2 Apr -- power endurance
warmup: ~20 mins on the bouldering wall (vertical) non-stop traversing/ climbing in Ws
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A few V3s and V4s
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V5 (the one I struggled with last time, I 1st go'd it today.*
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5 rounds 2:2 DC
V4 up, V3 down, V3 up, V0 down, Mix V2/3 up, V1 down
NOTES: *The V5 wasn't smooth at the end, but I held it together. Will try to smoothen it out and hold it together. The main workout was pretty good, wall was slightly overhanging in th first 4 and vertical in the last 2. Surprised at how well controlled it was even at the last round
5 Apr -- bad climbing
Intended to do some bouldering, warmed up to a V4, worked on two V5's, but then suddenly, I got this cramp in my upper mid back (slightly to the right of center). Any amount of squeezing was just a bit too painful. So I left.
NOTES: maybe as a result of seeing random facebook ads show up, I saw some videos of "movement by david" encouraging you to "stay flexy" and given today's "incident", it inspired me to do some sitting on the floor, random (and weird) stretching. Moving my spine like a snake, putting my feet up on a chair in a sort of "raised feet crab walk pose". I might do some more of this several times a day. Gotta stay youthfully flexible.
9 Apr -- endurance
Short session, up and down each route on each autobelay, this time starting from the middle, then the easier ones to "rest a bit" before trying the last ones. No success on the down climb of the 10d (no help from an early fall and restart), but the 10c shortly after yes.
12 Apr -- power
Warumup: random traversing and bouldering to V3
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alpha wall @50 degrees
V1
V2 x 6
V3
+ several attempts on several V4s, quite hard
NOTES: At first I felt that middle back/neck pain on even simple warmups, but it went away though fortunately, at least it didn't hurt when I was trying the alpha wall. I feel the pressure though still now.
16 Apr -- endurance
On autobelay continuous other than switching times (represented with comma), a - means immediate. Up then down unless otherwise noted
8 - 9, 10a - 9, 10c -10b
rest 5-10 mins
10b U - 10c D - 10c U - 10b D, 9U - 8 D - 8U - 9D, 9U - 10a D - 10a U - 9 D
NOTES: in total, counting the down pitches, it's 24 pitches for about two 12-pitch rounds. Though it was tiring, felt nearly power-endurancy at times. Definitely above around the aerobic limit
19 Apr -- some bouldering
Not a lot of focus today because I was hanging out with the kid. Warmed up, then worked on a V5 which has a big dyno in the beginning followed by powerful pinchy volumes. I did better today than last week because 3 of the 4 times I tried, I could catch the dyno
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Swimming
Mostly enjoyable, But I did 1 round of 5 minutes continuous. I did 5 laps in those 5 minutes.
24 Apr -- power
Warmup: 20 minutes spread betweeen traversing the alpha wall @8 degrees and the vertical wall to the side
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alpha wall @20:
several attempts over 30 minutes on 2 hard problems. No success on either
(listed actually as V3 but it felt like V5/6)
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flashing cooldown routes @20 on alpha wall:
V3
V2x10
V1x2
NOTES: I'm not sure if the routes set at the 20 degree are hard or if I'm weak today. I did V2s and 3s less than 2 weeks ago on the 50 degree angle.
26 -- regular bouldering
warmup new V1-V3's up and down, plus some V4's
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sampling all the V5's, a V6 and V7 (flashed one V5 because it was slabby)