Dec 2020

Some catch up. I moved to Joshua Tree in November and have been climbing a lot. I have almost as many routes this year as lasat year (during my trip). After I dropped off from the "extended hangboard session" in  April. Morgan and I continued to do outdoor climbs in Apple Valley every 2-3 weeks. I got a baby soft 11c after a few tries there. More recently multiple 11s

Here's my sport pyramid:

I can start adding some more 11b's and should probably backfill some 10ds. Excited to get back into training. I'm not sure if I will follow RCTM precisely. We will see. I've just ordered logical progression. I've wanted to do a mix of the two programs, doing focused blocks, but keeping other skills on the "backburner"

2 Dec - Hangboard # 1

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-25)  
3 ----------------- 6S (-37.5) 
4 ----------------- 6S (-57.5)
5 ----------------- 6S (-42.5)  -- close to failure
6 ----------------- 6S (-32.5)  
7 ----------------- 6S (-52.5)  -- closeto failure
8 ----------------- 5S-8 (-30) 
9 ----------------- 2S-9-5-6-7 (-37.5) 

5 Dec - Hangboard # 2

jtree: TR soloing (10C slab) and a V0 boulder slab + easy crack solo
+

6hr break

+
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-22.5)  -- hard, don't progress
3 ----------------- 6S (-35)     -- hard
4 ----------------- 5S-5 (-55)
5 ----------------- 5S-4 (-40) 
6 ----------------- 4S-8-5 (-30)  
7 ----------------- 3S-9-6-6 (-50)  
8 ----------------- 3S-7-7-5 (-30) 
9 ----------------- 3S-4-6-5 (-37.5)

 +

supplemental exercises

3 sets

-15 second L-sit ----- not great technique

-5 HSPU -------------- 5-5-4

-5+5 pistol squats ------- 10 lb weight

NEXT TIME: up the pistol weight to 20, keep everything else the same - get better technique

NOTES: poor performance on hangboard, maybe it was the light climbing outside. I will try this set again next time

8 Dec - Hangboard # 3

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-22.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-35)
4 ----------------- 6S (-55)
5 ----------------- 6S (-40)  -- hard, don't progress
6 ----------------- 6S (-30)  
7 ----------------- 5S-8 (-50)  
8 ----------------- 5S-6 (-30) 
9 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-37.5)

 +

supplemental exercises

3 sets

-15 second L-sit ----- not great technique

-5 HSPU -------------- 5-5-5

-5+5 pistol squats ------- 20 lb weight

NEXT TIME: up the pistol weight to 25, keep everything else the same - get better technique

NOTES: Much better with hangboard today!

11 Dec - Hangboard # 4

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-20)
3 ----------------- 6S (-32.5) -- keep
4 ----------------- 6S (-52.5)
5 ----------------- 6S (-40)  -- hard, don't progress
6 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)  
7 ----------------- 5S-6 (-50)  
8 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-30) 
9 ----------------- 4S-7-6 (-37.5)

 +

supplemental exercises

3 sets

-15 second L-sit ----- Better technique

-5 HSPU -------------- 5-5-5

-5+5 pistol squats ------- 25 lb weight

NOTES: Hangboard ok. L-sit technique slightly better. HSPU felt easy

23 Dec - Hangboard # 5

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-20)
3 ----------------- 6S (-32.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-52.5) -- hard
5 ----------------- 6S (-40) 
6 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)  
7 ----------------- 5S-8 (-50)  
8 ----------------- 3S-8-5-6 (-30) 
9 ----------------- 5S-7 (-37.5)

 +

supplemental exercises

3 sets

-15 second L-sit ----- Better technique

-5 HSPU -------------- 5-5-5

-5+5 pistol squats ------- 25 lb weight

27 Dec - Bouldering
While I've been bouldering/climbing outside more than suggested (one only needs to look at my Mountain Project), Today and yesterday I've been trying hard stuff. Yesterday I got a baby soft V3, probbaly not going to happen again in a while. Today I did two V1s (much more consistent with J-tree grading). I'd like ot build a nice pyramids getting some V1s and V2s. It's sickening that I have a hundred V0s ~ 20 V1s and 2 V2s and 2 V3s. I would like these V1s and 2s to be overhanding, with edges or pinches or something rather than just a technical slab. Today the two V1s definitely were of that nature. They were on the Pixie Boulder in Indian Cove campground. Ended early though because climbing the past 3 days I feel it in my elbows. Gonna need to do more therapy:
-3 x 5 slow eccentric lowers (50lb)
- 3 x 30 finger expansions (slow

Jun 2020

2 Jun - HB #21

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-15)   5
3 ----------------- 6S (-25)  5
4 ----------------- 6S (-50) 22.5 <-- 5="" accidental="" drop="" for="" lb="" morgan="" p="">5 ----------------- 4S-7-7(-32.5) 22.5 - tough!
6 ----------------- 6S (-22.5) 0
7 ----------------- 6S (-45) 20 <-- drop="" for="" intentional="" morgan="" p="">8 ----------------- 3S-8-8-4 (-27.5) 0 <-- drop="" for="" intentional="" morgan="" p="">9 ----------------- 4S-7-7 (-30) 20


NOTES: Due to 2 week period of not hanging and my performance from the last... 7 or so hangs, I decided to add 5 lbs back across the board

May 2020

1 May - HB #18 (Morgan only)

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 5S-8 (-10)   5
3 ----------------- 3S-quit (-10)  7.5  (swapped weights did this first, do 20 instead)
4 ----------------- (-45) 30
5 ----------------- (-27.5) 25
6 ----------------- (-17.5) 0
7 ----------------- (-40) 25
8 ----------------- (-22.5) 10
9 ----------------- (-25) 22.5

Notes: I fell on the first two and decided to give in, I'm plateau'd and overworked. Morgan is still going strong







7 May - HB #19

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-10)   5
3 ----------------- 6S (-20)  7.5
4 ----------------- 3S-8-6-4 (-45) 30 (fucking hot/slippery)
5 ----------------- 6S (-27.5) 25
6 ----------------- 5S-9 (-17.5) 0
7 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-40) 25
8 ----------------- 5S-6 (-22.5) 10
9 ----------------- 3S-6-5-7 (-25) 22.5





18 May - HB #20

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-10)   5
3 ----------------- 6S (-20)  5
4 ----------------- 3S-4-4-6 (-45) 27.5
5 ----------------- 6S (-27.5) 22.5 - tough!
6 ----------------- 5S-8 (-17.5) 0
7 ----------------- 5S-8 (-40) 22.5
8 ----------------- 3S-7-7-5 (-22.5) 5
9 ----------------- 3S-7-6-6 (-25) 20

Apr 2020

5 Apr- Outdoor climbing
Fairview Mountain with Morgan. Did 8 climbs, fell on 4 for some reason, tried an 11c, got to the 4th bolt (5 bolts plus chains) Juggy but overhanging, will get it next time


9 Apr - HB #13

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-10)
3 ----------------- 6S (-22.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-47.5) 35  -- extremely hard
5 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-17.5)
7 ----------------- 6S (-40) 30

8 ----------------- 5S-7 (-22.5) 15

9 ----------------- 5S-8 (-25)




15 Apr - HB #14


1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-10)
3 ----------------- 6S (-22.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-47.5) 35
5 ----------------- 5S-9 (-27.5)
6 ----------------- 4S-9-5 (-17.5)
7 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-40) 30
8 ----------------- 3S-5-5-5 (-22.5) 15
9 ----------------- 4S-8-8 (-25)

NOTES: I kind of felt from the beginning this was gonna be a bad session




21 Apr - HB# 15


1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-10)
3 ----------------- 6S (-22.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-47.5) 35
5 ----------------- 5S-9 (-27.5)
6 ----------------- 4S-9-7 (-17.5)
7 ----------------- 5S-8 (-40) 30
8 ----------------- 3S-6-7-5 (-22.5) 15
9 ----------------- 3S-7-7-7 (-25)






24 Apr - HB #16


1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-10)   7.6
3 ----------------- 6S (-22.5)  20
4 ----------------- 6S (-47.5) 32.5 -- easier than expected
5 ----------------- 6S (-27.5) 25 -- tough, don't advance for safety
6 ----------------- 6S (-17.5) 15
7 ----------------- 6S (-40) 27.5
8 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-22.5) 12.5
9 ----------------- 4S-8-6 (-25) 22.5


NOTES: Improvement, but still not as successful as HB 13





28 Apr - HB #17

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-10)   7.5
3 ----------------- 6S (-10)  7.5  (swapped weights did this first, do 20 instead)
4 ----------------- 3S-7-5-5 (-45) 30
5 ----------------- 5S-9 (-27.5) 25
6 ----------------- 4S-8-8 (-17.5) 0
7 ----------------- 4S-7-6 (-40) 25
8 ----------------- 3S-7-5-5 (-22.5) 10
9 ----------------- 4S-5-6 (-25) 22.5

NOTES: Maybe mixing the IMR and medium edge messed me up

Mar 2020

1 Mar - Outdoor Bouldering

Climbed for 4 hours at a new location, Mt Rubidoux. Only did up to V1+ but it was tough. Images from Mountain project suggest these have been downgraded from the guidebook entries. Some of these V1s were more like V3s. Also did an 11a slab on TR and solo'd a 5.4 crack



4 Mar - HB #9

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-15)
3 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-52.5) 42.5 (or reduce further for Morgan)  --- keep next time
5 ----------------- 6S (-32.5) 37.5 for Morgan accidentally)
6 ----------------- 6S (-22.5) -barely held it at the end
7 ----------------- 6S (-45) 37.5 (or more for Morgan)
8 ----------------- 6S (-27.5) 22.5
9 ----------------- 6S (-30)
+
Supplemental exercise
Tabata pushups 15-15-15-15-10-10-10-8
98 total





5 Mar - easy recovery climbing

9 climbs in 4 blocks
(best guess, don't remember exactly)
-10c, 10d, 11b
-10d, 11a
-11b, 11b
-11b, 11a


POWER PHASE


7 Mar - Moon board
ARC w/u - 10 min
Boulder ladders - 30 min (V0-V2 x3, V3 x3, V4)
Hard bouldering - 10 min (tried a V5, no go)
+
moon board: 35 min on one problem, got it at the end
NOTES: A little sick. Head hurts, lots of coughing




9 Mar - Limit Bouldering
ARC w/u - 20m
Boulder ladders - 25 min (V0-V3 x2, V4 x3)
Hard bouldering - 30 min(tried 2 V5s and a V6, only one success on V5)
Limit Bouldering - 30 min - Tried a V7 and V8, no luck
+
supplemental exercises
3 sets of:
6 one-arm dumbell press (40lb)
5 one-arm barbell rows
IYT's 3 each  (8 lbs)





EXTENDED STRENGTH PHASE:

Due to COVID19 breakout, we are limiting heading out, including to the climbing gym. As a result we will do extended strength through hanbgoarding and will resume the power phase after




14 Mar - HB #10

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-15)
3 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-52.5) 42.5  -- hard but can potentially still drop :/
5 ----------------- 6S (-32.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-22.5) - can drop
7 ----------------- 6S (-45) 37.5 -- can drop

8 ----------------- 6S (-27.5) 22.5

9 ----------------- 6S (-30)

18 Mar - HB #11

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-12.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-25)
4 ----------------- 6S (-50) 37.5 -- extremely hard
5 ----------------- 6S (-30)
6 ----------------- 6S (-20)
7 ----------------- 6S (-42.5) 32.5 -- very hard

8 ----------------- 4S-9-7 (-25) 17.5

9 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)

NOTES: Morgan is a freak again and dropped 5 lbs on his pinches and slopers




21 Mar - Outdoor climbing

Really needed to get outside, bring in all day from the quarantine is starting to remind me of my Navy days stuck on a ship for months. We climbed in apple Valley. Didn't get too many impressive climbs. Got an 11a RP 2nd go and 10c





25 Mar - HB #12

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-12.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-25)
4 ----------------- 6S (-50) 37.5  -- still extremely hard
5 ----------------- 5S-9 (-30)
6 ----------------- 6S (-20) -- nearly failed
7 ----------------- 5S-7 (-42.5) 32.5

8 ----------------- 3S-9-7-6 (-25) 17.5

9 ----------------- 4S-7-8 (-27.5)

NOTES: Sucked today. Didn't change the weights but got worse :/




30 Mar - HB #12

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-12.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-25)
4 ----------------- 6S (-50) 37.5  -- still extremely hard
5 ----------------- 6S (-30)
6 ----------------- 6S (-20) -- nearly failed
7 ----------------- 6S (-42.5) 32.5

8 ----------------- 6S (-25) 17.5

9 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)

NOTES: perfect set!

Feb 2020

1 Feb - 10 moderates
block of 3 for warmup (10a or 10b)
then 4 blocks:
11a 11b 10d
11b 11a* 10d  * failed because it's actually like 11c!
11b 10d
11a 10d




2 Feb - 8 moderates
block of 2 for warmup (10a 10b?)
then 4 blocks of 2:
11a, 10d
11a* 10d * this is the one I failed last time... still really hard
11b** 10d ** hang at top because I was too pumped and that's not the point of ARCing
11b, 10c





4 Feb - ARC
3 x 30




5 Feb - ARC
3 x 25
Notes: started taking vitamin-C enriched collagen before any climbing -  preventative maintenance for tendon repair


7 Feb - ARC
2 x 30


STRENGTH PHASE

8 Feb - indoor climbing + outdoor climbing + Hangboarding (rare 3 a day workout)
- Started at Hangar 18, doing V5s and V6s (With Alec on date #1)
- Moved overt o Corona del mar. Was working on a V3, no go. Alec had an encounter with a sting ray
- Hangboard #1
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-30)
3 ----------------- 6S (-42.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-57.5)
5 ----------------- 6S (-47.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-37.5)
7 ----------------- 5S-6 (-52.5)
8 ----------------- 3S-9-6-8 (-32.5)
9 ----------------- 5S-6 (-42.5)



9 Feb -moderates (recovery)
- warmup 2 blocks of 2: 10b, 10c  -  10d, 11a (soft)
- 4 moderates (in two blocks of 2)
11c, 11b
11b, 11d (TR dihedral)
+
Supplemental exercises
3 sets of:
- 5 one arm ring rows (5 ea)

- 2 1 arm pushups off medicine ball (2 ea)

- one leg tucked in front levers (~10 s)



11 Feb - Hanboard # 2
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-30)
3 ----------------- 6S (-42.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-57.5) --- really freaking hard
5 ----------------- 6S (-47.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-37.5)
7 ----------------- 5S-9 (-52.5)
8 ----------------- 6S (-32.5)
9 ----------------- 6S (-42.5)





14 Feb - Hanboard # 3
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-40) - very close to failing
4 ----------------- 6S (-57.5) --- really freaking hard
5 ----------------- 6S (-45)
6 ----------------- 6S (-35) - getting hard
7 ----------------- 6S (-52.5)
8 ----------------- 5S-7 (-30)
9 ----------------- 6S (-40)
+
supplemental exercises
3 sets of:
- 8 one arm vertical rows (40 lbs)
- 5 hspu



18 Feb - Hanboard # 4
30 min ARC
+ (a few hours later)
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-25)
3 ----------------- 6S (-37.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-57.5) --- ready to do 55 next ime
5 ----------------- 6S (-42.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-32.5) ---really hard at the end
7 ----------------- 6S (-52.5) --- really hard at end
8 ----------------- 3S-7-7-7 (-30) --- worse, and I don't know why
9 ----------------- 3S-9-5-8 (-37.5) --- worse again

Maybe the ARC session messed me up, It was tough from set 6 onward




21 Feb - Hanboard # 5

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-25)   -- easy, drop next time
3 ----------------- 6S (-37.5) -- easy, drop next time
4 ----------------- 6S (-57.5) --- ready to do 55 next ime? (harder than last)
5 ----------------- 6S (-42.5) -- can probably drop
6 ----------------- 6S (-32.5)  -- can probably drop (right wrist hurt a little at end)
7 ----------------- 6S (-52.5) --- close at end to falling
8 ----------------- 6S (-30) --- even closer at end to falling
9 ----------------- 6S (-37.5) --- close at end
+
Tabata Pushups
15-15-15-15-10-10-10-8 = 98

NOTES: Right wrist hurting a bit, mostly just during rnd 6. Morgan back, he did my weights plus 5 except for pinches (so like what his hb 2 should have been)





24 Feb - HB #6
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-22.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-35)
4 ----------------- 6S (-55) -- really freaking hard
5 ----------------- 6S (-40)
6 ----------------- 6S (-30)
7 ----------------- 6S (-50)
8 ----------------- 4S-8-7(-27.5)
9 ----------------- 5S-7 (-35) - questionable, I may have toe touched the last .25s of rnd 5

NOTES: Morgan +5 on all but pinches



27 Feb - HB #7
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-20) 25
3 ----------------- 6S (-32.5) 37.5
4 ----------------- 6S (-55) 52.5 -- maybe decrement
5 ----------------- 6S (-37.5)  42.5
6 ----------------- 6S (-27.5) 32.5
7 ----------------- 6S (-50) 47.5 -- maybe decrement
8 ----------------- 5S-8 (-27.5) 30
9 ----------------- 6S (-35) 37.5
+
supplementary exercises
3 sets of:
- 5 shoulder presses (35 lbs from slink and plate weights, so awkward)
-10 hanging leg raises
- 2 pullups lowers (try to put most weight on one hand)

NOTES: Morgan's BW-25-37.5-52.5-42.5-32.5-47.5-30-37.5



29 Feb - HB #8

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-17.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-30)
4 ----------------- 4S-5-5 (-52.5) 50 -oopsie x3  --- keep next time
5 ----------------- 6S (-35)
6 ----------------- 6S (-25) -barely held it at the end
*7 ----------------- 6S (-47.5) 45
8 ----------------- 4S-6-3 (-27.5)
9 ----------------- 5S-8 (-32.5)

NOTES: Morgan decided to drop 7.5 lbs and match me (except the pinches since he's already ahead. He felt even they were easy [insanely strong!])

Jan 2020

1 Jan - Outdoor Climbing

Went to new jack (it's becoming a tradition: 2017, 2019 and now 2020)

Worked 3 hard routes:
Hole in one - 1 hang at crux - 10d/11a (downgraded on MP)
This Nazi shit won't do - 11b - RP 2nd go :]
Rainbow drive - 11c/d - got past crux 1st two bolts, proceeded to mess it up

Notes: very very good progress this cycle




3 Jan - RP/OS attempts (indoors)

-block of 5 w/u (10b, 10c, 10d, 11a, 10d) (pumpy by the end)
-Tried the 11d project 3 times - got to the 6th, 5th, 5th clips respectively
- cooldown (10b, 10b) - kinda pumpy (no rest between 3rd attempt and these)

Notes: Morgan got his 12c proj! Then proceeded to nearly get a 12b (1 hang) and 12a (lower halfway through due to likely extreme fatigue)




7 Jan - RP/OS attempts (indoors)
-block of 5 w/u (10b, 10c, 10d, 11a, 10d)
- 2 attempts on the 11d project; !!!!!!I GOT IT!!!!!
- First time, I made the final clip, but fell going for this side pull, got it 2nd go
- cooldown (10a, 10c)

Notes: I did the same 5 w/u climbs, I was noticeable less fatigued by the end of it so I knew I had a deeper recovery. I went to see CC and Michael afterwards to talk about Mikayla, it was a decent "therapy session" there was a lot to discuss that I wasn't quite getting from my own thoughts




12 Jan - outdoor climbing
Climbed in apple valley with Ryan Murphy
Did 11 climbs. Noteable ones:
- two 11's (11a OS, 11a/b RP 3rd go)
- 10+ OS



REST PHASE



TRAINING CYCLE 2
By popular request from morgan, we're making adjustments to this cycle to include 2 fewer weeks of ARCing, those will be picked up as an extra week of hanboarding and an extra week of power

25 Jan - Outdoor moderates
Apple Valley with Alec, Evan and Chino (David?)
6 pitches: 5.8 to 10d (all onsight). Tried an 11d aid route on TR. Apparently it has never been freed


26 Jan - Outdoor moderates
Apple Valley again with Morgan and Ryan
9 pitches: 5.7 to 10b/c. Fell on one of the 10s so it's logged as a hang on MP


28 Jan ARC
2 x 30