1 Feb -- Hangboard Repeaters (5)
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-8) .5 lbs drops
3 ----------------- 6S (-16.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-42) .5 lb drops
5 ----------------- 6S (-26) .5 lb drops) -- so tough!
6 ----------------- 6S (-12) .5 lb drops -- so tough!
7 ----------------- 6S (-42) .5 lb drops -- so tough!
8 ----------------- 6S (-31.5)
9 ----------------- 5S-9 (-24)
+
moderate climbing 3 blocks of 3-2-1:
10b, 10a, 10c
11b, 11a
10d
+
light bouldering
V4x4
V5x2
4 Feb -- Hangboard Repeaters (6)
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 5S-9 (-7.5)
3 ----------------- 5S-7 (-15.5)
4 ----------------- 5S-5 (-41.5)
5 ----------------- 6S (-25.5)
6 ----------------- 5S-8 (-11.5)
7 ----------------- 5S-5 (-41.5)
8 ----------------- 5S-9 (-30.5)
9 ----------------- 5S-8 (-24)
+
SE
3 sets of
- 22s floor L-sits (legs straight forward, focus on straight legs)
- 10 pushups (with arms out. Feet raised to about hip height, crashpad on end)
mixed with (between, so a total of 2 sets):
- 2 sets 10 wrist curls (regular and reverse) - 10lbs
- 2 sets 10 pronation & supination - 5 lbs
NOTES: Drop in performance? Probably because I went to school for breakfast events, so it wasn't a first-thing-in-the-morning kind of thing
7 Feb -- power campus board
warmup:
20 mins ARCing (on spray wall in completely certical position)
+
30 mins WBL V1x3, V2x3, V3x4, V4x4
(all flash except last V4 which was 3 attempts). Two attempts on a V5
+
10 mins hard bouldering. two V6 problems.
(1st send after 3rd go, 2nd, couldn't even leave the ground)
+
Matching ladders
(B1, L2,R2,L3,R3,L4,R4,L5,B5) (all large edge) 1,3
(B1, R2,L2,R3,L3,R4,L4,R5,B5) (all large edge) 2,4
1 8/8
2 8/8
3 8/8
4 8/8
Basic ladders
(B1,L2,R3,L4,R5,L6,R7,L8,B8) (all large edge) 5,7
(B1,R2,L3,R4,L5,R6,L7,R8,B8) (all large edge) 6,8
8/8
6/8
8/8
5/8
____________________ 59/64
+
SE
3 sets of
- 22-25s straight leg parellete L-sits (actual: 22-25-24)
- 8 ring dips pushups (actual: 8-8-7)
mixed with wrist rehab (between, so a total of 2 sets):
- 2 sets 10 wrist curls (regular and reverse) - 10lbs
- 2 sets 10 pronation & supination - 3.5 lbs (not 5, but the lever arm was longer because I used the gym's equipment today)
NOTES: Wow! Significant improvement over the last time. But also, I apparently misremembered the rep range. It's actually supposed to be 6 reps each set. Man what a pleasant surprise. I think this means I can do the actual prescribed workout where the first two sets of each ladder block of four is supposed to be on the large edge (1.25") and the 2nd is supposed to be the medium edge. (1")
8 Feb -- moderates (blocks)
- unknown (sub 10? ), 10a, unknown (sub 10?)
- 11a, 10d, 10a
- 11c, 10b, 11b
10 Feb -- limit bouldering
10 min - ARC warmup
30 min - Warmup boulder ladders (WBL) V1x4, V2x4, V3x3, V4x3 *
30 min - hard bouldering V5, V6 (both flash), V5 (flash), V6x2 (attempts)
30 min - limit bouldering V8 (3 attempts), V8 (1 attempts)
Cooldown on yellow v3
NOTES: WBL *Due to route setting and me going to the smaller gym, there were only 3 Vs's and 3 V4s available. A little scatterbrained today because my mom was present and I was trying to give her an interesting time. Also much of the boulder area being shutdown for setting and some unmarked climbs made me unsure. Slight pain in my right ring DIP area. Be careful
12 Feb -- Hangboard Repeaters (7)
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-7.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-15.5)
4 ----------------- 4S-4-9 (-41.5)
5 ----------------- 6S (-25.5)
6 ----------------- 5S-9 (-11.5)
7 ----------------- 5S-9 (-41.5)
8 ----------------- 6S (-30.5)
9 ----------------- 5S-7 (-24)
+
3 sets of
- 25s straight leg parellete L-sits (legs spread in a light V)
- 10 raised leg pushups
mixed with wrist rehab (between, so a total of 2 sets):
- 2 sets 10 wrist curls (regular and reverse) - 10lbs
- 2 sets 10 pronation & supination - 5 lbs
15 Feb -- power campus board
warmup:
20 mins ARCing (on spray wall in completely vertical position)
+
30 mins WBL V1x4, V2x4, V3x4, V4x4
+
10 mins hard bouldering. Attempts on a V5 (no send)
+
Matching ladders
(B1, L2,R2,L3,R3,L4,R4,L5,B5) (all large edge) 1,3
(B1, R2,L2,R3,L3,R4,L4,R5,B5) (all large edge) 2,4
1 8/8
2 8/8
3 8/8
4 8/8
Basic ladders
(B1,L2,R3,L4,R5,L6,R7,L8,B8) (all large edge) 5,7
(B1,R2,L3,R4,L5,R6,L7,R8,B8) (all large edge) 6,8
8/8
8/8
8/8
8/8
____________________ 64/64
+
light lead blocks 3 sets of 2 all under 5.11
+
Sauna 25 mins
NOTES: A perfect campus workout! I decided to stay with the large edge because I didn't want to exacerbate the recent right ring finger DIP stress. After each round, I felt a little pain when I bent the finger, but not terribly so.
18 Feb -- limit bouldering
10 min - ARC warmup
30 min - Warmup boulder ladders (WBL) V1x4, V2x4, V3x4, V4x4
30 min - hard bouldering V5x3 (sent all. Flashed the middle one)
30 min - limit bouldering. V8 pinches, V6 roof (no sends)
+
3 sets of
- 25s straight leg parellete L-sits (straight legs)
- 8 ring dips
mixed with wrist rehab (between, so a total of 2 sets):
- 2 sets 8 wrist curls (regular and reverse) - 10lbs - 5
- 2 sets 8 pronation & supination - 2.5 lbs
NOTES: reducing the weight and the rep count for the wrist rehab because it's been bothering me more recently. Getting hurt rehabing would suck
21 Feb -- power endurance
warmup: lead blocks
10c, 10d, 11a
10d, 11a, 11b
11b(f), 11a(f), 10d
+
LBC
6 rounds ~ 2:4 DC
up V3, down V0, up V3, down V0, up V2, down decent route
----okay for first 2, maybe most of the 3rd round. But the next 2, I had to do the V2 twice instead of the V3 and on the last round, couldn't do the V2 and so did the V0 instead
+
cooldown
15 minutes massage & stretch, 15 mins arc, sauna ~ 2 "rounds" of 15 mins with cold shower between @200F (sat low so hopefully it wouldn't be that hot)
So I just started JiuJitsu, a year membership. Hopefully it won't interfere with climbing and more importantly, won't result in injury.
23 Feb -- JiuJitsu + light climbing
2 hours
+
(a few hours later)
lead blocks
10c, 10d, 10d
11a, unknown green, 10b
11a, 10a, 10b
24 Feb -- power endurance
ARC - 15 mins
WBL - 15 mins (V1x3, V2x3, V3x3, V4X2)
hard bouldering - 20 mins (V5 flash, V6 3 attempts, v5 3 attempts)
LBC DC 2:1 - on spray wall @20 degrees. Up a green route, down jugs, traverse right on underclings, up black.
NOTES: barely got 1:30 on the circuit. It was tiring and I got TWO flappers (one finger, one on the "jug rail")
27 Feb -- RP attempts
WBL: V1-V4 3 each. + 2 V5's + 1 V6
+
3 attempts on a 12c and one 11c (no send on any)
28 Feb -- RP attempts
random bouldering warmup
+
10d, 11b (block of 2)
+
RP attempts of some hard climbs
-11d (overhanging "cone" of AV's gym)
-12b
-12a
------------------(all falls/hangs multiple times)
+
11a cooldown
+
2 sets in the sauna @170 (20mins, 15 mins)
