Oct 2023

 1 Oct -- Gym climbing

lead climbing with Morgan. Lead blocks:

10b, 10c, 10a, 10a

12a, 10c, 10a

11d(f), 10, 11d (dihedral)

Notes: I suppose this was my first gym 12. Unlike the very very soft 12b dihedral late last month, this was just a soft, vertical 12. The failed 11d of the 3rd block, I had one more clip and then the anchors. Good attempt.

5 Oct -- Gym Climbing

Lead climbing with Sergei (and Micah). Lead blocks:

10c, 10d, 11a

12b(f), 11b(f), 10d

11c, 11d(f), 11a

11d(f), 11a

NOTES: I biked an hour before and after, an hour each for the sake of mitigating carbon emmissions, but it also turned out to be good aerobic training.

10 Oct -- Gym Climbing

Lead climbing with Serge

10b, 10a, 11a

12a(f), 11a, 11b

11c(f), 11c(f), 11a(f)/10d

NOTES: as last time, I biked before and after to meet Sergei at his work in order to get a ride up. The 11a/10d at the end was me trying the 11a and falling, so I continued up an adjacent 10d. Seemed alright as I fell on all of them this round.

12 Oct -- Gym Climbing

Autobelay and TR at lifetime. Didn't pay attention to too many of the grades because they're soft and also done in easier style (i.e. not leading). After trying a few routes, doing a block of 3 on TR, I was on the autobelay going up and down for ~45 minutes.

NOTES: I interviewed for the rockwall job and got an opportunity to go climbing, so I did

13 Oct -- Gym Climbing

Lead blocks with Morgan

10c, 10a, 10b, 11a

12c/12a(f), 11b, 10b

11c (f at top), 10d, 11b => 10b repeat (f)

NOTES:.l the 12c/12a thing was me trying and falling right at the 2nd clip of a 12c and instead heading over to try a 12a. 11b => 10b was similar, except I just continued up the other route. Failed to even complete the 10b the 2nd time anyway

15 Oct -- Gym Climbing

Lead blocks with Serge

10b, 10c, 10d

12a (f), 11b(f), 10b

11d(f), 11b(f), 10c(f)

10c, 10c, 10b

NOTES: did 4 blocks instead of 3 because we had a bit more time. And again, biked before and after for about an hour each, adding to the aerobic load

17 Oct -- Gym Climbing

Lead blocks with Morgan

10b, 10c, 10b

12a(f), 10c, 11a

11a, 11a, 11b(f) => 9

NOTES: yes, failed the 11b and continued up the adjacent 9. The first blocks of 10 were all overhanging. the 2nc block had some overhanging parts and the two 11a's of the last block were everhanging. A little gentle in preparation for climbing in Red Rock in the next few days

Walked ~40 mins before and after to meet Morgan and get a ride to the gym (I suppose that's relevant and counts)

20-22 Oct -- Outdoor climbing.
Red rock Canton:
20 Oct: unimpeachable groping repeat, 7 pitches sport 5.10d
21 Oct: Dark shadows, 4 pitches, trad 5.8
22 Oct: single pitch sport: 10a, 12a, 11b(f), 10c

NOTES: According to the book, this climb in black corridor, "crude control", was 12a. It has been downgraded in mountain project by consensus as 11d, so I'm unsure whether it counts. It has a hard first move leading to basically 5.9 territory for the rest of it. Tenatively, it may be a new grade, but unsure.

25 Oct -- gym climbing

Warup: V2s and wall traverse for ~10 mins
+
blocks of 3:

10a, 10d, 10c

12a(f), 10d, 11a

11c(f), 10c, 11a

+

5 or so attempts on a V6

NOTES: Felt really strong today. Most of the routes were overhanging. Both failed routes were near the top of the routes. Small finger pain in right middle finger I noticed on my last few attempts of the V6 and later in the evening

29 Oct -- SE

Tabata pushups: Tried 12

12-12-12-12-12-12-12-9
= 93