Monday, May 3, 2021

May 2021

1 May - outdoor bouldering (power)

Did a V0+ and a V1-, the 0+ on the zarmog boulder I actually tried in the winter and couldn't get it, so I'm happy that later, in the sun and heat I managed to get it. Improvement! I also scoped out planetX and found a challenging, but doable V2 traverse (by the satellite boulder) which may be a new project



2 May - outdoor bouldering (power endurance)

Did a V1 and V2:
V1 - false hueco, first time on the rock, got it in 3-4 tries. Tried the traverse after and did ok, but I don't think the pockets and angle and all together were stable enough
V2 - bulgemaster - climbed with a cool group of people, we tried this, I unlocked the sequence after 4 goes and even started a little lower to ensure I wasn't "cheating"
+
Ended the day with 5 sets of 1:2 work:rest on gunsmoke traverse and I believe I got further than ever on the 1st attempt (to about where the first ground rock is). Then I jumped on the chube. The people that were there were not even trying to spot, so I didn't have the confidence to pull the topout, but it felt much easier than my first try during my first time back in Oct/Nov

NOTES: happy to get a V1 and V2 that weren't gimme's as well as the improvement in gunsmoke and chube. Clear improvement!


5May -- Max Hangs Hangboard #4

1 ----------------- 2S
2 ----------------- 2S (+5) -- keep, tweaky
3 ----------------- 2S (+10)
4 ----------------- 2S (-35) -- keep, left hand pain
5 ----------------- 2S (-15) -- keep tweaky
6 ----------------- 2S (+17.5)
7 ----------------- 2S (-32.5)  -- not bad, but maybe keep for pinch consistency
8 ----------------- 2S (+7.5) -- easy
9 ----------------- 2S (0) i.e. BW - easy




12May -- Max Hangs Hangboard #5

1 ----------------- 2S
2 ----------------- 2S (+5)
3 ----------------- 2S (+10)
4 ----------------- 2S (-35)
5 ----------------- 2S (-15)
6 ----------------- 2S (+17.5)
7 ----------------- 2S (-32.5)
8 ----------------- 2S (+10)
9 ----------------- 2S (+2.5)

NOTES: ~82F at 8:30 am. Most "worrisome grip" was the pinches because of the strain, but I"m ready to up the weight next time


15 - 16 May -- outdoor climbing. 
Not much because Morgan, Erica, Ryan, Hillary and their kids came. Saturday got some bouldering in, managed to hold the first move on the V2 in campfire boulder, as well as hold the 2nd. Thought I did the V3 traverse on pixie boulder, but the guidebook makes it clear I need to stay along the lip until further down. Sunday did a Josh 10a sport (probably soft)


19May -- Max Hangs Hangboard #6

1 ----------------- 2S
2 ----------------- 2S (+7.5)
3 ----------------- 2S (+12.5)
4 ----------------- 2S (-30) -- accidentally jumped by 5
5 ----------------- 2S (-12.5)
6 ----------------- 2S (+20)
7 ----------------- 2S (-30)
8 ----------------- 2S (+12.5)
9 ----------------- 2S (+5)

NOTES: ~81F at 9 am. Can feel the left hand pain during the warmup and only when I'm squeezing a shirt or something narrow (not like a crimp, but like a flat-fingered pinch). Barely noticeable during the actual pinches


21May -- outdoor bouldering
Taking advantage of cool weather to climb now instead of waiting until the weekend and it was a good choice!
Got this V1 in echo Tee, the one that began with moving off two wide pinches. I think the hangboarding really came in handy because I was able to hold them solidly compared to my first attempt back in early March. Also did a soft V1 and V2 in jacksonville (near the inquisition block)


22May --Got the False Hueco Traverse (V2) first go today (I failed it last time when I tried it on May 2nd). Also made some progress with the upper crack on pigpen

23 May power endurance.
Did 2 sport routes with Morgan (one was a soft 10a). Then I did the indian cove 5 sets of 1:1 work rest (approximately, I left my phone in my car so I couldn't explicitely time it)



29May -- bouldering
Got a V2 (Way of the Weasel) in the meadows boulder. It was a one-move-wonder type of climb, but tood many tries. Then I worked on the V2 out in planet X. I was able to do it in 3 distinct sections, now it's all about linking and brunting through the pain

30May -- outdoor sport
short day, a warmup climb then 2 attempts on a J-tree 11 (gravity rail) Morgan did very well, getting to the 4th bolt on his 1st go, then the 5th on the next. I, by contrast, got to the 2nd then 3rd respectively.

31May -- outdoor bouldering
Really just got a V1, found a V3 project in the shade which connects to a desperate wide handcrack finish. Finished the day doing power endurance on gunsmoke. This time, different from the other attempts, I just continued on from where I fell in the previous burn. Didn't make it all the way back in my 5 attmpts (ranging from ~ 1:15-1:45 each 1:2 duty cycle)