I'm going to try another cycle of RCTM. 10 weeks + 2 weeks rest (rather than the usual 15+2). Going to have to be weird with the rest and do some during the final exam week. Here's the plan up until the beginning of the next school quarter:
5 Jan -- Hangboard Repeaters (0)
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-12.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-55)
5 ----------------- 6S (-40)
6 ----------------- 6S (-30)
7 ----------------- 6S(-55) -- only hard one
8 ----------------- 6S (-50)
9 ----------------- 6S(-40)
NOTES: So I have a setup at my house now rather than using the slippery, grimy one at the gym. It's also possible that 2 pulleys really helps reduce the friction too. I also got a static line which is a little thick, 11mm. It was the only option though
NOTES: So I have a setup at my house now rather than using the slippery, grimy one at the gym. It's also possible that 2 pulleys really helps reduce the friction too. I also got a static line which is a little thick, 11mm. It was the only option though
6 Jan -- ARC
2 x 30 (10 min rest between) -- vertical wall
technique focus: smallest, worst feet when possible. A little bit of heel hooking, lie backing
technique focus: smallest, worst feet when possible. A little bit of heel hooking, lie backing
7 Jan -- easy blocks with rainbowing
first set: 2 10a-c climbs but swapping the feet for worse feet, tiny chips,jibs of adjacent routes
2nd set: 2 full rainbow routes climbs. One was just following a seam, the other was an arete
NOTES: This wasn't supposed to be a day, but I need to let my partner climb. This was quite fun. First set was more engaging than expected because the feet were quite bad, I felt like I was climbing 11s, even though the hands were usually juggy
2nd set: 2 full rainbow routes climbs. One was just following a seam, the other was an arete
NOTES: This wasn't supposed to be a day, but I need to let my partner climb. This was quite fun. First set was more engaging than expected because the feet were quite bad, I felt like I was climbing 11s, even though the hands were usually juggy
8 Jan -- ARC
2 x 30 (10 min rest between)
No technique focus today, walls were overhanging (on the bouldering area) and were much harder thanJan 6th's
No technique focus today, walls were overhanging (on the bouldering area) and were much harder thanJan 6th's
10 Jan -- 8 moderates (outdoor Jtree)
repeated solos: Skinny dip (5.7), tennis shoe crack (5.7) (up and down)
new solos OS: Hoopharkz (5.4 chimney, up, down after deflowered), deflowered (5.7)
repeated roped route as a solo: super roof (5.9)
roped route: take five (5.8)
____________________________ = 8 moderates (counting the down climbs)
11 Jan -- 6 moderates (indoor, gym)
3 blocks of 2:
10c, 10c
11a, 10c
11b, 10d
NOTES: felt a little unstable on the 11s, sweaty hands, no chalk
repeated solos: Skinny dip (5.7), tennis shoe crack (5.7) (up and down)
new solos OS: Hoopharkz (5.4 chimney, up, down after deflowered), deflowered (5.7)
repeated roped route as a solo: super roof (5.9)
roped route: take five (5.8)
____________________________ = 8 moderates (counting the down climbs)
11 Jan -- 6 moderates (indoor, gym)
3 blocks of 2:
10c, 10c
11a, 10c
11b, 10d
NOTES: felt a little unstable on the 11s, sweaty hands, no chalk
13 Jan -- ARC
3x 25min (10min break between)
technique focus: heel and toe hooks around corner for 1st round
technique focus: heel and toe hooks around corner for 1st round
14 Jan -- limit bouldering
10 min - ARC warmup
30 min - Warmup boulder ladders (WBL) V1x4, V2x4, V3x4, V4x3 (5 different V4s attempted)
30 min - hard bouldering V4x2, V5x2
30 min - limit bouldering V6 (2nd go send!), V6 (3 attempts)
+
SE
3 sets of:
- 1 attempt of a L-sit to handstand press
- 8 dips (BW, nothing added)
- 20 sec straight leg L-sits on parallettes
NOTES: 2 of the V4s I attempted during the warmup boulder ladders I fell on (As I'm looking for flash goes), so I came back to them in the "hard bouldering" portion, but I got them both 1sta ttempt of the hard bouldering portion, 2nd go overall. Surprise 2nd go send of the V6 was also nice
30 min - Warmup boulder ladders (WBL) V1x4, V2x4, V3x4, V4x3 (5 different V4s attempted)
30 min - hard bouldering V4x2, V5x2
30 min - limit bouldering V6 (2nd go send!), V6 (3 attempts)
+
SE
3 sets of:
- 1 attempt of a L-sit to handstand press
- 8 dips (BW, nothing added)
- 20 sec straight leg L-sits on parallettes
NOTES: 2 of the V4s I attempted during the warmup boulder ladders I fell on (As I'm looking for flash goes), so I came back to them in the "hard bouldering" portion, but I got them both 1sta ttempt of the hard bouldering portion, 2nd go overall. Surprise 2nd go send of the V6 was also nice
15 Jan -- ARC
2x25
technique focus: silent feet for about 10 mins 1st round. A bit of toe/heel hooking on 2nd round
NOTES: from the packed training schedule, or perhaps just yesterday's power-heavy focus, I felt fairly fatigued today. Glad ARCing is over
17 Jan -- Hangboard Repeaters (1)
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-10) -- little tough, keep
3 ----------------- 6S (-25)
4 ----------------- 6S (-50)
5 ----------------- 6S (-35)
6 ----------------- 6S (-25)
7 ----------------- 6S (-50)
8 ----------------- 6S (-45)
9 ----------------- 6S(-35)
NOTE: No SE today because I'm gong to climb the 11a sport proj in Jtree tomorrow, don't want to get too fatigued. Noticed a bit of a strain in the left forearm midway down. Maybe overuse from the last 2 weeks of higher volume. It's not in a worrisome part like the fingers, so no issues.
NOTE: No SE today because I'm gong to climb the 11a sport proj in Jtree tomorrow, don't want to get too fatigued. Noticed a bit of a strain in the left forearm midway down. Maybe overuse from the last 2 weeks of higher volume. It's not in a worrisome part like the fingers, so no issues.
18 Jan -- outdoor climbing (project, sent!)
4 climbs today (today was supposed to be a rest day)
- warmup on some unkown 10- (f)
- evildoers 11- (2nd go today).
Coordinates for later when adding to MP: N34.10397, W116.17435. This gets you to the area where evildooers is visible as is the unknown 10bish route and the conyon that goes in to another sport and trad route
- 5.6, 5.8
NOTES: today was supposed to be a rest day, but I can't really control when my friend is going to Jtree and I need to try the project whenever. I think it was the 5th try overall (with the first attempt being once back in 2022). I unlocked the beta in November during the 2nd and 3rd attempt. Then today the 4th and 5th overall attempt, I remembered and held it togehr. I made a lot of mistakes, foot slips and inneficiencies, so it's probably not really at my physical limit. Last 2 weeks of ARCing maybe helped in aerobic recovery because although I felt a little pumped, it wasn't too bad.
4 climbs today (today was supposed to be a rest day)
- warmup on some unkown 10- (f)
- evildoers 11- (2nd go today).
Coordinates for later when adding to MP: N34.10397, W116.17435. This gets you to the area where evildooers is visible as is the unknown 10bish route and the conyon that goes in to another sport and trad route
- 5.6, 5.8
NOTES: today was supposed to be a rest day, but I can't really control when my friend is going to Jtree and I need to try the project whenever. I think it was the 5th try overall (with the first attempt being once back in 2022). I unlocked the beta in November during the 2nd and 3rd attempt. Then today the 4th and 5th overall attempt, I remembered and held it togehr. I made a lot of mistakes, foot slips and inneficiencies, so it's probably not really at my physical limit. Last 2 weeks of ARCing maybe helped in aerobic recovery because although I felt a little pumped, it wasn't too bad.
20 Jan -- Hangboard Repeaters (2)
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-10) -- still tough
3 ----------------- 6S (-22.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-45)
5 ----------------- 6S (-32.5) -- easy, drop 5?
6 ----------------- 6S (-20) -- easy, drop 5?
7 ----------------- 6S (-45) --tough
8 ----------------- 6S (-40) -- easy, drop 5?
9 ----------------- 6S (-30)
+
SE
3 sets of
- 20s floor L-sits (legs spread a bit, focus on straight legs)
- 10 pushups (with arms down by hips)
+
SE
3 sets of
- 20s floor L-sits (legs spread a bit, focus on straight legs)
- 10 pushups (with arms down by hips)
23 Jan -- power endurance
warmup:
2x2 blocks
10c, 10b
11a, 10d
+
RP attempts on bouldery routes
3 attempts on a 12c. Got 5 clips in on the 2nd and 3rd attempt (overhanging on the cone)
2x2 blocks
10c, 10b
11a, 10d
+
RP attempts on bouldery routes
3 attempts on a 12c. Got 5 clips in on the 2nd and 3rd attempt (overhanging on the cone)
25 Jan -- lead blocks
10b, 10c, 10c
11d(f), 11a, 10d
11c, 11b, 10d
crack (f)
NOTES: today was technically supposed to be a rest day, but I didn't do yesterday's "optional moderates" and athough today was a little power-endurancy, it wasn't deeply fatiguing. It was also an opportunity to climb at the NEW GYM before anything opened.
26 Jan -- Hangboard Repeaters (3)
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-9) -- still tough
3 ----------------- 6S (-20)
4 ----------------- 5S-9 (-42.5)
5 ----------------- 6S (-27.5) -- tough
6 ----------------- 6S (-15)
7 ----------------- 5S-6 (-42.5)
8 ----------------- 6S (-35)
9 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
+
SE
3 sets of
- 20s floor L-sits (legs spread a bit, focus on straight legs)
- 10 pushups (with arms down by hips AND feet raised. About shin height on my cooler)
SE
3 sets of
- 20s floor L-sits (legs spread a bit, focus on straight legs)
- 10 pushups (with arms down by hips AND feet raised. About shin height on my cooler)
NOTES: during the slopers, my right wrist perhaps ever so slightly subluxes. This apparently happens because while in a sloper as opposed to other grips, the wrist is in a "loose pack" position, where the carpal bones are less joing congruity (alignment) and so the supporting ligaments are less taught. To avoid a TFCC tear or other chronic injury, I should add some wrist stabilizing exercises:
- wrist curls (regular and reverse) - 15-20 reps, light weight
- pronation/supination - like a light hammer on slow side-to-side
- isometric sloper holds - engaging wrist (cupping the hold) to keep it actively engaged with feet still on ground
- rice bucket exercises to target other stabilizers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03-Le-fMba8 -- basic
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3yiXlHnjBo -- advanced
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uKtlb-Etxg0 -- others
Also day after my right index pip is feeling sore, haven't felt this in a while, need to start active pre-hab for this too
- wrist curls (regular and reverse) - 15-20 reps, light weight
- pronation/supination - like a light hammer on slow side-to-side
- isometric sloper holds - engaging wrist (cupping the hold) to keep it actively engaged with feet still on ground
- rice bucket exercises to target other stabilizers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03-Le-fMba8 -- basic
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3yiXlHnjBo -- advanced
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uKtlb-Etxg0 -- others
Also day after my right index pip is feeling sore, haven't felt this in a while, need to start active pre-hab for this too
27 Jan -- wrist PT
2 sets 12 wrist curls (regular and reverse) - 10lbs
2 sets 12 wrist curls (regular and reverse) - 10lbs
2 sets 12 pronation & supination - 5 lbs
29 Jan -- Hangboard Repeaters (4)
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-8.5) .5 lbs drops
3 ----------------- 6S (-17.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-42.5) .5 lb drops
5 ----------------- 6S (-26.5) -- tough (start dropping by half lb)
6 ----------------- 6S (-12.5) -- tough (start dropping by half lb)
7 ----------------- 6S (-42.5) .5 lb drops
8 ----------------- 6S (-32.5)
9 ----------------- 6S (-25)
+
SE
3 sets of
- 22s floor L-sits (legs spread a bit, focus on straight legs)
- 10 pushups (with arms out. Feet raised to about hip height, crashpad on end)
mixed with (between):
+
SE
3 sets of
- 22s floor L-sits (legs spread a bit, focus on straight legs)
- 10 pushups (with arms out. Feet raised to about hip height, crashpad on end)
mixed with (between):
- 2 sets 10 wrist curls (regular and reverse) - 10lbs
- 2 sets 10 pronation & supination - 5 lbs
NOTES: Added 2 seconds to the L-sits, last set was a little bad, legs seemed more bent, I will keep this intensity longer. A bit of pain on the supination of the right hand, the wrist with the issue
NOTES: Added 2 seconds to the L-sits, last set was a little bad, legs seemed more bent, I will keep this intensity longer. A bit of pain on the supination of the right hand, the wrist with the issue