1/1/2021
NEW SPORT GRADE!
Climbed Raindbow drive 5.11d in New Jack city. 2nd go of the day. Probably soft in retrospect, but I'll take it. Bouldery start felt easier than last year, holding it together for the rest (and the 2nd crux) was hard.
6 Jan -- Hangboard #6
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-20)
3 ----------------- 6S (-30)
4 ----------------- 4S-5-5 (-50)
5 ----------------- 3S-9-5-5 (-37.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-25)
7 ----------------- 4S-8-6 (-47.5)
8 ----------------- 4S-6-5 (-30)
9 ----------------- 4S-5-5 (-37.5)
2 ----------------- 6S (-20)
3 ----------------- 6S (-30)
4 ----------------- 4S-5-5 (-50)
5 ----------------- 3S-9-5-5 (-37.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-25)
7 ----------------- 4S-8-6 (-47.5)
8 ----------------- 4S-6-5 (-30)
9 ----------------- 4S-5-5 (-37.5)
+
supplemental exercises
3 sets
-5+5 one arm ring rows
-20 second L-sits
-5 very slow pushups (raised feet and on paralletes)
-5 very slow pushups (raised feet and on paralletes)
10 Jan -- Outdoor bouldering
Climbed in the Crystal Skull, worked and eventually got a V2 -- "Mantelzuma's revenge" Probable my hardest actual ourdoor boulder so far, worked it for about an hour
13 Jan -- Hangboard #7
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-20)
3 ----------------- 6S (-30)
4 ----------------- 4S-6-5 (-50)
5 ----------------- 4S-8-4 (-37.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-25) -------- drop next time
7 ----------------- 4S-9-4 (-47.5)
8 ----------------- 4S-6-7 (-30)
9 ----------------- 4S-7-6 (-37.5)
2 ----------------- 6S (-20)
3 ----------------- 6S (-30)
4 ----------------- 4S-6-5 (-50)
5 ----------------- 4S-8-4 (-37.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-25) -------- drop next time
7 ----------------- 4S-9-4 (-47.5)
8 ----------------- 4S-6-7 (-30)
9 ----------------- 4S-7-6 (-37.5)
+
supplemental exercises
3 sets
-5+5 one arm ring rows + 5lbs
-20 second L-sits
-20 second L-sits
-5 very slow pushups (raised feet and on paralletes)
NOTES: moderate improvement. Part of the problem is once per week isn't good at gaining strength. Surpised though, after the success with the boulder problem, I figured there would have been a little more improvement.
NOTES: moderate improvement. Part of the problem is once per week isn't good at gaining strength. Surpised though, after the success with the boulder problem, I figured there would have been a little more improvement.
18 Jan -- power endurance
3rd day in a row climbing with Pavel. Finished over at Seth and Sabrah's. They have an outdoor bouldering wall. I went up some white route, came down and rested on a black jug then traversed up and left. 4 rounds. Didn't time it, but interestingly I completed on the 4th and final round
23 Jan -- power endurance
Nothing new and usually I don't log these sessions. But I got a Josh V1 (roof mantle). But I want to start doing fewer climbs (mostly I just have V-easy and some gimme V0's, I need to start building my pyramid with V1s and V2s)
+
Interceptor rock - The orbitor V3
4 rounds of 1:2 work:rest (about 2.5 mins to complete "an orbit"*)
*I've not finished this climb, it's a V3 the one final section is tough
31 Jan -- power endurance
Gingerly worked a little of the pigpen (V4), almost got a full link up to the no-hands rest. Practiced the exit move, separately.
Interceptor rock - The orbitor V3
4 rounds of 1:2 work:rest (about 2.5 mins to complete "an orbit"*)
+
Supplemental exercise:
Elbow pain so I did 3 sets
5+5 slow dumbell lowers (40lbs)
Nothing new and usually I don't log these sessions. But I got a Josh V1 (roof mantle). But I want to start doing fewer climbs (mostly I just have V-easy and some gimme V0's, I need to start building my pyramid with V1s and V2s)
+
Interceptor rock - The orbitor V3
4 rounds of 1:2 work:rest (about 2.5 mins to complete "an orbit"*)
*I've not finished this climb, it's a V3 the one final section is tough
31 Jan -- power endurance
Gingerly worked a little of the pigpen (V4), almost got a full link up to the no-hands rest. Practiced the exit move, separately.
Interceptor rock - The orbitor V3
4 rounds of 1:2 work:rest (about 2.5 mins to complete "an orbit"*)
+
Supplemental exercise:
Elbow pain so I did 3 sets
5+5 slow dumbell lowers (40lbs)