1 Dec Climbing comp
No training
-w/u 10 min Arc traverse, 10 min boulder ladders
-Did my 3 climbs
Notes: Elbow pain (either not enough warmup, or 2 days in a row, like last week, is just too much for me right now)
+
Antagonists
-some pushups
-3x5 eccentric lowers (35 lb KB... I think?)
-4x10 hammer outer tilts
-elbow stretching
4 Dec -- redpoint attempts
W/u. 15 min ARC
Redpoint attempts:
11a (got it, the first chosen project, first
Try :D )
11b (the green one, made 3 attempts)
11b (new, black, project worthy for sure
2 failed attempts, gonna try again)
+
3x5 eccentric lowers (24 kg)
7 Dec -- redpoint attemps
w/u 40 mins climbing easy to moderate routes (finally got that stupid pink 10c)
Redpoint attempts:
11b (green, got it first try today)
11b (black, one try, not much progress)
11b (blue, new one, very tough even at bottom)
? 11b-12a, unknown yellow (got a decent way up, definitely tiny holds, quite hard)
8 Dec -- redpoint attemps
w/u 30-40 minutes easy to moderate routes
Redpoint attempts:
11c (new one. Orange one, one very tricky spot, haven't figured it out)
11c x2 (new one. Yellow, can do all the moves individually, haven't figured it all out together)
c/d 10d (fall), crack and dihedral (fall x2)
Notes: Slight bit of elbow pain, not terrible though. Still feeling really strong on dynamic crimp grabs
11 Dec -- 3x4's at SenderOne
3 rounds of 4 leads
round 1: 10c (dihedral), 10b (overhang),10c,10d
round 2: 11c (fell 1 draw from top, then again), 10c, 11a (fell twice in middle, lowered) 10c (hung)
round 3: thin hand crack (fell half way. shoes are destroyed), hand crack x 1.2, 11c dihedral (1 fall)
14 Dec -- 3x4's at SenderOne
Round 1: 10b,10c,10d,11a
Round 2: 11c (2 falls), 11a(1 fall draw),10b, 11b (soft)
Round 3: 11b (hang), 10d, 10c, 10b
+
1 dehedral, 11c
18 Dec -- 3x4's at SenderOne
Round 1: 10b, 10d, 11a, 10d
Round 2: 11c*, 11a (fall last draw), 10d (fall last draw), 10c
Round 3: 11b, 11b, 10d, 10c
19 Dec - Antagonists and cardio
3 sets of circuit:
8-10 TRX pikes
10 slow dips
6 1 arm rows (Mikayla-assisted 1 arm pullup practice last round)
+
Swim
w/u 100m
-5 min kicks only
-5 min arms only
-5 min kick only
-5 min arms only
20 Dec - aerobic activity
1 mile run - 6:05
+
Swim
w/u 200m
-5 min kicks only
-5 min arms only
-5 min kick only
-5 min arms only
-5 min freestyle
c/d flipturn practice
22 Dec -- 3x4s ar Sendsr One
Round 1: 10b,10d, 11a, 11a (no fall. Shaky)
Round 2 :11c (soft, onsight), 10d, 10c ,10b
Round 3 : 11d (fall), 11b (fall), 10c, 11b (1 fall)
28 Dec - Swim
20 mins of:
200 yard freestyle
50 yard sidestroke
------------3 rounds (~15 secsonds remained)<15s p="" remaining="">
Headache after the swim
29 Dec -- conditioning and swimming
3 rounds 6-8 reps of
-IYT's ---10 lbs
-seated leg raises
-hanging leg raises (slow and toes to bar)
+
Swim
w/u. 100 yards
2 rounds on the 130
75 yards
50
50
25 sprint
1 round
50
50
50
50 sprint
C/d
3 rounds
50 fs kick
50 egg beater
30 Dec
5 rounds:
25 free. 25 p 25 s*
50 free, 35 p 35 s*
25 sprint
1.5 min rest
* first round was 25,35 then 20,30 ... all the way to 5,15. So the overall went 60+50+40+30+20 = 200
Puked at the end of this... really hard, headache
Saturday, December 1, 2018
Friday, November 2, 2018
Nov 2018
2 Nov
Campusing
ARC 15 min
WBL 20 min (worked in the climbing team wall, up to low b20's)
Hard Bouldering 10 min (worked two, b28,b29, got one of them)
Moonboarding (my sub for hangboarding) ~30min
+
SE
core stuff (3 sets 20 slow, low, leg lifts + 30 back extensions)
3 supersets of:
- one arm rows on bar (25lb) -5,3,4
- shoulder raises (out to in) (20lb) -3,3,3
4 Nov
Limit Bouldering in MAC
ARC 30 min
WBL 30 min (worked up to about V3)
Hard bouldering 30 min (worked on: V3+,V3+,V4... came close on one of the V3+s)
+
SE
HSPU - 2,1,5,3 (first two on raised dumbells, the rest on floor)
dumbell rows (standing vertically pulling up) 5 reps, 50-75-75
some core stuff and antagonists: 10 reps with 10 lbs outward rotation,attempted some...front levers, one leg out
6 Nov
Limit Bouldering in MAC
ARC 30min
WBL 30min
Hard bouldering 30 min
Notes: topped out a V3 first time that was shutting me down last workout. Also latched the 2nd to last hold on a V2 that was also shutting me down. A former V3 I fell on a few times end of October was quite easy this time around. Al this despite tired forearms. Feeling pretty good about all this training
:D
+
SE
-IYT's (i.e. front, middle and lateral raises) 3x2 20lb
-weighted pullups 40-50-50 (5 reps each)
-Turkish getups 3x3 ea arm (60 lbs)
-core (15 mins with anna. 1 minute of each exercise that changes. A variety including: bicycles, V ups, candlesticks, windshield wipers, planks and side planks, boxer situps, flutter kicks with a break on the 5th and 10th minute.)
aha moment:
I hate ab stuff because it's painful and enduring. However, today I found out that this type of training to destroy your abs and get you winded isn't the best for climbing. It's better to do shorter but intense exercises (less that 10 reps)
-Leg raises (hanging and sitting lifting your legs from the floor)
-"Hard planks" (pulse and exhale with max effort 10 times)
-front levers
-ab wheel
-one knee raise to max mobility
(more ideas to come soon)
-pike tucks on rings or TRX (feet on trx, start in pushup position, drive hip up while piking in)
9 Nov
"Campusing"
ARC 20 min in the MAC
boulder ladders on the climbing team wall 30 min *
hard bouldering 10 min
Moon board ~40 min**
*Improvements! one of the climbs I never succeeded on during the last time (2 Nov) and this time I got it first go!
**The first main problem we worked on (2 Nov) and didnt' succeed then, but I got it first go today!
+
SE
weighted dips (4x3 60 lbs)
3 sets of 3 1-arm negatives
POWER ENDURANCE PHASE
consists of redpoint attempts, route intervals, and Linked Boulder Circuits (LBC)
LBC is choosing 3-4 boulder pr0blems, climbing up one, down something easier, up the next... etc testing on jugs if necessary between each. A duty cycle (work to rest ratio) is chosen (4:2 for example implies a circuit lasts ~ 4 minutes long then resting for half that time, ~2 mins)
13 Nov
Linked Boulder Circuits (LBC)
15 min ARC traverse warmup
15 min ladders
20 min hard bouldering
LBC, DC 2:4
Did a V4, V3 and V2 *
Did 5 rounds accidentally, intended for
only 4. Did the first 2 rounds successfully.
On 3rd round, fell on the V3, cheated past
And finished it off. On the 4th round, fell
On the 3 (cheated past) and the 2 (ended)
Same with the 5th round.
* Notes: solid improvement! The 3 and 4 were actually once apart of my hard bouldering the first week, so they've been promoted! Will try this same one next week for 4 rounds to compare for improvement.
16 Nov
Redpoint attempts
1 hour warmup (10 mins ARCing, the rest working up moderates 10a-10c)
attempted 2 problems. 11a's (3 tries on one, 2 on the other) Can get by with just one fall each
17 Nov
Redpoint attempts
hour long warmup (+20 min bike ride to the gym)
Tried the two problems from last night. I'm one move from the top on one (3 times in a row!). Then I got the other one first go. Bad technique though. It can be improved for sure
Felt some elbow pain, the 2 days in a row don't help. Followed up with stretching and outer hammer twists (2.5 lb weight at end of DB). Rubber bands as well
20 Nov LBC
15 min ARC w/u (autobelays)
15 min WBL*
20 min hard bouldering
LBC
same set as last time with 2:4 DC
Did 4 sets. I did the first 3 completely, but
Unlike last time, I didn't get the V4 on the
Last attempt. Still improvement I'd say.
10 min ARC c/d
*did that hard purple V2 I kept falling on :]
Notes: slight remnant of tendonitis. Did some pushups, hammer twists, and rubber band extensions
23 Nov
Climbing at SenderOne
Supersets, with little rest between
10b, 11b, 10d,10d (very soft 11b though)
10b,11c*,10d**
11a,11b***8
*one clip from top
**one hang, pumped
***fell from top, could not clip anchors, but I made some good progress. Thought I was gonna fall 2 clips from the top, but I managed to push to the top
+
SE
4x10 seated leg raises
3 sets shoulder press
40lb, reps: 4,3,4
One arm slow lowers and assisted one arm pullups (Mikayla pushed up)
NOTES: overt improvement from my last time at sender, definitely improving. No elbow pain :)
27 Nov -- Route Intervals
20 min ARC w/u
15 min boulderladders
4 rounds on a 10d (DC 2:4)
Each round was about 1.5 total laps up
the wall. The very first lap I made it all the
way to the top, the others I made it to but
not necessarily past the crux. The 2nd half
I would usually fail just before the crux.
It may be a little too hard?
Cooldown on 2 moderates
30 Nov -- Red point attempts
20 mins ARC
20 mins working up moderates (10b, 10c)
Redpoint attempts on two 11bs
(one, has a dyno in it, couldn't complete all the moves, other: Can do it with 1-2 hangs, just have to link it all. Nice and dynamic)
+
antagonits, pushups, rubber band extensions, outward rotations
Note: Feeling strong, 2nd route especially is quite dynamic on not the greatest holds. Interesting side note: despite feeling stronger, I failed on 2 10c's during the warmup. I should incorporate them more until they are dialed.
Campusing
ARC 15 min
WBL 20 min (worked in the climbing team wall, up to low b20's)
Hard Bouldering 10 min (worked two, b28,b29, got one of them)
Moonboarding (my sub for hangboarding) ~30min
+
SE
core stuff (3 sets 20 slow, low, leg lifts + 30 back extensions)
3 supersets of:
- one arm rows on bar (25lb) -5,3,4
- shoulder raises (out to in) (20lb) -3,3,3
4 Nov
Limit Bouldering in MAC
ARC 30 min
WBL 30 min (worked up to about V3)
Hard bouldering 30 min (worked on: V3+,V3+,V4... came close on one of the V3+s)
+
SE
HSPU - 2,1,5,3 (first two on raised dumbells, the rest on floor)
dumbell rows (standing vertically pulling up) 5 reps, 50-75-75
some core stuff and antagonists: 10 reps with 10 lbs outward rotation,attempted some...front levers, one leg out
6 Nov
Limit Bouldering in MAC
ARC 30min
WBL 30min
Hard bouldering 30 min
Notes: topped out a V3 first time that was shutting me down last workout. Also latched the 2nd to last hold on a V2 that was also shutting me down. A former V3 I fell on a few times end of October was quite easy this time around. Al this despite tired forearms. Feeling pretty good about all this training
:D
+
SE
-IYT's (i.e. front, middle and lateral raises) 3x2 20lb
-weighted pullups 40-50-50 (5 reps each)
-Turkish getups 3x3 ea arm (60 lbs)
-core (15 mins with anna. 1 minute of each exercise that changes. A variety including: bicycles, V ups, candlesticks, windshield wipers, planks and side planks, boxer situps, flutter kicks with a break on the 5th and 10th minute.)
aha moment:
I hate ab stuff because it's painful and enduring. However, today I found out that this type of training to destroy your abs and get you winded isn't the best for climbing. It's better to do shorter but intense exercises (less that 10 reps)
-Leg raises (hanging and sitting lifting your legs from the floor)
-"Hard planks" (pulse and exhale with max effort 10 times)
-front levers
-ab wheel
-one knee raise to max mobility
(more ideas to come soon)
-pike tucks on rings or TRX (feet on trx, start in pushup position, drive hip up while piking in)
9 Nov
"Campusing"
ARC 20 min in the MAC
boulder ladders on the climbing team wall 30 min *
hard bouldering 10 min
Moon board ~40 min**
*Improvements! one of the climbs I never succeeded on during the last time (2 Nov) and this time I got it first go!
**The first main problem we worked on (2 Nov) and didnt' succeed then, but I got it first go today!
+
SE
weighted dips (4x3 60 lbs)
3 sets of 3 1-arm negatives
POWER ENDURANCE PHASE
consists of redpoint attempts, route intervals, and Linked Boulder Circuits (LBC)
LBC is choosing 3-4 boulder pr0blems, climbing up one, down something easier, up the next... etc testing on jugs if necessary between each. A duty cycle (work to rest ratio) is chosen (4:2 for example implies a circuit lasts ~ 4 minutes long then resting for half that time, ~2 mins)
13 Nov
Linked Boulder Circuits (LBC)
15 min ARC traverse warmup
15 min ladders
20 min hard bouldering
LBC, DC 2:4
Did a V4, V3 and V2 *
Did 5 rounds accidentally, intended for
only 4. Did the first 2 rounds successfully.
On 3rd round, fell on the V3, cheated past
And finished it off. On the 4th round, fell
On the 3 (cheated past) and the 2 (ended)
Same with the 5th round.
* Notes: solid improvement! The 3 and 4 were actually once apart of my hard bouldering the first week, so they've been promoted! Will try this same one next week for 4 rounds to compare for improvement.
16 Nov
Redpoint attempts
1 hour warmup (10 mins ARCing, the rest working up moderates 10a-10c)
attempted 2 problems. 11a's (3 tries on one, 2 on the other) Can get by with just one fall each
17 Nov
Redpoint attempts
hour long warmup (+20 min bike ride to the gym)
Tried the two problems from last night. I'm one move from the top on one (3 times in a row!). Then I got the other one first go. Bad technique though. It can be improved for sure
Felt some elbow pain, the 2 days in a row don't help. Followed up with stretching and outer hammer twists (2.5 lb weight at end of DB). Rubber bands as well
20 Nov LBC
15 min ARC w/u (autobelays)
15 min WBL*
20 min hard bouldering
LBC
same set as last time with 2:4 DC
Did 4 sets. I did the first 3 completely, but
Unlike last time, I didn't get the V4 on the
Last attempt. Still improvement I'd say.
10 min ARC c/d
*did that hard purple V2 I kept falling on :]
Notes: slight remnant of tendonitis. Did some pushups, hammer twists, and rubber band extensions
23 Nov
Climbing at SenderOne
Supersets, with little rest between
10b, 11b, 10d,10d (very soft 11b though)
10b,11c*,10d**
11a,11b***8
*one clip from top
**one hang, pumped
***fell from top, could not clip anchors, but I made some good progress. Thought I was gonna fall 2 clips from the top, but I managed to push to the top
+
SE
4x10 seated leg raises
3 sets shoulder press
40lb, reps: 4,3,4
One arm slow lowers and assisted one arm pullups (Mikayla pushed up)
NOTES: overt improvement from my last time at sender, definitely improving. No elbow pain :)
27 Nov -- Route Intervals
20 min ARC w/u
15 min boulderladders
4 rounds on a 10d (DC 2:4)
Each round was about 1.5 total laps up
the wall. The very first lap I made it all the
way to the top, the others I made it to but
not necessarily past the crux. The 2nd half
I would usually fail just before the crux.
It may be a little too hard?
Cooldown on 2 moderates
30 Nov -- Red point attempts
20 mins ARC
20 mins working up moderates (10b, 10c)
Redpoint attempts on two 11bs
(one, has a dyno in it, couldn't complete all the moves, other: Can do it with 1-2 hangs, just have to link it all. Nice and dynamic)
+
antagonits, pushups, rubber band extensions, outward rotations
Note: Feeling strong, 2nd route especially is quite dynamic on not the greatest holds. Interesting side note: despite feeling stronger, I failed on 2 10c's during the warmup. I should incorporate them more until they are dialed.
Monday, October 1, 2018
Oct 2018
The Rock Climbers Training Manual (RCTM) came in the mail!!
In mild summary it works with periodization with the different phases being:
Base Fitness&Skill Development, Strength, Power, Power Endurance, Performance, Rest
All done over a 4 month period. But seeing as my school quarter is 10 weeks then there's a 3 week break (during which I will be at least a full week off and I don't want those 3 weeks away to fall right in the middle of, say, the power phase or something), I plan on doing a shorter one, allotting 2 weeks apiece to each, then followed by that pretty long break... So here goes nothing:
(Doing this with a partner for motivation)
1 Oct
ARCing #1 -- 2 x 20 mins on (20 mins off)
As the last few times, I'm climbing up and down auto belays:
Round 1: 10?, 8 x2, 8 x2, unknown (8?) x2, 10b (ALMOST made it the whole way, but slipped during the last 10 ft of the downclimb), 8 (only up, timer ended)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8 + 1up
Round 2: 10b, 8 x2, 8+ x2,10a (fell halfway on the down climb), 7, 8 x 1.5 (timer)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7 + 1 up + .5 down
3 Oct
ARCing #2 -- 2 x 25 mins on (20 mins off)
Decided in an attempt to mimic outdoor climbing to make sure I only step on features and small jibs. Priority: features/smearing, then jibs (of any route, not just the one I'm on), if non available, then step on the big hold available in my route, but stand far away back to limit my usage of the large foot space.
keys: (fo) - features only, (fj) features and jibs. (u) up only, no downclimb because I fell, (t) timer went off, Unless otherwise noted, assume a full up and downclimb performed
Round 1: 8 x 2 (fo), 10b, 9+ (fj), 7(fj), 8 (fj, t)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6
Round 2: 7(fo) x 1.5 (one full, u -- kicked out because belay test started), 9 x 1.5 (fo, u on 2nd), 8 x 2 (fj, u for both), 8? x 2 (fj, u for both), 8 x 1.5 (fj, u for both, timer went off)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2 + 5 up
5 Oct
Mileage
7 moderate routes (RCTM calls for these being outdoor classics, but for now I'm just doing indoors)
10b,10c,10c,10c(f near top), 10d(f middle), 10d(f near top), 10b(f near top)
6 Oct
Mileage
5 moderate routes
10?, 10c, 10 (maybe a b), 10c, 10c (no falls, but they were on auto-belay. My partner is away)
(Actually, for the last I tried to mix together an 11a and 11c, hoping it was going to be a 10c/d, but I fell pretty early and didn't count it)
############# Optional Aerobic Exercises ################
RCTM reccommends doing optional aerobic exercises on rest days, especially during this endurance phase. My lovely girlfriend supplied me with two swim workouts
Swim Workout 1:
w/u 200m easy
6 x 50 freestyle (fs) kick, 10s rest between rounds
6 x 50 fs, 20s rest
3 x 100 fs, 30s rest
c/d 4 x 50 fs, 30s rest
Swim Workout 2:
w/u 200 easy
3 x 50 fs kick, 10s rest
10 x 50 fs, 25s rest
- on 1,3,5,7,9 breath every 3 strokes
- on 2.4.6.8,10 breath every 5 strokes
3 x 100 fs, 30s rest
c/d 4 x 50 fs, 30s rest
8 Oct
Aerobic activity:
Swim workout 1 + 20 mins biking back to home
9 Oct
Arcing #3 -- 2 x 30min (25 mins rest)
Round1:
7? x 2 (fo on 2nd), 8 x 2, 10a, 8? x 2, 9, 9+
------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9
Round2:
9 x 2 (1st round fo, u), 7 x 2 (on 1st round, fo), 10b, 8 x 2, 8+ x 2, 8? x 2
-------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10, + 1 up
11 Oct
Arcing #4 -- 2 x 30 min (30 mins rest)
Round1:
9?,8? x2, 8 x2, 8 x 2 8 x 2, 8 x 2
------------------------------------------------------------------------10 + 2 up
Round2:
9x2 , 10a, 7 x2, 10c (fell twice near bottom), 9+ x 2, 8 x 2,8 (clock ran out)
------------------------------------------------------------------------9 + 1 up
Hangboard Routine (Beginner)
w/u - 20 mins, carrying and holding the board, general movement, pullups, etc.
each set is 6 reps of 10s on 5s off, 3 min rest between sets. one of each grip:
1 warm-up ug
2 IMR 3 finger pocket
3 medium edge (semi-closed)
4 medium pinch
5 MR 2 finger pocket
6 Large open-hand edge
7 Wide pinch
8 Sloper
9 MRP 3 finger pocket
(example entry - 5 ---------- 2S 8 5 3 (-20) means two successful rounds, followed by some rounds where I held on for 8 seconds, 5 seconds, 3 seconds with 20 lbs taken off my BW)
12 Oct
HB #1 (For this first routine, I don't have a means of measuring the weight I'm taking off, I took off weight by pressing one foot on a stool in front of me either light, medium, or heavy pressure)
1 ------------------ 6S
2 ----------------- 2S 7 5 4 4
3 ----------------- 1S 7 6 5 5 5
4 ----------------- 1S 9 7 7 7 4 (L-M)
5 ----------------- 2S 6 4 4 4 (M)
6 ----------------- 2S 3 4 3 4
7 ----------------- 1S 9 5 5 4 3 (M)
8 ----------------- 2S 5 6 4 5
9 ----------------- 2S 5 4 5 4 (M)
+
Supplementary exercises ( 4 sets, 8 reps, 3 min rest between ---> 4 x 8 (3m) )
-Dips
-Hanging leg lifts (back supported, only did 2 sets because time crunch)
-Shoulder press (35lb x4, 30lb x5, 25lb x5, 25lb x5 )------------> try 25 lbs each next time
13 Oct
Swim workout 2
completed in ~ 45 minutes
...I think my Girlfriend is trying to kill me
15 Oct
HB #2 (Now I have a pulley and counter weight to make this more exact. Time to establish baseline weights. taped MP fingers on RH)
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 5S 9 (-10) <--------------------- b="">baseline established
3 ----------------- 2S 9 3 5 4 (-20) -------:: -25 next time
4 ----------------- 5 3 1 1 1 (-30) ---------:: add gallon of water (~8.5 lbs)
5 ----------------- 1S 5 3 2 3 1 (-20) -----:: -30 next time
6 ----------------- 3S 8 8 8 (-5) <--------------------- again="" b="" try=""> nearly baseline
7 ----------------- 7 3 5 5 5 5 (-30) ------:: add gallon of water (~8.5 lbs)
8 ----------------- 4S 7 7 (-7.5) -----------:: -10 next time
9 ----------------- 2S 7 5 5 5 (-25) -------:: -30 next time
+
SE ( 4x8(3m) )
- Inverted 1-arm rows on rings
- Raised leg pushups
- Flutter kicks (120. i.e. count 1 every 4 flutter kicks)
16 Oct
Optional aerobic exercise
Swim set 1 + lots of biking
18 Oct HB 3
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-10) <--------------------- b="">baseline
3 ----------------- 2S 8 7 7 6 (-25) ---------:: -30 next time
4 ----------------- 5 6 3 1 1 1 (-30+jug) ---:: (ADD MORE SOMEHOW)
5 ----------------- 2S 2 1 5 4 (-30) ---------:: (add jug next time)
6 ----------------- 3S 6 8 4 (-7.5) ----------:: (-10) next time
7 ----------------- 4S 5 5 (-30 + jug) ------:: nearly baseline try again
8 ----------------- 2S 7 6 4 4 (-10) ---------:: -15 next time
9 ----------------- 3S 6 6 6 (-30) -----------:: (add jug next time)
+
SE
(for time's sake, I'm doing 1 super set, all exercises then resting 4 mins)
attempted workout:
4 x 8 bicep curls (30 lbs), 4 x 8 L-sit dips, 4 x 6 leg lifts
rnd 1 --- success
rnd 2 --- success
rnd 3 --- 7 curls
rnd 4 --- 6 right, 5 left, 6 dips
(go light on curls next time, 25lbs)
20 Oct
UCSB inhouse Bouldering Comp -- Did 4 successful climbs ( 6 routes attempted) maybe v3-v4.
~ 1 hour. Keeping it light for hangboarding tomorrow
21 Oct
HB #4
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 2S 6 4 5 3 (-10) ----------:: <--------------------- b="">baseline ( :[ big deterioration)
3 ----------------- 2S 9 7 4 4 (-30) -----------:: add jug next time
4 ----------------- 7 5 3 3 3 2 (-30+jug) -----:: some improvement :]
5 ----------------- 1S 9 4 5 5 5 (-30+jug) ---::
6 ----------------- 2S 9 5 4 6 (-10) -----------:: worse ;[
7 ----------------- 4S 5 4 (-30 + jug) --------:: nearly baseline try again
8 ----------------- 2S 9 5 4 4 (-15) -----------:: worse ;[
9 ----------------- 4S 5 6 (-30+jug) ----------:: better (but easier weights)
NOTES: it was hot/humid (80F). The bouldering comp. probably affected my strength as well
+
SE
as 1 superset:
weighted pullups (+15lb) 8-8-7-6
raised leg slow,strict pushups 4 x 8
front-to-lateral-then-back raises (10lb) 8-6-5-6 (too much rest though)
24 Oct
HB #5
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 4S 9 7 (-10) -----------------:: try -12.5 next time
3 ----------------- 6S (-30 + jug) --------:: ...I think I've been doing these wrong in the past (too crimpy)
4 ----------------- 1S 6 4 3 2 2 (-30+jug) -----:: Some improvement (but easier weight)
5 ----------------- 3S 9 5 6 (-30+jug) ---------:: Better! :]
6 ----------------- 3S 9 6 5 (-10) ---------------:: (try -15 next time)
7 ----------------- 3S 8 5 2(-30 + jug) ---------:: worse ;[
8 ----------------- 2S 8 5 7 5 (-15) -------------:: worse ;[ (try -20 next time)
9 ----------------- 3S 7 7 6 (-30+jug) --------- :: worse ;[
NOTES: it was a cooler/less humid day. Workout performed later in the evening
+
SE
as 1 superset 4 x 8 reps, 4 minute rest
- one arm rows on rings
- one arm shoulder presses (25lb)
-1 minute plank
25 Oct
Optional aerobic exercise
Swim workout #2
POWER PHASE BEGINS
28 Oct - campus workout
20 min ARC warmup
30 min boulder ladders (4 V0, 3 V1, 2V2 2V3, 1V4)
15 min hard bouldering (working a V5)
Campus rungs
Attempted:
4 sets on large rungs of:
-B1,L2,R3,L3,R3
-B1,R2,L2,R3,L3
4 sets on large rungs of:
-B1,L2,R3,L4,R5
-B1,R2,L3,R4,L5
(The reality... not even close... lots of work to do, but unfortunately I won't have access to a campus
ladder hardly ever this year, so... someday)
+
SE
3 supersets of:
-8 total Lock-offs(4ea)
-8 slow pushups on a TRX
-8 leg lifts
(~4 min rest)
30 Oct (limit bouldering)*
30 min ARC w/u (good pace and flow :] )
30 min boulder ladders (couldn't manage a certain V3)
30 min hard bouldering (projected 3 V4's in the rec cen. Topped 1)
+
SE (attempt 3 sets of 3-5 reps)
Shoulder press (35x5,40x4, 45x2)
Bicep curl (40x4, 40x4, 40x4)
Weighted dips (50x5,60x4, 60x3)
* due to being an absolute beginner at training, I'm forgoing the limit bouldering. There's no harm in easing into the routine, but there's much to he lost going too hard, too fast. Until otherwise specified, limit bouldering won't actually include limit bouldering.
In mild summary it works with periodization with the different phases being:
Base Fitness&Skill Development, Strength, Power, Power Endurance, Performance, Rest
All done over a 4 month period. But seeing as my school quarter is 10 weeks then there's a 3 week break (during which I will be at least a full week off and I don't want those 3 weeks away to fall right in the middle of, say, the power phase or something), I plan on doing a shorter one, allotting 2 weeks apiece to each, then followed by that pretty long break... So here goes nothing:
(Doing this with a partner for motivation)
1 Oct
ARCing #1 -- 2 x 20 mins on (20 mins off)
As the last few times, I'm climbing up and down auto belays:
Round 1: 10?, 8 x2, 8 x2, unknown (8?) x2, 10b (ALMOST made it the whole way, but slipped during the last 10 ft of the downclimb), 8 (only up, timer ended)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8 + 1up
Round 2: 10b, 8 x2, 8+ x2,10a (fell halfway on the down climb), 7, 8 x 1.5 (timer)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7 + 1 up + .5 down
3 Oct
ARCing #2 -- 2 x 25 mins on (20 mins off)
Decided in an attempt to mimic outdoor climbing to make sure I only step on features and small jibs. Priority: features/smearing, then jibs (of any route, not just the one I'm on), if non available, then step on the big hold available in my route, but stand far away back to limit my usage of the large foot space.
keys: (fo) - features only, (fj) features and jibs. (u) up only, no downclimb because I fell, (t) timer went off, Unless otherwise noted, assume a full up and downclimb performed
Round 1: 8 x 2 (fo), 10b, 9+ (fj), 7(fj), 8 (fj, t)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6
Round 2: 7(fo) x 1.5 (one full, u -- kicked out because belay test started), 9 x 1.5 (fo, u on 2nd), 8 x 2 (fj, u for both), 8? x 2 (fj, u for both), 8 x 1.5 (fj, u for both, timer went off)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2 + 5 up
5 Oct
Mileage
7 moderate routes (RCTM calls for these being outdoor classics, but for now I'm just doing indoors)
10b,10c,10c,10c(f near top), 10d(f middle), 10d(f near top), 10b(f near top)
6 Oct
Mileage
5 moderate routes
10?, 10c, 10 (maybe a b), 10c, 10c (no falls, but they were on auto-belay. My partner is away)
(Actually, for the last I tried to mix together an 11a and 11c, hoping it was going to be a 10c/d, but I fell pretty early and didn't count it)
############# Optional Aerobic Exercises ################
RCTM reccommends doing optional aerobic exercises on rest days, especially during this endurance phase. My lovely girlfriend supplied me with two swim workouts
Swim Workout 1:
w/u 200m easy
6 x 50 freestyle (fs) kick, 10s rest between rounds
6 x 50 fs, 20s rest
3 x 100 fs, 30s rest
c/d 4 x 50 fs, 30s rest
Swim Workout 2:
w/u 200 easy
3 x 50 fs kick, 10s rest
10 x 50 fs, 25s rest
- on 1,3,5,7,9 breath every 3 strokes
- on 2.4.6.8,10 breath every 5 strokes
3 x 100 fs, 30s rest
c/d 4 x 50 fs, 30s rest
8 Oct
Aerobic activity:
Swim workout 1 + 20 mins biking back to home
9 Oct
Arcing #3 -- 2 x 30min (25 mins rest)
Round1:
7? x 2 (fo on 2nd), 8 x 2, 10a, 8? x 2, 9, 9+
------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9
Round2:
9 x 2 (1st round fo, u), 7 x 2 (on 1st round, fo), 10b, 8 x 2, 8+ x 2, 8? x 2
-------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10, + 1 up
11 Oct
Arcing #4 -- 2 x 30 min (30 mins rest)
Round1:
9?,8? x2, 8 x2, 8 x 2 8 x 2, 8 x 2
------------------------------------------------------------------------10 + 2 up
Round2:
9x2 , 10a, 7 x2, 10c (fell twice near bottom), 9+ x 2, 8 x 2,8 (clock ran out)
------------------------------------------------------------------------9 + 1 up
Hangboard Routine (Beginner)
w/u - 20 mins, carrying and holding the board, general movement, pullups, etc.
each set is 6 reps of 10s on 5s off, 3 min rest between sets. one of each grip:
1 warm-up ug
2 IMR 3 finger pocket
3 medium edge (semi-closed)
4 medium pinch
5 MR 2 finger pocket
6 Large open-hand edge
7 Wide pinch
8 Sloper
9 MRP 3 finger pocket
(example entry - 5 ---------- 2S 8 5 3 (-20) means two successful rounds, followed by some rounds where I held on for 8 seconds, 5 seconds, 3 seconds with 20 lbs taken off my BW)
12 Oct
HB #1 (For this first routine, I don't have a means of measuring the weight I'm taking off, I took off weight by pressing one foot on a stool in front of me either light, medium, or heavy pressure)
1 ------------------ 6S
2 ----------------- 2S 7 5 4 4
3 ----------------- 1S 7 6 5 5 5
4 ----------------- 1S 9 7 7 7 4 (L-M)
5 ----------------- 2S 6 4 4 4 (M)
6 ----------------- 2S 3 4 3 4
7 ----------------- 1S 9 5 5 4 3 (M)
8 ----------------- 2S 5 6 4 5
9 ----------------- 2S 5 4 5 4 (M)
+
Supplementary exercises ( 4 sets, 8 reps, 3 min rest between ---> 4 x 8 (3m) )
-Dips
-Hanging leg lifts (back supported, only did 2 sets because time crunch)
-Shoulder press (35lb x4, 30lb x5, 25lb x5, 25lb x5 )------------> try 25 lbs each next time
13 Oct
Swim workout 2
completed in ~ 45 minutes
...I think my Girlfriend is trying to kill me
15 Oct
HB #2 (Now I have a pulley and counter weight to make this more exact. Time to establish baseline weights. taped MP fingers on RH)
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 5S 9 (-10) <--------------------- b="">baseline established
3 ----------------- 2S 9 3 5 4 (-20) -------:: -25 next time
4 ----------------- 5 3 1 1 1 (-30) ---------:: add gallon of water (~8.5 lbs)
5 ----------------- 1S 5 3 2 3 1 (-20) -----:: -30 next time
6 ----------------- 3S 8 8 8 (-5) <--------------------- again="" b="" try=""> nearly baseline
7 ----------------- 7 3 5 5 5 5 (-30) ------:: add gallon of water (~8.5 lbs)
8 ----------------- 4S 7 7 (-7.5) -----------:: -10 next time
9 ----------------- 2S 7 5 5 5 (-25) -------:: -30 next time
+
SE ( 4x8(3m) )
- Inverted 1-arm rows on rings
- Raised leg pushups
- Flutter kicks (120. i.e. count 1 every 4 flutter kicks)
16 Oct
Optional aerobic exercise
Swim set 1 + lots of biking
18 Oct HB 3
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-10) <--------------------- b="">baseline
3 ----------------- 2S 8 7 7 6 (-25) ---------:: -30 next time
4 ----------------- 5 6 3 1 1 1 (-30+jug) ---:: (ADD MORE SOMEHOW)
5 ----------------- 2S 2 1 5 4 (-30) ---------:: (add jug next time)
6 ----------------- 3S 6 8 4 (-7.5) ----------:: (-10) next time
7 ----------------- 4S 5 5 (-30 + jug) ------:: nearly baseline try again
8 ----------------- 2S 7 6 4 4 (-10) ---------:: -15 next time
9 ----------------- 3S 6 6 6 (-30) -----------:: (add jug next time)
+
SE
(for time's sake, I'm doing 1 super set, all exercises then resting 4 mins)
attempted workout:
4 x 8 bicep curls (30 lbs), 4 x 8 L-sit dips, 4 x 6 leg lifts
rnd 1 --- success
rnd 2 --- success
rnd 3 --- 7 curls
rnd 4 --- 6 right, 5 left, 6 dips
(go light on curls next time, 25lbs)
20 Oct
UCSB inhouse Bouldering Comp -- Did 4 successful climbs ( 6 routes attempted) maybe v3-v4.
~ 1 hour. Keeping it light for hangboarding tomorrow
21 Oct
HB #4
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 2S 6 4 5 3 (-10) ----------:: <--------------------- b="">baseline ( :[ big deterioration)
3 ----------------- 2S 9 7 4 4 (-30) -----------:: add jug next time
4 ----------------- 7 5 3 3 3 2 (-30+jug) -----:: some improvement :]
5 ----------------- 1S 9 4 5 5 5 (-30+jug) ---::
6 ----------------- 2S 9 5 4 6 (-10) -----------:: worse ;[
7 ----------------- 4S 5 4 (-30 + jug) --------:: nearly baseline try again
8 ----------------- 2S 9 5 4 4 (-15) -----------:: worse ;[
9 ----------------- 4S 5 6 (-30+jug) ----------:: better (but easier weights)
NOTES: it was hot/humid (80F). The bouldering comp. probably affected my strength as well
+
SE
as 1 superset:
weighted pullups (+15lb) 8-8-7-6
raised leg slow,strict pushups 4 x 8
front-to-lateral-then-back raises (10lb) 8-6-5-6 (too much rest though)
24 Oct
HB #5
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 4S 9 7 (-10) -----------------:: try -12.5 next time
3 ----------------- 6S (-30 + jug) --------:: ...I think I've been doing these wrong in the past (too crimpy)
4 ----------------- 1S 6 4 3 2 2 (-30+jug) -----:: Some improvement (but easier weight)
5 ----------------- 3S 9 5 6 (-30+jug) ---------:: Better! :]
6 ----------------- 3S 9 6 5 (-10) ---------------:: (try -15 next time)
7 ----------------- 3S 8 5 2(-30 + jug) ---------:: worse ;[
8 ----------------- 2S 8 5 7 5 (-15) -------------:: worse ;[ (try -20 next time)
9 ----------------- 3S 7 7 6 (-30+jug) --------- :: worse ;[
NOTES: it was a cooler/less humid day. Workout performed later in the evening
+
SE
as 1 superset 4 x 8 reps, 4 minute rest
- one arm rows on rings
- one arm shoulder presses (25lb)
-1 minute plank
25 Oct
Optional aerobic exercise
Swim workout #2
POWER PHASE BEGINS
28 Oct - campus workout
20 min ARC warmup
30 min boulder ladders (4 V0, 3 V1, 2V2 2V3, 1V4)
15 min hard bouldering (working a V5)
Campus rungs
Attempted:
4 sets on large rungs of:
-B1,L2,R3,L3,R3
-B1,R2,L2,R3,L3
4 sets on large rungs of:
-B1,L2,R3,L4,R5
-B1,R2,L3,R4,L5
(The reality... not even close... lots of work to do, but unfortunately I won't have access to a campus
ladder hardly ever this year, so... someday)
+
SE
3 supersets of:
-8 total Lock-offs(4ea)
-8 slow pushups on a TRX
-8 leg lifts
(~4 min rest)
30 Oct (limit bouldering)*
30 min ARC w/u (good pace and flow :] )
30 min boulder ladders (couldn't manage a certain V3)
30 min hard bouldering (projected 3 V4's in the rec cen. Topped 1)
+
SE (attempt 3 sets of 3-5 reps)
Shoulder press (35x5,40x4, 45x2)
Bicep curl (40x4, 40x4, 40x4)
Weighted dips (50x5,60x4, 60x3)
* due to being an absolute beginner at training, I'm forgoing the limit bouldering. There's no harm in easing into the routine, but there's much to he lost going too hard, too fast. Until otherwise specified, limit bouldering won't actually include limit bouldering.
Tuesday, September 11, 2018
Aug/Sep 2018
28 Aug -4 Sep
went to Rockreation every day for 1.5-2 hours (Mikayla got us a groupon). On 3 sep, did 3 rnds of 10 mins on, 10 mins off
6 Sep
SenderOne with Morgan
did 4x4s
1st round: 10c, 10a, 10c, 10a
2nd round: 11b*, 10a, 10c, 10a
3rd round: 11a (hung, but finished to the top), 10b, 10c, 10c
* First 11b succesfully at Sender (or indoors, or ever I believe)
10 Sep
Climbed in Wheeler gorge. New place, 6 total climbs completed (only 4 formally, the first two we did easier variations of the actual route)
20 Sep
Climbed in El Cajon (hour long approach took 2.5 hours due to going to wrong mountain. Had to bushwack it over to el cajon [ from 'the toe' area to 'the wedge' area] Did a 4 pitch 5.8 multi, then a 5.8 route. Tried and fell on a slick 10b... long day. Feeling in a slump again... I should be able to do 10b... slick or not, that's no excuse. Gotta get back into training hard.
22 Sep
Back to UCSB. Bouldered for an hour and a half or so. Then did a Farmers walk with 2 100lb dBs and tried a single max set of pullups (13 :/ lame... )
I just ordered "The Rock Climber's Training Manual". I've been at a plateau for a long time. I need some structured training... let's see how this goes
23 Sep
Can't wait to start RCTM stuff. Since I bouldered yesterday though, I'm just going to do some of my old HB routine
Hangboard
Set 1
Position 4 5 S
1 F (2 seconds in... I knew it was gonna happen)
Set 2
Position 4 1 S
1 F (last second!)
Position 1 3 S
1 F (last 2 seconds)
Notes: Boring/regular warmup. Decent first set. Don't know why my 2nd was so bad. But I guess it means I've got good hold choices. It's cooler now, so no excuses from the heat. I suppose I can use this workout as a benchmark for checking how RCTM helps improve
24 Sep
ARCing at School's auto-belay's (Can't wait for that book to come in!!!)
3 rnds 10 mins on, 10 mins off. Unless otherwise noted, I climbed up then downclimbed the same route. Here was the route breakdown:
1: 9, 10a, 8, 10? x2 ( failed on up climb a few moves in both attempts), 8
2: 9 x2, 8, ? (felt 8), 8 (timer went off shortly after starting, I climbed down what I had done)
3: 10b, 9+ (both felt easy, wall must have been too vertical so I moved on), 9, 8 x2.5 (fell before topping on 1st try, so remaining two were up and downs to the point I fell from)
tabata pushups (15,15,15,15,12,6,7,3)
3 sets 50 extensions (light blue band)
26 Sep
ARCing
3 rnds 10 mins on, 10 mins off:
1: 10?, 8, 10b(fall 10 feet in), 8, 9+
2: 9 x2, 10b (fell), 10 (up and down 3/4 of the way... the route wasn't supposed to be for autobelay), 8 x 2.5 (first time all the way up and down, 2nd time fell on down climb, 3rd time climbed up and down from point of fall)
3: 10b, 8, 8+, 8 (fell), 8
3 sets 50 extensions (light blue band)
went to Rockreation every day for 1.5-2 hours (Mikayla got us a groupon). On 3 sep, did 3 rnds of 10 mins on, 10 mins off
6 Sep
SenderOne with Morgan
did 4x4s
1st round: 10c, 10a, 10c, 10a
2nd round: 11b*, 10a, 10c, 10a
3rd round: 11a (hung, but finished to the top), 10b, 10c, 10c
* First 11b succesfully at Sender (or indoors, or ever I believe)
10 Sep
Climbed in Wheeler gorge. New place, 6 total climbs completed (only 4 formally, the first two we did easier variations of the actual route)
20 Sep
Climbed in El Cajon (hour long approach took 2.5 hours due to going to wrong mountain. Had to bushwack it over to el cajon [ from 'the toe' area to 'the wedge' area] Did a 4 pitch 5.8 multi, then a 5.8 route. Tried and fell on a slick 10b... long day. Feeling in a slump again... I should be able to do 10b... slick or not, that's no excuse. Gotta get back into training hard.
22 Sep
Back to UCSB. Bouldered for an hour and a half or so. Then did a Farmers walk with 2 100lb dBs and tried a single max set of pullups (13 :/ lame... )
I just ordered "The Rock Climber's Training Manual". I've been at a plateau for a long time. I need some structured training... let's see how this goes
23 Sep
Can't wait to start RCTM stuff. Since I bouldered yesterday though, I'm just going to do some of my old HB routine
Hangboard
Set 1
Position 4 5 S
1 F (2 seconds in... I knew it was gonna happen)
Set 2
Position 4 1 S
1 F (last second!)
Position 1 3 S
1 F (last 2 seconds)
Notes: Boring/regular warmup. Decent first set. Don't know why my 2nd was so bad. But I guess it means I've got good hold choices. It's cooler now, so no excuses from the heat. I suppose I can use this workout as a benchmark for checking how RCTM helps improve
24 Sep
ARCing at School's auto-belay's (Can't wait for that book to come in!!!)
3 rnds 10 mins on, 10 mins off. Unless otherwise noted, I climbed up then downclimbed the same route. Here was the route breakdown:
1: 9, 10a, 8, 10? x2 ( failed on up climb a few moves in both attempts), 8
2: 9 x2, 8, ? (felt 8), 8 (timer went off shortly after starting, I climbed down what I had done)
3: 10b, 9+ (both felt easy, wall must have been too vertical so I moved on), 9, 8 x2.5 (fell before topping on 1st try, so remaining two were up and downs to the point I fell from)
tabata pushups (15,15,15,15,12,6,7,3)
3 sets 50 extensions (light blue band)
26 Sep
ARCing
3 rnds 10 mins on, 10 mins off:
1: 10?, 8, 10b(fall 10 feet in), 8, 9+
2: 9 x2, 10b (fell), 10 (up and down 3/4 of the way... the route wasn't supposed to be for autobelay), 8 x 2.5 (first time all the way up and down, 2nd time fell on down climb, 3rd time climbed up and down from point of fall)
3: 10b, 8, 8+, 8 (fell), 8
3 sets 50 extensions (light blue band)
Sunday, July 8, 2018
Jul 2018
2 Jul
Bouldering at the brickyard. Did 2 V1+'s I couldn't get last time
3 Jul
Did a 3 person multipitch trad. climb in taquitz. First 10a, El camino real linkup to pearly gates (followed the two 10a pitches however. Probably would've fallen on lead)
8 Jul
Set 1
Position 4 4 S
Position 1 2 S
Set 2
Position 4 3 S (last one very questionable)
Position 1 3 S
Notes: There's a heat wave 95F on the thermostat, though it doesn't help being upstairs in a poor-ventilated space. Probably makes it very hard to stick. That being said, I was trying to chalk up between most holds. Just a boring warm-up. (missed out, should've gone after the "fun" warmup earlier... it was cooler then too)
2 sets of 100 rubber band extensions each hand post HBing
23Jul
Set 1
Position 4 4 S
1 F (1 sec left)
Position 1 2 S
Set 2
Position 4 1 S
1 F (2 seconds left)
Position 1 3 S
1 F (3 seconds left)
Notes: Pretty terrible performance :[
excuses, excuses : Not a good warmup, kind of hot (81) , neck and lower back hurt :/
7/24
Went to sender one for 7 hours. Climbed 2 sets of 4x4's
1st round: 9, 10a, 10c, 10b
2nd round: 11a, 10d (fail), 10c(fail) (No Llst climb)
Then did many TR climbs just for the funsies + a V4
7/26
Sender again for 4 hours
4x4's
1st round: 10a, 10b, 10a, 10b
2nd round: 10c, 10b, 10b, 9
Followed with more ARC training (10 min. on, 10 off for 3 rounds)
Bouldering at the brickyard. Did 2 V1+'s I couldn't get last time
3 Jul
Did a 3 person multipitch trad. climb in taquitz. First 10a, El camino real linkup to pearly gates (followed the two 10a pitches however. Probably would've fallen on lead)
8 Jul
Set 1
Position 4 4 S
Position 1 2 S
Set 2
Position 4 3 S (last one very questionable)
Position 1 3 S
Notes: There's a heat wave 95F on the thermostat, though it doesn't help being upstairs in a poor-ventilated space. Probably makes it very hard to stick. That being said, I was trying to chalk up between most holds. Just a boring warm-up. (missed out, should've gone after the "fun" warmup earlier... it was cooler then too)
2 sets of 100 rubber band extensions each hand post HBing
23Jul
Set 1
Position 4 4 S
1 F (1 sec left)
Position 1 2 S
Set 2
Position 4 1 S
1 F (2 seconds left)
Position 1 3 S
1 F (3 seconds left)
Notes: Pretty terrible performance :[
excuses, excuses : Not a good warmup, kind of hot (81) , neck and lower back hurt :/
7/24
Went to sender one for 7 hours. Climbed 2 sets of 4x4's
1st round: 9, 10a, 10c, 10b
2nd round: 11a, 10d (fail), 10c(fail) (No Llst climb)
Then did many TR climbs just for the funsies + a V4
7/26
Sender again for 4 hours
4x4's
1st round: 10a, 10b, 10a, 10b
2nd round: 10c, 10b, 10b, 9
Followed with more ARC training (10 min. on, 10 off for 3 rounds)
Monday, June 18, 2018
May-Jun 2018
Well, if it isn't one thing, it's the next. In April, I did a "backflip dab", landed on my stomach and it hurt for a while to do anything physical
So long rest.
Went to the last bouldering comp. of the quarter. Got 3rd place in the B category
(for reference of any strangers who may be reading this, there are 3 categories:
A, B, C which are beginner, intermediate, advanced respectivily)
Got back into doing some light bouldering in May, starting back to hangboarding
So long rest.
Went to the last bouldering comp. of the quarter. Got 3rd place in the B category
(for reference of any strangers who may be reading this, there are 3 categories:
A, B, C which are beginner, intermediate, advanced respectivily)
Got back into doing some light bouldering in May, starting back to hangboarding
6/18
Set 1
Position 4 6 S
Set 2
Position 4 6 S
Set 2
Position 4 2 S
1 F (4 seconds in)
Position 1 3 S
Notes: Mikaykay is over! Had a 'fun' warmup earlier with her a few hours before
6/27
Set 1
Position 4 5 S
1 F (4 seconds in)
Set 2
Notes: Just a regular warmup... clearly there's some advantage to making it 'fun', boost in testosterone perhaps
1 F (4 seconds in)
Position 1 3 S
Notes: Mikaykay is over! Had a 'fun' warmup earlier with her a few hours before
6/27
Set 1
Position 4 5 S
1 F (4 seconds in)
Set 2
Position 4 2 S
Position 1 4 S
Position 1 4 S
Notes: Just a regular warmup... clearly there's some advantage to making it 'fun', boost in testosterone perhaps
Sunday, April 8, 2018
February 2018 - April 2018
Last couple of months have been:
Tumbling, learned some sills, gainers (standing, walking, scoot), wall flips off hands, barrany
Some climbing. Usually 2 1-2 hour bouldering sessions at the climbing team wall. Did a J-tree trip with Morgan, lots of good slab climbs. Nearly onsighted "Heart of Darkness" 11a on TR. Getting slightly better, but still much room for improvement
GOALS REVISED:
-Apparently there are way too many V4 standards on the moon board, so I will go with:
Do 20 so far I have 1. 1/20
-Still want to do that UCSB C level climb. I came close to one, just the last move. Perhaps next
Late March, Morgan invited me to Sender one. Did 2 V5's (if that counts... since it's sender grading) and Several V4's and V3's.... Wondering how much I've grown as a climber. Certainly have gained many experiences, but as far as getting physically stronger, progress seems slow
I feel like my hand is healed enough, so I'm going to begin hangboarding again once per week, Same format as before. 2 rounds of 6 sets of 7 seconds on, 5 seconds off with a 2 minute break between rounds
4/8
Set 1
Position 4 6 S -------- All 6 successful! (First time, I think)
Set 2
Tumbling, learned some sills, gainers (standing, walking, scoot), wall flips off hands, barrany
Some climbing. Usually 2 1-2 hour bouldering sessions at the climbing team wall. Did a J-tree trip with Morgan, lots of good slab climbs. Nearly onsighted "Heart of Darkness" 11a on TR. Getting slightly better, but still much room for improvement
GOALS REVISED:
-Apparently there are way too many V4 standards on the moon board, so I will go with:
Do 20 so far I have 1. 1/20
-Still want to do that UCSB C level climb. I came close to one, just the last move. Perhaps next
Late March, Morgan invited me to Sender one. Did 2 V5's (if that counts... since it's sender grading) and Several V4's and V3's.... Wondering how much I've grown as a climber. Certainly have gained many experiences, but as far as getting physically stronger, progress seems slow
I feel like my hand is healed enough, so I'm going to begin hangboarding again once per week, Same format as before. 2 rounds of 6 sets of 7 seconds on, 5 seconds off with a 2 minute break between rounds
4/8
Set 1
Position 4 6 S -------- All 6 successful! (First time, I think)
Set 2
Position 4 2 S
1 F (last second)
Position 1 2 S
1 F (last 2 seconds)
Notes: pretty darn good for some months break. Used chalk, maybe there is something to this whole chalk thing
4/15
1 F (last second)
Position 1 2 S
1 F (last 2 seconds)
Notes: pretty darn good for some months break. Used chalk, maybe there is something to this whole chalk thing
4/15
Set 1
Position 4 6 S
Set 2
Position 4 6 S
Set 2
Position 4 4 S
1 F (3 seconds in)
Position 1 1 S
Notes: good, but I think I need to make absolutely usre my thumb doesn't pinch the side. It helps too much. My last failure in position 4 was because I actively decided to disengage my thumb.
NO THUMB NEXT TIME!! (Fun warmup)
4/22
Set 1
Position 4 6 S
Set 2
1 F (3 seconds in)
Position 1 1 S
Notes: good, but I think I need to make absolutely usre my thumb doesn't pinch the side. It helps too much. My last failure in position 4 was because I actively decided to disengage my thumb.
NO THUMB NEXT TIME!! (Fun warmup)
4/22
Set 1
Position 4 6 S
Set 2
Position 4 2 S
1 F (3 seconds in)
Position 1 3 S
Notes: No thumb cheating this time. Definitely was more difficult to maintain. Couldn't hold on a single second longer at the end
1 F (3 seconds in)
Position 1 3 S
Notes: No thumb cheating this time. Definitely was more difficult to maintain. Couldn't hold on a single second longer at the end
Sunday, January 7, 2018
October 2017 - Jan 2018
So that hand pain turned out to be a bigger deal. It hurt to pull up the window switch in my car, or suspend something lightly from my left ring finger.
I took it easy and didn't climb all of the spring quarter (except one climbing comp to get raffle tickets for the end of the year) Now I'm easing back into it:
Did 2 separate climbing days in December with Morgan at sender one and it felt pain free
1 Jan
Aided a 5.7 in Ortega with Morgan, then practiced jugging
5 Jan
A few hours light indoor bouldering at school (v3 max)
7 Jan
Some more light bouldering (v3 max) and TR/autobelay (succesfully climbed 10a, two 10bs, tried two 10cs, an 11d and an 11a)
No pain, but I know it's not fully healed. Gonna try to go once/week for a bit
12 Jan
More bouldering and some Autobelaying (ARC training, tried a 10b twice then a 9 for one round, then another 10b once and a 9 twice) TR'd a route being built. The route setter needed a guinea pig
UCSB climbing team schedule for this winter quarter works out really well with my schedule. For the first time that I've seen, they're offering practices in the middle of the week that aren't from 9-11 at night. So every Tuesday and Thursday, I can (and will) be doing an hour of practice T and Th immediately following tumbling (so I'll already be well warmed up)
18 Jan
First of such team practices. We got a moon board this quarter, so on top of the boulder problems, I tried one of the V4 standards, It wasn't successful, but perhaps the next time. Was doing moderate B's (of our team's grade scale from the comps, we have 3 classes, A, B and C.
PRACTICE GOALS:
-Get at least one C, the easiest that exists, after each comp reset.
-Do all the V4 standards on the Moon board
I took it easy and didn't climb all of the spring quarter (except one climbing comp to get raffle tickets for the end of the year) Now I'm easing back into it:
Did 2 separate climbing days in December with Morgan at sender one and it felt pain free
1 Jan
Aided a 5.7 in Ortega with Morgan, then practiced jugging
5 Jan
A few hours light indoor bouldering at school (v3 max)
7 Jan
Some more light bouldering (v3 max) and TR/autobelay (succesfully climbed 10a, two 10bs, tried two 10cs, an 11d and an 11a)
No pain, but I know it's not fully healed. Gonna try to go once/week for a bit
12 Jan
More bouldering and some Autobelaying (ARC training, tried a 10b twice then a 9 for one round, then another 10b once and a 9 twice) TR'd a route being built. The route setter needed a guinea pig
UCSB climbing team schedule for this winter quarter works out really well with my schedule. For the first time that I've seen, they're offering practices in the middle of the week that aren't from 9-11 at night. So every Tuesday and Thursday, I can (and will) be doing an hour of practice T and Th immediately following tumbling (so I'll already be well warmed up)
18 Jan
First of such team practices. We got a moon board this quarter, so on top of the boulder problems, I tried one of the V4 standards, It wasn't successful, but perhaps the next time. Was doing moderate B's (of our team's grade scale from the comps, we have 3 classes, A, B and C.
PRACTICE GOALS:
-Get at least one C, the easiest that exists, after each comp reset.
-Do all the V4 standards on the Moon board
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