Dec 2024

4 Dec -- Hard bouldering
autobelay warmup (up and down each route 9,10b,10a,10c, 10c, 10d -- failed, too pumped for this last one)
+
alpha wall @25 degrees:
V4 x4
V5
+ a few attempts on other V4s and V5s no success

7 Dec - bouldering

Autobelay warmup
+
some bouldering

NOTES: was gonna do something with the session, but I got pulled out early, so it was really just a warmup then leave

11 Dec -- hard bouldering

Auto belay warmup (up and down)
+
mixed bouldering (some new routes were put up, oe V4 of note, otherwise lower)
+
alpha wall @25 degrees
No sucessfull climbs, tried several V4's and V5s

Notes: I must have climbed all the V4's and V5s I'm cabable of at this angle, There are several that remain though as good long term projects

15 Dec -- power endurance

autobelay warmup (up and down)
+
some V3-V4 boulders
+
2:2 DC up V3, down V2, up V2, down V1, up V3 down V2

NOTES: only sucessfully completed the circuit the first 2 rounds. the 3rd round, I couldn't make it up the 2nd V2. 4th and 5th, couldn't make it up the 2nd V2, so I hung around the V1 for the duration of the time

18 Dec -- endurance

Autobelay up and down
3 sets of 6 routes up and down
5.8, 5.10a, 10b,10a, 9,10b (I think)

So that's 18 u/d or 36 total rounds
~10 mins rest between. 20 mins total

22 Dec -- regular climbing

V0-V6 ladder up

NOTES: new set in the bouldering wall so I proceeded to try and climb all the routes. Could climb all but one last V5

NOTE: as of 23 December, I went in for a hernia surgery and now will not be able to climb or do any other vigorous exercise for about 3 months. Next notes will be in late March or early April I guess :/


I guess as a plus, this gave me an excuse to do my aspiring annual multiday fast.
Last ate dinner the evening of Dec 22nd, surgery was on the 24th. Technically, there was some nutrition when IV glucose was provided. Then I was asked to eat some rice porridge and some wonton soup for breakfast on the 25th. Didn't have another real/big meal until 26th around 2pm (also wontons, pork filled, about 15 in chicken soup). Which was pre-broken with some grapes and a blended apple (apple sauce essentially) a few hours before.

Nov 2024

2 Nov -- power endurance
warmup with repeats of some V4s
+
6 rounds DC 2:2
V3 up, V2 down, traverse, V2 up and down, traverse, V3 up, V2 down

8 Nov -- endurance
45 minutes mostly on the wall cimbing up and down the autobelays somewhat slowly

10 Nov -- bouldering
New set, I attempted to climb out the gym
V4 x 5 (?double check)
V5 x 3
+
some climbs on the alpha wall with the kid

NOTE: one V5 left, otherwise I would have climbed out the gym

16 Nov -- power endurance
Warmup: continuous climb up and down the autobelay routes (10c and 10d I think)
+
progressive bouldering V3-V5
+
DC 2:2
Up V5*, down V2, up V3, down V3, up V2
* too easy, more like V3

20 Nov -- Hard Bouldering (power)
Progressive bouldering warmup
+
V5 - This was the final V5 in the gym this set. It's the first time I've climbed out a gym!
+
alpha board climbing @25 degrees
V3
V4 x2
(+ attempting two other V4s)

23 Nov -- power endurance
autobelay warmup (8 climbs)
+
progressive boulder warmups V3s-V4s + repeat of one V5
+
DC (2:2)
Up V3, down V2, up V3, down V1, up and down V3, up and down V2

Notes: not very good on that last V3 starting from the 3rd round and on. Too pumped, very slopey

27 Nov -- power.... sorta
progresive boulder warmup (including a new V4)
+
alpha board routes @25 degrees
V3x3
V4x2

Notes: kind of a lost opportunity. I was still alphaboarding when I was pulled away to try another route, then the coach reset it and used the area for coaching

30 Nov -- rope climbing
just wanted to do all the new roped routes. Just had a TR partner:
10b,10c, 11a, 10d, 11b, 10b, 10a

Oct 2024

5 Oct - outdoor climbing
warmup on a wall
10a, 11d (f), 12b (TR once then lead 2nd) * I absolutely do not agree with the grading. Both were just 3 move wonders and otherwise were fairly mild. The 12b felt easier than the 11d. I won't count this as an actual new grade. I feel the 11d was really 11c and the 12b was 11b (or easier)
+
two multipitch routes, 10b/c, 3 pitches each

11 Oct - sprints + hard bouldering

As it happened, there was a sports day competiton at school I sompeteded in two 100m sprints (one single event, the other was a 400m relay). Warmed up from this I immediately went climbing
progressive warmup on boulders V2-V4
+
cleared a new V5, (just one climb, a V6 remains to "climb the whole gym")

alpha wall hard clilmbing
20 degrees: V1, V1, V2, V3, V4
25 degrees: V2 + worked a hard one, labeled V4, but maybe V5

19 Oct - power endurance

traverse warmup + a few attempts on a V6
+
power endurance 2:2 DC (up V3, down V3, traverse up V3, traverse out and back on upper end of another V3)

25 Oct - Power (hard bouldering)
Warmup (progressive bouldering) + Doing two of the set V5s
(only left over are two climbs, a V6 and V5)
10 degrees
V2 x1
V3 x7
V4 x 4
V5 x 2



27 Oct - Power (Hard bouldering)
warmup - lautobely up the 10c and 10d then mix. + progressive bouldering including repeat s of some V4 and two of theV5s
plus several climbs up the alpha board between 5 degrees and 30 degrees. Lots of experimenteing

NOTES: spent 5 hours ant the gym, was wiped out and mostly obligated to chat with the little kids and wait around.

Sep 2024

 5 Sep -- indoor project bouldering
almost 2 weeks off because school started up again.
30 min warmup
+ harder boulders V5 (5 times attempt)
+ green V6 project attempt (5 times)

Notes: Fairly close on that V6, especially the first time I felt like I could grab the little holds near the end with so much strength, but each time afterward, my recovery wasn't quite there, as in I still felt like I needed more and my power was being zapped

8 Sep -- indoor project bouldering
w/u: 6 laps up the auto belays + bouldering several V2-V4
+
green V6 project boulder (6 attetmpts + a few top only tries). 

Notes: Today was the last day to try the project before it gets taken down. Good effort, but not enough time to get through the top crux before it's taken down

11 Sep -- indoor comp
Climb for score:
V1 x4
V2 x8
V3 x8
V4 x4
V5 x2
__________ 70/81
Notes: Accidentally joined a comp. I was just planning on climbing that evening. The remaining two were 1 V5 and 1 V6. I actually got really close on the V5. Touching the last hold but not controlling. UPDATE: got 1st in the comp. Though it was a small group of amateur competitors.

15 Sep -- power
Warmup on autobelays 6 routes backto back: 10a, 10b, 10c, 10d, 10c, 10d
+
some boulder warmups V2-V4
+
alpha board
10 degrees:
V1
V2 x2
V3 x3
20 degrees:
V3 x3    <---- these were all labeled as V4 but I didn't think they were so I downgraded
V4 x2
25 degrees:
Tried 3 V5's didn't get any

21 Sep -- power endurance
Wamup autobelays back to back (10c,10d,10c,10d,10a,10b)
+
boulder warmups
+
6 rnds (2:2 DC)

27 Sep -- regular bouldeirng
Warmup autobelays back to back (TBD grades backfill)
+
boulder warmups
+
repeat V4s and try the last V5 in the gym

NOTES: felt very weak and languid today. Started feeling alert during the last few climbs, but I still knew I wasn't at full power, as one of the V4s I flashed previously took several tries. Left early.

30 Sep -- indoor lead
Warmup autobelays back to back (TBD grades backfill)
+
2 leads on 5.11a (Made the first, fell on the 2nd. After 2 tries at this crux, finished to the top)

Aug 2024

3 Aug - easy climbing
Hanging out with kids, climbed a few autobelay routes





6 Aug - climbing
New set so warmup V2-V4, tried A V5 and V6, no luck





8 Aug - power Endurance
warmup V2-V3
+
Work on V6 (got it after 3 tries)
+
power endurance:
6 rounds (up/down V1, up V3, down V2, upV3, down, up V3)
DC 2:2




12 Aug - regular climbing
Planned for this to be a hard session, but I ran into too many kids and spent much of the day making sure they didn't fall and break something. Fortunately we were in the bouldering area so I did get the opportunity to try a few routes in between their climbs including that remaining V6




16 Aug - double day
Session 1: Bouldering
Warmuped up and worked on several probelms up to V4, Made a good attempt on the remaining V6. Then worked on the training board a V3 at the 30 degree angle. It's a new project
+
Roped climbing in the evening (after a few hours break)
I fell on ALL of the climbs, perhaps the double day wasn't very beneficial, however the routes did feel extra hard as if the setters were inspired by the recent olympic games and made these routes with cruxy headwalls because I was falling at the end of all of them (11c, 11b, 10d, 10c, 10b, 10b) made just the final 10a and even that was a little bit difficult.




17 Aug - roped climbing and lead test
Easy climbing. Better after rest. Tried the 10c twice, each time falling just at the end which is much better than last night's try. And did a 10d and 10c no problem.

Notes: starting to feel some elbow tendonitis



18 Aug - Bouldering
warmup on autobelays then climbed in the bouldering area
(Repeated V6 and tried the other Green V6, made moves until the end before falling)
+
tabata pushups: 12-12-12-12-12-12-12-7

NOTE: elbow pain, hence the puhsups





23 Aug - Power
Warmup on boulder problems up to V4
+
routes on the alpha board
10 degrees: V0, V1 (x2), V2, V3 (x3), V4 
15 degrees: V0 (x2) ,  V3(x3), V4 (x5)

25 Aug - outdoor climbing Baihe
Lead a 5.9 to warmup then was sandbagged on an 11c. Spent the rest of the day trying a 12b (2x) and a different 11c (2x). Not many opportunities as we were a group of 4 with 1 rope and I forgot my harness

Jul 2024

6 Jul - indoor climbing
Mostly easy roped stuff



 


14 Jul - indoor climbing
warmup on autobelays. Did a few speed runs up various routes 20-30 seconds for each. Then bouldering. Tried some routes on the training board tried some V2-V4s all flashed (10 degree angle). Most the V4's were soft, so I downgraded my opinion to V2. Tried one V5 ~4 times that was hard and didn't complete. Marked as a project




18 Jul - Outdoor climbing  --- TO BE CONTINUED -------
FIRST OUTDOOR CLIMBING IN CHINA! 
Paid to get taken out with guides and a small group. Climbed a total of 5 routes though:
lead 10a
TR 10c
lead (fell hung) 10d
lead 10d
TR 10d (didn't make last move)




21 Jul - easy climbing
Mostly just climbing on the roped routes and talking with the kids. Somewhat aerobic





25 Jul - indoor bouldering
Warmup on various climbs, tried a V6 (no success), but flashed a V4 that I couldn't finish before, then training on the alpha board

3 V4s on the 15 degree wall

27 Jul - easy climbing
kids
+
tabta pushups: 12-12-12-12-12-12-12-7






28 Jul - impromptu aerobic energy system training
Went to a school's climbing gym, newly built. After trying each of the routes (hardest being a moderate gym 10), I then spent about half an hour climbing up and down several routes on autobelays for aerobic capacity training

Jun 2024

 2 Jun -- Hard bouldering

Long warmup of downclimbing several routes V2-V4
+
hard bouldering: worked on a V6: Made some progress compared to the first time I tried it

NOTES: a few shoulder tweaks, particularly when a foot slipped and suddenly loaded my shoulder, but a little less than last time

8 Jun -- Hard bouldering

Long warmup climbing V2-V4
+
hard bouldering: V6 - No new progress, just made about 5 attempts on it
                           V5 - IMO harder than the V6. Working on making the first move
                                    (couldn't hold the starting holds before)

NOTES: Shoulder still bothering, no significant tweaks








15 Jun -- easy climbing

Hanging with kids and climbing on the autobelays










22 Jun -- easy climbing

Talking and hanging with kids, climbing some ropes and some boulders






24 Jun -- roped climbing

Climbed with that guy again, we did all the routes, 11b, 11a, 10b, 10c, 10a, 10d, 10a plus many routes on the autobelays otherwise




30 Jun -- hard bouldering

warmups then several hard climbs on the alpha board
V1x4
V2x2
V3
V4x21 half flashed, half 2nd go

May 2024

 1 May -- Indoor bouldering
Just regular climbing, no plan for the day. Did some warmup stuff then hopped on a few V4-V5 graded things.

Note: First time in 2 months where I have been able to climb since I only recently got the ability to pay in China uisng their WeChat pay system and use public transport and all that

3 May -- Indoor bouldering
warmup with some laps on an autobelay
+
progressively harder bouldering
V0- ~10
V1 ~10
V2 ~8
V3 ~ 8
V4  6
V5 2

NOTES: Intention was to do some light climbing to recover but I ended up tearing some fingers. The reason was because they had a promo where a month pass would up to 40% off depending on  how any climbs of each grade you do according to this chart. So I climbed hard







6 May -- indoor autobelay+TR
autobelay: no break:   8,9,8,9,10a.10b.10a.10b,10a,10b
+
TR: 11b, 10b, 11b, 10b(f)

NOTES: Mostly a recovery day. Also: had an amazing experience meeting two guys at the gym, we had a 2-3 hour conversation drinking tea and speaking Chinese

13 May -- power endurance
Warmup boulder ladders
+
6 rounds 2:4 DC up V3, down V2, Up V3, down V1, Up V3 down V1








18 May -- indoor bouldering
Last of the old routes, before the new set comes in. No progress I don't think







19 May -- indoor bouldering

Longish warmup on the autobelays
New set. Tried every route V0-V5
NOTES: Went with Ember, so it was more of a relaxing show-off day

27 May -- indoor bouldering
warmup on autobelay (6 laps)
+
bouldering
+
tried a bunch of v0s and V1s on the training board

NOTES: My left shoulder has been bothering me a lot recently. Need to do something about it before it becomes a bigger issue

Apr 2024

 6 Apr
500 Pushups for time
(+100 horizontal rows)
-----------------------------------1:16:49

Notes: Actually I also did 100 bar rows. I did 50 pushups in sets of 10, then 10 rows between each. Should have done more because they were pretty easy. Still kind of stuck on school campus without a climbing gym access yet, so these will have to do.

14 Apr
Sprints + horizontal rows

sprints: 8 rounds 30s on + 60 s walking
horizontal rows - tabata style but 10 rounds: 10-10-10-10-8-6-6-5-6-5

NOTES: aimed for 90% max effort on sprints, was supposed to do 90s rest, but I misread the workout I found online. So after the 4th round, I was already quite tired

21 Apr

1/2 mile run (~2:50)
Every min on minute pullups (9 rounds + 7)
Every min on minute dips (9rounda + 8)
1/2 mile run (~3:00)

Mar 2024

 As mentioned previously. I moved to China. the ability to exercise, let alone climb has been effectively nothing. 



23 Mar
Modified half Murph

1/2 mile  ~ 3:30
+
50 pullups
50 dips
75 leg lefts (from dip bar, front, left, right)  ~18:30
+
1/2 mile  ~4:00
_____________________________26:01

(divided as  5 rounds of 10, 10, 15)


NOTES: Very bad, in the middle. Even the 3rd round, I was doing 5 pullups then resting. On the last 2, I was more or less 1 repping. Also, quite sore even 4 days later (this is being backlogged on the 27th due to VPN issues)

Feb 2024

 4 Feb - Blocks

10a, 10d, 10d
12a,11b(f), 10c
12c,11b(f),10c

6 Feb - Blocks

10a, 10c, 10d
12a, 11b, 11b
11c(f), 11a, 10d

13 Feb - Blocks

10c, 10d, 11a
12c(f), 11a, 11a
12a(f), 11b(f), 10d
TR 11c



LEFT FOR CHINA 20 Feb, the above was backfilled so I don't have specific notes. eg. 4 Feb I have no idea how I did a 12c.

Jan 2024

(Lots of unlisted climbing while working at lifetime's rockwall. The grades don't quite match up well with sender one's climbs)




16 Jan -- indoor climbing
blocks
10b, 10c, 10d
11d, 11a(f), 10c
TR: 12b, 10d, offhand crack

NOTE: the last round of TR was 2 dihedral climbs (which is yet again why I did a 12b so casually). Finished on the hand crack just because I was tied in and it made sense

26 Jan -- indoor climbing
blocks
10a, 10c, 10d
12b(f), 11b(f), 10c
11a, 11b(f), 10a

NOTES: Same 11b in block 2 and 3. It's vertical and balancy, but was so pumped at the top