1 Jun -- ARC
4 rounds:
20m, 15m, 15m, 10m
NOTES: some finger pain over the previous days. No pain today during climb, but a bit of soreness afterwards. Ended 10 m on the last round because I tore a flapper :[
4 Jun -- light climbing
warmup: traversing on boulder wall
+
10c UD, 10b UD, rest, 10aUD,9UD, 9UD, 8UD
14 Jun -- light bouldering
1 hour working up to some V3's and a few V4's (including a new one. Balancy, flash)
+
10c UD, 10b UD
11 Jun -- power (moderate)
Alpha wall climbing
@10
V0 x 2
V1 x 7
V2 x 6
V3 x 1
@15
V2 x 1
V3 x 1
V4 x 1
NOTES: fairly successful. No major tweaks. Mostly the pain in the last few days was in the right index PIP. I think it's getting better each time.
15 Jun -- bouldering (moderate)
20-30 min warmup climbing various V1-V3
+
V4 attempts (2 new, successful)
V5 attempts (last move stuck)
18 Jun -- aerobic endurance
3 rounds of mostly constant climbing up then down (UD) on autobelays:
5.8 UD, 5.9 UD, 10c UD
10c UD, 10b UD
10a UD, 10b UD, 10b UD
Notes: right index gradually improving
21 Jun -- bouldering
New set
V1-V3 warmups
+
V4 x ?? 4 ??
V5 x ?? 3??
26 Jun -- bouldering
Autobelay w/u:
5.9 UD, 10c UD, 5.9 UD
10b UD, 10a UD, 5.8 UD
+
V3-V5
V4 x 4 (one new)
V5 x3
29 Jun -- endurance
Autobelay only:
5.9 UD, 10c UD, 5.9 UD
10b UD, 10a UD, 5.8 UD
10c UD, 10b UD, 10a UD, 5.9 UD, 5.9 UD, 5.8 UD
Notes: finger still hurts