3 Dec - Linked Boulder Circuits
ARC 15 min w/u
WBL - 15 min, V0 - V2 x 2, V3 x3 V4 x2
hard bouldering - 20 min (finished this pink V5 I've been working on :] )
LBC - Duty cycle 2:4
(first 4 rounds, I got down to, but failed to grab the final V4, 5th rnd, not even close to grabbing the starter V4, 6th round - couldn't get up the V3)
6 Dec - Red point attempts
ARC 15 min w/u
block of 4 - 10a, 10d, 10d, 10b
Tried 2 climbs - white 11d ( 8 bolts + chains), yellow 11d (11 bolts + chains)
white 11d - 1 attempt. Clipped bolt 6 then hung, clipped another, hung, lowered
yellow 11d - 1 attempt. Clipped bolt 5, then hung, then clipped 5 bolts, hung, lowered
+
2 moderates - 10d hung after 5 bolts, lowered. 10b chains
7 Dec - Red point attempts
ARC - 10 min w/u
block of 4 - 10c, 10d, 10c, 10b
Tried same two climbs
Successfully got the yellow 11d first go of the day (2nd go overall)
Tried the white 11d again, got only 4 bolts in
+
2 moderates - 10b, 10c
11 Dec - LBC
-ARC w/u
-WBL - 15 min
-Hard bouldering -20 min
(tried yellow volume V5 and blue V7)
New circuit(due to construction). DC - 2:3
V3, V1, V3, V2, V3 (last V3 like 2nd)
1 - fell on last V3
2 -fell on last V3 going for top
3 - fell on last V3
4 - fell on 2nd V3 going for top (1:3)
5 - fell 2nd V3 going for top
+
12 min ARC cooldown ( extra pumped)
13 Dec - red point attempts
-ARC w/u - 15 mins
-Block of 4 - 10a, 10b, 10d, 10d
-Redpoint attempts:
-White 11d - 1 attempt , go to 7th draw, hung, got 2 more draws, hung, to chain
- green techy 11b (not enough rest before last attempt, so I figured this was decent)
+
12a dihedral cool down (TR, onsight)
15 Dec - red point attempts
-Block of 5 - 10a through 10b (semi-speed climbing)
-Redpoint attempts:
-white 11d, x3 each time made it to the 5th clip. (on 2nd go, I hung and tried the upper portion). I did it pretty efficiently on the 3rd go, but I was gassed
+
2 cooldown moderates; thin green 11b, fall at 2nd to last draw, 10b on speed wall (i.e. slight overhang)
NOTES: Mikayla and I broke up later this evening :[ It didn't affect the session, but it might affect ones that follow. It was 3 years that had its ups and downs. Still, I'm only dwelling on the positives which makes it so fucking hard.
18 Dec - LBC
-ARC w/u - 15 min
-WBL - 15 min (2 each V0 - V4)
- hard bouldering - 20 min (Did yellow V5 volumes, got it 2nd go, tried the pink project, got it in one go)
- Linked Boulder Circuit. Did the same "new" one as last time DC 1:1
1 - complete ~1:45
2 - complete ~1:40
3 - complete ~ 1:45
4 - fell going for last hold~ 1:30
5 - fell at top of 2nd V3 ~ 1:00
6 - fell in middle of 2nd V3 ~ 1:00
NOTES: No cooldown, I rushed out to meetup with CC to talk about Mikayla.
21 Dec - Red point attempts
- Arc w/u 15 min
- block of 4 (10b,10d, 11a, 10c)
- 2 attempts on my 11d (1st go was great, I got all the draws except the anchors. 2nd go was only slightly better then my previous days, I clipped the 6th bolt but was able to move past it
- 2 moderates for cooldown (11a, 10c)
22 Dec - Outdoor climbing (Joshua Tree)
With serge
- 2 multipitches (4p and 3p, 5.6 and 5.8, both very slabby)
- lead OS a 5.9 (Rites of Spring) in isles in the sky
- pinkpoint Bird of Fire 10a (no falls, but I TR solo'd this in April so not technically onsight)
24 Dec - Route intervals
- block of 4 (10a, 10d, 10b, 10d)
- Route Intervals - 11b (plan: lead the first, get lowered quickly and TR the rest)
3 sets, DC 4:4
1. one lead, one full TR, then TR half up before timer went off
2. one lead, one fall on TR half way, another poor attempt on TR before falling and stopping
3. failed lead, ended early
+
rattly fingers crack to practice skills (fall near top, and lots of gastoning or lieback
- 2 moderates for cooldown (11b, 11a)
26 Dec - Just regular climbing
Climbed with a girl, Reina (cute). So the plan was just moderates
- 10d - her first time lead belaying, so Iwent to the 4th clip then fell on purpose
- 10b
- 10d, 11a
- 11c
- 11c (fall)
29 Dec - More regular climbing
Climbed with Reina and her friends
- Crack w/u
- 11b - lead, black arete
- 11c - TR
- 11b - TR
- 11c - lead, black roof
- 11d TR
- hand crack
- 11b - TR dihedral
- 11d - TR thin yellow
Wednesday, December 4, 2019
Friday, November 1, 2019
Nov 2019
1 Nov --HB#3
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-40)
4 ----------------- 6S (-55) -----: very hard, can't go lower
5 ----------------- 6S (-45)
6 ----------------- 6S (-35)
7 ----------------- 6S (-50)
8 ----------------- 4S-9-7 (-30)----: i.e. 4 successes, then 9s/10s, 7s/10s
9 ----------------- 5S-6 (-40)
+
Suplemental exercises
3 supersets of:
- 8 shoulder presses (wobbly 25lb weight off sling) (did 9 last round accidentally)
- 8 1-legged squats
- 8 sitting leg lifts
4 Nov --HB#4 -- (same weights as last time)
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-40)
4 ----------------- 6S (-55) -----: still very hard, can't go lower
5 ----------------- 6S (-45)
6 ----------------- 6S (-35)
7 ----------------- 6S (-50)
8 ----------------- 6S (-30)
9 ----------------- 6S (-40)
+
Suplemental exercises
3 supersets of:
- 8 shoulder pushups (in a v shape angled downward)
- 8 sec hanging legs (last round I just held for as long as possible)
- 8 standing vertical rows (40 lbs)
7 Nov --HB#5
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-25)
3 ----------------- 6S (-37.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-55) -----: very hard still
5 ----------------- 6S (-42.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-32.5)
7 ----------------- 6S (-47.5)
8 ----------------- 5S-8 (-27.5)
9 ----------------- 5S-9.5 (-37.5)
+
Suplemental exercises
3 supersets of:
- 8 lateral-front raises (10 lbs) (raise weight to front, move to side and lower, then back)
- hanging legs (as long as perfect form, ~10-15 seconds each time
- 8 "one-arm pullups" (feet on ground, doign pullups off morgan's truck, 4 each arm, other hand grabbing slightly
10 Nov --HB#6
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-22.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-35)
4 ----------------- 6S (-52.5) -----: super hard! Ridiculous that I didn't fail
5 ----------------- 6S (-40)
6 ----------------- 6S (-30)
7 ----------------- 3S-3-6-5 (-45)
8 ----------------- 4S-5-8 (-25)---: added weight despite failing, not bad
9 ----------------- 5S-7 (-35) -----: added weight despite failing, not bad
+
Suplemental exercises
3 supersets of:
- quad bridge (feet in, knees out, bridge against shoulders, hold for ~20 sec)
- 5 presses from side plank (each arm)
- 8 curls ea. arm (35lbs?)
13 Nov --HB#7
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-20)
3 ----------------- 6S (-32.5)
4 ----------------- 3S-6-6-6 (-50) -----: super hard! Ridiculous that I didn't fail
5 ----------------- 6S (-37.5) ----------: tweaky near the end
6 ----------------- 5S-9 (-27.5)
7 ----------------- 3S-9-6-7 (-42.5) ---: added weight despite failing, times still improved!
8 ----------------- 3S-8-7-6 (-22.5)---: added weight despite failing, not bad
9 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-32.5) -----: added weight despite failing, not bad
+
Supplemental exercises
3 supersets of:
- 6 weighted pullups (30lbs)
- 6 hspu against wall (5 last round)
POWER PHASE
16 Nov - Moon Board
- ARC w/u - 20 min
- Boulder ladders - 30 min
V0 x 4, V1 x 4, V2 x 4, V3 x 3, V4 x 3
-Hard bouldering- 10 min
Tried two V5s, close on the first (only one go, but more technical than hard)
-Moon Board - 30 min
Got 2 of 4
+
Supplemental exercises
3 super sets of:
-4 1-arm inverted rows (rings)
-5 1 arm kettle bell shoulder presses (36lbs)
-5 ab rollouts (knees, to face on floor)
19 Nov - Limit Bouldering
- ARC w/u - 20 min
- Boulder ladders - 30 min
V0 - V4 x 4
-Hard bouldering - 30 min
Tried 4 V5's: - flash, 2nd go, fail, fail
21 Nov - Campusing
- Arc w/u - 20 min
- Boulder ladders - 30 min V0 - V2 x4, V3x3, V4 x2
- Hard bouldering - Did a V4 that was troublesome, 3rd go, and tried a V5 a few times
- Campusing. Attempted 8 sets of matching ladders (B1-L2-R2-L3-R3-L4-R4 then switch next rnd)
Succeeded only on 1st and 3rd, getting 2-3 moves for the rest
+
Supplemental exercises
3 supersets of
- weighted dips (71 lbs) 4-3-3
- one-leg out front lever attempts
- shoulder press (45lb KB) 5-5-3 (tried 40 at end but failed)
24 Nov - Climbing
Suicide rocks:
-"Yours" 2p 5.7
-"Flower of High rank" 5. - RP 2nd go
-"peer pressure" 10a TR
25 Nov - Limit Bouldering
- w/u ~ 40 mins
10b up,down, 10d up - 10c up down, 11b up
- Hard bouldering 30 min - V5- 2 attemps -fail. V5 3rd go V6 - 3 attempts - f
+
supplementary exercises
3 Supersets of:
- lock offs on system wall - 5 ea side
- 5 hspu (added 2 inch block last round
- 6 hanging leg raises
- 15 seconds hard plank
27 Nov - campus board
- ARC w/u - 20 min
- Warmup boulder ladders -30 min
(V0 & V1 x 3, V2 & V3 x 4, V4 x 2)
- Hard bouldering - 10 min
(Attempted V6 and V7)
- campusing - attempted 8 sets of matching ladders B1-L2-R2-L3-R3-L4-R4 then switch
Didn't get any but consistantly got to one or both on 3
+
Supplementary exercises
3 sets of:
-Bench press - 5 (135 lb)
-One arm ring rows (5 ea)
-ab roller - from knees, nose to ground
NOTES: campus, though I didn't complete it, I did much better overall, so improvement!
POWER ENDURANCE PHASE
30 Nov - Linked Boulder Circuits (LBC)
- ARC w/u 15 min
- Warmup Boulder Ladders - 15 min
- Hard bouldering - 20 min (got closer on my pink V5)
- Linked Boulder Circuit - DC 2:4 - up V4, down V1, up V3, down anything, up V4
(first 4 I got to the beginning of the last V4. The last two I was pumping out starting the V3)
isabellagaleazzi
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-40)
4 ----------------- 6S (-55) -----: very hard, can't go lower
5 ----------------- 6S (-45)
6 ----------------- 6S (-35)
7 ----------------- 6S (-50)
8 ----------------- 4S-9-7 (-30)----: i.e. 4 successes, then 9s/10s, 7s/10s
9 ----------------- 5S-6 (-40)
+
Suplemental exercises
3 supersets of:
- 8 shoulder presses (wobbly 25lb weight off sling) (did 9 last round accidentally)
- 8 1-legged squats
- 8 sitting leg lifts
4 Nov --HB#4 -- (same weights as last time)
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-40)
4 ----------------- 6S (-55) -----: still very hard, can't go lower
5 ----------------- 6S (-45)
6 ----------------- 6S (-35)
7 ----------------- 6S (-50)
8 ----------------- 6S (-30)
9 ----------------- 6S (-40)
+
Suplemental exercises
3 supersets of:
- 8 shoulder pushups (in a v shape angled downward)
- 8 sec hanging legs (last round I just held for as long as possible)
- 8 standing vertical rows (40 lbs)
7 Nov --HB#5
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-25)
3 ----------------- 6S (-37.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-55) -----: very hard still
5 ----------------- 6S (-42.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-32.5)
7 ----------------- 6S (-47.5)
8 ----------------- 5S-8 (-27.5)
9 ----------------- 5S-9.5 (-37.5)
+
Suplemental exercises
3 supersets of:
- 8 lateral-front raises (10 lbs) (raise weight to front, move to side and lower, then back)
- hanging legs (as long as perfect form, ~10-15 seconds each time
- 8 "one-arm pullups" (feet on ground, doign pullups off morgan's truck, 4 each arm, other hand grabbing slightly
10 Nov --HB#6
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-22.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-35)
4 ----------------- 6S (-52.5) -----: super hard! Ridiculous that I didn't fail
5 ----------------- 6S (-40)
6 ----------------- 6S (-30)
7 ----------------- 3S-3-6-5 (-45)
8 ----------------- 4S-5-8 (-25)---: added weight despite failing, not bad
9 ----------------- 5S-7 (-35) -----: added weight despite failing, not bad
+
Suplemental exercises
3 supersets of:
- quad bridge (feet in, knees out, bridge against shoulders, hold for ~20 sec)
- 5 presses from side plank (each arm)
- 8 curls ea. arm (35lbs?)
13 Nov --HB#7
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-20)
3 ----------------- 6S (-32.5)
4 ----------------- 3S-6-6-6 (-50) -----: super hard! Ridiculous that I didn't fail
5 ----------------- 6S (-37.5) ----------: tweaky near the end
6 ----------------- 5S-9 (-27.5)
7 ----------------- 3S-9-6-7 (-42.5) ---: added weight despite failing, times still improved!
8 ----------------- 3S-8-7-6 (-22.5)---: added weight despite failing, not bad
9 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-32.5) -----: added weight despite failing, not bad
+
Supplemental exercises
3 supersets of:
- 6 weighted pullups (30lbs)
- 6 hspu against wall (5 last round)
POWER PHASE
16 Nov - Moon Board
- ARC w/u - 20 min
- Boulder ladders - 30 min
V0 x 4, V1 x 4, V2 x 4, V3 x 3, V4 x 3
-Hard bouldering- 10 min
Tried two V5s, close on the first (only one go, but more technical than hard)
-Moon Board - 30 min
Got 2 of 4
+
Supplemental exercises
3 super sets of:
-4 1-arm inverted rows (rings)
-5 1 arm kettle bell shoulder presses (36lbs)
-5 ab rollouts (knees, to face on floor)
19 Nov - Limit Bouldering
- ARC w/u - 20 min
- Boulder ladders - 30 min
V0 - V4 x 4
-Hard bouldering - 30 min
Tried 4 V5's: - flash, 2nd go, fail, fail
21 Nov - Campusing
- Arc w/u - 20 min
- Boulder ladders - 30 min V0 - V2 x4, V3x3, V4 x2
- Hard bouldering - Did a V4 that was troublesome, 3rd go, and tried a V5 a few times
- Campusing. Attempted 8 sets of matching ladders (B1-L2-R2-L3-R3-L4-R4 then switch next rnd)
Succeeded only on 1st and 3rd, getting 2-3 moves for the rest
+
Supplemental exercises
3 supersets of
- weighted dips (71 lbs) 4-3-3
- one-leg out front lever attempts
- shoulder press (45lb KB) 5-5-3 (tried 40 at end but failed)
24 Nov - Climbing
Suicide rocks:
-"Yours" 2p 5.7
-"Flower of High rank" 5. - RP 2nd go
-"peer pressure" 10a TR
25 Nov - Limit Bouldering
- w/u ~ 40 mins
10b up,down, 10d up - 10c up down, 11b up
- Hard bouldering 30 min - V5- 2 attemps -fail. V5 3rd go V6 - 3 attempts - f
+
supplementary exercises
3 Supersets of:
- lock offs on system wall - 5 ea side
- 5 hspu (added 2 inch block last round
- 6 hanging leg raises
- 15 seconds hard plank
27 Nov - campus board
- ARC w/u - 20 min
- Warmup boulder ladders -30 min
(V0 & V1 x 3, V2 & V3 x 4, V4 x 2)
- Hard bouldering - 10 min
(Attempted V6 and V7)
- campusing - attempted 8 sets of matching ladders B1-L2-R2-L3-R3-L4-R4 then switch
Didn't get any but consistantly got to one or both on 3
+
Supplementary exercises
3 sets of:
-Bench press - 5 (135 lb)
-One arm ring rows (5 ea)
-ab roller - from knees, nose to ground
NOTES: campus, though I didn't complete it, I did much better overall, so improvement!
POWER ENDURANCE PHASE
30 Nov - Linked Boulder Circuits (LBC)
- ARC w/u 15 min
- Warmup Boulder Ladders - 15 min
- Hard bouldering - 20 min (got closer on my pink V5)
- Linked Boulder Circuit - DC 2:4 - up V4, down V1, up V3, down anything, up V4
(first 4 I got to the beginning of the last V4. The last two I was pumping out starting the V3)
isabellagaleazzi
Saturday, September 28, 2019
Sep/Oct 2019
First Full RCTM cycle!:
Phase 1 - General fitness
28 Sep - 8 moderates
w/u - up/down,up/down on a 10a
10a,10b,10d,10d,10d,10b,11a(f),10a(f) - performed in blocks of 2 (Did 8 accidentally instead of 6)
29 Sep - 4 moderates
w/u - up/down,up/down on a 10a
10b,10c,10c,10b - in blocks of 2
1 Oct - ARC
2 x 20 (swapping with Morgan on a TR wall)
3 OCT - ARC
2 x 25 (traversing and climbing up, down, in a W pattern on the wall)
5 Oct - 7 moderates
W/u up down up down 10a
10b/c x4, 10d, 10c, 11d (dihedral)
6 oct - 5 moderates
W/u udud 10a
10d, 10c, 10d,10c,10b
8 Oct - 2x30 ARC
10 Oct - 2x30 ARC
12 Oct - 8 moderates
10b,10c,11b,10c, hand crack, 11a,10d,11a
13 Oct - 6 moderates
Climbed "the long climb in taquitz" 6 pitches
15 Oct- ARC
3 x 25
17 Oct - ARC
3 x 25 (very fun today, also missed yesterday, so I did3 sets instead of 2)
20 Oct - 10 moderates
10c,10d,11a,11b,11b(f),11b,10d, 11a,10c, 11d(dihedral, f)
22 Oct - ARC
3 x 30
23 Oct - ARC
3 x 30
24 Oct - ARC
2 x 30 (fun the 2nd round)
STRENGTH PHASE
26 OCT --HB#1
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-20) ---------------:: too easy, did deeper pocket accidentally
3 ----------------- 6S (-45)
4 ----------------- 6S (-60)
5 ----------------- 6S (-50)
6 ----------------- 6S (-45) -----:: too easy, swapped and did wrong edge size
7 ----------------- 6S (-55)
8 ----------------- 6S (-35)
9 ----------------- 6S (-45)
Eased into, didn't do much of a warmup, subtract 2.5 - 5 lbs next time
29 OCT --HB#2
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 5S 5s on 3rd round (-17.5) ------:: too hard with small edge, add 10 next time
3 ----------------- 6S (-42.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-57.5)
5 ----------------- 6S (-47.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-42.5) -----:: too easy drop 7.5 next time
7 ----------------- 6S (-52.5)
8 ----------------- 6S (-32.5)
9 ----------------- 6S (-42.5)
+
Suplemental exercises
3 supersets of:
- 8 chair dips
- 8 posterior raises (5 lbs)
- 8 forceful bridge squeezes
Phase 1 - General fitness
28 Sep - 8 moderates
w/u - up/down,up/down on a 10a
10a,10b,10d,10d,10d,10b,11a(f),10a(f) - performed in blocks of 2 (Did 8 accidentally instead of 6)
29 Sep - 4 moderates
w/u - up/down,up/down on a 10a
10b,10c,10c,10b - in blocks of 2
1 Oct - ARC
2 x 20 (swapping with Morgan on a TR wall)
3 OCT - ARC
2 x 25 (traversing and climbing up, down, in a W pattern on the wall)
5 Oct - 7 moderates
W/u up down up down 10a
10b/c x4, 10d, 10c, 11d (dihedral)
6 oct - 5 moderates
W/u udud 10a
10d, 10c, 10d,10c,10b
8 Oct - 2x30 ARC
10 Oct - 2x30 ARC
12 Oct - 8 moderates
10b,10c,11b,10c, hand crack, 11a,10d,11a
13 Oct - 6 moderates
Climbed "the long climb in taquitz" 6 pitches
15 Oct- ARC
3 x 25
17 Oct - ARC
3 x 25 (very fun today, also missed yesterday, so I did3 sets instead of 2)
20 Oct - 10 moderates
10c,10d,11a,11b,11b(f),11b,10d, 11a,10c, 11d(dihedral, f)
22 Oct - ARC
3 x 30
23 Oct - ARC
3 x 30
24 Oct - ARC
2 x 30 (fun the 2nd round)
STRENGTH PHASE
26 OCT --HB#1
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-20) ---------------:: too easy, did deeper pocket accidentally
3 ----------------- 6S (-45)
4 ----------------- 6S (-60)
5 ----------------- 6S (-50)
6 ----------------- 6S (-45) -----:: too easy, swapped and did wrong edge size
7 ----------------- 6S (-55)
8 ----------------- 6S (-35)
9 ----------------- 6S (-45)
Eased into, didn't do much of a warmup, subtract 2.5 - 5 lbs next time
29 OCT --HB#2
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 5S 5s on 3rd round (-17.5) ------:: too hard with small edge, add 10 next time
3 ----------------- 6S (-42.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-57.5)
5 ----------------- 6S (-47.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-42.5) -----:: too easy drop 7.5 next time
7 ----------------- 6S (-52.5)
8 ----------------- 6S (-32.5)
9 ----------------- 6S (-42.5)
+
Suplemental exercises
3 supersets of:
- 8 chair dips
- 8 posterior raises (5 lbs)
- 8 forceful bridge squeezes
A breif catch up
April to Mid June was a HUGE climbing trip. Southern CA to Arizona, to Utah to Nevada to middle and Northen California, to WA and all the way back down the CA coast
Did around 200 climbs (101 in the month of April), got my first 10a trad lead in Joshua tree (err ok it was a pink point, but it was HARD), Lead my first successful 11s (4: one 11a Onsights, two llb OS and one 11a redpoint) Then did several trad 10s in indian creek (soft but still counts for the grade I think).
Since then I've done but didn't log numerous climbs in the gym, Getting an 11c I believe, and several other 11s during the 4x4's with Morgan. I got 3 in a row at one point. And now, after 3 months of the trip ends, I've been granted a climbing membership to senderOne and I'm about to start my first full 17 week training cycle with Morgan!
Did around 200 climbs (101 in the month of April), got my first 10a trad lead in Joshua tree (err ok it was a pink point, but it was HARD), Lead my first successful 11s (4: one 11a Onsights, two llb OS and one 11a redpoint) Then did several trad 10s in indian creek (soft but still counts for the grade I think).
Since then I've done but didn't log numerous climbs in the gym, Getting an 11c I believe, and several other 11s during the 4x4's with Morgan. I got 3 in a row at one point. And now, after 3 months of the trip ends, I've been granted a climbing membership to senderOne and I'm about to start my first full 17 week training cycle with Morgan!
Saturday, March 2, 2019
Mar 2019
1 Mar -- Redpoint attempts
-20 min w/u including ARCing and moderate climbs up to 10d
redpoint attempts:
11a (pink) - 2 burns
11b (purple) - 2 burns
unknown (pink)- feels like 11b, 2 burns,
NOTES: No sends, but decent performance. The pink 11a had tricky sequence but wasn't particularly taxing. purple 11b I managed most of the way the first time through (fell more on the 2nd attempt) but fell at the end. Pink unknown I couldn't get past the bottom on the first go, once I tried it later, I slipped a lot in different spots. It's not a "realistic/outdoor" problem, so I'm not too concerned
2 Mar -- Redpoint attempts
-20 min w/u with ARCing and some moderates (onsighted a 10d+)
redpoint attempts:
11a (pink) - got it first go today
11b (purple) - fell same spot near the top. couldn't complete it though even after the hang
11b (tan) - Got most of the way, fell near the end, missed a critical foothold, will try next time
11c (black) - Got most of the way, fell near the end again from missing an obvious handhold, however, it was still tough higher up
11c (yellow) - Tried this last training cycle. I linked the first half today nicely, then hangdogged the rest. Progress for sure compared to last cycle
5 Mar -- route intervals
-1 hour gymnastics warmup
-15 min boulder ladders
-route intervals:
6 rounds laps on a 10a (duty cycle 2:4)
Reps: 3, 3, 3, 2.5, 2, 2, 1.5
(Approximately)
PERFORMANCE PHASE
8 Mar -- Redpoint attempts (autobelay)
(warmup unknown, perhaps some ARCing then moderates for warmups)
11b (Green) - No Go, 2 or 3 attempts, falling somewhere in the middle
11d (black) - No Go, 2 or 3 attempts, falling at this slippery hold or slightly above
9 Mar -- Climbing Comp
only got two climbs, a B33 and B26. Close to B32 and B30 (one move away for both)
Not my best competition unfortunately
12 Mar -- Redpoint attempts (auto belay only)
Very little warmup (no noticeable affects in performance, but not good to make a habit)
Did the tan 11b without a hitch
Attempted Black 11d and green 11c twice apiece. Made more progress for both
15 Mar -- Redpoint attempts (auto belay)
w/u 15 min ARC, up and down climb moderates (10a,10b)
Redpoint attempts:
No successes, but tried green 11b and black 11d alternating,3 times apiece
16 Mar -- Redpoint attempts
w/u 15 min ARC, moderate 10c
Redpoint attempts:
yellow 11c x2 (no send, good work though)
red 11 (unkown grade)
green 11d x2 (no send, VERY good though. 2 falls each time nearish the top)
5 Mar -- route intervals
-1 hour gymnastics warmup
-15 min boulder ladders
-route intervals:
6 rounds laps on a 10a (duty cycle 2:4)
Reps: 3, 3, 3, 2.5, 2, 2, 1.5
(Approximately)
PERFORMANCE PHASE
8 Mar -- Redpoint attempts (autobelay)
(warmup unknown, perhaps some ARCing then moderates for warmups)
11b (Green) - No Go, 2 or 3 attempts, falling somewhere in the middle
11d (black) - No Go, 2 or 3 attempts, falling at this slippery hold or slightly above
9 Mar -- Climbing Comp
only got two climbs, a B33 and B26. Close to B32 and B30 (one move away for both)
Not my best competition unfortunately
12 Mar -- Redpoint attempts (auto belay only)
Very little warmup (no noticeable affects in performance, but not good to make a habit)
Did the tan 11b without a hitch
Attempted Black 11d and green 11c twice apiece. Made more progress for both
15 Mar -- Redpoint attempts (auto belay)
w/u 15 min ARC, up and down climb moderates (10a,10b)
Redpoint attempts:
No successes, but tried green 11b and black 11d alternating,3 times apiece
16 Mar -- Redpoint attempts
w/u 15 min ARC, moderate 10c
Redpoint attempts:
yellow 11c x2 (no send, good work though)
red 11 (unkown grade)
green 11d x2 (no send, VERY good though. 2 falls each time nearish the top)
Friday, February 1, 2019
Feb 2019
29 Jan --HB#5
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-10) ---------------:: Felt more solid
3 ----------------- 6S (-35.5) --------::
4 ----------------- 3S 6 4 2 (-46 + jug) -----:: Better
5 ----------------- 4S 9 5 (-35.5)---------:: Worse, but I also added weight*
6 ----------------- 4S 9 4 (-15) ----:: slightly worse
7 ----------------- 3S 9 5 3 (-46)--:: slightly worse
8 ----------------- 3S 6 5 4 (-20) ----:: slightly worse
9 ----------------- 4S 6 7 (-38) --------- :: worse
Notes: I forgot and ate dinner beforehand, so there was more weight added overall than I intended
* Started to feel tweaky. I may have been able to hold it, but I didn't want to risk injury
POWER PHASE
4 Feb -- Light bouldering (right ring finger a little strained)
5 Feb -- limit bouldering (team wall)
-Gymnastics class as big warmup
-30 min boulder ladders
- 30 min hard bouldering
-20 min limit bouldering
+
10 hspu
Notes: finger feels fine, the very very long warmup is essential!!
6 Feb-- light climbing
Just a couple of routes 10a, 7
+
4 mile bike ride
+
4 x 50 hand extensions (med blue band)
7 Feb -- Moonboarding
~ 1 hour of gymnastics (front handspring on floor and vault)
+
(tem wall)
15 mins ARC
30 mins boulder ladders
10 mins hard bouldering
~40 mins moonboarding (worked on one problem, good progress)
10 Feb -- limit bouldering
(in rec center wall)
-25 min ARC
-30 min boulder ladders
-30 min hard bouldering (tried 2 V4s, no success)
-20 min limit bouldering (continue with V4s and a V5)
+
SE
Weighted dips (60lb) 5-5-4
Superset of TRX piles and one arm shoulder press off a hinged barbell (40lb)
8-8-8, 6-5-5
12 Feb -- moonboarding
-gymnastics warmup
(team wall)
-30 min boulder ladders
-20 min hard bouldering
-40 min moonboarding
Notes: no moonboard sends. Worked on "wuthering heights", "bitter" and "an easy problem"
15 Feb -- Limit bouldering
(rec center wall)
-20 min ARC
-30 min boulder ladders
-30 min hard bouldering
-30 min limit bouldering
+
some negatives of heavy KB's (35-65 lbs) as well as pullups lowering (for elbow pain maintenance)
BEGIN POWER ENDURANCE PHASE
19 Feb - boulder circuits
-50 min gymnastics warmup***
-20 min boulder ladders
-20 min hardish bouldering
-6 rounds 2:4 duty cycle
1st round was nearly successful, I used the teams wall A17, B35, B26, B22. Tries that again but didn't come close for round 2 and 3, then I dropped it down and did, A17,B22,A10,A19. Did the 5th round nearly successful, but couldn't really finish the 6th. It was rough because of the fall
**fell on my neck trying a split leg gainer. Heard and felt a nice big crack down my neck and spine. Feels like a pony jed nerve in the middle of my back
Took weekend off to visit Mikayay, also was probably a good idea to rest neck
26 Feb - boulder circuits
-30 min gymnastic warmup
-20 min boulder ladders
-20 min hard bouldering
-6 rounds 2:4 duty cycle
did the A17,B22,A10,A19 circuit. Never actually completed it perfectly either round. But on the 2nd I did do them all during the time limit, even though falling was certainly included
Notes: Neck is feeling better. I lucked out with the fall, no permanent damage
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-10) ---------------:: Felt more solid
3 ----------------- 6S (-35.5) --------::
4 ----------------- 3S 6 4 2 (-46 + jug) -----:: Better
5 ----------------- 4S 9 5 (-35.5)---------:: Worse, but I also added weight*
6 ----------------- 4S 9 4 (-15) ----:: slightly worse
7 ----------------- 3S 9 5 3 (-46)--:: slightly worse
8 ----------------- 3S 6 5 4 (-20) ----:: slightly worse
9 ----------------- 4S 6 7 (-38) --------- :: worse
Notes: I forgot and ate dinner beforehand, so there was more weight added overall than I intended
* Started to feel tweaky. I may have been able to hold it, but I didn't want to risk injury
POWER PHASE
4 Feb -- Light bouldering (right ring finger a little strained)
5 Feb -- limit bouldering (team wall)
-Gymnastics class as big warmup
-30 min boulder ladders
- 30 min hard bouldering
-20 min limit bouldering
+
10 hspu
Notes: finger feels fine, the very very long warmup is essential!!
6 Feb-- light climbing
Just a couple of routes 10a, 7
+
4 mile bike ride
+
4 x 50 hand extensions (med blue band)
7 Feb -- Moonboarding
~ 1 hour of gymnastics (front handspring on floor and vault)
+
(tem wall)
15 mins ARC
30 mins boulder ladders
10 mins hard bouldering
~40 mins moonboarding (worked on one problem, good progress)
10 Feb -- limit bouldering
(in rec center wall)
-25 min ARC
-30 min boulder ladders
-30 min hard bouldering (tried 2 V4s, no success)
-20 min limit bouldering (continue with V4s and a V5)
+
SE
Weighted dips (60lb) 5-5-4
Superset of TRX piles and one arm shoulder press off a hinged barbell (40lb)
8-8-8, 6-5-5
12 Feb -- moonboarding
-gymnastics warmup
(team wall)
-30 min boulder ladders
-20 min hard bouldering
-40 min moonboarding
Notes: no moonboard sends. Worked on "wuthering heights", "bitter" and "an easy problem"
15 Feb -- Limit bouldering
(rec center wall)
-20 min ARC
-30 min boulder ladders
-30 min hard bouldering
-30 min limit bouldering
+
some negatives of heavy KB's (35-65 lbs) as well as pullups lowering (for elbow pain maintenance)
BEGIN POWER ENDURANCE PHASE
19 Feb - boulder circuits
-50 min gymnastics warmup***
-20 min boulder ladders
-20 min hardish bouldering
-6 rounds 2:4 duty cycle
1st round was nearly successful, I used the teams wall A17, B35, B26, B22. Tries that again but didn't come close for round 2 and 3, then I dropped it down and did, A17,B22,A10,A19. Did the 5th round nearly successful, but couldn't really finish the 6th. It was rough because of the fall
**fell on my neck trying a split leg gainer. Heard and felt a nice big crack down my neck and spine. Feels like a pony jed nerve in the middle of my back
Took weekend off to visit Mikayay, also was probably a good idea to rest neck
26 Feb - boulder circuits
-30 min gymnastic warmup
-20 min boulder ladders
-20 min hard bouldering
-6 rounds 2:4 duty cycle
did the A17,B22,A10,A19 circuit. Never actually completed it perfectly either round. But on the 2nd I did do them all during the time limit, even though falling was certainly included
Notes: Neck is feeling better. I lucked out with the fall, no permanent damage
Thursday, January 3, 2019
Jan 2019
2 Jan -- outdoor climbing
Went to New Jack City.
Successful climbs just 9 and 10a.
Fell on 11b, 11a, 10d and slipped the beginning of 11d (rainbow drive). Not super successful, very cold
Notes: improvement on rainbow drive from before (only top roped in past). And the 11b ("this nazi shit wont do") wasnt taxing, I just didn't have gloves for jamming the crack, so tearing the back of the hands from the first fall really put a damper on the attempt.
Begin 10-week Training Season 2!
BASE FITNESS PHASE
7 Jan
2 x 20in ARCing
(1st set, focused on downclimbing and jibs/features, 2nd: downclimbing and "stutter step" [2-3 foot movements for each hand movement])
9 jan
2 x 25 ARCing
(Downclimbing and heelhook/high step rockover practice. For the latter, I rainbowed. It was a nice change, seemingly new routes and forced opportunities for technique)
11 jan
7 Moderates
10a,10b,10c,10d*,10c,10d,11a
*1 fall
14 jan -- ARCing
2x30
Up and down climbing. Rainbowed to force techniques (heel hooks and a little laybacking)
15 jan -- tumbling and conditioning
forced to do one of those long, deadly ab burning exercises (ugh). Along with generic tumbling. All of these days consist of 10 leg lifts, 10 dips, 10 pushups, a legless rope climb and some attempts at one-arm pullups.
16 jan -- ARCing
2x30
Up and down climbing. Ranbowed to force techniques (high step, rockovers), straight arms
Notes: So sore (only feel while climbing)
18 Jan -- Moderates
8 moderates
10a*,10b,10b*,10c,10c,10d+,10d,10d**
*silly fall/slip
**legit fall, being tired (I successfully climbed this one last time though, wierd)
19 Jan -- Moderates
6 moderates
10b,10c, 10c, 10d+, 10d*, 10d*, dihedral stem
*fall on ith about half way. The stemming was to counter my failures/cool down
+
Partner workout with Mikayla:
-20 then 18 junking Jack's
(while she does 10 then 9 squats)
-jog (length of soccer field)
-16,14 (8,7)
-jog
... etc
(Full sprint on last go)
Then switch roles
Then same thing but with 20,18 pushups (20,18 jumping split squats)
+
Some ab stuff
STRENGTH PHASE
20 Jan HB #1
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-12.5) ---------------:: better :]
3 ----------------- 6S (-30 + jug) --------:: :]
4 ----------------- 4 3 3 2 2 2 (-30+jug) ---:: worse
5 ----------------- 5S 9 (-30+jug) ---------:: Better :]
6 ----------------- 5S 8 (-15) ---------------:: better :]
7 ----------------- 1S 8 5 5 4 3(-30 + jug) --:: worse
8 ----------------- 5S 8 (-20) -----------:: better
9 ----------------- 5S 9 (-30+jug) --------- :: better!
+
Supplementary strength
3 supersets
- 8 slow weighted pullups (+15)
- 6 front to side then back raises (7.5)
- 10 seated leg raises
4 min break
Notes: Wow! So much improvement!!!! (Except that pichai strength, haha, shitty) This training program is the bomb!
(Managed to borrow 2 8lb dumbells, so now I don't have to use the water jug for extra weight)
23 Jan -- HB#2
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-12.5) ---------------::
3 ----------------- 6S (-38) --------::
4 ----------------- 5 5 5 3 2 2 (-46) -----:: mild improvement
5 ----------------- 6S (-38)---------:: perfect :]
6 ----------------- 5S 9 (-15) ----:: slightly better :]
7 ----------------- 3S 9 5 5 (-46)--:: better
8 ----------------- 4S 7 7 (-20) ----:: slightly worse
9 ----------------- ???? (-38) --------- :: oops! Forgot to record. I don't remember what happened :o
Notes: nice to have actual weights. Need more for the pinches
26 Jan --HB#3
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-10) ---------------:: Added weight, still successful, just barely
3 ----------------- 6S (-38) --------::
4 ----------------- 2S 4 5 4 3 (-46 + jug) -----:: Need more counterweight!
5 ----------------- 6S (-38)---------::
6 ----------------- 5S 8 (-15) ----:: slightly worse
7 ----------------- 4S 7 3 (-46)--:: better
8 ----------------- 3S 2 5 3 (-20) ----:: worse
9 ----------------- 4S 7 6 (-38) --------- ::
Notes: Went to climbing comp afterwards, did 3 problems relatively quickly
3 sets of:
-Lockoffs (on moon board-- hard! 3 ea)
-10 leg lifts
29 Jan --HB#4
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-10) ---------------:: again, just barely
3 ----------------- 6S (-35.5) --------:: Added weight, just barely made it
4 ----------------- 2S 6 3 2 2 (-46 + jug) -----:: slight improvement
5 ----------------- 6S (-38)---------::
6 ----------------- 4S 9 5 (-15) ----:: slightly worse
7 ----------------- 4S 5 3 (-46)--:: slightly worse
8 ----------------- 3S 8 5 5 (-20) ----:: slightly better
9 ----------------- 5S 5 (-38) --------- :: better
Notes: been adding 2.5 lbs to one hang at a time in order to spur progression. Good choices, a lot of hangs I feel like are right at my limit
Went to New Jack City.
Successful climbs just 9 and 10a.
Fell on 11b, 11a, 10d and slipped the beginning of 11d (rainbow drive). Not super successful, very cold
Notes: improvement on rainbow drive from before (only top roped in past). And the 11b ("this nazi shit wont do") wasnt taxing, I just didn't have gloves for jamming the crack, so tearing the back of the hands from the first fall really put a damper on the attempt.
Begin 10-week Training Season 2!
BASE FITNESS PHASE
7 Jan
2 x 20in ARCing
(1st set, focused on downclimbing and jibs/features, 2nd: downclimbing and "stutter step" [2-3 foot movements for each hand movement])
9 jan
2 x 25 ARCing
(Downclimbing and heelhook/high step rockover practice. For the latter, I rainbowed. It was a nice change, seemingly new routes and forced opportunities for technique)
11 jan
7 Moderates
10a,10b,10c,10d*,10c,10d,11a
*1 fall
14 jan -- ARCing
2x30
Up and down climbing. Rainbowed to force techniques (heel hooks and a little laybacking)
15 jan -- tumbling and conditioning
forced to do one of those long, deadly ab burning exercises (ugh). Along with generic tumbling. All of these days consist of 10 leg lifts, 10 dips, 10 pushups, a legless rope climb and some attempts at one-arm pullups.
16 jan -- ARCing
2x30
Up and down climbing. Ranbowed to force techniques (high step, rockovers), straight arms
Notes: So sore (only feel while climbing)
18 Jan -- Moderates
8 moderates
10a*,10b,10b*,10c,10c,10d+,10d,10d**
*silly fall/slip
**legit fall, being tired (I successfully climbed this one last time though, wierd)
19 Jan -- Moderates
6 moderates
10b,10c, 10c, 10d+, 10d*, 10d*, dihedral stem
*fall on ith about half way. The stemming was to counter my failures/cool down
+
Partner workout with Mikayla:
-20 then 18 junking Jack's
(while she does 10 then 9 squats)
-jog (length of soccer field)
-16,14 (8,7)
-jog
... etc
(Full sprint on last go)
Then switch roles
Then same thing but with 20,18 pushups (20,18 jumping split squats)
+
Some ab stuff
STRENGTH PHASE
20 Jan HB #1
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-12.5) ---------------:: better :]
3 ----------------- 6S (-30 + jug) --------:: :]
4 ----------------- 4 3 3 2 2 2 (-30+jug) ---:: worse
5 ----------------- 5S 9 (-30+jug) ---------:: Better :]
6 ----------------- 5S 8 (-15) ---------------:: better :]
7 ----------------- 1S 8 5 5 4 3(-30 + jug) --:: worse
8 ----------------- 5S 8 (-20) -----------:: better
9 ----------------- 5S 9 (-30+jug) --------- :: better!
+
Supplementary strength
3 supersets
- 8 slow weighted pullups (+15)
- 6 front to side then back raises (7.5)
- 10 seated leg raises
4 min break
Notes: Wow! So much improvement!!!! (Except that pichai strength, haha, shitty) This training program is the bomb!
(Managed to borrow 2 8lb dumbells, so now I don't have to use the water jug for extra weight)
23 Jan -- HB#2
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-12.5) ---------------::
3 ----------------- 6S (-38) --------::
4 ----------------- 5 5 5 3 2 2 (-46) -----:: mild improvement
5 ----------------- 6S (-38)---------:: perfect :]
6 ----------------- 5S 9 (-15) ----:: slightly better :]
7 ----------------- 3S 9 5 5 (-46)--:: better
8 ----------------- 4S 7 7 (-20) ----:: slightly worse
9 ----------------- ???? (-38) --------- :: oops! Forgot to record. I don't remember what happened :o
Notes: nice to have actual weights. Need more for the pinches
26 Jan --HB#3
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-10) ---------------:: Added weight, still successful, just barely
3 ----------------- 6S (-38) --------::
4 ----------------- 2S 4 5 4 3 (-46 + jug) -----:: Need more counterweight!
5 ----------------- 6S (-38)---------::
6 ----------------- 5S 8 (-15) ----:: slightly worse
7 ----------------- 4S 7 3 (-46)--:: better
8 ----------------- 3S 2 5 3 (-20) ----:: worse
9 ----------------- 4S 7 6 (-38) --------- ::
Notes: Went to climbing comp afterwards, did 3 problems relatively quickly
3 sets of:
-Lockoffs (on moon board-- hard! 3 ea)
-10 leg lifts
29 Jan --HB#4
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-10) ---------------:: again, just barely
3 ----------------- 6S (-35.5) --------:: Added weight, just barely made it
4 ----------------- 2S 6 3 2 2 (-46 + jug) -----:: slight improvement
5 ----------------- 6S (-38)---------::
6 ----------------- 4S 9 5 (-15) ----:: slightly worse
7 ----------------- 4S 5 3 (-46)--:: slightly worse
8 ----------------- 3S 8 5 5 (-20) ----:: slightly better
9 ----------------- 5S 5 (-38) --------- :: better
Notes: been adding 2.5 lbs to one hang at a time in order to spur progression. Good choices, a lot of hangs I feel like are right at my limit
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