1 May -- Indoor bouldering
Just regular climbing, no plan for the day. Did some warmup stuff then hopped on a few V4-V5 graded things.
Note: First time in 2 months where I have been able to climb since I only recently got the ability to pay in China uisng their WeChat pay system and use public transport and all that
3 May -- Indoor bouldering
warmup with some laps on an autobelay
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progressively harder bouldering
V0- ~10
V1 ~10
V2 ~8
V3 ~ 8
V4 6
V5 2
NOTES: Intention was to do some light climbing to recover but I ended up tearing some fingers. The reason was because they had a promo where a month pass would up to 40% off depending on how any climbs of each grade you do according to this chart. So I climbed hard
6 May -- indoor autobelay+TR
autobelay: no break: 8,9,8,9,10a.10b.10a.10b,10a,10b
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TR: 11b, 10b, 11b, 10b(f)
NOTES: Mostly a recovery day. Also: had an amazing experience meeting two guys at the gym, we had a 2-3 hour conversation drinking tea and speaking Chinese
13 May -- power endurance
Warmup boulder ladders
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6 rounds 2:4 DC up V3, down V2, Up V3, down V1, Up V3 down V1
18 May -- indoor bouldering
Last of the old routes, before the new set comes in. No progress I don't think
19 May -- indoor bouldering
Longish warmup on the autobelays
New set. Tried every route V0-V5
NOTES: Went with Ember, so it was more of a relaxing show-off day
27 May -- indoor bouldering
warmup on autobelay (6 laps)
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bouldering
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tried a bunch of v0s and V1s on the training board
NOTES: My left shoulder has been bothering me a lot recently. Need to do something about it before it becomes a bigger issue