repeaters #8

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-3.5)
3 ----------------- 4S-6-6 (-8)
4 ----------------- R 6S, L 3S-8-5-5* (b+15)
5 ----------------- 6S (-11.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-3.5)
7 ----------------- R 3S-9-7-7, L 2S-8-6-5-4 (b+13)
8 ----------------- 3S-7-7-7 (-16)
9 ----------------- 5S-7 (-13)

NOTES:*Guess last one. I only had "3-8-5" written down. no SE, not feeling motivated today.

24 May -- Power endurance

Warmup
+
6 rounds (2:4) duty cycle. Same as last time. Last round was a little messed up because someone was on the wall before I began it. I climbed the blue up and down but couldn't move over to the yellow and didn't have the gass to keep climbing the blue, so I did a lot of hanking and shaking.

27 May -- Hard Bouldering

Warmup
+
worked a crimpy overhanging orange
+
did a new painful crimpy slab (2nd go)
+
new route attempts on the spray wall

They reset the spray wall last week, so my last project doesn't exist (and it's down). Also, they didn't put up a 30 move path, so I don't know what to do for my testing near the end of this round.

30 May -- Power Endurance

Warmup
+
6 rounds 2:3 duty cycle. Wall was being reset so I couldn't use the previous set. I found a mostly vertical/slightly overhanging green and blue. It Felt easy the first round, so I did 2:3 and tried 2:2. 2nd to last round was very long because someone else hopped on, so it ended up being about a 4 min break. I feel it's just enough to try a 2:2 next time.

Apr 2023

5 Apr -- Hangboard Repeaters #6

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 4S-8-5(-3.5)
3 ----------------- 5S-7 (-8.5)
4 ----------------- R 6S, L 4S-8-5 (b+14.5)
5 ----------------- 6S (-12.5)
6 ----------------- 5S-7 (-4)
7 ----------------- R 5S-9, L 2S-7-7-7-6 (b+12.5)
8 ----------------- 4S-8-6 (-16)
9 ----------------- 5S-8 (-13.5)
+
SE

3 rnds:

-2 slow one arm pullup negatives (switching each time)
-5 straight leg leglifts (slowish)
-5 ea one arm KB press (21. 5kg) (4 in 2nd, 3rd round) 

8 Apr -- Hard Bouldering

Some warmups then:
-Worked one red problem
-My project on the spray wall

Notes: Hurt my wrist again some more. I'm gonna add in some rehab exercises

11 Apr -- Hard Bouldering

Some warmups:
-flashed 3 oranges
-KB negatives with 20,24,25,26,27 kg

Notes:Making some good progress with the footwork, just need to hold it together

14 Apr -- Hangboard Repeaters #7

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 5S-9 (-3.5)
3 ----------------- 3S-7-6-6 (-8)
4 ----------------- R 6S, L 4S-7-7 (b+15)
5 ----------------- 6S (-12)
6 ----------------- 5S-9 (-3.5)
7 ----------------- R 4S-6-6, L 4S-9-6 (b+13)
8 ----------------- 3S-8-8-7 (-16)
9 ----------------- 4S-4-8-7 (-13)
+
SE

3 rnds:

-2 slow one arm pullup negatives (switching each time)
-5 straight leg leglifts (slowish)
-5 ea one arm KB press (21.5 kg) (L 5-3-3, R 4-3-3)

19 Apr -- Campus Board

30 min warmup
+
some hard bouldering on two reds
+

Campus board

Matching ladders

(B1, L2,R2,L3,R3,L4,R4) (all large edge) 1,3

(B1, R2,L2,R3,L3,R4,L4) (all large edge) 2,4

1 3

2 6

3 6

4 5

Basic ladders 

(B1,L2,R3,L4,R5,L6,B6) (all large edge) 5,7

(B1,R2,L3,R4,L5,R6,B6) (all large edge) 6,8

5 5

6 6

7 6

8 6

____________________ 43/48

NOTE: elbow pain, did low KB lowers

22 Apr -- hard bouldering

warmup

+
moderate climbs.Repeated some oranges. did 3 new red climbs all today. Last one merged into the actual hard bouldering
+
hard bouldering. A red that tool a few tries, a black and the spray wall project

25 Apr -- Campus Board

30 min warmup
+
some hard bouldering retrying a red, trying a new
+

Campus board

Matching ladders

(B1, L2,R2,L3,R3,L4,R4) (all large edge) 1,3

(B1, R2,L2,R3,L3,R4,L4) (all large edge) 2,4

1 3

2 2

3 4

4 4

Basic ladders 

(B1,L2,R3,L4,R5,L6,B6) (all large edge) 5,7

(B1,R2,L3,R4,L5,R6,B6) (all large edge) 6,8

5 4

6 5

7 4

8 4

____________________ 30/48

NOTE: Pretty bad performance day today. Also hurt wrist again on the dynamic part of the "new red" as described above. Also had some elbow pain, did low KB lowers 20>22>22.3>23.5>24

28 Apr -- Hard Bouldering

30 min warmup

+
worked some hard greens, 2 of them. sucessful after a few goes

+
two hard orange problem - got 1. And the project on the spray wall

Notes: Neck hurts, pinched nerve again. Took a lot of strength away

Mar 2023

 New Training Cycle

1 Mar -- Hangboard Repeaters #1

1 ----------------- 6S

2 ----------------- 6S (-4.5)

3 ----------------- 4S-7-6  (-8.5) 

4 ----------------- L 6S, R 6S (b+14)

5 ----------------- 6S (-15)

6 ----------------- 6S (-5.5)

7 ----------------- L 5S-5 R 5S-9 (b+12)

8 ----------------- 6S (-17) 

9 ----------------- 6S (-14.5)

+

SE

3 rnds:

-2 slow one arm pullup negatives (switching each time)

-5 straight leg leglifts (slowish)

-5 ea one arm KB press (20kg)

NOTES: The weights were taken from my repeaters #5 from last round, not sure if that's too ambitious, it wouldn't be sustainable to do that each hangboard cycle.

3 Mar -- Hangboard Repeaters #2

1 ----------------- 6S

2 ----------------- 6S (-4)

3 ----------------- 5S-7  (-8.5) 

4 ----------------- L 3S-7-8-4, R 6S (b+14.5)

5 ----------------- 6S (-14.5)

6 ----------------- 6S (-5)

7 ----------------- L 4S-7-5 R 5S-7 (b+12.5)

8 ----------------- 5S-7 (-16.5) 

9 ----------------- 4S-7-7 (-14)

+

SE

3 rnds:

-2 slow one arm pullup negatives (switching each time)

-5 straight leg leglifts (slowish)

-5 ea one arm KB press (20.5kg)

NOTES: The wide pinch just really hurts my skin. I'm going to grab it next time right at the edge to prevent the corner from biting into my thumb. With the SE, I felt weak. Yesterday I did some handstand practice so my shoulders were worked. Also just for fun, I did a slow negative pullup with each hand, so again, no rest. While yesterday's negatives I was able to control for the first two rounds and the third was just a fast descent on the 2nd attempt, more than half of them today were faster lowers than I was hoping.

8 Mar -- Hangboard Repeaters #3

1 ----------------- 6S

2 ----------------- 4S-9-5 (-3.5)

3 ----------------- 3S-5-8-5  (-8.5) 

4 ----------------- L 6S, R 6S (b+14.5)

5 ----------------- 6S (-14)

6 ----------------- 6S (-4.5)

7 ----------------- L 4S-7-4 R 4S-4-2 (b+12.5) *

8 ----------------- 5S-6 (-16.5) 

9 ----------------- 5S-6 (-14)

+

SE

3 rnds:

-2 slow one arm pullup negatives (switching each time)

-5 straight leg leglifts (slowish)

-5 ea one arm KB press (21kg)

NOTES: *I forgot to fully write down the last right hand. I have 4-4 (which is 4S-4)written down on my paper, but I remember one of the pinches I dropped it very quickly. So I suppose it was this. Not sure why it's worse than last time. I also had a long break between the first and 2nd round of the SE because I was in a long chat with someone.

10 Mar -- unstructured climbing

Sort of. I was just itching to climb, as I've just been hangboarding.
warmup: up and down, blues, purples, a green
+
worked some new oranges. Made good progress at the end on an old balancy one, I just have to string it all together. Tried a few reds and a technical black with an easy start (also a black on the same balancy slab as the orange one above). Not very much structure. 

13 Mar -- Hangboard Repeaters #4

1 ----------------- 6S

2 ----------------- 5S-5 (-3.5)

3 ----------------- 5S-4  (-8.5) 

4 ----------------- L 3S-8-5-6, R 5S-9 (b+14.5)

5 ----------------- 6S (-13.5)

6 ----------------- 5S-9 (-4)

7 ----------------- L 2S-5-5-5-4, R 4S-8-4 (b+12.5)

8 ----------------- 6S (-16.5) 

9 ----------------- 6S (-14)

+

SE

2 rnds:

-2 slow one arm pullup negatives (switching each time)

-5 straight leg leglifts (slowish)

-5 ea one arm KB press (21kg)  (5 first round, 3 second round)

NOTES: To clarify, that's only 2 of the planned 3. This is because my neck feels a little tweaked. I was also planning to work the orange slab, but too painful. Also, I guess today was just a pad day for pinches. Otherwise my numbers improved / weight went up

19 Mar -- Regular Climbing

Absent the last week because my neck was hurt (It's mostly alright. But I just wanted to climb today without any specific training in mind. I was trying some harder stuff. Did a new orange and two older orange projects (one was the pinchy one, one was a slab). Both of those felt good. I even gave a few serious goes on a soft white

22 Mar -- Hangboard Repeaters #5

1 ----------------- 6S

2 ----------------- 5S-4 (-3.5)

3 ----------------- 3S-8-6-5  (-8.5) 

4 ----------------- R 5S-9, L 4S-6-4 (b+14.5)

5 ----------------- 5S-8 (-13)

6 ----------------- 3S-8-8-7 (-4)

7 ----------------- R 4S-6-6, L 3S-7-6-5 (b+12.5)

8 ----------------- 3S-9-8-6 (-16) 

9 ----------------- 4S-6-8 (-13.5)

+

SE

3 rnds:

-2 slow one arm pullup negatives (switching each time)

-5 straight leg leglifts (slowish)

-5 ea one arm KB press (21kg)

NOTES: edges got worse (despite not changing the weight. narrow pinch a little better, wide pinch a little worse. Also the sloper and MRP worse than expected after just a .5 kg change. Specific strength it seems for all this is very fickle.

29 Mar - regular climbing

It has been a week because of assignments I couldn't go on the weekend. I just wanted to climb instead 

of hangboard. Got a new orange one, nothing else particularly interesting

31 Mar - regular climbing

This time I climbed with people to use up my May guest pass, so no focus. I did get an orange that was shutting me down for a while. I also got a red. It was a tiny foot chip, hands up matched in a shallow slopy pocket. Move right hand up to a sloper and bump left hand to an undercling crimp attached to the sloper. Then it's a foot up to the pocket followed by a strainful lever up. After that, two balancy steps to the finish.

Feb 2023

1 Feb -- Power Endurance

warmup ladders (purples and blues, some greens)

+
power endurance
6 rnds 2 mins on 1 min rest
This was the same vertical then green route I did last time. Since it was too easy last time (26 Jan), I changed it to 2:1 duty cycle. It was still not too bad, mostly the end of the last 2 rounds where I was really feeling the pump. I guess I need to select a climb with more overhang for next time.

3 Feb -- limit bouldering

warmup ladders
+
hard bouldering (some oranges. Flashed one, took a few tries on a different)
+
limit bouldering 

5ish attempts on a pinchy red corner climb
+
5ish attempts on the climb I set on the system wall

NOTES: Someone named claire did the FA on that on the 27th.. I also saw a guy today flash it after I told him about it. I saw him almost do (but fall) on the red one that was part of my limit bouldering attempt. He also was working on a black one. Just to get the level established. I downgraded it to V5. Finger feling fine. Wrist alright, slight pain, but nothing to worry about.

6 Feb -- Power Endurance

warmup ladders (purples and blues, some greens)

+
some hard boulders (got a balancy red and orange. Tried another hard orange and red)
+
power endurance
6 rnds 2 mins on 3 min rest (did 2 mins first round)

This was a different route. As green was too easy, I needed to get something with more overhang. I chose 2 purples. One was hanging quite a bit on the arms, the other was awkward mantlng and stuff. There was a blue route in between for the transfer between. Much harder, maybe the 2 and 3 was too ambitious. It was only the first  two rounds I went up and down the overhanigng purple twice.

9 Feb -- Campus Board #5

30 min warmup
+
some hard bouldering on pinchy red arete
+

Campus board

Matching ladders

(B1, L2,R2,L3,R3,L4,R4) (all large edge) 1,3

(B1, R2,L2,R3,L3,R4,L4) (all large edge) 2,4

1 4* (touched ground after 2, but continued)

2 3

3 6

4 5* (touched ground after 2 but continued)

Basic ladders 

(B1,L2,R3,L4,R5,L6,B6) (all large edge) 5,7

(B1,R2,L3,R4,L5,R6,B6) (all large edge) 6,8

5 6

6 6

7 6

8 4

____________________ 40/48

Notes: probably too many campus sessions for this cycle. Slightly made up for my poor performance last time (but there was some cheating. Those rounds I just grabbed the board wrong). Felt a bit of "climbing elbow" so I ended with a few negatives on each arm with the 20 and 24 kg kettlebells. 24 was a little too hard for my weak right wrist, so I didn't do more than 1. Then instead did a 22.5

11 Feb -- redpoint attempts

30 min warmup
+
hard bouldering (corner red)
+
30 move wooden circuit on system wall 
5 attempts
1. 10

2. 10

3. 9

4. 10

5. 9

NOTES: (the order might be wrong, I'm filling this out the day after, but it was definitely two rounds where I got ot the 9th old and three where I got to the 10th)
I belive last time I tried, I was consistently getting to 8-9, not 9-10. So after a cycle of training, I guess this is still an improvment. But it's not a good comparison, because the route now has changed. Need another cycle to see. (also I'm still in this projecting phase right now). Unrelated note: last night I woke upin a cold sweat suddenly and felt a little physically weak. Last time something unexpected

14 Feb -- redpoint attempts

30 min warmup
+
hard bouldering (new red slab (sucessful), project corner red)
+
30 move wooden circuit on system wall 
5 attempts
1. 10

2. 10

3. 10

4. 10

5. 10*
+
prehab cooldown. 3 sets of
-pushup wrist circles (put wrists on ground facing forward, outside, and backward and going 5 circles in one direction and 5 in the reverse)
-2-3 front levers followed by hanging to stretch the back
-heavy kb negatives for elbow tendons (20 and 24 kg)

NOTES: So I wasn't payng attention as to which of these were grabbing the 10th hold solidly and falling while going for 11th and which were just sort of touching the 10th but not controlling and falling. Certainly the last one was less controlled. As with last time, my elbow tendons were hurting a little, so I did slow negative KB lowers (along with other stuff described above)

18 Feb -- redpoint attempts

30 min warmup (blues purples and some greens)
+
hard bouldering (new orange slab (easy), project corner red). Two oranges with knee bars
+
30 move wooden circuit on system wall 
5 attempts
1. 9

2. 9

3. 9

4. 9

5. 9
+
prehab cooldown. 3 sets of
-pushup wrist circles (put wrists on ground facing outside and backward and going 5 circles in one direction and 5 in the reverse)
-3 front levers followed by hanging to stretch the back
-heavy kb negatives for elbow tendons (24 kg)

NOTES: I was paying attention this time. And I was falling going for the 10th hold. I did a little too much before starting this workout, so I might have been tired. Still, I need to improve this silly move

21 Feb -- redpoint attempts

30 min warmup (blues purples and some greens)
+
hard bouldering (an orange slab climb (tried it last time, got it now), almost flash of another orange)
+
30 move wooden circuit on system wall 
5 attempts
1.11

2. 15 ---- WOW!

3. 10

4. 11

5. 10
+
prehab cooldown. 3 sets of
-pushup wrist circles (put wrists on ground facing outside and backward and going 5 circles in one direction and 5 in the reverse)
-3 front levers followed by hanging to stretch the back
-heavy kb negatives for elbow tendons (26.5 kg)

NOTES: 
Great progress today on the wooden circuit! So I spent less time on hard bouldering, which might explain why I had more energy. Even if the 15 was a fluke, I was consistantly getting to hold 10 and falling going for 11 or just grabbing leg and cutting feet and falling off. 

22 Feb -- lead climbing

Went to blackburn. i managed to get a lead testout done so I climbed. there. I think the total was:
18 (1 or 2)
20 (4 or 5)

21 (1)

So these are between 10a-10d

NOTES:

feels good, but I'm definitely tired and the grades aren't even that high from what I used to climb at Sender One. also, I'm sort of doing an unplanned 36 hour fast. I had dinner yesterday, and was goingt o do my 24, but the climbing went late and might as well just go through with it

25 Feb -- redpoint attempts

30 min warmup (blues purples and greens)
+
hard bouldering (a few red corner attempts)
+
30 move wooden circuit on system wall 
5 attempts
1.14 *

2. 15

3. 10

4. 10

5. 10
+
prehab cooldown. 3 sets of
-pushup wrist circles (put wrists on ground facing outside and backward and going 5 circles in one direction and 5 in the reverse)
-3 front levers followed by hanging to stretch the back
-heavy kb negatives for elbow tendons (26 kg)

NOTES: 
I got 14 the first round because I couldn't find 15 (the label was tucked under and away. Otherwise I feel like I had more energy to move further). But still, progress is progress.

Jan 2023

 3 Jan -- regular climbing

The last few days were hot and I used my guest pass today to climb with James. Long warmup. I got a red (techincal and slabby, nothing crazy) 3rd try today, probably 4th overall. And worked on two oranges. 

Notes: My right middle finger is hurting a little. Nothing serious right now, it usually hurts more after climbing has finished, but I just need to be careful. Wrist hurts still, but not as bad today

(Taking a week off to recover the finger)

11 Jan -- easy climbing

I've been doing some rehab I found online here. The mobility exercises 2-3 times per day https://theclimbingdoctor.com/rock-climbing-finger-tenosynovitis/
After 8 days of rest, I came to the gym to climb gently and do nothing too strenuous
30 minutes of blues and purples
+
a few greens. I did 2 oranges which weren't really fingery (one was balancy) then tried a balancy red. Nearly flashed it, but I felt a very very slight discomfort in my finger and left.
+
hangboard: 3 sets of 10 second hangs on the large edge and then small edge with 12 kg counterweight. Ended with some slow fist pushups. Maybe to strengthen the wrist

NOTES: all in all, my finger was basically fine. My wrist hurt more. One a green one and then one of the oranges. So I might need to switch to rehab exercists for the wrist

8 Jan - 12 Jan -- annual multiday fast (3.5 days)

It's that time of year where i do my annual 3 day fast. (Described in detail last time, July2022. in short, this interval is for hematopoeitic stem cell rejuvenation)
Fast started after dinner Sunday (8Jan) and broke around noon today (12 Jan)

total time: 86 hours

Fast was broken just as last year: some diluted apple cider vinegar then salt and bone broth. 1.5 horus later some salt on an avocado 3 hours later some beef cubes and brocolli (but I also had some garlic and onions with it). Same thing 4 hours after that first meal.

The first and 2nd day I felt a little weird, mostly somewhat restless legs. This couldn't have been from the fast because I'm accustomed to one day fasts and the first day is no different from usual. I didn't really get hungry except briefly (and not severely) after I climbed on 11 Jan.
I didn't sleep very well the last night. Some noises woke me up and I got up very wide awake and energetic at 3 ish. Tried hard to fall back asleep. 

The strangest thing happened in the morning though. I was feeling a little weak, mildly tingly. My heartrate picked up for about 30 minutes. I drank some electrolyte mix and layed down for a bit. Then I was fine. Took the opportunity to head to the grocery store to grab the groceries. It was a little scary though. Last year I didn't even need electrolyte supplementation, I just drank water. Since the first day I was feeling weird, I'm guessing I might have been sick from something else. I'll see if next year the same thing happens.

15 Jan -- Campus Board #3

20 min warmup *

Campus board

Matching ladders

(B1, L2,R2,L3,R3,L4,R4) (all large edge) 1,3

(B1, R2,L2,R3,L3,R4,L4) (all large edge) 2,4

1 6

2 6

3 6

4 6

Basic ladders 

(B1,L2,R3,L4,R5,L6,B6) (all large edge) 5,7

(B1,R2,L3,R4,L5,R6,B6) (all large edge) 6,8

5 6

6 6

7 6

8 5 <== just missed

____________________ 47/48

NOTES: Near perfect! I moved off the last to the final match on 6, but didn't quite hold. Last time wasn't a fluke afterall. I was hesitant to do this as by finger pain from earlier. But it isn't bothered at all from this exercise. I felt it a little during the warmup. I think it's just lateral movement that might cause the pain. *Short warmup as well because I was in a video call just before and throughout the workout. Also the warmup was essentially playing around on the spray wall (because of the video conference and it was crowded)

18 Jan -- hard bouldering

30 min warmup (purples, blues, some greens)
+
harder bouldering (greens with progresive loading and an orane (one I previously couldn't get)) 
+
hard bouldering
3 attempts with several minutes rest between:

- the same pinchy orange one I've been working on

- my crimpy project on the system wall

NOTES: made a good amount of progress on the system wall. i could do the first 3 moves. Previously I could only do them individually and not link them. It's 5 total moves. Somewhat depenedent on finding better toe chips. But I'm feeling stronger for the first few moves

21 Jan -- Power Endurance
warmup ladders (purples and blues, some greens)

Tried 2 oranges that have (and continue to) shut me down
+
power endurance
6 rnds 2 mins on 4 mins rest
Mostly stayed on this purple route up and down. On the 2nd round I did a blue between the purple attempts, but really, too crowded. I was failing on the last round, first two was like 4 times up and down, next two was like 3. 5th and 6th were 2 or less

24 Jan -- Hard bouldering

~30 min warmup on blues purples and greens
+
work on an orange
+
hard bouldering
-3 attempts on a new slabby crimpy climb. Decently well (then I flashed an adjacent balancy red one)
-4 attempts Same project on the spray wall. I actually added it and graded it about V6. Can't wait to see if it gets climbed)

NOTES: No finger pain, despite both hard climbs being fairly strenuous. I'm now in the habit of eating jello and vitamin C before all climbing workouts to promote recovery (using dried apricots as the vitamin C source). I have many session's worth. Also dried cranberries to follow up

26 Jan -- Power Endurance
warmup ladders (purples and blues, some greens)

+
power endurance
8 rnds 2 mins on 4 mins rest
(actually I did this for the first 4 rounds, then I got inspired), the last ones had
3, 2, 2, 1 minutes. I did 8  round because it was feeling pretty easy

I selected a green route. It was vertical and thin. I was hoping the stimulus would work well. I guess the fact that it relied on feet was good because when I did get tired in the last few rounds, I needed to use my technique, but it didn't drain my forearms as much as I was hoping. I need to select something with more overhang next time. It was a little too easy, thus the reason for extending it by 2 more rounds.

29 Jan -- Campus Board #4

40 min warmup

Campus board

Matching ladders

(B1, L2,R2,L3,R3,L4,R4) (all large edge) 1,3

(B1, R2,L2,R3,L3,R4,L4) (all large edge) 2,4

1 6

2 4

3 6

4 1

Basic ladders 

(B1,L2,R3,L4,R5,L6,B6) (all large edge) 5,7

(B1,R2,L3,R4,L5,R6,B6) (all large edge) 6,8

5 4

6 3

7 4

8 3

____________________ 31/48

NOTES: wow! this took a turn. I took a longer warmup and should have been more thoroughly prepeared, but it didn't pan out well. I was on the phone throughout, but that was the same last time. So I don't know how it could have possibly affected it this time.