Nov 2025

 1 Nov -- Outdoor climbing

2 evening climbs that were low 5 with direct starts that make it 10b/c. Did the direct starts. Both redpoints

2 Nov -- Outdoor climbing

2 attempts on evildoers (5.11-). VERY close on the first attempt. Clipped the last bolt and didn't have energy for the end. Found alternate beta so it should be easier next time

4 Nov -- Indoor bouldering
warmup traverses
+
bouldering V3 x 4, V4 x 8, V5 x 1

6 Nov -- lead blocks
w/u - spray wall movements, scapular pullups and light weight shoulder stuff
+
10b, 10d, 10d
11d, 11c(f), 10b
11c(f), 10c,10c

NOTES: not very good today. Also felt extra pumped during the last bouldering session. Too much anaerobic lactic training recently

9 Nov -- Hangboard Repeaters (1)

1 ----------------- 6S

2 ----------------- 5S-9 (-7.5)

3 ----------------- 3S-5-7-5  (-17.5) 

4 -----------------  0S-4-3-3-2-2-1(-50)

5 ----------------- 2S-3-5-3-3 (-30)

6 ----------------- 2S-9-4-5-5 (-15)

7 ----------------- 2S-6-5-3-2(-50)

8 ----------------- 4S-7-6 (-45) 

9 ----------------- 2S-7-6-4-4 (-35)
+
supplemental exercise:

slow ring pushups - 10
deadlift -10 (135)
slow ring pushups - 8
deadlift -8 (205)
slow ring pushups - 5
deadlift -5 (255)
slow ring pushups - 3
deadlift -3 (285)

slow ring pushups - 1
deadlift -1 (295)

NOTES: wow, it's been over 2 years sine my last hangboard session. Couldn't do it in China and didn't think to do it in that intervening time between Australia and China. Numbers are horrendous (switched back to lbs from here). I thought I was even being conservative, and adding more weight than the equivalent of the last hangboard session #1 I did in Jul 2023. Excuses: I'm using the rock prodigy, but it's a public one which feels much smoother than my own, either from friction wear of other people, heavy chalk, or a combination of both. Also surprising deadlift progression, I misread what I did last time and had:
8 (135), 5 (205), 3(255), 1(285). I remember the 1RM last time feeling desperate, but this time did it 3 times and also did a 1RM of 10lbs more this time

11 Nov -- lead blocks

10c, 10c, 10c

11d, 11a(f), 10c

11b, 11a(f), 10b

9 Nov -- Hangboard Repeaters (2)

1 ----------------- 6S

2 ----------------- 4S-8-5 (-10)

3 ----------------- 2S-7-6-5-5  (-20) 

4 -----------------  2S-4-5-3-2(-55)

5 ----------------- 2S-7-5-6-5 (-35)

6 ----------------- 2S-5-6-5-5 (-20)

7 ----------------- 2S-7-5-6-7(-60)

8 ----------------- 3S-5-7-6 (-50) 

9 ----------------- 2S-5-6-4-4 (-40)
+
supplemental exercise:
3 rnds of:

hanging leg raise (toe to bar) x5
one-arm overhead press 45 lbs  each
+
5 rapid overhand presses at: 25, 30, 31, 35, 40 lbs

NOTES: wow, so bad. Despite giving MORE counterweight. Excuses: During the warmup, I was traversing off tiny holds (avoiding jugs). I was gastoning off my left hand from a foot chip then I slipped and rapped by knuckle across the wall, got a painful bloody knuckle

16 Nov -- Hangboard Repeaters (3)

1 ----------------- 6S

2 ----------------- 6S (-12.5)

3 ----------------- 4S-8-6  (-25) 

4 -----------------  4S-4-4 (-60)

5 ----------------- 5S-6 (-40)

6 ----------------- 3S-7-8-6 (-25)

7 ----------------- 3S-6-7-6(-65)

8 ----------------- 4S-6-6 (-55) 

9 ----------------- 3S-7-6-7(-45)
+
supplemental exercise:

slow ring pushups - 10 (weight vest with 6 units)
deadlift -10 (140)
slow ring pushups - 8 (weight vest with 6 units)
deadlift -8 (210)
slow ring pushups - 5 (weight vest with 6 units)
deadlift -5 (260)
slow ring pushups - 3 (weight vest with 6 units)
deadlift -3 (290)

slow ring pushups - 1 (weight vest with 6 units)
deadlift -1 (300)

18 Nov -- waste of a day

Attempted another Hangboard session, but with the same or more counterweight, I was getting 4S (-12.5), 2S (-27.5), 2S(-65)... so I just stopped. Then I tried a single 11d on lead, apparently soft, fell at the crux then just left

20 Nov -- lead blocks

10b, 10d, 10d

11d*, 11b(f), 10d(f)

11a, 11a, 11a(f)

*This is the one I failed in the last session. still tough-ish, but soft for the grade

23 Nov -- power campus board

Matching ladders

(B1, L2,R2,L3,R3,L4,R4,L5,B5) (all large edge) 1,3

(B1, R2,L2,R3,L3,R4,L4,R5,B5) (all large edge) 2,4

1 5/8

2 2/8

3 6/8

4 2/8

Basic ladders 

(B1,L2,R3,L4,R5,L6,R7,L8,B8) (all large edge) 5,7

(B1,R2,L3,R4,L5,R6,L7,R8,B8) (all large edge) 6,8

1/8

1/8

2/8

2/8

____________________ 21/64

Notes: Much worse than my last try in July 2023 which was 50/64. So a lot of room for improvement

28 Nov -- Hangboard Repeaters (4)

1 ----------------- 6S

2 ----------------- 6S (-12.5)

3 ----------------- 5S-8  (-27.5) 

4 -----------------  4S-7-6 (-65)

5 ----------------- 3S-7-5-6 (-40)

6 ----------------- 4S-5-7 (-30)

7 ----------------- 3S-8-5-6(-67.5)

8 ----------------- 3S-7-6-6 (-57.5) 

9 ----------------- 3S-7-6-6(-47.5)
+
supplemental exercise:

Shoulder prehab with a 10-8-5-3-1 rep scheme on the lateral, posterior and anterior delts on the cables. (20,30,40,50,60 lbs)
+
kB clean and press. 5 - 3 - 1 (40,45,53 lbs)

NOTES: Only mild improvements or a little worse. I had so many days of rest, so I don't know why. It's possible this public hangboard really is just so slippery and screwed up from the years of chalk and people's skin oils

30 Nov - bouldering

Lots of climbing that doesn't matter, but here are the highlights:

v4x3

V5x7

V6x1