1 Feb -- Power Endurance
warmup ladders (purples and blues, some greens)
+
power endurance
6 rnds 2 mins on 1 min rest
This was the same vertical then green route I did last time. Since it was too easy last time (26 Jan), I changed it to 2:1 duty cycle. It was still not too bad, mostly the end of the last 2 rounds where I was really feeling the pump. I guess I need to select a climb with more overhang for next time.
power endurance
6 rnds 2 mins on 1 min rest
This was the same vertical then green route I did last time. Since it was too easy last time (26 Jan), I changed it to 2:1 duty cycle. It was still not too bad, mostly the end of the last 2 rounds where I was really feeling the pump. I guess I need to select a climb with more overhang for next time.
3 Feb -- limit bouldering
warmup ladders
+
hard bouldering (some oranges. Flashed one, took a few tries on a different)
+
limit bouldering
5ish attempts on a pinchy red corner climb
+
5ish attempts on the climb I set on the system wall
NOTES: Someone named claire did the FA on that on the 27th.. I also saw a guy today flash it after I told him about it. I saw him almost do (but fall) on the red one that was part of my limit bouldering attempt. He also was working on a black one. Just to get the level established. I downgraded it to V5. Finger feling fine. Wrist alright, slight pain, but nothing to worry about.
+
hard bouldering (some oranges. Flashed one, took a few tries on a different)
+
limit bouldering
5ish attempts on a pinchy red corner climb
+
5ish attempts on the climb I set on the system wall
NOTES: Someone named claire did the FA on that on the 27th.. I also saw a guy today flash it after I told him about it. I saw him almost do (but fall) on the red one that was part of my limit bouldering attempt. He also was working on a black one. Just to get the level established. I downgraded it to V5. Finger feling fine. Wrist alright, slight pain, but nothing to worry about.
6 Feb -- Power Endurance
warmup ladders (purples and blues, some greens)
+
some hard boulders (got a balancy red and orange. Tried another hard orange and red)
+
power endurance
6 rnds 2 mins on 3 min rest (did 2 mins first round)
some hard boulders (got a balancy red and orange. Tried another hard orange and red)
+
power endurance
6 rnds 2 mins on 3 min rest (did 2 mins first round)
This was a different route. As green was too easy, I needed to get something with more overhang. I chose 2 purples. One was hanging quite a bit on the arms, the other was awkward mantlng and stuff. There was a blue route in between for the transfer between. Much harder, maybe the 2 and 3 was too ambitious. It was only the first two rounds I went up and down the overhanigng purple twice.
9 Feb -- Campus Board #5
30 min warmup
+
some hard bouldering on pinchy red arete
+
+
some hard bouldering on pinchy red arete
+
Campus board
Matching ladders
(B1, L2,R2,L3,R3,L4,R4) (all large edge) 1,3
(B1, R2,L2,R3,L3,R4,L4) (all large edge) 2,4
1 4* (touched ground after 2, but continued)
2 3
3 6
4 5* (touched ground after 2 but continued)
Basic ladders
(B1,L2,R3,L4,R5,L6,B6) (all large edge) 5,7
(B1,R2,L3,R4,L5,R6,B6) (all large edge) 6,8
5 6
6 6
7 6
8 4
____________________ 40/48
Notes: probably too many campus sessions for this cycle. Slightly made up for my poor performance last time (but there was some cheating. Those rounds I just grabbed the board wrong). Felt a bit of "climbing elbow" so I ended with a few negatives on each arm with the 20 and 24 kg kettlebells. 24 was a little too hard for my weak right wrist, so I didn't do more than 1. Then instead did a 22.5
11 Feb -- redpoint attempts
30 min warmup
+
hard bouldering (corner red)
+
30 move wooden circuit on system wall
5 attempts
1. 10
+
hard bouldering (corner red)
+
30 move wooden circuit on system wall
5 attempts
1. 10
2. 10
3. 9
4. 10
5. 9
NOTES: (the order might be wrong, I'm filling this out the day after, but it was definitely two rounds where I got ot the 9th old and three where I got to the 10th)
I belive last time I tried, I was consistently getting to 8-9, not 9-10. So after a cycle of training, I guess this is still an improvment. But it's not a good comparison, because the route now has changed. Need another cycle to see. (also I'm still in this projecting phase right now). Unrelated note: last night I woke upin a cold sweat suddenly and felt a little physically weak. Last time something unexpected
I belive last time I tried, I was consistently getting to 8-9, not 9-10. So after a cycle of training, I guess this is still an improvment. But it's not a good comparison, because the route now has changed. Need another cycle to see. (also I'm still in this projecting phase right now). Unrelated note: last night I woke upin a cold sweat suddenly and felt a little physically weak. Last time something unexpected
14 Feb -- redpoint attempts
30 min warmup
+
hard bouldering (new red slab (sucessful), project corner red)
+
30 move wooden circuit on system wall
5 attempts
1. 10
+
hard bouldering (new red slab (sucessful), project corner red)
+
30 move wooden circuit on system wall
5 attempts
1. 10
2. 10
3. 10
4. 10
5. 10*
+
prehab cooldown. 3 sets of
-pushup wrist circles (put wrists on ground facing forward, outside, and backward and going 5 circles in one direction and 5 in the reverse)
-2-3 front levers followed by hanging to stretch the back
-heavy kb negatives for elbow tendons (20 and 24 kg)
+
prehab cooldown. 3 sets of
-pushup wrist circles (put wrists on ground facing forward, outside, and backward and going 5 circles in one direction and 5 in the reverse)
-2-3 front levers followed by hanging to stretch the back
-heavy kb negatives for elbow tendons (20 and 24 kg)
NOTES: So I wasn't payng attention as to which of these were grabbing the 10th hold solidly and falling while going for 11th and which were just sort of touching the 10th but not controlling and falling. Certainly the last one was less controlled. As with last time, my elbow tendons were hurting a little, so I did slow negative KB lowers (along with other stuff described above)
18 Feb -- redpoint attempts
30 min warmup (blues purples and some greens)
+
hard bouldering (new orange slab (easy), project corner red). Two oranges with knee bars
+
30 move wooden circuit on system wall
5 attempts
1. 9
+
hard bouldering (new orange slab (easy), project corner red). Two oranges with knee bars
+
30 move wooden circuit on system wall
5 attempts
1. 9
2. 9
3. 9
4. 9
5. 9
+
prehab cooldown. 3 sets of
-pushup wrist circles (put wrists on ground facing outside and backward and going 5 circles in one direction and 5 in the reverse)
-3 front levers followed by hanging to stretch the back
-heavy kb negatives for elbow tendons (24 kg)
+
prehab cooldown. 3 sets of
-pushup wrist circles (put wrists on ground facing outside and backward and going 5 circles in one direction and 5 in the reverse)
-3 front levers followed by hanging to stretch the back
-heavy kb negatives for elbow tendons (24 kg)
NOTES: I was paying attention this time. And I was falling going for the 10th hold. I did a little too much before starting this workout, so I might have been tired. Still, I need to improve this silly move
21 Feb -- redpoint attempts
30 min warmup (blues purples and some greens)
+
hard bouldering (an orange slab climb (tried it last time, got it now), almost flash of another orange)
+
30 move wooden circuit on system wall
5 attempts
1.11
+
hard bouldering (an orange slab climb (tried it last time, got it now), almost flash of another orange)
+
30 move wooden circuit on system wall
5 attempts
1.11
2. 15 ---- WOW!
3. 10
4. 11
5. 10
+
prehab cooldown. 3 sets of
-pushup wrist circles (put wrists on ground facing outside and backward and going 5 circles in one direction and 5 in the reverse)
-3 front levers followed by hanging to stretch the back
-heavy kb negatives for elbow tendons (26.5 kg)
+
prehab cooldown. 3 sets of
-pushup wrist circles (put wrists on ground facing outside and backward and going 5 circles in one direction and 5 in the reverse)
-3 front levers followed by hanging to stretch the back
-heavy kb negatives for elbow tendons (26.5 kg)
NOTES:
Great progress today on the wooden circuit! So I spent less time on hard bouldering, which might explain why I had more energy. Even if the 15 was a fluke, I was consistantly getting to hold 10 and falling going for 11 or just grabbing leg and cutting feet and falling off.
Great progress today on the wooden circuit! So I spent less time on hard bouldering, which might explain why I had more energy. Even if the 15 was a fluke, I was consistantly getting to hold 10 and falling going for 11 or just grabbing leg and cutting feet and falling off.
22 Feb -- lead climbing
Went to blackburn. i managed to get a lead testout done so I climbed. there. I think the total was:
18 (1 or 2)
20 (4 or 5)
18 (1 or 2)
20 (4 or 5)
21 (1)
So these are between 10a-10d
So these are between 10a-10d
NOTES:
feels good, but I'm definitely tired and the grades aren't even that high from what I used to climb at Sender One. also, I'm sort of doing an unplanned 36 hour fast. I had dinner yesterday, and was goingt o do my 24, but the climbing went late and might as well just go through with it
25 Feb -- redpoint attempts
30 min warmup (blues purples and greens)
+
hard bouldering (a few red corner attempts)
+
30 move wooden circuit on system wall
5 attempts
1.14 *
+
hard bouldering (a few red corner attempts)
+
30 move wooden circuit on system wall
5 attempts
1.14 *
2. 15
3. 10
4. 10
5. 10
+
prehab cooldown. 3 sets of
-pushup wrist circles (put wrists on ground facing outside and backward and going 5 circles in one direction and 5 in the reverse)
-3 front levers followed by hanging to stretch the back
-heavy kb negatives for elbow tendons (26 kg)
+
prehab cooldown. 3 sets of
-pushup wrist circles (put wrists on ground facing outside and backward and going 5 circles in one direction and 5 in the reverse)
-3 front levers followed by hanging to stretch the back
-heavy kb negatives for elbow tendons (26 kg)
NOTES:
I got 14 the first round because I couldn't find 15 (the label was tucked under and away. Otherwise I feel like I had more energy to move further). But still, progress is progress.
I got 14 the first round because I couldn't find 15 (the label was tucked under and away. Otherwise I feel like I had more energy to move further). But still, progress is progress.
