Dec 2022

 1 Dec

Just regular climbing. I went again with my Thomas, so no special training. Just regular climbs (backlocking on 14 Dec, so I don't remember how I did exactly). I did manage to get an orange that I thought was tough on an overhang and I think I hurt my wrists

7 Dec

Regular climbing again with Thomas. I did more oranges, I believe I finished all of them off in the gym (modulo 1 or 2). I remember trying a bunch of reds, but I didn't get a single one, they're just that much more difficult

14 Dec -- Hangboard Repeaters #7

1 ----------------- 6S

2 ----------------- 6S (-4)

3 ----------------- 5S-9  (-8.5) 

4 ----------------- L 5S-6 , R 6S  (b+14.5)

5 ----------------- 6S (-14)

6 ----------------- 6S (-4.5)

7 ----------------- L 4S-5-5, R 5S-7 (b+12.5)

8 ----------------- 3S-8-7-7 (-16) 

9 ----------------- 4S-8-2 (-13.5)

+

SE

3 rnds:

5 squats (76.5kg)

5 dips (BW+7.5kg)

3 turkish getups (18.5kg)

Notes: week long break because of finals and Kendra visiting. Pleasantly surprised at my performance despite the last hangboarding session being over 2 weeks ago. The SE weights are increasing only slightly. I could go more, but there's no reason to bother with that

18 Dec -- Limit Bouldering

30 min warmup. -> hardish bouldering --> limit bouldeirng

I chose one hard orange which is just a vertical pinch strip. Also made a project on the spray wall. It doesn't seem as bad as the last one (which was changed), but it's still going to take a while. Feet on wooden nubs mostly
+
3 front levers
5 reverse wrist rolls (the thing with a stick and a rope) (3kg). 5 up and down

22 Dec -- Campus Board #1

30 min warmup -> hard bouldering 

Tried the same pinch line orange, not as much luck as last time, but not bad. Consistantly got to the same spot, 1 move prior to my best attempt last time. Flashed a red as well, was thinking it would be harder.

+
Campus board

Matching ladders

(B1, L2,R2,L3,R3,L4,R4) (all large edge) 1,3

(B1, R2,L2,R3,L3,R4,L4) (all large edge) 2,4

1 4

2 6

3 6

4 4

Basic ladders 

(B1,L2,R3,L4,R5,L6,B6) (all large edge) 5,7

(B1,R2,L3,R4,L5,R6,B6) (all large edge) 6,8

5 5

6 6

7 2

8 3

_____________________ 36/48

NOTES: Not as good as last time In October, but not a complete regression. I felt the pain in my wrists during the warmup, particularly during a slopey green one. This is more of a problem that when I previously felt it. Gotta be careful. No pain from the campusing at all though.

24 Dec -- Hangboard Repeaters #8

1 ----------------- 6S

2 ----------------- 5S-8 (-3.5)

3 ----------------- 4S-8-5  (-8) 

4 ----------------- L 2S-5-7-5-5 , R 6S  (b+15)

5 ----------------- 5S-8 (-13.5)

6 ----------------- 5S-7 (-4)

7 ----------------- L 3S-6-5-4, R 5S-7 (b+12.5)

8 ----------------- 5S-8 (-16) 

9 ----------------- 5S-5 (-13.5)

+

SE

3 rnds:

5 squats (79kg)

5 dips (BW+10kg)

3 turkish getups (20kg)

Notes: Day before Christmas, tomorrow will be cloased, but the next few days will be hot, so I had to squeeze this in. Pretty bad with the left hand pinches, but I was last time as well and I got better. I'm liking the individual hand training here. Hopefully I'll be strong enough one day to do one-armed hangs for all the regular stuff (edges, pockets, etc.)

29 Dec -- Campus Board #2

30 min warmup -> hard bouldering 

Again tried the same orange pinch line. Didn't get any further.

Campus board

Matching ladders

(B1, L2,R2,L3,R3,L4,R4) (all large edge) 1,3

(B1, R2,L2,R3,L3,R4,L4) (all large edge) 2,4

1 6

2 6

3 6

4 6

Basic ladders 

(B1,L2,R3,L4,R5,L6,B6) (all large edge) 5,7

(B1,R2,L3,R4,L5,R6,B6) (all large edge) 6,8

5 6

6 6

7 6

8 6

_______PERFECT______ 48/48

NOTES: Perfect! The first time I've ever completed this exercise perfectly. I guess the next step is to add another rung

Nov 2022

 2 Nov 2022 -- Regular climbing

Yet again, 3rd session in a row where I'm climbing with others so no specific training undergone. I desperately want to get back to it though. Today I climbed with Curran. During the warmup I repeated several of the oranges form the last session, made progress on the last one hard green and progress on a different orange which has since escaped me. I also tried some blacks just to sample and see what's possible. I repeated 2 reds from last session and got a new one while attempting 2 other reds. Very mixed bag
+
1 set of 4 front levers and 2 each side one arm negatives

5 Nov -- Hangboard (Max hang attempt, big waste of time)

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 2S (+2)
3 ----------------- 0S 4-4 (+2.5) 
4 ----------------- 2S (block 16) 
5 ----------------- 0S 6-6 (0)
6 ----------------- 2S (+6)
7 ----------------- 0S 5-5 (block 16) *
8 ----------------- 0S-8-6 (+1.5) 
9 ----------------- 2S (-4)

+
SE
3 rnds:

weighted pullups (22kg) 5-5-5

5 ea. KB presses (18kg) 5-5-5

3  front levers (tried for a weak 4th)

NOTES: Intendid for it to be a regular repeater hang routine, but the rope was nowhere. I did my best to convert my weights from last year April from lbs to kg. Fairly early on some jackass comes down with the rope from upstairs and still keeps it like he's going to use it and does some one arm assisted band pullups or something. He repeatedly leaves and comes back and doesn't actually use the rope. He puts it back near the very end and I get in one set with MRP (#9 on the list) where I can take off weight. 

I'm using the pinch blocks so it's not being weiged consistantly. I'm neither adding nor subtracting from my body weight. I'm just pinching the weight listed (16kg in this routine). For wide pinch (#7), my right hand was successful for both, left hand failed at 5 seconds in. Glaring weakness that can be addressed. Anyway, this was largely a failed routing, not the least bit because I dragged over a cup, gelatin and an orange to get back into the finger health/tendon loading protocol I was doing back in Jtree, hopefully there was some tiny benefit from that.

9 Nov -- Hangboard Repeaters #3

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 5S-9 (-5)
3 ----------------- 3S-7-6-5 (-9) neg 
4 ----------------- R 6S,L 2S-7-5-6-5 (b+14) *

5 ----------------- 5S-7 (-16)**
6 ----------------- 5S-7 (-6)
7 ----------------- R 6S,2S-6-4-4-4 (b+12) *
8 ----------------- 4S-8-8 (-17) **
9 ----------------- 4S-6-6 (-14.5)

+
SE
3 rnds:

weighted pullups (22.5kg) 5-5-5

5 ea. KB presses (18.5kg) 5-5-5

3  front levers

NOTES: *pinch blocks. I've recorded right hand and left hand separately because there was a significant difference. **Missing weights, couldn't make the required weight, These should have been 16.5 and 17.5, but the 1kg and 1.5kg weights were just gone :/   Pullups and KB presses again were easy, but I couldn't really add what I wanted try 24 and 20 next time

FOR NEXT SESSION. USE THESE WEIGHTS:

weighted pullups (24kg)

5 ea. KB presses (20kg)

3  front levers

19 Nov 2022 -- Just climbing

After a long break (for finals), I came back today. I was gonna hangboard, expecting it to be crowded, but I just wanted to climb since it has been so long, so I did. Got a few of the new oranges on the new set, and tried  a handful of reds, no louck, but I could make a few moves into each of them, so reds are starting to feel possible, they're just proving to be a bit difficult

16 Nov -- Hangboard Repeaters #4

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 5S-8(-4.5)
3 ----------------- 3S-6-6-7 (-8.5) 
4 ----------------- R 6S, L 4S-6-8 (b+14) *
5 ----------------- 6S (-16)
6 ----------------- 5S-9 (-6)
7 ----------------- R 3S-8-5-6, L 3S-6-6-6 (b+12) *
8 ----------------- 3S-7-6-7 (-16.5) **
9 ----------------- 4S-6-8 (-14.5)

+
SE
3 rnds:

weighted pullups (24kg) 5-5-5

5 ea. KB presses (20kg) 5-5-5

3  front levers

NOTES: *pinch blocks. I've recorded right hand and left hand separately because there was a significant difference. Also for the 4th entry I made a guess here. I had 4S,6,6,8, maybe I meant 3S:6,6,8 or 4S:6,8 **Missing weights, couldn't make the required weight, this should have been 17. Also, weird that in the wide pinch my right hand was weaker than last time, doing the full 6 at the same weight.

baglock note: Date now is a guess. I'm looking back now to grab my HB numbers. Now it's Feb 2023 and I noticed right now I have "9 Nov" for both #3 and #4. I guess it doesn't really matter.

24 Nov  -- Hangboard Repeaters #5

1 ----------------- 6S

2 ----------------- 6S (-4.5)

3 ----------------- 3S-8-9-7  (-8.5) 

4 ----------------- L 3S-7-6-5, R 6S (b+14)

5 ----------------- 6S(-15)

6 ----------------- 6S(-5.5)

7 ----------------- L 4S-7-4, R 6S (b+12)

8 ----------------- 6S (-17) 

9 ----------------- 6S (-14.5)

+

SE

3 rnds:

5 squats (70kg ~ BW)

5 dips (body weight)

3 turkish getups (16kg I think double check)

NOTES: After 6 months I just discovered the climbing gym had a facility upstairs with a squat rack and stuff. Extremely useful for supplemental exercises. I haven't done squats and deadlifts in a while and i think it would be an excellent addition.

27 Nov  -- Hangboard Repeaters #6

1 ----------------- 6S

2 ----------------- 5S-7 (-4)

3 ----------------- 4S-7-7  (-8.5) 

4 ----------------- L 6S , R 6S  (b+14)

5 ----------------- 6S(-14. 5)

6 ----------------- 6S(-5)

7 ----------------- L 3S-5-4-5, R 6S (b+12.5)

8 ----------------- 5S-7 (-16.5) 

9 ----------------- 6S (-14)

+

SE

3 rnds:

5 squats (75kg)

5 dips (BW+5kg)

3 turkish getups (17kg)

28 Nov -- regular climbing

Brought a friend from unilodge, Thomas, to climb with. He has a 2 week trial from this so we will go more times. I'm backlogging this (14 Dec), so I don't know exactly what I accomplished.

Oct 2022

1 Oct 2022 - projecting - yellow climb

after some warmup, I hopped on the system wall.
Y - 10*
Y - 10
Y - 10
wood - 11
Y -10

In all cases I think I fell going for the hold, i.e. I didn't latch 10 then fall going for 11, I got 9 then fell trying to get to 10 in the first case with the *, it was "legal" the 3rd hold is low and there's a big drop, I almost never actually get it, but I hop back on because the fall wasn't from forearm failing.
+
3 sets 3 front levers

NOTES: this is a best guess backlog, I forgot to add the seesion in the day of, it's currently october 6th

6 Oct - regular climbing

I was going to work on the projects, but the system wall was being reset, The effect on the project climbs then are TBD (as to if they will still be up).

Warmup
+
hardish bouldering. tried 2 oranges, got one after 30 minutes and ~10 serious attempts. The other I did not, but each attempt I made it a bit further. it's overhanging on small holds, an important style that I should work
+
2 sets 3 front levers

NOTES: Although it feels nice I can do the front levers, really it's only the first 2 of the first 2 sets which are good. I need to change something up to make more progress

9 Oct - projecting wood holds*

warmup
+
hard bouldering
I redid the orange one I worked on Thursday and it was much easier given the beta I found. I climbed two reds today as well. One was slabby, another was just soft, felt like an easy orange
+
wood project*
+ 3 sets 3 front levers. I recorded it and I'm not actually as rigid as I feel, so taht can be improved

NOTES:
* So there was a change out and now a new set of holds exist on the system wall. A new wooden hold sequence of 30 moves exists. I still only get to about 10 and then fall. So It can still be a benchmark climb for the next trianing cycle

13 Oct - projecting wood holds

warmup
+
hardish bouldering
new techy orange
+
wood project - all 5 attempts were getting to the 9th hold and falling going for the 10th
+
3 sets 3 front levers

NOTES: I was planning to start a new cycle over and hangboard again, but I forgot to bring my harness and extra carabiners.. Usually a cycle is preceeded with 2 weeks of complete rest, but that's in the intense 17 week schedule. As I've been doing 2-3 days per week, it's not much to reovery from and I'm doing this weird linear/non-linear merge

16 Oct -- Hangboard Repeaters #1

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-6)
3 ----------------- 3S-7-6-6 (-9) 
4 ----------------- 6S (-15.5) 
5 ----------------- 6S (-17.5)
6 ----------------- 5S-7 (-6.5)
7 ----------------- 4S-6-4 (-14)
8 ----------------- 3S-9-7-7 (-17.5) 
9 ----------------- 4S-9-7 (-14.5)

+
SE
3 rnds:

weighted pullups (20kg) 5-5-5

5 ea. KB presses (16kg) 5-5-5

3  front levers

NOTES: I must have swapped looking at my last KB and weighted pullup weights. I guess my pullup weight has improved. KBs felt easy, so I will certainly raise both next time

22 Oct -- Hangboard Repeaters #2

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-5.5)
3 ----------------- 4S-8-8 (-9) 
4 ----------------- 6S (-15) 
5 ----------------- 6S (-17)
6 ----------------- 5S-7 (-6)
7 ----------------- ? (-14) *
8 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-17.5) 
9 ----------------- 4S-7-8 (-14.5)

+
SE
3 rnds:

weighted pullups (21.5kg) 5-5-5

5 ea. KB presses (17.5kg) 5-5-5

3  front levers (tried for a weak 4th)

NOTES: *someone else was hangboarding, when the time came to do wide pinches, I didn't have the correct weights. But there was a pinch block and I tried it, both 24 and 20 kg were too much for me to hold. This may be more effective pinch training and I think I'll try to use it in the future as it's closer to the correct stimulus than hanging from the wooden cylinders. Pullup and KB presses were quite easy at the weight, I'll keep adding larger amounts (like 1.5kg instead of .5 kg increments)

26 Oct -- regular climbing

I met with people today, so I didn't do a hangboard session. I tried 8 new oranges and got 5 of them rather good. 2 others were really not bad, I got to the 2nd to last hold in basically every attempt, but it was super packed because I went at 5pm, just as busy as going on the weekend

30 Oct -- regular climbing

Went with James today to boulder so no training. Nice progress though. Did 2 of the oranges I didn't get last time as well as 2 newer ones on the new set and 2 reds. One was flashed, one was 2nd go.
+5 front leavers
+ 2 1 arm pullup negatives 2 each arm

Sep 2022

 1 Sep -- Power endurance

20-30 mins warmup
+
hard bouldering - some oranges, not success on any of them. The newest set is pretty difficult
+
6 rnds linked bouldering circuit
2:4 work rest
Avoided the system wall and instead went to the same overhang wall as last time with a green and purple climb:
1st round completely fair. 2nd and 3rd I hopped off breifly at the bottom. For the reamaining, I managed to stay on for the first and 2nd climbs (green them purple) I also ended the remaining 30 seconds or so on a slight overhanging yellow as last time, but less time as before

NOTES: Compared to the last session, I was able to complete at least 2 climbs (though with some brief stepping off the wall). Definitely an improvement

4 Sep -- limit bouldering

30 min warmup
+
hard bouldering - hard green, repeated an orange I was having trouble with, first go
+
limit bouldering
worked a new red a few times + worked my 3 move problem on the system wall. Did worse than last time I tried. It's still pretty difficult

Notes: didn't feel that good of a day. Felt like I regressed a bit

8 Sep -- power endurance

30 min warmup
+
hard bouldering - greens, they're hard enough on the current set.
+
6 rnds linked bouldering circuit
The wall I used last time is being reset, so I went to a different wall it had a purple and yellow on an overhang. I thought it would be easier, the first round felt like it, but I definitely got a very, very deep pump. round breakdown:
(p = purple up, P = purple up and down, y = yellow up, Y = yellow up then down)
1  P-Y-P
2  P-Y-p*
3  P-Y-y
4  P-y*
5  P-y*
6  P-y*

* Route not finished. either ran the clock out trying to rest and depump as best as possible

11 sep -- projecting - wood route focus

30 mins warmup up to greens
+
hard bouldering
2 oranges. Did the 1st on 2nd go and the 2nd I could not do, but it's fingery and balancy, so it's a good one.
projects
I don't have much outdoor access to projects, so I'm doing 2 pre-established routes on the spray wall. One is a 25 move wooden set and the other is a 30 move yellow. I recorded the first attempt of each
But here was the benchmark:

wood: 10/25
yellow: 9/30

Then I did 3 more attempts on wood (to focus on it for the day and actually did worse)

I will be doing 5 attempts with about 5 or so minutes rest each time. for the next 2 weeks

17 Sep -- projecting - yellow focus

warmup
+
hard bouldering 
worked a hard green (didn't get), the crimpy orange from last time (made progress) and a new orange (3rd go)
project:
Pretty bad yellow I kept falling going for the 3rd hold, even when hopping back on I didn't get to more than 6/7. Did the wooden one once and similar story, 6/7.
+
a few attempts of front lever lowers

NOTES: My right thum was hurting from even small compressive forces, like pressing the volume on my phone or holding a plate, so I skipped Thursday's session to avoid any injury. It doesn't hurt now which is good, but my performance today was sapped

22 Sep -- projecting - wooden route

wramup
+
hard bouldering
worked 2 oranges, didn't get them. It was fairly warm and crowded today
project:
Less bad, but still bad. I got to hold 8 or 9, except the last attempt which I did hold 10
+ front lever attempts

NOTES:
benchmark: I did my first successful front lever today. I did a nice long hold during negative atttempts (5 seconds?) then 2nd and 4rd round tried from hanging. No long hold, but I certainly got up to the position

24 Sep -- regular climbing

Brought in guests, so I didn't do any focused session. I just worked on progressively harder climbs. Noteably I got two oranges which were a little tough. On one, it's tempting to dyno to this hold facing the wrong way, but I did it static and that was the key. It was just a heel hook match on the hold and a balance up to the top hold. Later I got first go an orange I tried previously. bad undercling to bad pinch. Pretty nice

+ ended with 2 sets of 3 attempts to front lever from hang

28 Sep -- power endurance

warmup including flashing a technical green and orange slab
+ power endurance.
Used the same corner as last time that had a purple and yellow I could climb up and down.
(p = purple up, P = purple up and down, y = yellow up, Y = yellow up then down)

1  P-Y-P
2  P-Y-P
3  P-Y-P
4  P-Y-Y
5  P-Y-Y
6  P-Y-y*
* Route not finished. either ran the clock out trying to rest and depump as best as possible
+
ended with 3 sets of 3 attempts to front lever from hang

Notes:
I dedicded to do a power endurance session because my previous project attempts were bad and I needed a power endurance boost (which according to Eric Horst's TFC podcast, doing power endurance sessions gives you a temporary boost, specificity on dealing with that load on your system, clearing out lactate and such). Definitely saw improvements compared to the session on 8Sep. Also, the front levers are coming along nicely. They weren't perfect, but doing them from hangs rather than doing negatives now is a big improvement.

Aug 2022

 1 Aug 2022 -- Limit bouldering

warmup: 30 minutes of kinda continuous easy climbing, doing the 3 lowest grades (yellow, blue, purple) climbs, up and down
20 mins hard bouldering - working some green and orane climbs
30 mins hard bouldering - the same red and spray wall climbs. no progress. slightly worse actually, previously I was able to make at least one successful attempt at getting all 3 spray wall holds

NOTES: after the warmup, I felt a little soreness on the inside of my left index, 2nd knuckle (PIP? volar plate?) I climbed through it, it's alright for now

3 Aug 2022 -- Campus board 2

warmup: 30 minutes easy climbing (yellow, blue, purple)
20 mins hard bouldering - worked 2 red climbs. Got the 1st one 2nd go
+
campus board:

Matching ladders

(B1, L2,R2,L3,R3,L4,R4) (all large edge) 1,3

(B1, R2,L2,R3,L3,R4,L4) (all large edge) 2,4

1 - Fail (got to L3) (3/6)

2 - Fail (got to R3) (2/6)

3 - Good (6/6)

4 - Good (6/6)

Basic ladders 

(B1,L2,R3,L4,R5,L6,B6) (all large edge) 6,7

(B1,L2,R3,L4,R5,L6,B6) (all large edge) 6,8

5 - Fail (got to L4) (3/6)

6 - Fail (got to L5) (4/6)

7 - Fail (got to R5) (4/6)

8 - Fail (got to R5) (4/6)

_____________________ 32/48
+
supplemental exercises (sorta). Did KB lowers because I was feeling some "climber's elbow"

35lb kb lowers (5 1st round, 4 2nd round)

10 slow pushups

2 front lever negatives

6 Aug -- Hangboard Repeaters #8

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-5)
3 ----------------- 2S-9-7-7-5 (-8.5) 
4 ----------------- 6 (-14.5) 
5 ----------------- 6S (-15) accidentally dropped more than expected. Not bad
6 ----------------- 6S (-5.5)
7 ----------------- 5S-9 (-13.5)
8 ----------------- 6S (-17.5) 
9 ----------------- 5S-7 (-13.5)

+
SE
3 rnds:

3  front lever negatives

weighted pullups (16kg) 5-4-4 (attempted 5)

5 ea. KB presses (21kg) 5-5-5

NOTES: Part of my attempt to add in non-linear stuff (i.e. random round of strength added in power phase). Just did slightly worse on the medium pinch. First front lever negative of 1st and 2nd round felt great! 3 second lower. Improved KB and weighted pullups from last time, but probably because I gave myself a full 5 minutes rest between rounds.

8 Aug -- limit bouldering

20-30 mins warmup climbs of blue and purples, this bled into doing some greens and oranges that weren't too difficult, but less continuous, i.e. I would rest about a minute between attempts.
+
hard bouldering 20 minutes on some red problems. I repeated one I've done before. Then I did a balancy red I tried before. I got futher but didn't match the final hold. I could grab statically with one hand though, previously I fell before grabbing it. Tried a third red a few times between chatting with a cute girl. A little weak to finish it, but got pretty close in all 3 tries
+
limit bouldering - same two problems. The red arete and the spray wall climb.

NOTES: I did worse on this part, but better in the hard bouldering so I have mixed feelings about today's success. Finished with 2 rounds of 2 front lever negatives just because. The first attempt of both rounds was fantastic. I'm making daily progress it feels like.

10Aug 2022 -- Campus board 3

warmup: 30 minutes easy climbing (yellow, blue, purple)
20-30 mins hard bouldering - Did one of the red climbs I failed on last session first go. Also did 2 attempts on the red arete. Both times I latched the last right hand pinch, I've never been able to do that before
+
campus board:

Matching ladders

(B1, L2,R2,L3,R3,L4,R4) (all large edge) 1,3

(B1, R2,L2,R3,L3,R4,L4) (all large edge) 2,4

1 8 *

2 6

3 6

4 6

Basic ladders 

(B1,L2,R3,L4,R5,L6,B6) (all large edge) 6,7

(B1,L2,R3,L4,R5,L6,B6) (all large edge) 6,8

5 4+

6 6

7 6

8 3+

_____________________ 44/48 *
+
supplemental exercises (sorta). Did KB lowers again for the "climber's elbow"

53lb kb lowers (5 1st round, 4 2nd round)

2 front lever negatives (again, pretty good)

* First round I matched up to rung 6, so two extra moves because I forgot what the top rung was supposed to be. I'm going to count it. I'm not counting it in the total, it's just extra (it would be 46/48 otherwise)

Also I'm switching to this alternative scoring system. Each round is out of 6 because there are 6 movements, a plus means I used or moved off but didn't latch the next hold and gives half a point. Much more legible

13 Aug -- Hangboard Repeaters #9

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-4.5)
3 ----------------- 5S-9 (-8.5)
4 ----------------- 6 (-14) 
5 ----------------- 6S (-14.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-5)
7 ----------------- 4S-8-6 (-13)
8 ----------------- 5S-9(-17) 
9 ----------------- 3S-7-7-6 (-13)

+
SE
3 rnds:

3  front lever negatives

weighted pullups (16kg) 5-4-4 (attempted 5)

5 ea. KB presses (21.5kg) 5-4-3

NOTES: great front lever first round, pretty bad on the last round though. Added just .5 kg to the KB presses and I did pretty bad, no pulup improvement either (if it matters)

15 Aug -- limit bouldering

20-30 mins warmup pyramids up to purple+a few greens
+
20 mins hard bouldering 2 orange problems I never got before. I took about 3 tries each same two problems. The red arete and the spray wall climb. On final 2/3 attempts on red arete I got my high point; I Snagged the arete pinch and held it and fell working the feet up. Then on all 3 attempts of the spray wall climb, I grabbed the last hold of the 3 move sequence, but a foot slipped and I fell. Good progress
+
SE
2 rnds:
-3 front lever negatives
-10 slow pushups

NOTES: hard bouldering oranges

limit bouldering - same two problems. The red arete and the spray wall climb. On final 2/3 attempts on red arete I got my high point. Snagged the arete pinch and held it and fell working the feet up the next section. On all 3 attempts of the spray wall climb, I grabbed the last hold, but a foot slipped and I fell. Good progress

 I did worse on this part, but better in the hard bouldering so I have mixed feelings about today's success. Finished with 2 rounds of 2 front lever negatives just because. The first attempt of both rounds was fantastic. I'm making daily progress it feels like.

17 Aug -- sort of power endurance

20-30 mins warmup pyramids to greens
+
20 mins hard bouldering
tried an orange and red in the new set, didn't get either.
+
3 power endurancy stuff on the system wall with James (McCullen) as my stick man! Round times were about 1:30, 1:15, 1:00, but I fell during those rounds. I hopped back on if the falls were more from technical failure instead of muscle pump. A good transition into power endurance exercises, but this one was a tad tough

21 Aug -- Power endurance

20-30 mins warmup
+
hard bouldering - new oranges and a red attempt
+
2:4 work rest
attempted 6 rounds, my first 3 rounds were on the system wall and it was too hard. I fell many times from pump and tried to get back on to accumulate the time, it was ~1:30,1:15,1:00, then I switched to a regular overhung wall with a green and purple and managed to stay on closer to 3 minutes (though I definitely touched the ground, shook out and hopped back on). There's lots of room for improvement here

25 Aug -- Power endurance

20-30 mins warmup
+
hard bouldering - new orange and red
+
6 rnds linked bouldering circuit
2:4 work rest
Avoided the system wall ain instead went to the same overhang wall as last time with a green and purple climb:
1st and 2nd round I think I completed fairly, 3rd needed to depump on route. 4,5,6 I fell off and instead went to a very slightly overhaning wall with a yellow (the easiest possible level) and stayed on against the pump

NOTES: even a few hours later I feel a deep pump in my forearms

28 Aug -- Outdoor climbing

Did 3 climbs all about 5.9 or lower on TR (tried one aroun 10b but couldn't get it), not much really

Jul 2022

6 Jul -- Hangboard Repeaters #3

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S(-8) I might have used the deeper pocker than I wanted. Not used to this board
3 ----------------- 5S-7 (-10) 
4 ----------------- 6S (-14) 
5 ----------------- 6S (-19) 
6 ----------------- 5S-8 (-9)
7 ----------------- 6S (-14)  Repeated the narrow grip because wide unavailable 
8 ----------------- 5S-9 (-19) 
9 ----------------- 4S-7-7 (-16)

NOTES:  Slightly better numbers. Took a week off because last week in the same evening and the following morning, I felt a sharp pain in my right middle finger's DIP joint. I wasn't going to HB today, I was going to just climb, but it was feeling so good, so I went for it. I'm going to add more counter weight and do a proper pinch next time, because what's happening now I'm not convincved is actually training my actual pinch strength. Chest/rib pain still present, so no supplementary exercises

9 Jul - Limit bouldering

Although I'm doing the RCTM, I want to make it slightly non-linear so I don't want to just do hangboarding for a month, then nothing, I want to have a focused phase (eg I'm in strength phase now) but I want to sprinkle in some of the different energy system training in each phase, so this was my sprinkle of power training.

45 minutes w/u - some rowing, slow pushups, then half an hour doing some purple to green climbs (gym v3/v4)

30 mins hard bouldering: 3 problems 10 minutes each. 3 orange problems (~gym V5's) took me 3 tries for the first two. The last one I didn't make it past the 2nd move and only gave it 2 attemtps. It's on the roster for next time

30 mins limit bouldering: 2 problems 15 mins each. It took a little longer because it was crowded. I futzed around on one red problem (like a gym 6), black and white (v7 and v8) but the black and white were too hard and the red wasn't a suitable style. Then I got to a red one that was good. On an arette, very crimpy, I considered that as my first problem. The 2nd one I made something up on the system wall (60 deg overhung) , 3 moves. Move off an undercling with two bad, but large slopey feet. The sequence is L, R, L on wooden incuts. On my 3rd and last attempt I almost held the R.

11 Jul -- Hangboard Repeaters #4

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-7) Did med edge for the 1st round accidentally, the actual 5 rounds felt easy
3 ----------------- 3S-7-7-6 (-9) 
4 ----------------- 0S-1-1-1-1-1-1 (-20)  tried pinching the bottom only, not even close
5 ----------------- 6S (-18.5) 
6 ----------------- 6S (-8)
7 ----------------- 6S (-12)  Just did it normally this time and used less counter weight 
8 ----------------- 6S (-18.5) 
9 ----------------- 6S (-16)

NOTES: improvments across the board other than med edge, might have been because I didn't tire myself out during the 1st pinch (because I could barely hang on). My right middle DIP joint hurt again but not during hanboarding or at anytime on the wall, just when I got home and opened the fridge door. I don't think it's going to be a big deal. I might have strained it honestly trying to do the bottom pinching, so I will just do it the "ineffective way" for now

                                                Red arete limit boulder project

14 Jul -- limit bouldering

I wanted to hangboard, but I forgot to bring my paper and didn't know my weights. I realized just now I could have just opened this blog to get them. Whoops

Warmed up climbing on easy stuff and did two greens.

30 mins hard bouldering - 3 oranges, Got to the top of the 1st but didn't hold it, and it was my last go. 2nd problem was the last I mentioned on the 9th. I just made one more longer, 2rd problem I only made 2 moves
30 mins limit bouldering: Worked the same problems , a red arete and my 3 move problem on the spray wall. This time 2 of my 4 attempts I made 2 moves and fell trying to hold onto the 3rd, some light improvement

16 Jul -- Hangboard Repeaters #5

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-6.5)
3 ----------------- 4S-7-6 (-9) 
4 ----------------- 6 (-16)  pinched with my thumb, middle + index to reduce friction assistance
5 ----------------- 6S (-18) 
6 ----------------- 6S (-7)
7 ----------------- 6S (-16)  3 fingers, as described above (in 4)
8 ----------------- 6S (-18) 
9 ----------------- 6S (-15)

Notes: Pretty good today, certainly getting some strength back. Followed up with some climbing, longer than I intended, in order to meet a couple so we can climb next weekend at the roped gym and perhaps outside (Curran and jen). Spent a lot of time this morning changing my tire, so I could bike again to the gym. But I also didn't get back until ~4 pm, so I'm fasting today until dinner

19 Jul -- Hangboard Repeaters #6

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-6)
3 ----------------- 6S (-9) 
4 ----------------- 6 (-15.5)  pinched with my thumb, middle + index to reduce friction assistance
5 ----------------- 6S (-17.5) 
6 ----------------- 6S (-6.5)
7 ----------------- 6S (-14)  *Actually used wide pinch now
8 ----------------- 5S-9 (-17.5) 
9 ----------------- 6S (-14.5)

+
SE
3 rnds:

3  front lever negatives

weighed pullups (16kg) 5-4-3 (attempted 5)

5 ea. KB presses (1st round 16 kg, 2nd and 3rd 20kg) 5-5-5

Notes: Excellent session. I also ate beforehand and wore jeans, so despite this extra weight I carried, I did well. *I bought 1 meter of paracord to replace the broken one and now I have two different "pinch" grips to train as best I can.

21 Jul -- Limit bouldering

warmed up by playing around for half an hour on easy routes
then 30 mins of hard bouldering (did a balancy red)

limit bouldering 30 minutes, 15 mins apiece on the same red and the system wall climb

Notes: was going to do campusing today, but there was some matt maintenance going on

23 July -- gym moderates

Went to the climbing gym today did climbs between Eubanks 17-21 (~5.9-5.11a). Not too many on the high end though, tried to focus on technique and aerobic endurance. I ended the day doing 4 in a row of 17-19-18-15 (5.9, 10a, 10b, 5.8). 24 hour fast day

24 July -- outdoor moderates

Went to Falcons Lookout did some 5easy's to a few low 5.10's all on TR, 5 routes total

28 Jul -- Hangboard Repeaters #7

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-5.5)
3 ----------------- 3S-8-8-7 (-8.5) 
4 ----------------- 6 (-15) 
5 ----------------- 6S (-16.5) didn't have access to some weights so I had to drop a full 1kg 
6 ----------------- 6S (-6)
7 ----------------- 5S-7 (-13.5)
8 ----------------- 4S-7-8 (-17.5) 
9 ----------------- 5S-6 (-14)

+
SE
3 rnds:

3  front lever negatives

weighted pullups (16kg) 4-4-3 (attempted 4)

5 ea. KB presses (1st round 16 kg, 2nd and 3rd 21kg) 5-5-3 (actually 5-5-5 with RH, 5-5-3 LH)

NOTES: First front lever felt comfortable. I think I held it for ~1/2 second before dropping and dropped fairly slowly. This may actually be possible.

30 Jul -- Campus board 1

warmup:

half an hour pyramids of easy to my limit (green)

20 minutes hard bouldering (attempted 2 orange climbs, 10 mins each, 3 attempts) didn't get either.

+

Matching ladders (B1, L2,R2,L3,R3,L4,R4) (all large edge)

1 - Good

2 - Fail (3/6?)

3 - Good

4 - Good

Basic ladders (B1,L2,R3,L4,R5,L6,B6) (all large edge)

5 - Fail (got to R5) (4/6)

6 - Fail (did matching ladders accidentally, fell and did 2 more movements) (4/6)

7 - Fail (got to R5) (4/6)

8 - Fail (got. To L4, fell and continued) (3/6)

_________________________ 36/48 ?  (guess)

NOTES: Lots of room for improvement which is exciting. Rounds 3,4,7,8 are supposed to be medium edge, but i'm not strong enough. Today is a 24 hour fast day, like last saturday

June 2022

~6 month climbing gap (explanation/excuse)

To get ready to start back up at school, I moved out of J-tree at the end of December and prepped for moving in early Feb so I really only went to a climbing gym twice over that period. I moved to Australia about 3 weeks before school began and didn't have any money in my bank account until April. This was fortunate because school was a little rough as I couldn't prepare. Now the semester is over (except for finals which are in the next 2 weeks) and since I have room to breathe, I started a 2 week trial at a bouldering gym (plus I got in on a good deal a week ago to go to a roped gym for just $5). The grades are weird but I hoped on a "23 crack" (which is somewhere in the 5.11 range) same with a face climb. Although I was a bit nervous because my belayers had all just learned how to belay and some had pretty heinous technique. I got to near the top of each of those climbs but didn't really top. I lost a lot of endurance for sure. The bouldering gym doesn't have grades, they're just sorted by color in terms of difficulty. I'd guess the greens which I've mostly been climbing and a re just above my flash leel range from gym 3 to gym 5. I hope to be projecting orange and reds mostly and I'll probably start up a RCTM cycle again after enjoying the trial (assuming I don't flunk)

23 June

Did the 2 week trial early this June and just got a memebrship. I did a very poor hangboarding session. Not worth writing down, I'm using a beastmaker1000 hangboard which I'm not used to, so the weights and hold types don't carry over (especially the weights, they're all in kg!). So I will be finding my appropriate weights and begin an official hang session and begin an RCTM inspired training cycle soon

25 June - light bouldering

I want to do a second attempt at hangboarding so I didn't want to make it a tough day where I would zap my strength for tomorrow. I focused on some more balancy technical set problems. Though two of them admittedly had some small painful crimps that even now a few hours after I can feel. But I got them both (one orange one red, probably my first red). Did about an hour and finished with some shoulder mobility with a stick

Starting a hangboard cycle on a beastmaker 1000, not the board I'm familiar with. It doesn't have pinches, but the gym has some wooden cylinders I can pinch and hang from. Though right now the wide ones are broken. Also the weight is in kg, not lbs

26 Jun -- Hangboard Repeaters #1

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 2S-7-5-6-5 (-6) Did this one second, tired myself out
3 ----------------- 4S-7-6 (-6)  Used the wrong weight and did this first. intended to try -12
4 ----------------- 6S (-14)  
5 ----------------- 5S-6 (-20) 
6 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-10)
7 ----------------- 5S-8 (-14)  Repeated the narrow grip because wide unavailable 
8 ----------------- 2S-5-6-5-4 (-18) 
9 ----------------- 2S-7-6-6-4 (-16)

Notes: I went to fight club earlier in the day and got kicked in the stomach, an old strain pain came back, so I felt it throughout the day. Cooled down doing some easy climbs and making up balancy problems on a few sections of the slab wall. Very weeak attempt to do 2 sets of 4 front lever negatives

29 Jun -- Hangboard Repeaters #2

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 5S-8 (-8) Did this one second, tired myself out
3 ----------------- 2S-6-6-6-6 (-10)  Used the wrong weight and did this first. intended to try -12
4 ----------------- 6S (-14)  
5 ----------------- 6S (-19.5) 
6 ----------------- 5S-8 (-10)
7 ----------------- 4S-7-7 (-14)  Repeated the narrow grip because wide unavailable 
8 ----------------- 4S-7-7 (-19) 
9 ----------------- 4S-5-7 (-16.5)

Notes: no Supplemental exercises. Strain in my side still present. Still trying to find some of my weights. I don't like the pinches. As they are vertical cylinders, my whole hand grabs them. I knowt hat pinch training is really only effective when the distal part of the thumb is enganged which I'm sure isn't happening here. I tried some weird stuff like squeezing the bottom, which is why my pinch rounds weren't as good as the previous one, particularly the 2nd when I was stricter with trying that different thumb engagement