2 Jul -- Bouldering
warmup: 20-30 mins repeating many boulders up to V4
+
more climbs to V4, and V5 (3 new V4s)
5 Jul -- power
15-20 min traversing
+
Alpha wall
@5
V1 x3
V2 x1
V3 x3
@10
V1 x1
V2 x1
@15
V3 x4
V4 x1
+
TR
11c (near finish, fell 2-3 moves from top), 10c
(rest)
10d, 10a, 10b, 10c, 10a
NOTES: stuck to using mostly my MRP on the right hand to prevent straining the right index. Pretty good today, no issues
1 Jun -- ARC
4 rounds:
20m, 15m, 15m, 10m
NOTES: some finger pain over the previous days. No pain today during climb, but a bit of soreness afterwards. Ended 10 m on the last round because I tore a flapper :[
4 Jun -- light climbing
warmup: traversing on boulder wall
+
10c UD, 10b UD, rest, 10aUD,9UD, 9UD, 8UD
14 Jun -- light bouldering
1 hour working up to some V3's and a few V4's (including a new one. Balancy, flash)
+
10c UD, 10b UD
11 Jun -- power (moderate)
Alpha wall climbing
@10
V0 x 2
V1 x 7
V2 x 6
V3 x 1
@15
V2 x 1
V3 x 1
V4 x 1
NOTES: fairly successful. No major tweaks. Mostly the pain in the last few days was in the right index PIP. I think it's getting better each time.
15 Jun -- bouldering (moderate)
20-30 min warmup climbing various V1-V3
+
V4 attempts (2 new, successful)
V5 attempts (last move stuck)
18 Jun -- aerobic endurance
3 rounds of mostly constant climbing up then down (UD) on autobelays:
5.8 UD, 5.9 UD, 10c UD
10c UD, 10b UD
10a UD, 10b UD, 10b UD
Notes: right index gradually improving
21 Jun -- bouldering
New set
V1-V3 warmups
+
V4 x ?? 4 ??
V5 x ?? 3??
26 Jun -- bouldering
Autobelay w/u:
5.9 UD, 10c UD, 5.9 UD
10b UD, 10a UD, 5.8 UD
+
V3-V5
V4 x 4 (one new)
V5 x3
29 Jun -- endurance
Autobelay only:
5.9 UD, 10c UD, 5.9 UD
10b UD, 10a UD, 5.8 UD
10c UD, 10b UD, 10a UD, 5.9 UD, 5.9 UD, 5.8 UD
Notes: finger still hurts
1 May - endurance
On autobelay continuous other than switching times (represented with comma), a - means immediate. Up then down unless otherwise noted
8 - 9, 10a - 9, 10c -10b
rest 10 mins
10b U - 10c D - 10c U - 10b D, 9U - 8 D - 8U - 9D, 9U - 10a D - 10a U - 9 D
NOTE: I did this on 16 Apr as well. Felt a bit easier this time. i.e. I wasn't fully wiped from the 2nd round after the wall with the 10s
3 May - Power
W/U: 20 min traversing + several V2,V3 climbs
+
alpha wall
@10
V2 x3
V3 x 3
V4 x 2 <--- one of these was really hard
@15
V1
V2 x2
V4 x4
5 May - regular climbing
w/u: 20 min traversing + various climbs up V4
+
V5 projects
Attempted 3, got 1
7 May - power endurance
w/u: 4 laps up and down autobelay (10a,b)
+
various attempts on V4-V5 (two new V4's sucessful)
+
power endurance (5 rounds) DC 2:2
up V4, down VB, up V3, down V0, up V3, down V0, shake out on undercling until timer
NOTES: almost all rounds successful except for a slip on the V4 during the 4th round
10 May - outdoor climbing
Multipitch - BaiHe.
2 routes:
(二零一二)------ 6p (5.8-5.9)
(青龙) ---------- 8p (9,10a,0,101,9,10b,+2 pitches 4th class)
NOTES: left my phone basically up the mountain, so after the hike down, I had to hike back up then down
11 May - Regular climbing
~20 mins warmup boulder ladders V2-V3
+
V5 attempts - 3 sucessful!
NOTES: These 3 climbs I failed each previously. two had a dynamic start component, I essentially flashed or 2nd go'd them once I landed the dynamic component. The other I flashed. (I flashed for the day, technically not a flash because I had tried previously)
14 May -- hard bouldering
~20 min warmup V1-V3 + some new V4
+
alpha wall
@0
V0 x 2
V1 x 7
V2 x 1
V3 x 2
@30
V1
V3 x 2
V4 x 3
NOTES: Started out really, really tired. Even after I finished warming up, I thought the day was gonna be over real fast. But after starting the alpha board training and needing to squeeze hard, my spirit picked up
17 May -- power endurance
new protocol: 30-30s
(set the alpha wall, climb for 30 seconds on fast and intense climbing, like a quasi-sprint, and 30 seconds off resting for several rounds)
warmup - 20 mins wall traversing + various V2-V3 warmups
+
30-30's on alpha wall
@15. 4 rounds 30-30
NOTES: was aiming for 6 rounds, but my right right finger (PIP, more towards pinky end) was hurting a bit, so I called it after the 4thround. I actually felt it a little during the warmup.
21 May -- rope climbing
warmup:
nearly constant UD 4 routes 5.8-5.10a
+
mix of lead and TR climbing
10c,10b, 11a(TR, fail, quite hard), 10c, 10d(TR)
NOTES: PIP pain felt a little during warmup and after the 11a attempt. Felt much better than last time for sure
24 May -- bouldering
warmup: progressive w/u V1-V3
+
V4 x 6
V5 x 1
NOTES: No pain at all on my right ring PIP. Small pain in my thumb's join, but probably not a big deal
28 May -- TR and autobelay
nearly constant UD 4 routes 5.8-5.10a
+
10c UD (failed at end of down climb), 10b U
+
TR climbing
10c,10b (back to back)
two 10a-ish climbs back to back) (ish because created on the spot by combining portions of different climbs
NOTES: actually maybe the thumb pain was a big deal, I felt it over the intervening rest days. Also in my ring index PIP both on right hand. Thus today I did the lighter session to get blood flow and steer clear of max effort moves
2 Apr -- power endurance
warmup: ~20 mins on the bouldering wall (vertical) non-stop traversing/ climbing in Ws
+
A few V3s and V4s
+
V5 (the one I struggled with last time, I 1st go'd it today.*
+
5 rounds 2:2 DC
V4 up, V3 down, V3 up, V0 down, Mix V2/3 up, V1 down
NOTES: *The V5 wasn't smooth at the end, but I held it together. Will try to smoothen it out and hold it together. The main workout was pretty good, wall was slightly overhanging in th first 4 and vertical in the last 2. Surprised at how well controlled it was even at the last round
5 Apr -- bad climbing
Intended to do some bouldering, warmed up to a V4, worked on two V5's, but then suddenly, I got this cramp in my upper mid back (slightly to the right of center). Any amount of squeezing was just a bit too painful. So I left.
NOTES: maybe as a result of seeing random facebook ads show up, I saw some videos of "movement by david" encouraging you to "stay flexy" and given today's "incident", it inspired me to do some sitting on the floor, random (and weird) stretching. Moving my spine like a snake, putting my feet up on a chair in a sort of "raised feet crab walk pose". I might do some more of this several times a day. Gotta stay youthfully flexible.
9 Apr -- endurance
Short session, up and down each route on each autobelay, this time starting from the middle, then the easier ones to "rest a bit" before trying the last ones. No success on the down climb of the 10d (no help from an early fall and restart), but the 10c shortly after yes.
12 Apr -- power
Warumup: random traversing and bouldering to V3
+
alpha wall @50 degrees
V1
V2 x 6
V3
+ several attempts on several V4s, quite hard
NOTES: At first I felt that middle back/neck pain on even simple warmups, but it went away though fortunately, at least it didn't hurt when I was trying the alpha wall. I feel the pressure though still now.
16 Apr -- endurance
On autobelay continuous other than switching times (represented with comma), a - means immediate. Up then down unless otherwise noted
8 - 9, 10a - 9, 10c -10b
rest 5-10 mins
10b U - 10c D - 10c U - 10b D, 9U - 8 D - 8U - 9D, 9U - 10a D - 10a U - 9 D
NOTES: in total, counting the down pitches, it's 24 pitches for about two 12-pitch rounds. Though it was tiring, felt nearly power-endurancy at times. Definitely above around the aerobic limit
19 Apr -- some bouldering
Not a lot of focus today because I was hanging out with the kid. Warmed up, then worked on a V5 which has a big dyno in the beginning followed by powerful pinchy volumes. I did better today than last week because 3 of the 4 times I tried, I could catch the dyno
+
Swimming
Mostly enjoyable, But I did 1 round of 5 minutes continuous. I did 5 laps in those 5 minutes.
24 Apr -- power
Warmup: 20 minutes spread betweeen traversing the alpha wall @8 degrees and the vertical wall to the side
+
alpha wall @20:
several attempts over 30 minutes on 2 hard problems. No success on either
(listed actually as V3 but it felt like V5/6)
+
flashing cooldown routes @20 on alpha wall:
V3
V2x10
V1x2
NOTES: I'm not sure if the routes set at the 20 degree are hard or if I'm weak today. I did V2s and 3s less than 2 weeks ago on the 50 degree angle.
26 -- regular bouldering
warmup new V1-V3's up and down, plus some V4's
+
sampling all the V5's, a V6 and V7 (flashed one V5 because it was slabby)
After a 3 month break post surgery, I'm going to climb again
15 Mar - Light day
Climbing up and down autobelays 5.8-5.10c. Some bouldering V1-V2
NOTES: No pain, but I still want to gently ease into things. Skin is overly sensitive though
16 Mar - Light day
Climbing up and down autobelays 5.8-5.10c. Some bouldering V2-V3 + 1 balancy V4
19 Mar - endurance - Autobelay
8 - UD
10a - UD
10b - UD
9 - UD
10d
10c
10d - U half D
10c - U 3/4D
10b - UD
9 - UD
10a - UD
8 - UD
------ 21 pitches plus the attempted down and 3/4 down for the 10c and 10d
22 Mar - light climbing
10d - UD
10c - UD
+ all boulders V1-V3 in the gym
23 Mar -- less light climbing
V1-V3 warmups
All v4s (5)
Several attempts on a V5. no send though
NOTES: elbow pain. 3 days per week for 2 weeks in a row probably too much too soon
29 Mar -- harder climbing
V3-V4 warmups
Many attempts on V5 (close, no send)
+
alpha wall climbing
@15 degrees:
V2
V3 x2
V4
30 Mar -- recovery endurance
8 - UD
10a - UD
10b - UD
9 - UD
10d
10c
10d
10c
10b
9
10a
8
+ 5 sets of 20 pushups (a few minutes between sets)
NOTES: elbow pain, like last weekend