Wednesday, January 1, 2020

Jan 2020

1 Jan - Outdoor Climbing

Went to new jack (it's becoming a tradition: 2017, 2019 and now 2020)

Worked 3 hard routes:
Hole in one - 1 hang at crux - 10d/11a (downgraded on MP)
This Nazi shit won't do - 11b - RP 2nd go :]
Rainbow drive - 11c/d - got past crux 1st two bolts, proceeded to mess it up

Notes: very very good progress this cycle




3 Jan - RP/OS attempts (indoors)

-block of 5 w/u (10b, 10c, 10d, 11a, 10d) (pumpy by the end)
-Tried the 11d project 3 times - got to the 6th, 5th, 5th clips respectively
- cooldown (10b, 10b) - kinda pumpy (no rest between 3rd attempt and these)

Notes: Morgan got his 12c proj! Then proceeded to nearly get a 12b (1 hang) and 12a (lower halfway through due to likely extreme fatigue)




7 Jan - RP/OS attempts (indoors)
-block of 5 w/u (10b, 10c, 10d, 11a, 10d)
- 2 attempts on the 11d project; !!!!!!I GOT IT!!!!!
- First time, I made the final clip, but fell going for this side pull, got it 2nd go
- cooldown (10a, 10c)

Notes: I did the same 5 w/u climbs, I was noticeable less fatigued by the end of it so I knew I had a deeper recovery. I went to see CC and Michael afterwards to talk about Mikayla, it was a decent "therapy session" there was a lot to discuss that I wasn't quite getting from my own thoughts




12 Jan - outdoor climbing
Climbed in apple valley with Ryan Murphy
Did 11 climbs. Noteable ones:
- two 11's (11a OS, 11a/b RP 3rd go)
- 10+ OS



REST PHASE



TRAINING CYCLE 2
By popular request from morgan, we're making adjustments to this cycle to include 2 fewer weeks of ARCing, those will be picked up as an extra week of hanboarding and an extra week of power

25 Jan - Outdoor moderates
Apple Valley with Alec, Evan and Chino (David?)
6 pitches: 5.8 to 10d (all onsight). Tried an 11d aid route on TR. Apparently it has never been freed


26 Jan - Outdoor moderates
Apple Valley again with Morgan and Ryan
9 pitches: 5.7 to 10b/c. Fell on one of the 10s so it's logged as a hang on MP


28 Jan ARC
2 x 30