1 May - endurance
On autobelay continuous other than switching times (represented with comma), a - means immediate. Up then down unless otherwise noted
8 - 9, 10a - 9, 10c -10b
rest 10 mins
10b U - 10c D - 10c U - 10b D, 9U - 8 D - 8U - 9D, 9U - 10a D - 10a U - 9 D
NOTE: I did this on 16 Apr as well. Felt a bit easier this time. i.e. I wasn't fully wiped from the 2nd round after the wall with the 10s
3 May - Power
W/U: 20 min traversing + several V2,V3 climbs
+
alpha wall
@10
V2 x3
V3 x 3
V4 x 2 <--- one of these was really hard
@15
V1
V2 x2
V4 x4
5 May - regular climbing
w/u: 20 min traversing + various climbs up V4
+
V5 projects
Attempted 3, got 1
7 May - power endurance
w/u: 4 laps up and down autobelay (10a,b)
+
various attempts on V4-V5 (two new V4's sucessful)
+
power endurance (5 rounds) DC 2:2
up V4, down VB, up V3, down V0, up V3, down V0, shake out on undercling until timer
NOTES: almost all rounds successful except for a slip on the V4 during the 4th round
10 May - outdoor climbing
Multipitch - BaiHe.
2 routes:
(二零一二)------ 6p (5.8-5.9)
(青龙) ---------- 8p (9,10a,0,101,9,10b,+2 pitches 4th class)
NOTES: left my phone basically up the mountain, so after the hike down, I had to hike back up then down
11 May - Regular climbing
~20 mins warmup boulder ladders V2-V3
+
V5 attempts - 3 sucessful!
NOTES: These 3 climbs I failed each previously. two had a dynamic start component, I essentially flashed or 2nd go'd them once I landed the dynamic component. The other I flashed. (I flashed for the day, technically not a flash because I had tried previously)
14 May -- hard bouldering
~20 min warmup V1-V3 + some new V4
+
alpha wall
@0
V0 x 2
V1 x 7
V2 x 1
V3 x 2
@30
V1
V3 x 2
V4 x 3
NOTES: Started out really, really tired. Even after I finished warming up, I thought the day was gonna be over real fast. But after starting the alpha board training and needing to squeeze hard, my spirit picked up
17 May -- power endurance
new protocol: 30-30s
(set the alpha wall, climb for 30 seconds on fast and intense climbing, like a quasi-sprint, and 30 seconds off resting for several rounds)
warmup - 20 mins wall traversing + various V2-V3 warmups
+
30-30's on alpha wall
@15. 4 rounds 30-30
NOTES: was aiming for 6 rounds, but my right right finger (PIP, more towards pinky end) was hurting a bit, so I called it after the 4thround. I actually felt it a little during the warmup.
21 May -- rope climbing
warmup:
nearly constant UD 4 routes 5.8-5.10a
+
mix of lead and TR climbing
10c,10b, 11a(TR, fail, quite hard), 10c, 10d(TR)
NOTES: PIP pain felt a little during warmup and after the 11a attempt. Felt much better than last time for sure
24 May -- bouldering
warmup: progressive w/u V1-V3
+
V4 x 6
V5 x 1
NOTES: No pain at all on my right ring PIP. Small pain in my thumb's join, but probably not a big deal
28 May -- TR and autobelay
nearly constant UD 4 routes 5.8-5.10a
+
10c UD (failed at end of down climb), 10b U
+
TR climbing
10c,10b (back to back)
two 10a-ish climbs back to back) (ish because created on the spot by combining portions of different climbs
NOTES: actually maybe the thumb pain was a big deal, I felt it over the intervening rest days. Also in my ring index PIP both on right hand. Thus today I did the lighter session to get blood flow and steer clear of max effort moves