1 Sep -- Power endurance
20-30 mins warmup
+
hard bouldering - some oranges, not success on any of them. The newest set is pretty difficult
+
6 rnds linked bouldering circuit
2:4 work rest
Avoided the system wall and instead went to the same overhang wall as last time with a green and purple climb:
1st round completely fair. 2nd and 3rd I hopped off breifly at the bottom. For the reamaining, I managed to stay on for the first and 2nd climbs (green them purple) I also ended the remaining 30 seconds or so on a slight overhanging yellow as last time, but less time as before
NOTES: Compared to the last session, I was able to complete at least 2 climbs (though with some brief stepping off the wall). Definitely an improvement
4 Sep -- limit bouldering
30 min warmup
+
hard bouldering - hard green, repeated an orange I was having trouble with, first go
+
limit bouldering
worked a new red a few times + worked my 3 move problem on the system wall. Did worse than last time I tried. It's still pretty difficult
Notes: didn't feel that good of a day. Felt like I regressed a bit
8 Sep -- power endurance
30 min warmup
+
hard bouldering - greens, they're hard enough on the current set.
+
6 rnds linked bouldering circuit
The wall I used last time is being reset, so I went to a different wall it had a purple and yellow on an overhang. I thought it would be easier, the first round felt like it, but I definitely got a very, very deep pump. round breakdown:
(p = purple up, P = purple up and down, y = yellow up, Y = yellow up then down)
1 P-Y-P
2 P-Y-p*
3 P-Y-y
4 P-y*
5 P-y*
6 P-y*
* Route not finished. either ran the clock out trying to rest and depump as best as possible
11 sep -- projecting - wood route focus
30 mins warmup up to greens
+
hard bouldering
2 oranges. Did the 1st on 2nd go and the 2nd I could not do, but it's fingery and balancy, so it's a good one.
projects
I don't have much outdoor access to projects, so I'm doing 2 pre-established routes on the spray wall. One is a 25 move wooden set and the other is a 30 move yellow. I recorded the first attempt of each
But here was the benchmark:
wood: 10/25
yellow: 9/30
Then I did 3 more attempts on wood (to focus on it for the day and actually did worse)
I will be doing 5 attempts with about 5 or so minutes rest each time. for the next 2 weeks
17 Sep -- projecting - yellow focus
warmup
+
hard bouldering
worked a hard green (didn't get), the crimpy orange from last time (made progress) and a new orange (3rd go)
project:
Pretty bad yellow I kept falling going for the 3rd hold, even when hopping back on I didn't get to more than 6/7. Did the wooden one once and similar story, 6/7.
+
a few attempts of front lever lowers
NOTES: My right thum was hurting from even small compressive forces, like pressing the volume on my phone or holding a plate, so I skipped Thursday's session to avoid any injury. It doesn't hurt now which is good, but my performance today was sapped
22 Sep -- projecting - wooden route
wramup
+
hard bouldering
worked 2 oranges, didn't get them. It was fairly warm and crowded today
project:
Less bad, but still bad. I got to hold 8 or 9, except the last attempt which I did hold 10
+ front lever attempts
NOTES:
benchmark: I did my first successful front lever today. I did a nice long hold during negative atttempts (5 seconds?) then 2nd and 4rd round tried from hanging. No long hold, but I certainly got up to the position
24 Sep -- regular climbing
Brought in guests, so I didn't do any focused session. I just worked on progressively harder climbs. Noteably I got two oranges which were a little tough. On one, it's tempting to dyno to this hold facing the wrong way, but I did it static and that was the key. It was just a heel hook match on the hold and a balance up to the top hold. Later I got first go an orange I tried previously. bad undercling to bad pinch. Pretty nice
+ ended with 2 sets of 3 attempts to front lever from hang
28 Sep -- power endurance
warmup including flashing a technical green and orange slab
+ power endurance.
Used the same corner as last time that had a purple and yellow I could climb up and down.
(p = purple up, P = purple up and down, y = yellow up, Y = yellow up then down)
1 P-Y-P
2 P-Y-P
3 P-Y-P
4 P-Y-Y
5 P-Y-Y
6 P-Y-y*
* Route not finished. either ran the clock out trying to rest and depump as best as possible
+
ended with 3 sets of 3 attempts to front lever from hang
Notes:
I dedicded to do a power endurance session because my previous project attempts were bad and I needed a power endurance boost (which according to Eric Horst's TFC podcast, doing power endurance sessions gives you a temporary boost, specificity on dealing with that load on your system, clearing out lactate and such). Definitely saw improvements compared to the session on 8Sep. Also, the front levers are coming along nicely. They weren't perfect, but doing them from hangs rather than doing negatives now is a big improvement.