28 Aug -4 Sep
went to Rockreation every day for 1.5-2 hours (Mikayla got us a groupon). On 3 sep, did 3 rnds of 10 mins on, 10 mins off
6 Sep
SenderOne with Morgan
did 4x4s
1st round: 10c, 10a, 10c, 10a
2nd round: 11b*, 10a, 10c, 10a
3rd round: 11a (hung, but finished to the top), 10b, 10c, 10c
* First 11b succesfully at Sender (or indoors, or ever I believe)
10 Sep
Climbed in Wheeler gorge. New place, 6 total climbs completed (only 4 formally, the first two we did easier variations of the actual route)
20 Sep
Climbed in El Cajon (hour long approach took 2.5 hours due to going to wrong mountain. Had to bushwack it over to el cajon [ from 'the toe' area to 'the wedge' area] Did a 4 pitch 5.8 multi, then a 5.8 route. Tried and fell on a slick 10b... long day. Feeling in a slump again... I should be able to do 10b... slick or not, that's no excuse. Gotta get back into training hard.
22 Sep
Back to UCSB. Bouldered for an hour and a half or so. Then did a Farmers walk with 2 100lb dBs and tried a single max set of pullups (13 :/ lame... )
I just ordered "The Rock Climber's Training Manual". I've been at a plateau for a long time. I need some structured training... let's see how this goes
23 Sep
Can't wait to start RCTM stuff. Since I bouldered yesterday though, I'm just going to do some of my old HB routine
Hangboard
Set 1
Position 4 5 S
1 F (2 seconds in... I knew it was gonna happen)
Set 2
Position 4 1 S
1 F (last second!)
Position 1 3 S
1 F (last 2 seconds)
Notes: Boring/regular warmup. Decent first set. Don't know why my 2nd was so bad. But I guess it means I've got good hold choices. It's cooler now, so no excuses from the heat. I suppose I can use this workout as a benchmark for checking how RCTM helps improve
24 Sep
ARCing at School's auto-belay's (Can't wait for that book to come in!!!)
3 rnds 10 mins on, 10 mins off. Unless otherwise noted, I climbed up then downclimbed the same route. Here was the route breakdown:
1: 9, 10a, 8, 10? x2 ( failed on up climb a few moves in both attempts), 8
2: 9 x2, 8, ? (felt 8), 8 (timer went off shortly after starting, I climbed down what I had done)
3: 10b, 9+ (both felt easy, wall must have been too vertical so I moved on), 9, 8 x2.5 (fell before topping on 1st try, so remaining two were up and downs to the point I fell from)
tabata pushups (15,15,15,15,12,6,7,3)
3 sets 50 extensions (light blue band)
26 Sep
ARCing
3 rnds 10 mins on, 10 mins off:
1: 10?, 8, 10b(fall 10 feet in), 8, 9+
2: 9 x2, 10b (fell), 10 (up and down 3/4 of the way... the route wasn't supposed to be for autobelay), 8 x 2.5 (first time all the way up and down, 2nd time fell on down climb, 3rd time climbed up and down from point of fall)
3: 10b, 8, 8+, 8 (fell), 8
3 sets 50 extensions (light blue band)
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