Thursday, August 8, 2024

Aug 2024

3 Aug - easy climbing
Hanging out with kids, climbed a few autobelay routes





6 Aug - climbing
New set so warmup V2-V4, tried A V5 and V6, no luck





8 Aug - power Endurance
warmup V2-V3
+
Work on V6 (got it after 3 tries)
+
power endurance:
6 rounds (up/down V1, up V3, down V2, upV3, down, up V3)
DC 2:2




12 Aug - regular climbing
Planned for this to be a hard session, but I ran into too many kids and spent much of the day making sure they didn't fall and break something. Fortunately we were in the bouldering area so I did get the opportunity to try a few routes in between their climbs including that remaining V6




16 Aug - double day
Session 1: Bouldering
Warmuped up and worked on several probelms up to V4, Made a good attempt on the remaining V6. Then worked on the training board a V3 at the 30 degree angle. It's a new project
+
Roped climbing in the evening (after a few hours break)
I fell on ALL of the climbs, perhaps the double day wasn't very beneficial, however the routes did feel extra hard as if the setters were inspired by the recent olympic games and made these routes with cruxy headwalls because I was falling at the end of all of them (11c, 11b, 10d, 10c, 10b, 10b) made just the final 10a and even that was a little bit difficult.




17 Aug - roped climbing and lead test
Easy climbing. Better after rest. Tried the 10c twice, each time falling just at the end which is much better than last night's try. And did a 10d and 10c no problem.

Notes: starting to feel some elbow tendonitis



18 Aug - Bouldering
warmup on autobelays then climbed in the bouldering area
(Repeated V6 and tried the other Green V6, made moves until the end before falling)
+
tabata pushups: 12-12-12-12-12-12-12-7

NOTE: elbow pain, hence the puhsups





23 Aug - Power
Warmup on boulder problems up to V4
+
routes on the alpha board
10 degrees: V0, V1 (x2), V2, V3 (x3), V4 
15 degrees: V0 (x2) ,  V3(x3), V4 (x5)





25 Aug - outdoor climbing Baihe
Lead a 5.9 to warmup then was sandbagged on an 11c. Spent the rest of the day trying a 12b (2x) and a different 11c (2x). Not many opportunities as we were a group of 4 with 1 rope and I forgot my harness