Jan 2023

 3 Jan -- regular climbing

The last few days were hot and I used my guest pass today to climb with James. Long warmup. I got a red (techincal and slabby, nothing crazy) 3rd try today, probably 4th overall. And worked on two oranges. 

Notes: My right middle finger is hurting a little. Nothing serious right now, it usually hurts more after climbing has finished, but I just need to be careful. Wrist hurts still, but not as bad today

(Taking a week off to recover the finger)

11 Jan -- easy climbing

I've been doing some rehab I found online here. The mobility exercises 2-3 times per day https://theclimbingdoctor.com/rock-climbing-finger-tenosynovitis/
After 8 days of rest, I came to the gym to climb gently and do nothing too strenuous
30 minutes of blues and purples
+
a few greens. I did 2 oranges which weren't really fingery (one was balancy) then tried a balancy red. Nearly flashed it, but I felt a very very slight discomfort in my finger and left.
+
hangboard: 3 sets of 10 second hangs on the large edge and then small edge with 12 kg counterweight. Ended with some slow fist pushups. Maybe to strengthen the wrist

NOTES: all in all, my finger was basically fine. My wrist hurt more. One a green one and then one of the oranges. So I might need to switch to rehab exercists for the wrist

8 Jan - 12 Jan -- annual multiday fast (3.5 days)

It's that time of year where i do my annual 3 day fast. (Described in detail last time, July2022. in short, this interval is for hematopoeitic stem cell rejuvenation)
Fast started after dinner Sunday (8Jan) and broke around noon today (12 Jan)

total time: 86 hours

Fast was broken just as last year: some diluted apple cider vinegar then salt and bone broth. 1.5 horus later some salt on an avocado 3 hours later some beef cubes and brocolli (but I also had some garlic and onions with it). Same thing 4 hours after that first meal.

The first and 2nd day I felt a little weird, mostly somewhat restless legs. This couldn't have been from the fast because I'm accustomed to one day fasts and the first day is no different from usual. I didn't really get hungry except briefly (and not severely) after I climbed on 11 Jan.
I didn't sleep very well the last night. Some noises woke me up and I got up very wide awake and energetic at 3 ish. Tried hard to fall back asleep. 

The strangest thing happened in the morning though. I was feeling a little weak, mildly tingly. My heartrate picked up for about 30 minutes. I drank some electrolyte mix and layed down for a bit. Then I was fine. Took the opportunity to head to the grocery store to grab the groceries. It was a little scary though. Last year I didn't even need electrolyte supplementation, I just drank water. Since the first day I was feeling weird, I'm guessing I might have been sick from something else. I'll see if next year the same thing happens.

15 Jan -- Campus Board #3

20 min warmup *

Campus board

Matching ladders

(B1, L2,R2,L3,R3,L4,R4) (all large edge) 1,3

(B1, R2,L2,R3,L3,R4,L4) (all large edge) 2,4

1 6

2 6

3 6

4 6

Basic ladders 

(B1,L2,R3,L4,R5,L6,B6) (all large edge) 5,7

(B1,R2,L3,R4,L5,R6,B6) (all large edge) 6,8

5 6

6 6

7 6

8 5 <== just missed

____________________ 47/48

NOTES: Near perfect! I moved off the last to the final match on 6, but didn't quite hold. Last time wasn't a fluke afterall. I was hesitant to do this as by finger pain from earlier. But it isn't bothered at all from this exercise. I felt it a little during the warmup. I think it's just lateral movement that might cause the pain. *Short warmup as well because I was in a video call just before and throughout the workout. Also the warmup was essentially playing around on the spray wall (because of the video conference and it was crowded)

18 Jan -- hard bouldering

30 min warmup (purples, blues, some greens)
+
harder bouldering (greens with progresive loading and an orane (one I previously couldn't get)) 
+
hard bouldering
3 attempts with several minutes rest between:

- the same pinchy orange one I've been working on

- my crimpy project on the system wall

NOTES: made a good amount of progress on the system wall. i could do the first 3 moves. Previously I could only do them individually and not link them. It's 5 total moves. Somewhat depenedent on finding better toe chips. But I'm feeling stronger for the first few moves

21 Jan -- Power Endurance
warmup ladders (purples and blues, some greens)

Tried 2 oranges that have (and continue to) shut me down
+
power endurance
6 rnds 2 mins on 4 mins rest
Mostly stayed on this purple route up and down. On the 2nd round I did a blue between the purple attempts, but really, too crowded. I was failing on the last round, first two was like 4 times up and down, next two was like 3. 5th and 6th were 2 or less

24 Jan -- Hard bouldering

~30 min warmup on blues purples and greens
+
work on an orange
+
hard bouldering
-3 attempts on a new slabby crimpy climb. Decently well (then I flashed an adjacent balancy red one)
-4 attempts Same project on the spray wall. I actually added it and graded it about V6. Can't wait to see if it gets climbed)

NOTES: No finger pain, despite both hard climbs being fairly strenuous. I'm now in the habit of eating jello and vitamin C before all climbing workouts to promote recovery (using dried apricots as the vitamin C source). I have many session's worth. Also dried cranberries to follow up

26 Jan -- Power Endurance
warmup ladders (purples and blues, some greens)

+
power endurance
8 rnds 2 mins on 4 mins rest
(actually I did this for the first 4 rounds, then I got inspired), the last ones had
3, 2, 2, 1 minutes. I did 8  round because it was feeling pretty easy

I selected a green route. It was vertical and thin. I was hoping the stimulus would work well. I guess the fact that it relied on feet was good because when I did get tired in the last few rounds, I needed to use my technique, but it didn't drain my forearms as much as I was hoping. I need to select something with more overhang next time. It was a little too easy, thus the reason for extending it by 2 more rounds.

29 Jan -- Campus Board #4

40 min warmup

Campus board

Matching ladders

(B1, L2,R2,L3,R3,L4,R4) (all large edge) 1,3

(B1, R2,L2,R3,L3,R4,L4) (all large edge) 2,4

1 6

2 4

3 6

4 1

Basic ladders 

(B1,L2,R3,L4,R5,L6,B6) (all large edge) 5,7

(B1,R2,L3,R4,L5,R6,B6) (all large edge) 6,8

5 4

6 3

7 4

8 3

____________________ 31/48

NOTES: wow! this took a turn. I took a longer warmup and should have been more thoroughly prepeared, but it didn't pan out well. I was on the phone throughout, but that was the same last time. So I don't know how it could have possibly affected it this time.