Dec 2025

looong gap. Final exams and stuf got in the way 

12 Dec -- lead blocks

10b,10c,10c
12a,11b,11a
11c,10c(f),10d

NOTES: yes, that's for real a fail on  10c. Was absolutely pumped. To tired from the outer routes. To be fair it was close to the top. Also first non-dihedral 12 since coming back from China which I'm happy about

13 Dec -- TR climbing

10c
10d
11b,10d
12a(f),11c
11d
12c(f)
12b(f)
11d, 10b, 10b

17 Dec -- lead blocks + bouldering
10a,10b, 10c
11c, 11b(f)
11a(f), 10d(f)
+
some bouldering 
V4x5 (all flash)

NOTES: was in a rush so couldn't get the full set of 3. Weird day. Weak on the lead, strong on the bouldering. They were a little soft, but at least one was kind of hard

22 Dec -- Power hard bouldering
warmup - a few sets of several minutes on a pretty vertical spray wall
+
progressive bouldering up to V5's
notable climbs: V4x2, V5x2
+
hard bouldering about 4 attempts on 3 different V7s

23 Dec -- light lead blocks
warmup - fun with one legged squats on bosu ball and moving along a foam roller
+
10a, 10c, 10b
11a, 11b, 11a
11b(f), 10d, 10c

NOTES: that 11b was a huuuge traverse across the ice cream cone. Hard to find a window of opportunity for this one. Guess I gotta do the wait again :/

26 Dec -- easy slabby bouldering
warmup: various V2-V3s
+
?? some blue climb with a bathang finish, wonder if V4?
V4x4
V5x6
V6

27 - 28 Dec -- outdoor climbing
Jtree.
Sat. lead 10a mushroom crack (hand to offwidth), 10c uppercut (fell) horizontal hand crack on roof
Sun. followed 10c, lead 9+, followed 9




30 Dec - lead blocks
little different this time, did a 4-3-2-1 descending lead blocks
10b, 10c, 10c, 10d
11b(f). 10d, 11a(f?)
11a, 10c(down)
10c(f)

NOTES: 11a(f?) referring to me holding a jug of another climb to clip then immediately go back into holding the actual climb's hold. It was more of a moment of being scarred on not trusting my belayer (Alec, mostly because we haven't climbed together in a while, and I was getting short-roped a bit and just don't have enough experience falling with him as a catcher). The 3rd cycle was that amazing 11a roof climb and a down climb on the other end of the roof. The final 10c was that god-forsaken tough 10c I also fell on 12Dec.

Nov 2025

 1 Nov -- Outdoor climbing

2 evening climbs that were low 5 with direct starts that make it 10b/c. Did the direct starts. Both redpoints

2 Nov -- Outdoor climbing

2 attempts on evildoers (5.11-). VERY close on the first attempt. Clipped the last bolt and didn't have energy for the end. Found alternate beta so it should be easier next time

4 Nov -- Indoor bouldering
warmup traverses
+
bouldering V3 x 4, V4 x 8, V5 x 1

6 Nov -- lead blocks
w/u - spray wall movements, scapular pullups and light weight shoulder stuff
+
10b, 10d, 10d
11d, 11c(f), 10b
11c(f), 10c,10c

NOTES: not very good today. Also felt extra pumped during the last bouldering session. Too much anaerobic lactic training recently

9 Nov -- Hangboard Repeaters (1)

1 ----------------- 6S

2 ----------------- 5S-9 (-7.5)

3 ----------------- 3S-5-7-5  (-17.5) 

4 -----------------  0S-4-3-3-2-2-1(-50)

5 ----------------- 2S-3-5-3-3 (-30)

6 ----------------- 2S-9-4-5-5 (-15)

7 ----------------- 2S-6-5-3-2(-50)

8 ----------------- 4S-7-6 (-45) 

9 ----------------- 2S-7-6-4-4 (-35)
+
supplemental exercise:

slow ring pushups - 10
deadlift -10 (135)
slow ring pushups - 8
deadlift -8 (205)
slow ring pushups - 5
deadlift -5 (255)
slow ring pushups - 3
deadlift -3 (285)

slow ring pushups - 1
deadlift -1 (295)

NOTES: wow, it's been over 2 years sine my last hangboard session. Couldn't do it in China and didn't think to do it in that intervening time between Australia and China. Numbers are horrendous (switched back to lbs from here). I thought I was even being conservative, and adding more weight than the equivalent of the last hangboard session #1 I did in Jul 2023. Excuses: I'm using the rock prodigy, but it's a public one which feels much smoother than my own, either from friction wear of other people, heavy chalk, or a combination of both. Also surprising deadlift progression, I misread what I did last time and had:
8 (135), 5 (205), 3(255), 1(285). I remember the 1RM last time feeling desperate, but this time did it 3 times and also did a 1RM of 10lbs more this time

11 Nov -- lead blocks

10c, 10c, 10c

11d, 11a(f), 10c

11b, 11a(f), 10b

9 Nov -- Hangboard Repeaters (2)

1 ----------------- 6S

2 ----------------- 4S-8-5 (-10)

3 ----------------- 2S-7-6-5-5  (-20) 

4 -----------------  2S-4-5-3-2(-55)

5 ----------------- 2S-7-5-6-5 (-35)

6 ----------------- 2S-5-6-5-5 (-20)

7 ----------------- 2S-7-5-6-7(-60)

8 ----------------- 3S-5-7-6 (-50) 

9 ----------------- 2S-5-6-4-4 (-40)
+
supplemental exercise:
3 rnds of:

hanging leg raise (toe to bar) x5
one-arm overhead press 45 lbs  each
+
5 rapid overhand presses at: 25, 30, 31, 35, 40 lbs

NOTES: wow, so bad. Despite giving MORE counterweight. Excuses: During the warmup, I was traversing off tiny holds (avoiding jugs). I was gastoning off my left hand from a foot chip then I slipped and rapped by knuckle across the wall, got a painful bloody knuckle

16 Nov -- Hangboard Repeaters (3)

1 ----------------- 6S

2 ----------------- 6S (-12.5)

3 ----------------- 4S-8-6  (-25) 

4 -----------------  4S-4-4 (-60)

5 ----------------- 5S-6 (-40)

6 ----------------- 3S-7-8-6 (-25)

7 ----------------- 3S-6-7-6(-65)

8 ----------------- 4S-6-6 (-55) 

9 ----------------- 3S-7-6-7(-45)
+
supplemental exercise:

slow ring pushups - 10 (weight vest with 6 units)
deadlift -10 (140)
slow ring pushups - 8 (weight vest with 6 units)
deadlift -8 (210)
slow ring pushups - 5 (weight vest with 6 units)
deadlift -5 (260)
slow ring pushups - 3 (weight vest with 6 units)
deadlift -3 (290)

slow ring pushups - 1 (weight vest with 6 units)
deadlift -1 (300)

18 Nov -- waste of a day

Attempted another Hangboard session, but with the same or more counterweight, I was getting 4S (-12.5), 2S (-27.5), 2S(-65)... so I just stopped. Then I tried a single 11d on lead, apparently soft, fell at the crux then just left

20 Nov -- lead blocks

10b, 10d, 10d

11d*, 11b(f), 10d(f)

11a, 11a, 11a(f)

*This is the one I failed in the last session. still tough-ish, but soft for the grade

23 Nov -- power campus board

Matching ladders

(B1, L2,R2,L3,R3,L4,R4,L5,B5) (all large edge) 1,3

(B1, R2,L2,R3,L3,R4,L4,R5,B5) (all large edge) 2,4

1 5/8

2 2/8

3 6/8

4 2/8

Basic ladders 

(B1,L2,R3,L4,R5,L6,R7,L8,B8) (all large edge) 5,7

(B1,R2,L3,R4,L5,R6,L7,R8,B8) (all large edge) 6,8

1/8

1/8

2/8

2/8

____________________ 21/64

Notes: Much worse than my last try in July 2023 which was 50/64. So a lot of room for improvement

28 Nov -- Hangboard Repeaters (4)

1 ----------------- 6S

2 ----------------- 6S (-12.5)

3 ----------------- 5S-8  (-27.5) 

4 -----------------  4S-7-6 (-65)

5 ----------------- 3S-7-5-6 (-40)

6 ----------------- 4S-5-7 (-30)

7 ----------------- 3S-8-5-6(-67.5)

8 ----------------- 3S-7-6-6 (-57.5) 

9 ----------------- 3S-7-6-6(-47.5)
+
supplemental exercise:

Shoulder prehab with a 10-8-5-3-1 rep scheme on the lateral, posterior and anterior delts on the cables. (20,30,40,50,60 lbs)
+
kB clean and press. 5 - 3 - 1 (40,45,53 lbs)

NOTES: Only mild improvements or a little worse. I had so many days of rest, so I don't know why. It's possible this public hangboard really is just so slippery and screwed up from the years of chalk and people's skin oils

30 Nov - bouldering

Lots of climbing that doesn't matter, but here are the highlights:

v4x3

V5x7

V6x1

Oct 2025

 9 Oct -- lead blocks

10c, 10d, 10c
11b, 10d, 10c
11c, 11a, 10c



14 Oct -- lead blocks

10c,10c,10d
11c,10d,11a
11c(f),10c,10b

NOTES: first 11c was soft, next one was awkward

17 Oct -- lead blocks

10b,10c,11a
11c,11a,10c
11c(f),10c,11a

NOTES: this 11c was the same as the last one I failed on. Failed trying to make the final move to the anchor. So close!




19 Oct -- SE
slow ring pushups - 10
deadlift -8 (135)
slow ring pushups - 8
deadlift -5 (205)
slow ring pushups - 5
deadlift -3 (255)
slow ring pushups - 3
deadlift -1 (285)
fast ring pushups - 10
fast deadlift -10 (135)
+
a handful of climbs V3-V4



21 Oct -- lead blocks

10a, 10b, 11a
11b, 11a, 11a
11c, 11a, unkown (10d or 11a? orange in the corner, right end of speedwall, update later)




23 Oct -- lead blocks

10a, 10b, 10d
11d, 11c(f)*, 11a
11c, 11b, 11a

NOTES: * fell  after the last clip heading to the anchors, pretty okay for two upper 11's in a row, but I knew this one was kind of soft with all the fight just at the end




30 Oct -- hard bouldering
warmup traverssing
+
progressive boulder
+
4 V4's
+
attempts on a V7 

Sep 2025

I have a Sender One membership for  Life! So now I don't have to only come in on guest passes 

1 Sep -- lead blocks

10b 10b 10c
(2nd block don't remember at all)
10c 10b 11b(TR)



5 Sep -- lead blocks

10a 10b 10c
11a 10b 10a
10d 10a 10b
10d 10d 11d (TR)
+
some bouldering two V4's among some others

16 Sep -- lead blocks

10a, 10b, 10d
12a(f*), 10b, 10c
11a, 10d, 10d

notes: *it was on lead, but it was a dihedral which are easier. A silly fall by me doing a risky foot swap and not seeing an easier handhold very nearby.



18 sep -- lead blocks
warmup: pullups, playing around on a hangboard and some traversing challenges on the boulder wall
10b, 10c, 10d
11b, 10d, 10b
11a(f), 10b, 10d




24 Sep -- lead blocks
10b, 10b, 11a
11b, 11a, 10c
11b, 10b, 10d

26 Sep -- lead blocks
10c, 10d?*, 11a
11c, 11a, 10c
11b, 12a, 11d TR (f)

NOTES: maybe a teency bit of finger pain after today. It's been generally good, but I might have pushed it a little far. No single incident or anything. * 10d is best guess, The route isn't labeled. The 12a was a lead dihedral




28 Sep -- SE + bouldering
supplemental exercises:
w/u
deadhang ~ 75 sec
1 min row
50 sec
1 min row
1 min half squat on bosu ball
+
-cable pulls on each shoulder (side, then front, then back)
-squats
8 - 6 - 4 rep scheme with increasing weight
(cable pulls - 10, 20, 30. squats - 135, 185, 205)
+
two lead climbs warmup (11b, 12a dihedral)
+
3 hrs bouldering (Mainly aiming for V4 and V5)




30 Sep -- lead blocks
10c, 10d, 11a
11a, 10d,  10d
11c(f), 10a, 11a(f)

NOTES: on the last 11a, I did about half through an overhang, then devolved to rainbowing up mostly low 10 territory

Aug 2025

On two separate occasions this month I did 100 pushups just to do some exercising 





31 Aug -- blocks

first time back in a while, gingerly weighting the finger

9 10a 10a
10b 10b 10c
10c 10c 10c

NOTES: a little pain during the last 10c because I was tired

Jul 2025

 2 Jul -- Bouldering

warmup: 20-30 mins repeating many boulders up to V4
+
more climbs to V4, and V5 (3 new V4s)

5 Jul -- power

15-20 min traversing
+
Alpha wall
@5
V1 x3
V2 x1
V3 x3
@10
V1 x1
V2 x1
@15
V3 x4
V4 x1
+
TR
11c (near finish, fell 2-3 moves from top), 10c
(rest)
10d, 10a, 10b, 10c, 10a

NOTES: stuck to using mostly my MRP on the right hand to prevent straining the right index. Pretty good today, no issues

June 2025

 1 Jun -- ARC
4 rounds:

20m, 15m, 15m, 10m

NOTES: some finger pain over the previous days. No pain today during climb, but a bit of soreness afterwards. Ended 10 m on the last round because I tore a flapper :[

4 Jun -- light climbing

warmup: traversing on boulder wall
+
10c UD, 10b UD,  rest,   10aUD,9UD, 9UD, 8UD

 


14 Jun -- light bouldering
1 hour working up to some V3's and a few V4's (including a new one. Balancy, flash)
+

10c UD, 10b UD




11 Jun -- power (moderate)
Alpha wall climbing
@10
    V0 x 2
    V1 x 7
    V2 x 6
    V3 x 1
@15
    V2 x 1
    V3 x 1
    V4 x 1
NOTES: fairly successful. No major tweaks. Mostly the pain in the last few days was in the right index PIP. I think it's getting better each time.

15 Jun -- bouldering (moderate)
20-30 min warmup climbing various V1-V3
+
V4 attempts (2 new, successful)
V5 attempts (last move stuck)





18 Jun -- aerobic endurance

3 rounds of mostly constant climbing up then down (UD) on autobelays:
5.8 UD, 5.9 UD, 10c UD
10c UD, 10b UD
10a UD, 10b UD, 10b UD

Notes: right index gradually improving

21 Jun -- bouldering
New set
V1-V3 warmups

+
V4 x ?? 4 ??
V5 x ?? 3??






26 Jun -- bouldering
Autobelay w/u:
5.9 UD, 10c UD, 5.9 UD
10b UD, 10a UD, 5.8 UD
+
V3-V5
V4 x 4 (one new)
V5 x3

29 Jun -- endurance

Autobelay only:
5.9 UD, 10c UD, 5.9 UD
10b UD, 10a UD, 5.8 UD
10c UD, 10b UD, 10a UD, 5.9 UD, 5.9 UD, 5.8 UD

Notes: finger still hurts

May 2025

 1 May - endurance

On autobelay continuous other than switching times (represented with comma), a - means immediate. Up then down unless otherwise noted
8 - 9,        10a - 9,        10c -10b

rest 10 mins

10b U - 10c D - 10c U - 10b D,          9U - 8 D - 8U - 9D,           9U - 10a D - 10a U - 9 D

NOTE: I did this on 16 Apr as well. Felt a bit easier this time. i.e. I wasn't fully wiped  from the 2nd round after the wall with the 10s

3 May - Power
W/U: 20 min traversing + several V2,V3 climbs
+
alpha wall
@10
V2 x3
V3 x 3
V4 x 2  <--- one of these was really hard
@15
V1
V2 x2
V4 x4

5 May - regular climbing
w/u: 20 min traversing + various climbs up V4
+
V5 projects
Attempted 3, got 1 

7 May - power endurance
w/u: 4 laps up and down autobelay (10a,b)
+
various attempts on V4-V5 (two new V4's sucessful)
+
power endurance (5 rounds) DC 2:2
up V4, down VB, up V3, down V0, up V3, down V0, shake out on undercling until timer

NOTES: almost all rounds successful except for a slip on the V4 during the 4th round

10 May - outdoor climbing
Multipitch - BaiHe. 
2 routes:
(二零一二)------ 6p (5.8-5.9)
(青龙)  ---------- 8p (9,10a,0,101,9,10b,+2 pitches 4th class)

NOTES: left my phone basically up the mountain, so after the hike down, I had to hike back up then down




11 May - Regular climbing
~20 mins warmup boulder ladders V2-V3
+
V5 attempts - 3 sucessful!

NOTES: These 3 climbs I failed each previously. two had a dynamic start component, I essentially flashed or 2nd go'd them once I landed the dynamic component. The other I flashed. (I flashed for the day, technically not a flash because I had tried previously)

14 May -- hard bouldering
~20 min warmup V1-V3 + some new V4
+
alpha wall
@0
V0 x 2
V1 x 7
V2 x 1
V3 x 2
@30
V1
V3 x 2
V4 x 3

NOTES: Started out really, really tired. Even after I finished warming up, I thought the day was gonna be over real fast. But after starting the alpha board training and needing to squeeze hard, my spirit picked up

17 May -- power endurance
new protocol: 30-30s
(set the alpha wall, climb for 30 seconds on fast and intense climbing, like a quasi-sprint, and 30 seconds off resting for several rounds)
warmup - 20 mins wall traversing + various V2-V3 warmups
+
30-30's on alpha wall
 @15.  4 rounds 30-30

NOTES: was aiming for 6 rounds, but my right right finger (PIP, more towards pinky end) was hurting a bit, so I called it after the 4thround. I actually felt it a little during the warmup.

21 May -- rope climbing
warmup: 
nearly constant UD 4 routes 5.8-5.10a
+
mix of lead and TR climbing
10c,10b, 11a(TR, fail, quite hard), 10c, 10d(TR)

NOTES: PIP pain felt a little during warmup and after the 11a attempt. Felt much better than last time for sure

24 May -- bouldering
warmup: progressive w/u V1-V3
+
V4 x 6 
V5 x 1

NOTES: No pain at all on my right ring PIP. Small pain in my thumb's join, but probably not a big deal

28 May -- TR and autobelay
nearly constant UD 4 routes 5.8-5.10a
+
10c UD (failed at end of down climb), 10b U
+
TR climbing
10c,10b (back to back)
two 10a-ish climbs back to back) (ish because created on the spot by combining portions of different climbs

NOTES: actually maybe the thumb pain was a big deal, I felt it over the intervening rest days. Also in my ring index PIP both on right hand. Thus today I did the lighter session to get blood flow and steer clear of max effort moves

Apr 2025

 2 Apr -- power endurance

warmup: ~20 mins on the bouldering wall (vertical) non-stop traversing/ climbing in Ws
+
A few V3s and V4s
+
V5 (the one I struggled with last time, I 1st go'd it today.*
+
5 rounds 2:2 DC
V4 up, V3 down, V3 up, V0 down, Mix V2/3 up, V1 down


NOTES: *The V5 wasn't smooth at the end, but I held it together. Will try to smoothen it out and hold it together. The main workout was pretty good, wall was slightly overhanging in th first 4 and vertical in the last 2. Surprised at how well controlled it was even at the last round

5 Apr -- bad climbing

Intended to do some bouldering, warmed up to a V4, worked on two V5's, but then suddenly, I got this cramp in my upper mid back (slightly to the right of center). Any amount of squeezing was just a bit too painful. So I left.

NOTES: maybe as a result of seeing random facebook ads show up, I saw some videos of "movement by david" encouraging you to "stay flexy" and given today's "incident", it inspired me to do some sitting on the floor, random (and weird) stretching. Moving my spine like a snake, putting my feet up on a chair in a sort of "raised feet crab walk pose". I might do some more of this several times a day. Gotta stay youthfully flexible.

9 Apr -- endurance
Short session, up and down each route on each autobelay, this time starting from the middle, then the easier ones to "rest a bit" before trying the last ones. No success on the down climb of the 10d (no help from an early fall and restart), but the 10c shortly after yes.

12 Apr -- power

Warumup: random traversing and bouldering to V3
+
alpha wall @50 degrees

V1
V2 x 6
V3
+ several attempts on several V4s, quite hard

NOTES: At first I felt that middle back/neck pain on even simple warmups, but it went away though fortunately, at least it didn't hurt when I was trying the alpha wall. I feel the pressure though still now.

16 Apr -- endurance
On autobelay continuous other than switching times (represented with comma), a - means immediate. Up then down unless otherwise noted
8 - 9,        10a - 9,        10c -10b

rest 5-10 mins

10b U - 10c D - 10c U - 10b D,          9U - 8 D - 8U - 9D,           9U - 10a D - 10a U - 9 D


NOTES: in total, counting the down pitches, it's 24 pitches for about two 12-pitch rounds. Though it was tiring, felt nearly power-endurancy at times. Definitely above around the aerobic limit

19 Apr -- some bouldering

Not a lot of focus today because I was hanging out with the kid. Warmed up, then worked on a V5 which has a big dyno in the beginning followed by powerful pinchy volumes. I did better today than last week because 3 of the 4 times I tried, I could catch the dyno
+
Swimming
Mostly enjoyable, But I did 1 round of 5 minutes continuous. I did 5 laps in those 5 minutes.

24 Apr -- power

Warmup: 20 minutes spread betweeen traversing the alpha wall @8 degrees and the vertical wall to the side
+
alpha wall @20:
several attempts over 30 minutes on 2 hard problems. No success on either
(listed actually as V3 but it felt like V5/6)
+
flashing cooldown routes @20 on alpha wall:
V3
V2x10
V1x2

NOTES: I'm not sure if the routes set at the 20 degree are hard or if I'm weak today. I did V2s and 3s less than 2 weeks ago on the 50 degree angle.

26 -- regular bouldering

warmup new V1-V3's up and down, plus some V4's
+
sampling all the V5's, a V6 and V7 (flashed one V5 because it was slabby)

Mar 2025

 After a 3 month break post surgery, I'm going to climb again

15 Mar - Light day 

Climbing up and down autobelays 5.8-5.10c. Some bouldering V1-V2

NOTES: No pain, but I still want to gently ease into things. Skin is overly sensitive though

16 Mar - Light day

Climbing up and down autobelays 5.8-5.10c. Some bouldering V2-V3 + 1 balancy V4

19 Mar - endurance - Autobelay

8 - UD
10a - UD
10b - UD
9 - UD
10d
10c
10d - U half D
10c - U 3/4D
10b - UD
9 - UD
10a - UD
8 - UD

------ 21 pitches plus the attempted down and 3/4 down for the 10c and 10d

22 Mar - light climbing

10d - UD
10c - UD

+ all boulders V1-V3 in the gym

23 Mar -- less light climbing

V1-V3 warmups

All v4s (5)
Several attempts on a V5. no send though

NOTES: elbow pain. 3 days per week for 2 weeks in a row probably too much too soon

29 Mar -- harder climbing

V3-V4 warmups
Many attempts on V5 (close, no send)
+
alpha wall climbing
@15 degrees:
V2
V3 x2
V4

30 Mar -- recovery endurance

8 - UD
10a - UD
10b - UD
9 - UD
10d
10c
10d
10c
10b 
9
10a
8

+ 5 sets of 20 pushups (a few minutes between sets)

NOTES: elbow pain, like last weekend