December 2021

1 Dec -- Hangboard Repeaters #12

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-15)
3 ----------------- 6S (-22.5)
4 ----------------- 5S-8 (-47.5)
5 ----------------- 3S-8-6-6 (-37.5) 
6 ----------------- 6S (-20)
7 ----------------- 4S-6-6 (-45)  
8 ----------------- 4S-8-6 (-27.5) 
9 ----------------- 3S-9-4-6 (-30)

4-5 Dec

V3 - The orbiter  (I used to do before gunsmoke for my power endurance)

V2 - sitdown flake (V2) (a one move wonder, I tried a few times unsuccessfullyduring the summer)

        (I also did a bathang variation)

V4 - little chucky (soft) V4, flash

8 Dec -- Hangboard Repeaters #13

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-12.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-20)
4 ----------------- 6S (-47.5)
5 ----------------- 3S-9-6-5 (-37.5) 
6 ----------------- 4S-7-8 (-17.5)
7 ----------------- 5S-5 (-45)  
8 ----------------- 4S-7-6 (-27.5) 
9 ----------------- 3S-7-5-7 (-30)

11-12 Dec

Not much climbing on Saturday, I visited Morgan and Erica's so I just did a half hour attempt on this V2 in indian cove which always gets me, then otherwise did some easy (5.3-5.6) soloing. Sunday I got a V5 second go, but I don't feel it was a "real" V5. But I guess ... new grade? Then I did the usual attempts on gunsmoke. Average attempts

15 Dec -- Hangboard Repeaters #14

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-17.5) (oops, misread and added too much counterweight)
3 ----------------- 6S (-20)
4 ----------------- 5S-5 (-45)
5 ----------------- 5S-9 (-37.5) 
6 ----------------- 5S-8 (-17.5)
7 ----------------- 4S-9-5 (-42.5)  
8 ----------------- 4S-6-6 (-27.5) 
9 ----------------- 4S-6-8 (-30)

NOTES: I was dissappointed that my last few hang sessions I was getting worse, I think part of this was it was getting too cold (30-37 at night/early in the morning). So today I waited until noon (when it was 48F) and I did better

18 Dec - Outdoor bouldering.

Fantastic day! Two V3's, two V1's, and a classic had V0 offwidth. One of the 3s and one of the 1s were very difficult when I tried them each months ago. (Each of the others were a bit soft)

19 Dec - outdoor power endurance

No sends, tried a V4 and V2 then worked gunsmoke. Had a descent first attempt. I fell at the crux but felt like if I made it, I ould have powered through the enduro section to the corner.

22 Dec -- Hangboard Repeaters #15

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-12.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-17.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-45) -- solid, ready to increase
5 ----------------- 6S (-35) 
6 ----------------- 6S (-15)
7 ----------------- 5S-8 (-42.5)  
8 ----------------- 5S-7 (-27.5) 
9 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-30) -- felt like I gave up too early

NOTES: Did this around 11:30 57F (colder than that inside though). Happy to be on the up. There's benefit in pushing the counterweight before a "perfect 6" is done

November 2021

Bit of a backlog. 

3 Nov -- Hangboard Repeaters #8

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 5S-6 (-17.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-25)
4 ----------------- 6S (-47.5)
5 ----------------- 4S-4-6 (-37.5) 
6 ----------------- 6S (-22.5)
7 ----------------- 4S-7-4 (-45)  
8 ----------------- 4S-7-6 (-27.5) 
9 ----------------- 3S-5-5-5 (-30)

Nov 6-7

Was invited to climb in the horse flats. Did a very soft V1 2 and 3. The following day my finger skin hurt so I did some light sport with Morgan, nearly peeling off a 5.6, not getting a 5.7 then trying an 11a with just one crux right at the top which I couldn't get.

10 Nov -- Hangboard Repeaters #9

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-17.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-25)
4 ----------------- 6S (-47.5)
5 ----------------- 5S-9 (-37.5) 
6 ----------------- 6S (-22.5)
7 ----------------- 3S-9-5-5 (-45)  
8 ----------------- 4S-8-6 (-27.5) 
9 ----------------- 3S-9-6-5 (-30)

Nov 13-14

4 ~V1's(one of which was rather intense) in J-tree. Nothing really on the 14th, tried an old 1 and 2 project. Then tried gunsmoke. It was basicallya repeat of last time. Fell off at the long reach but hopped back on because it wasn't a "pumped out" fall. Fell instead at the corner. 2nd attempt I passed through thte corner then came back. Both the 1st and 2nd attempts were about 3 minutes on the wall. The remaining not so good. All in all I just got a V0 that requires you to leap (didn't log it because the boulder isn't online and it's not really worth it)

17 Nov -- Hangboard Repeaters #10

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-17.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-22.5)
4 ----------------- 5S-6 (-47.5)
5 ----------------- 5S-6 (-37.5) 
6 ----------------- 3S-9-7-5 (-20)
7 ----------------- 2S-8-7-4-5 (-45)  
8 ----------------- 4S-5-5 (-27.5) 
9 ----------------- 4S-5-4 (-30)

20 Nov
Nothing of note, tried a V5 that feels possible, Ryans campground probably Ryan's boulder. Also did a few attempts on a V7 with a big group I encountered (Chilli sauce?)

21Nov

Two V1's. Hardish. Joker and 7 grain arete. I treid 7 grain months ago once in the summer heat. Went much better this time. Joker is kind of tall and committing. Both went on the 3rd go. Ended the day as usual on some Gunsmoke attempts. Since it's getting closer, after the first attempt, I gave it a long 10 minute rest then tried again. Both times falling at the crux. The next three attempts were working from just after the crux to the corner which I only got on the 3rd go  (afterabout a 4 minute rest)

24 Nov -- Hangboard Repeaters #11

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 5S-5 (-15) (weird unexpected slip)
3 ----------------- 6S (-22.5)
4 ----------------- 4S-9-5 (-47.5)
5 ----------------- 5S-6 (-37.5) 
6 ----------------- 5S-9 (-20)
7 ----------------- 3S-9-5-4 (-45)  
8 ----------------- 4S-7-6 (-27.5) 
9 ----------------- 4S-7-6 (-30)

25 Nov - sport climbing

Thanksgiving climbing with Morgan. Did a painful 5.7, onsighted what's apparently a one move 10+ (otherwise 5.8), and TR'd but not clean an 11a



28 Nov - bouldering

Did a V2 that had shut me down for a while out by the orbiter (V3) which I used to do power endurance laps on. Tried the orbiter twice and got quite close. I may try it some more to finally get that tick. As usual tried gunsmoke with less success.

Oct 2021

2 Oct - OUtdoor bouldering

Project complete! New Grade - Pigpen V4. So happy to have gotten this. Have been working it all summer. Happy about my self-spotting setup (sliding the pad from the rest hole out to the fall zone for the finishing crack)

3 Oct -- outdoor bouldering - power endurance

Got a kind of difficult V2 (trailblazer) after about 6 tries over 40 minutes. It was in the sun too which made the topout all the more sweeter.  (But then was subsequently shutdown by a V0). As great as getting pigpen yesterday was. I still have a lot to be humbled by. Finished the day on gunsmoke as usual. Did alright. Got very close to going right in 2 tries (still took 3, this time, but I fell early on the long reach, on 2nd go, I jumped from long reach and fell at the crux of course, but I immediately jumped back on and made it to the corner. Next weekend I may try to work the crux

6 Oct -- Hangboard Repeaters #5

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-15)
3 ----------------- 6S (-25)
4 ----------------- 6S (-45)
5 ----------------- 3S-5-4-4 (-32.5) 
6 ----------------- 3S-8-5-4 (-17.5)
7 ----------------- 2S-8-6-5-5 (-42.5)  
8 ----------------- 5S-5 (-25) 
9 ----------------- 4S-6-5 (-32.5)

Notes: Objectively I'm getting worse, so next time I will add more counter weight. Temperatures where even with me at 66 (though it certainly feels hotter inside my brick house oven

9-10 October: outdoor bouldering, power then power endurance

The haul for this weekend:
9: V2, V3*, V4* (*Most definitely not even close to the standard. I feel no pride in either send. I've suggested lower grades for both, around V1, on mountain project)
10: two V1's and two V2's. Both these V2s were something I had tried previously, first month or so here and didn't get. So nice to see them go down. One was the Chube!
Finished as usual on the gunsmoke traverse. I actually did faiirly well. I made it to the right in two goes (sorta. I fell at the long reach, but jumped back on immediately because I didn't fall from being pumped out. Then I made it to AND PAST the crux. My fall happened trying to get through the corner. On 2nd go, I went past the corner, to the end then came back to and fell at the corner again. For both I was on for about 2.5 minutes. The remaining ones were paltry in comparison. Past the corner fall on the edges just before the crux, a fall at the crux (jumping back on because I wasn't completely pumped then fell at the long reach. For the last go I just went to the start and moved right. Fell at the "mini-reach"

13 Oct -- Hangboard Repeaters #6

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-20)
3 ----------------- 6S (-30)
4 ----------------- 6S (-50)
5 ----------------- 5S-6 (-37.5) 
6 ----------------- 5S-6 (-22.5)
7 ----------------- 5S-9 (-47.5)  
8 ----------------- 5S-7 (-30) 
9 ----------------- 4S-6-6 (-30) -- mistake, should have been 32.5. done out of order

NOTE: dropped down to last time's HB #7. Much better with the 5 lb difference. No fan, just needed to chalk up for a few (wide pinch and sloper) 54F

16-17 Oct

Not much saturday. Did a V0+ highball (25 foot) fingercrack,  smears at the bottom and jugs at the top fortunately. Then later lead some sub 10 slabs. Sunday was sport with morgan, did a few sub 10s, then one 10b that was quitea proud line

20 Oct -- Hangboard Repeaters #7

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-20)
3 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-50)
5 ----------------- 5S-5 (-37.5) 
6 ----------------- 6S (-22.5)
7 ----------------- 6S (-47.5)  
8 ----------------- 5S-8 (-30) 
9 ----------------- 3S-7-8-6 (-30) -- mistake, should have been 32.5. done out of order

23- 24 - outdoor ropes:
23rd,climbed in echo cliffs, attempted an 11a (failed), otherwise 9 and lower

24th consolation 5.9 trad. Led all pitches. Climbed with Serge. Probably my worst climbing day. We were on the wall for about 7 hours. Because Serge was just very very slow. Pitch 3 alone took like an hour and a half. On the approach, one of my flip flops broke and my water fell out and smashed into pieces on a rock. During the climb, we were off route first unintentionally and my rope got stuck so I had to untie and downclimb to free it. Then later, we let a party behind us pass and took an alternative off-route way up. The original intention was to do consolation direct 10b, but I don't think Serge would have been able to follow. (Fun fact: placed a piece after the 3rd pitch crux but I guess I didn't clip it. It didn't feel strenuous though). We topped out with just about 30 minutes of daylight left. After running down to the approach trai, I had to head over to get the gear that was left at the start then I just ran down the approach trail in my climbing shoes. Had a headache back at the car and treid very hard to not puke. Was dropped off at my car and I didn't drive for fear of killing someone, so I just slept in my car. Missed some Chinese on this day, only one I think since the 3 months of starting.

No climbing the rest of the month or hangboarding because I went home to visit my dad in the hospital and pass out halloween candy

Sep 2021

1 Sep -- Max Hangs Hangboard #15

1 ----------------- 2S

2 ----------------- 2S (+20)

3 ----------------- 2S (+25)

4 ----------------- 2S (-25)  -- move on! 

5 ----------------- 6,4 (0 BW)  -- drop (-5?), I'm not making progress here

6 ----------------- 2S (+32.5)

7 ----------------- 2S (-22.5) -- move on!

8 ----------------- 6,6 (+27.5)

9 ----------------- 1S-7 (+17.5) -- keep

NOTES: no changes in weights because I missed last week. Pinches are feeling strong and are definitely ready to progress. Still getting strangly worse for MR and MRP. I forgot to put the fan on today, not sure if that affected anything. 77F but humid from some rain yesterday!!

Switching back to doing repeaters on the hangboard

8 Sep -- Hangboard Repeaters #1

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-7.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-17.5)
4 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-40)
5 ----------------- 2S-7-5-6-4 (-27.5)
6 ----------------- 3S-7-5-6 (-10)
7 ----------------- 4S-9-7 (-37.5)
8 ----------------- 3S-7-5-6 (-20) 
9 ----------------- 3S-7-6-6 (-27.5)

Bad first session. I tried my final numbers and weights from before thinking I could just jump back into it with the strength I got from doing max hangs -- nope. going to pull over the numbers from hangboard #10 last time (early-mid Feb)

11 Sep -- outdoor bouldering

Knocked out 5 or so soft V1s (tilt-o-meter and chuckwalla). Then I tried the pigpen twice. Both instances I was able to go from the start to the strenuous fall/catch before the rest. 2nd go I actually made itt o the rest, slid my pad out and tried finishing. I made it part way out to the ending crack. It's coming along nicely!

15 Sep -- Hangboard Repeaters #2

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-15)
3 ----------------- 6S (-25)
4 ----------------- 6S (-45)
5 ----------------- 3S-7-5-4 (-32.5) 
6 ----------------- 5S-7 (-17.5)
7 ----------------- 4S-9-6 (-42.5)  
8 ----------------- 4S-7-6 (-25) 
9 ----------------- 4S-6-6 (-32.5)

NOTES: better, but not quite there. I'm gonna try this set of weights again. Forgot to take temp, but it was a little cooler (high 70's)

18 Sep -- bouldering

Did a V2 (the boxer problem) and V2+ (roof romp direct). These were climbs I had worked on much of the summer. I was very surprised to get boxer problem the first attempt of the day. Usually I work it as a warm up while waiting for pigpen to go into the shade

19 Sep -- sport climbing

11a Onsight! Twister. Newest onsight and hardest Josh sport climb. The slab crux is through two bolts. I stayed left a little onto slighty easier slab. Todd Gordon confirmed it seems legit.

22 Sep -- Hangboard Repeaters #3

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-15)
3 ----------------- 6S (-25)
4 ----------------- 6S (-45)
5 ----------------- 6S (-32.5) 
6 ----------------- 6S (-17.5)
7 ----------------- 3S-5-6-5 (-42.5)  
8 ----------------- 5S-7 (-25) 
9 ----------------- 5S-8 (-32.5)

25-26 Sep

nothing special, V1+ (upsidedown pineapple, it's gorgeous) and a soft V3 (not so thin lizzie). Worked the gunsmoke traverse as usual on Sunday

29 Sep -- Hangboard Repeaters #4

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-15)
3 ----------------- 6S (-25)
4 ----------------- 6S (-45)
5 ----------------- 3S-7-6-5 (-32.5) 
6 ----------------- 3S-9-6-5 (-17.5)
7 ----------------- 4S-6-4 (-42.5)  
8 ----------------- 6S (-25) 
9 ----------------- 4S-8-6 (-32.5)

Notes: unexplined drop in performance. I was hoping to get 6 or 5-x across the board so I could increment the weights next time but I guess I'll keep them again

Aug 2021

4 Aug -- Max Hangs Hangboard #12

1 ----------------- 2S

2 ----------------- 2S (+15)

3 ----------------- 2S (+20)

4 ----------------- 1S,7 (-27.5)  -- keep

5 ----------------- 1S,9 (0 BW)  -- keep

6 ----------------- 2S (+27.5)

7 ----------------- 1S,7 (-22.5) -- keep

8 ----------------- 2S (+22.5)

9 ----------------- 2S (+15)

NOTES: for narrow pinch, I actually got the full hang on the SECOND go. I did this because I let my 2nd knuckles go out, instead of keeping the large fingers flat. I believe this is the proper technique and I should have gotten it much earlier. Made the jump with MR because 5 lbs off was almost nothing. Friction effectively takes care of it. It was a good choice. Going forward I should be able to continue this weekly now that the whole month of travelling has finally ended. 88-93F (yes, it varied that much over the half hour)

7 Aug -- outdoor climbing

Not much though. Morgan and Ryan came up to their desert house, so I tried and fell on a single climb on Saturday (11a sport. Had to cheat past the one crux, despite it being just one hard section, I don't think I'm even close to being able to do it. it's bad friction on small slopey edges). I then worked a little on the V3 pixie rock traverse and this V1 in the group campsites which always has a tent below it. No go for either

8 Aug -- outdoor bouldering, power endurance focus

Worked on the V5 roof crack "bob's big wedge". Very nice movement. Then went over to pigpen. I worked out part of the sequence down low in the cave! Just one more move to unlock and that's getting both my hands in the necessary starting position to finish it. Maybe not enough core strength, so I'm gonna build that a little. Then as usual, went over to work gunsmoke traverse with the 2:4 work:rest ratio 5x

11Aug -- Max Hangs Hangboard #13

1 ----------------- 2S

2 ----------------- 2S (+17.5)

3 ----------------- 1S,9 (+22.5)

4 ----------------- 2S (-27.5)  -- move on! 

5 ----------------- 9,6 (0 BW)  -- keep

6 ----------------- 2S (+30)

7 ----------------- 9,6 (-22.5) -- keep

8 ----------------- 2S (+25)

9 ----------------- 2S (+17.5) -- keep

+

3 sets of 4 attempts each on getting to a front lever (for getting the core ready for the pigpen). Attempts consist of pulling up to curled in knees, sticking one foot out, holding it, then slowly moving the other out. Usually I start lowering during this.

Notes: Using the changed grip for the narrow pinched worked great. Not so much for the wide pinch, still struggling with that difference. Unexplained weakness on the MR. Good temps. cloudy and 79-81F

14-15 Aug - bouldering outdoors. Not much success. However on Sunday I worked out the final move I was missing on pigpen. Also I was able to do the V2 exit crack again (which I didn't get the last few times I tried). So it's all coming together

18Aug -- Max Hangs Hangboard #14

1 ----------------- 2S

2 ----------------- 2S (+20)

3 ----------------- 2S (+25)

4 ----------------- 2S (-25)  -- keep just once to make sure it wasn't a fluke 

5 ----------------- 8,8 (0 BW)  -- keep

6 ----------------- 2S (+32.5)

7 ----------------- 2S (-22.5) -- move on?

8 ----------------- 2S (+27.5)

9 ----------------- 1S-7 (+17.5) -- keep

NOTES: accidentally bumped the medium edge up even though I didn't fully succeed last time. Pinches are building up nicely again. Yet again unexplained why my MR is just getting worse. No supplemental exercise because I think I'm tying gravity rail again tomorrow morning. 85F


Nothing for the rest of August. Missed the hangboard workout on the 25th because I was passing a kidney stone. Then the following weekend I didn't go out, mostly because it was just extra hot

July 2021

 3 Jul - outdoor bouldering (power)

V2, V2, V3 - one of these V2's was one I couldn't do back in April, so that's nice. Another was a slab. The V3, Javaman, was a 2-3 move wonder, followed by effectively a solo traverse out which actually got me a little spooked. I was sweating (Though that may have been due to the mid 90's temperature)



4 Jul - outdoor bouldering (power endurance)

No significant sends today. Worked on the boxer problem (V2, very greasy) and worked on pigpen. I managed to do the 2nd half of pig pen, the exit crack 3 times! So if I can figure out the cave part to the rest, it's going down. Power endurance as usual on gunsmoke. Not as good as last time. Fell at the long reach, then at the next crux. Made it back to the crux after 5 rounds
+
3x 55lb slow dumbell lowers
stretching

7 Jul -- Max Hangs Hangboard #10

1 ----------------- 2S
2 ----------------- 2S (+12.5)
3 ----------------- 2S (+17.5) 
4 ----------------- 7-6 (-27.5) 
5 ----------------- 2S (-7.5)
6 ----------------- 2S (+22.5)
7 ----------------- 2S (-25) -- keep

8 ----------------- 2S (+20)
9 ----------------- 2S (+12.5) -- keep

Notes: When I started these max hangs, the idea of adding 12.5 to my IMR grip and only taking 10 off my MR was scary. (In part due to a slight finger pain). Now I'm just so elated that it's without issue and I've met or exceeded these initial calculations :] I made the right decision to hold back. Temp 84-88 (it changes rapidly from the beginning to the end as it's the morning ~7:15 - 7:45

11Jul - 15Jul Climbing trip to Wyoming

Not to shabby. Onsighted an 11b, got another 11b on 3rd go, 10d on 2nd go. Worked 3 times an 11a, Failed gloriously at the end of a long 10c and very close to failure on a 10b (it just goes to show you there are different styles which can still reduce a climber to lower grades). Very poor performance the first day, fell on 10b and 10d, nothing higher than 10a. It was due to the 2ish hours of sleep I got on the drive in.

21 Jul -- Max Hangs Hangboard #11

1 ----------------- 2S

2 ----------------- 2S (+12.5)

3 ----------------- 2S (+17.5)

4 ----------------- 2S (-27.5)  -- keep still

5 ----------------- 2S (-7.5)

6 ----------------- 2S (+25)

7 ----------------- 2S (-25)

8 ----------------- 2S (+20)

9 ----------------- 2S (+12.5)

Notes: kept the weights mostly the same given I again missed a week due to climbing outside. Narrow pinch at least was successful. Didn't feel the wide pinch or MRP was that limiting, so they can advance next time. Used fan again. Temp ~90F at 7:30 - 8

24 Jul -- outdoor bouldering - power focus

Very bad today. Tried some V2's and V1's, couldn't get them. I only got two V0+'s and was dragging my feet between climbing areas


25 Jul -- outdoor bouldering - power endurance focus

- warmed up working on pigpen. First half then 2nd half. Didn't actually get the 2nd half this time :/



26 Jul - 30 Jul -- travelling + 3 day fast*

Climbed at a gym in Maryland on wed (28Jul), no particular focus, just enjoying the movement up to V4s. Tried a few V6 and V8's, certainly without succeeding. I took this opportunity to do my yearly 3 day fast. I last ate a container of veggies (chickpeas, bell peppers, eggplant or squash?, olive oil) on a Tuesday morning, then didn't eat until Friday afternoon, ~78 hours in total. Broke the fast as prescribed here. In summary: 

• One tablespoon of apple vinegar diluted with 5 ounces of water
• Afterward, bone broth (without meat) with a good pinch of sea salt
• 1.5 hours later, avocado with salt
• 2.5 hours later beef cooked with butter and cooked broccoli

In summary: 
* A note about my diet habits because I haven't recorded this here. It's been about a year since I began fasting regularly (i.e. every day) This is a breakdown of my current regimen:
- daily: 16 hour fast (eat within an 8 hour window, between around 12 noon and 8)

- weekly: one 24 hour fast, dinner to dinner

- yearly: 3 day fast
Why do I do this?
The daily is for disease prevention. Keeping insulin sensitivity high (but insulin levels low) and stave off diseases like diabetes, some cancers, alzheimers, metabolic syndrome

The weekly is for longevity. A 24 hour brings me to autophagy for cell rejuvenation/repair for longevity
The yearly is for immune system health. After around 72 hours, stem cells are stimulated causing a near complete rejuvenation of immune cells. Also around the 2 day mark, I guess natural HGH production quadruples

June 2021

2 June -- Max Hangs Hangboard #7

1 ----------------- 2S
2 ----------------- 2S (+7.5)
3 ----------------- 2S (+12.5)
4 ----------------- 1S,9 (-30) -- sad, so close, but even the 1st was questionable
5 ----------------- 2S (-12.5)
6 ----------------- 2S (+20)
7 ----------------- 2S (-30)

8 ----------------- 2S (+15)
9 ----------------- 2S (+7.5)

NOTES: I missed last week and climbed more over the 3-day weekend prior, so only 1 rest day before. Did this before any bathroom usage, so perhaps a slight disadvantage there Started at 6:10 to beat the heat. 77F

5 June -- outdoor bouldering

V2, V1, V1 --This last one was V3 in the book, but it was downgraded. Figures. I don't think I can get a V3 2nd or 3rd go

7 June - projecting

Staying with Morgan this week, we have a new project- Gravity Rail 5.11-. I got 3 bolts in, then hung, 4, hang, 5 hang, pull on 6th draw. Not pretty but slightly better than my 1st attempt the previous weekend. Also tried warming up on a 5.9 slab, didn't get past the 1st bolt, but nice warmup

9 June - projecting

Warmed up on a 5.8 slab then tried Gravity Rail. Got to the 4th bolt hung, then moved to 5th,hung, then topped.

10 June - projecting

Got to the 5th bolt on Gravity Rail. Tried moving past it, got the large block, the pinch then went for the horn (Morgan and I deem "heartbreak horn"). Fell. 2nd attempt I got the 5th bolt as well, I think I fell going for the large block after the 5th clip

12 June - outdoor bouldering

V3, V2, V1, V1, V1 (probably all soft, certainly the V3 wa)

13 June - power endurance

worked heart of darkness on a TR solo (made it 2 of the 4* attempts without falling)

Tried gunsmoke traverse (continuing from where I last fell) with a 2:4 duty cycle. 5 sets, did a little worse than last time
*technically 5 and the last I fell, this last one had more of a "leading feel" because I was taking the rope down after, so I removed the tension weight at the bottom and had to pause every once in a while to pull the slack through. Still mentally scary

14 June -- Max Hangs Hangboard #8

1 ----------------- 2S
2 ----------------- 2S (+10)
3 ----------------- 2S (+15)
4 ----------------- 2S (-30) -- barely, keep
5 ----------------- 2S (-10)
6 ----------------- 2S (+22.5)
7 ----------------- 2S (-30) -- solid, increment

8 ----------------- 2S (+17.5)
9 ----------------- 2S (+10)

NOTES: good session. despite it being 84F at 6am! (and certainly warmer inside). I added a fan blowing across the board, so maybe a little advantage there. It's so warm at night I sweat, wondering if the lost water weight conferred some benefit

19 June -- Power (indoor limit bouldering)

went to a gym (ACG) today because I'm not in J-tree. After some warmups ending with a V5 3rdish go and a close V5 flash, I did:
V6 on a slab wall, then worked, but did not complete two V7s and a V6. One V7 was vertical and crimpy, The other two climbs were overhanging a bit. Ended with an "intense cooldown" on a V5 slab with slopers

23 June -- outdoor projecting

Tried Gravity rail again, didn't doas well. Got to the 4th bolt before falling. It was 84 and humid

25 June -- outdoor climbing

Tried a 10d called "pet or meat". Did 2 attempts but was very close

26 June -- Power (outdoor limit bouldering)

Two V2's (book said one was V1, but it was stout) - One was a crack, the other was my V2 project! (The one I first tried back on May 1st). Probably the hardest boulder I've done

27 June -- Power Endurance

V1 and V2 : note the V1 I tried in January (where the advantage of friction is more available) and couldn't get it. Today, I got it 2nd go. 7 tries on the V2, holds were small and delicate, but I wouldn't have been surprised if it was just a V1 (i.e., it's soft for the region, but not the softest I've encountered)
+

2:4 work:rest on Gunsmoke. Best attempt so far. On the 1st, I got past the long reach, then fell at the next crux. 2nd attempt I got to and fell just at the corner. 3rd I finished to the end then began reversing. 4th, I got through the corner falling just past, and last, I got to the crux
+
3x5 slow dumbell lowers 52.5 lbs
stretching

29 June -- Max Hangs Hangboard #9

1 ----------------- 2S
2 ----------------- 2S (+10)
3 ----------------- 2S (+15) *
4 ----------------- 2S (-30) 
5 ----------------- 2S (-10)
6 ----------------- 2S (+22.5)
7 ----------------- 2S (-27.5) -- solid again! increment

8 ----------------- 2S (+17.5)
9 ----------------- 2S (+12.5)

NOTES: *I actually failed (last second) on the 1st, but I think it was a friction thing, I added in a fan and held on for an extra 1-2 seconds. 90F at 7:30-8am. Halfway through I realized how easy thigns felt, had I known, I would have bumped up the weights (again, potentially water weight lost overnight from sweating, I didn't pee very much in the morning despite all the ice water I drank yesterday to cool down)

30 Jun-- outdoor sport climbing

Did Pet or meat! Josh 10d, now my hardest sport climb in this very old school area. Very smooth given I know the correct beta. 2nd session, 1st go of the day, 3rd go overall

May 2021

1 May - outdoor bouldering (power)

Did a V0+ and a V1-, the 0+ on the zarmog boulder I actually tried in the winter and couldn't get it, so I'm happy that later, in the sun and heat I managed to get it. Improvement! I also scoped out planetX and found a challenging, but doable V2 traverse (by the satellite boulder) which may be a new project

2 May - outdoor bouldering (power endurance)

Did a V1 and V2:
V1 - false hueco, first time on the rock, got it in 3-4 tries. Tried the traverse after and did ok, but I don't think the pockets and angle and all together were stable enough
V2 - bulgemaster - climbed with a cool group of people, we tried this, I unlocked the sequence after 4 goes and even started a little lower to ensure I wasn't "cheating"
+
Ended the day with 5 sets of 1:2 work:rest on gunsmoke traverse and I believe I got further than ever on the 1st attempt (to about where the first ground rock is). Then I jumped on the chube. The people that were there were not even trying to spot, so I didn't have the confidence to pull the topout, but it felt much easier than my first try during my first time back in Oct/Nov

NOTES: happy to get a V1 and V2 that weren't gimme's as well as the improvement in gunsmoke and chube. Clear improvement!

5May -- Max Hangs Hangboard #4

1 ----------------- 2S
2 ----------------- 2S (+5) -- keep, tweaky
3 ----------------- 2S (+10)
4 ----------------- 2S (-35) -- keep, left hand pain
5 ----------------- 2S (-15) -- keep tweaky
6 ----------------- 2S (+17.5)
7 ----------------- 2S (-32.5)  -- not bad, but maybe keep for pinch consistency

8 ----------------- 2S (+7.5) -- easy
9 ----------------- 2S (0) i.e. BW - easy

12May -- Max Hangs Hangboard #5

1 ----------------- 2S
2 ----------------- 2S (+5)
3 ----------------- 2S (+10)
4 ----------------- 2S (-35)
5 ----------------- 2S (-15)
6 ----------------- 2S (+17.5)
7 ----------------- 2S (-32.5)

8 ----------------- 2S (+10)
9 ----------------- 2S (+2.5)

NOTES: ~82F at 8:30 am. Most "worrisome grip" was the pinches because of the strain, but I"m ready to up the weight next time

15 - 16 May -- outdoor climbing. 
Not much because Morgan, Erica, Ryan, Hillary and their kids came. Saturday got some bouldering in, managed to hold the first move on the V2 in campfire boulder, as well as hold the 2nd. Thought I did the V3 traverse on pixie boulder, but the guidebook makes it clear I need to stay along the lip until further down. Sunday did a Josh 10a sport (probably soft)

19May -- Max Hangs Hangboard #6

1 ----------------- 2S
2 ----------------- 2S (+7.5)
3 ----------------- 2S (+12.5)
4 ----------------- 2S (-30) -- accidentally jumped by 5
5 ----------------- 2S (-12.5)
6 ----------------- 2S (+20)
7 ----------------- 2S (-30)

8 ----------------- 2S (+12.5)
9 ----------------- 2S (+5)

NOTES: ~81F at 9 am. Can feel the left hand pain during the warmup and only when I'm squeezing a shirt or something narrow (not like a crimp, but like a flat-fingered pinch). Barely noticeable during the actual pinches

21May -- outdoor bouldering

Taking advantage of cool weather to climb now instead of waiting until the weekend and it was a good choice!
Got this V1 in echo Tee, the one that began with moving off two wide pinches. I think the hangboarding really came in handy because I was able to hold them solidly compared to my first attempt back in early March. Also did a soft V1 and V2 in jacksonville (near the inquisition block)

22May --Got the False Hueco Traverse (V2) first go today (I failed it last time when I tried it on May 2nd). Also made some progress with the upper crack on pigpen

23 May power endurance.
Did 2 sport routes with Morgan (one was a soft 10a). Then I did the indian cove 5 sets of 1:1 work rest (approximately, I left my phone in my car so I couldn't explicitely time it)

29May -- bouldering
Got a V2 (Way of the Weasel) in the meadows boulder. It was a one-move-wonder type of climb, but tood many tries. Then I worked on the V2 out in planet X. I was able to do it in 3 distinct sections, now it's all about linking and brunting through the pain

30May -- outdoor sport

short day, a warmup climb then 2 attempts on a J-tree 11 (gravity rail) Morgan did very well, getting to the 4th bolt on his 1st go, then the 5th on the next. I, by contrast, got to the 2nd then 3rd respectively.

31May -- outdoor bouldering
Really just got a V1, found a V3 project in the shade which connects to a desperate wide handcrack finish. Finished the day doing power endurance on gunsmoke. This time, different from the other attempts, I just continued on from where I fell in the previous burn. Didn't make it all the way back in my 5 attmpts (ranging from ~ 1:15-1:45 each 1:2 duty cycle)

Apr 2021

 Took an extended break, about 2 weeks because a bit of hand pain (both hands, altering almost)

MAX HANG PROTOCOL
Doing the same hangs, but with 10 seconds on and 2 minutes off, 2 sets for each  grip type. By some estimates, repeaters are 60-70% of your max intensity and  max hangs are 80-90%. To be conservative, I'm assuming I'll go from 70 perfecnt to 80 percent. So I crunched the numbers to get the starting weights. However, I'm adding more counter weight at first to the MR to avoid overstraining 

13 Apr -- Max Hangs Hangboard #1

1 ----------------- 2S
2 ----------------- 2S (0) -- calculations should bring this to +12.5, but I'm playing it safe
3 ----------------- 1S,9 (+2.5)
4 ----------------- 3,3 (-25) -- BAD (need more coutnerweight)
5 ----------------- 2S (-20) -- calculations should bring this to -10, but I'm playing it safe
6 ----------------- 2S (+10)
7 ----------------- 3,2 (-20) -- BAD (need more counterweight) 

8 ----------------- 2S (0) -- i.e. BW 
9 ----------------- 2S (-10)

14 Apr -- supplemental exercises

various excercises with stretch bands, like rotary cuff stuff

17 Apr -- outdoor bouldering (~power)

Did a (soft) V2 and solo'd 5.6

18 Apr -- power endurance

Climbed the V3 project in the mullet bloc area
+
5 rounds of 1:2 work:rest on some random boulder traverse in the middle of nowhere

21Apr -- Max Hangs Hangboard #2

1 ----------------- 2S
2 ----------------- 2S (+2.5) -- Actually did +5 1st round, but dropped. Keep
3 ----------------- 2S (+5)
4 ----------------- 2S (-37.5) -- barely. Keep
5 ----------------- 2S (-17.5) -- keep, tweaky 
6 ----------------- 2S (+12.5) -- easy
7 ----------------- 2S (-35) 

8 ----------------- 2S (+2.5)
9 ----------------- 2S (-7.5) -- easy

24 Apr -- outdoor sport

in AV. 10 climbs, mostly mid 10s. one was either 10d-11b and was pumpy, OS

25 Apr -- outdoor boulder, power

5 boulders, 0,1,1,1,2 Mostly stout for the grade in Ryan campground
+
5,5 eccentric DB lowers (50llbs)

28Apr -- Max Hangs Hangboard #3

1 ----------------- 2S
2 ----------------- 2S (+2.5)
3 ----------------- 2S (+7.5)
4 ----------------- 2S (-37.5)
5 ----------------- 2S (-17.5)
6 ----------------- 2S (+15)
7 ----------------- 2S (-35) 

8 ----------------- 2S (+5)
9 ----------------- 2S (-5) (dd -5 then BW)

Mar 2021

 Going to add a tendon protocol as per here

TENDON PROTOCOL
  2x per day with at least 6 hours apart:
10 "no hangs" (feet on floor, try to load with 80% capacity). 10s on 50s off, progressively load
- 3 sets of medium edge half crimp (using top row of RPTC outermost size)
- 3 sets of IMR open position
- MR open
- IM open
- MR crimp  + short pinky stretch
- IM crimp + short pinky stretch

I'm going to do this 30 - 60 mins after my meals because there's a higher concentration of proteins circulating (glycine and proline). I will do this on non climbing days and non hangboard days, (i.e. usually not on weekends and Wednesdays)

2 Mar - Tendon Protocol

3 Mar -- Hangboard #12

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-12.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-22.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-42.5)
5 ----------------- 5S-9 (-30) 
6 ----------------- 5S-9 (-15)
7 ----------------- 4S-6-5 (-40)  
8 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-22.5) 
9 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-30)

 +

supplemental exercises

3 sets

-5+5 eccentric dumbell lowers (45lbs)
-5 ring dips

-5 KTE
NOTES: Not as good, despite cooler temps. Part of me wonders if the low weekend stimulus affected this. IN theory strength should not diminish over a week ~52

4 Mar and 5 Mar - tendon protocol, but just once each day and NOT after meal times as planned

6 Mar - Climbing gym. Not much a plan, tried power because it's soft "rock" indoors

7 Mar - Climbing outside - power endurance day

slow day, tried a V2 on asteroid boulder, was able once to bump my feet up and hold the starting position. Same with a V2 on the arete boulder (in echo cove). Did a V1 successfully and a few "solos" (5.2 x 2, 5.8, 5.9 -- these laste were rally boulders with easy topout sections)
+
power endurance with the rambler (V0 traverse nearby gunsmoke)
3x5 with 1:2 work:rest (got faster each time)
2:00 ,1:30 ,1:30, 1:20, 1:00

8 Mar -- tendon protocol

9 Mar -- tendon protocol -- just the morning one

10 Mar -- Hangboard #13

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-10)
3 ----------------- 6S (-20)
4 ----------------- 5S-5 (-40)
5 ----------------- 3S-7-7-3 (-22.5) -- whoops, misread - should have been 2 7.5
6 ----------------- 6S (-12.5)
7 ----------------- 4S-9-5 (-37.5)  
8 ----------------- 5S-7 (-20) 
9 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)

 +

supplemental exercises

3 sets

-5+5 eccentric dumbell lowers (45lbs) -- can add 2.5 (did 6 accidentally for the 2nd round)

-5 KTE

-5 ring dips (10lbs) -- little rough on the sternum
NOTES: Quite a good session! Made a grave error with my middle-ring dropping 7.5lbs instead of 2.5. Risky for sure, but I "survived". Going to take it back to where it "should" be ~48

11 + 12 Mar - Tendon protocol (one of these was both days, the other was just once)


13 Mar - Bad day. Hauled my crash pad all around rattlesnake canyon and didn't find ym boulders. Did some Ended the day with 3 onsight solos (4,6,7) on hodgepodge rock. The 6 and 7 both had some 1-2 move sketchy sections where the crack didn't exist or was insufficent, but I'm a little more confident after getting them.

14 Mar - climbed in the mullet block V1 and V2 flash (soft). Found a nice also likely soft V3 worked on for an hour, no success. One more big move to finish I think. 

New Project Boulder - V3 "Moral Wasteland"

Finished with an onsight solo of Mike's books (5.6). Surpising slab finish on the 2nd pitch

15 Mar - textbook tendon protocol

17 Mar -- Hangboard #14

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-7.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-17.5)
4 ----------------- 4S-2-6 (-37.5) -- made spur of the moment decision to drop - 40 next time
5 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-12.5)
7 ----------------- 4S-8-7 (-37.5)  
8 ----------------- 5S-9 (-20) 
9 ----------------- 5S-8 (-27.5)

 +

supplemental exercises

3 sets

-5+5 eccentric dumbell lowers (47.5lbs)

-5 ring dips (5lbs) -- dropped added weight to ease sternum strain

-5 toes-to-bar -- a bit of a progression beyond KTE
NOTES: Good session. Felt 10 degrees warmer than it was ~58

18 Mar - tendon protocol

20 Mar - long hike and some bouldering 6 hours of hiking total about 3 in and 3 out to the underground. Unsure if the rock quality was worth the hike. Grading is also soft as well, so I'm doubtful of the four V1's and single V2 I got.

21 Mar - Bouldering + power endurance
Two V1's and two V2's in barker damn area. Again, I'm doubftul of the grades feeling so soft given it's an "old school" area.
+
power-endurance
1:2 work:rest
Finished with 5 attempts on gunsmoke. Didn't finish of course, not even the 1st quarter. But first two laps were about 1.5 mins, last three were about 1 minute. Didn't feel as deeply pumped as I should have been.
Met a 19 year old who has been climbing for about 4 years. He did the full traverse of course and almost flashed high-noon (V5). Feeling jealous because earlier today he did satanic mechanic (12b sport). He also worked desert shield (13a). I'm scum.

24 Mar -- Hangboard #15

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-7.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-17.5)
4 ----------------- 4S-1-6 (-40)
5 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-10)
7 ----------------- 4S-9-5 (-37.5)  
8 ----------------- 6S (-20) 
9 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)

 +

supplemental exercises

2 sets

-5+5 eccentric dumbell lowers (50lbs)

-5 ring dips (5lbs) -- dropped added weight to ease sternum strain

-5 toes-to-bar 
NOTES: Had an almost scary pain in the left kidney region most of the day. Scared to possibly pass another stone. Only 2 sets of SE because after the 3rd, my stomach felt weird then I threw up. Had a long sleep and am feeling much better, no more kidney pain. I think I'm going to change it up and do max hang protocol instead for some time. I feel like I'm plateauing about now ~57

25 Mar  -- outdoor climbing
Pavel is visiting. I lead a 5.8 and 5.9. Tough start and kind of sloppy on the 5.9, but still an onsight

26 Mar -- outdoor climbing

continuing with Pavel's visit. Didn't push the envelope, he was practicing trad lead, so I solo'd up to clean his routes 6 routes. mos t were 5.4 and easier, one was 5.6, but really just a committing 1-2 moves

27 Mar -- outdoor climbing
Red Rock Canyon 3 trad multiptiches:
Sand felipe 10- I led the crux first pitch
Triassic sands - I lead the crux first two and final (both 10-)
Frogland - Simuled the first 2 5.7 pitches (lots of stress to not pull him off, felt kind of like a solo) and the crux 4th pitch (5.8, but plenty of rope drag)

28 Mar -- outdoor climbing
Red Rocks limeston in mt Potosi
10 routes, 8 were 5.10 and above. one in the guide book was 5.11a, so it's good to know I can climb 5.11 outside of apple valley :]


31 Mar -- tendon protool - just evening
Today would have been a hanboarding day, but my left hand feels a little tweaked, so I'm delaying a week

Feb 2021

3 Feb -- Hangboard #8

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-20)
3 ----------------- 6S (-30)
4 ----------------- 5S-9 (-50)
5 ----------------- 5S-9 (-37.5) 
6 ----------------- 5S-9 (-22.5)
7 ----------------- 4S-5-5 (-47.5)  
8 ----------------- 5S-8 (-30) 
9 ----------------- 4S-6-5 (-37.5)

 +

supplemental exercises

3 sets

-5+5 one arm ring rows +7.5lbs
-20 second L-sits

-5 very slow pushups ~12s ea (raised feet and on paralletes)

NOTES:  Much more of an improvment! Went very well despite being much warmer, and having a write pain. Just goes to show you conditions don't have to be perfect. I'm gonna start putting the ambient temperature though so I can see improvments due to (or in spite of) the difference -- 6pm 63F



6 Feb -- bouldering 
Got two V3s, one was SOFT, barely V1. The other (the Fade) was maybe softer than other V3s in the park but still took me over 3 sessions. I taped up which allowd me to press of a sharp crimp so I don't know if I necessarily got stronger or if I indeed actually got a legitimate new grade




7Feb -- bouldering + power endurance
two V1s in HVCG. Also tried another Dynamo Hum on the triangle boulder. I think it will go, It's just a little tall, so with a second pad and a spotter, I might commit
+
power endurance laps on another V1 (intersection traverse) which is a 30ft undercling traverse. Bad feel, lots of smearing -- I haven't actually climbed this successfully but I got further during two of my laps than in the morning when I was working it. 
5 rounds 2-3 minutes with a 1:2 work:rest ratio
+
3 sets
5+5 40lb accentric dumbell lowers -- mostly to work on elbow pain

NOTES: elbow pain less severe today than the last 2 weeks, but I should up the weight

10 Feb -- Hangboard #9

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-17.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-47.5)
5 ----------------- 6S (-35) 
6 ----------------- 5S-9 (-20)
7 ----------------- 5S-7 (-45)  
8 ----------------- 6S (-27.5) 
9 ----------------- 4S-9-6 (-35)

 +

supplemental exercises

3 sets

-5+5 one arm ring rows +10lbs
-20 second L-sits

-5 very slow pushups ~12s ea (raised feet and on paralletes)

NOTES:  Great session! I removed 2.5 lbs and improved in everything-- 6pm 61F

13 Feb -- outdoor sport
Climbed an 11 roof. Also tried for the 2nd time this horrid 11b (hang time?) I can see it being possible. But it's sustained throughout and the top is technical and low probability, will be a true power endurance test




14 Feb -- boulder + power endurance
Noteable - V1 on the anvil boulder - scary arette
+
5 rounds work: rest 1:1 (beaue it was longer but lower intensity, I reduced the ratio)
~3 mins each. Unknown boulder visible from the anvil
+
3 x 5+5 45 lb slow dumbell lowers for elbow pain

17 Feb -- Hangboard #10

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-15)
3 ----------------- 6S (-25)
4 ----------------- 6S (-45)
5 ----------------- 6S (-32.5) 
6 ----------------- 6S (-17.5)
7 ----------------- 5S-9 (-42.5)  
8 ----------------- 6S (-25) 
9 ----------------- 5S-7 (-32.5)

 +

supplemental exercises

3 sets

-5+5 one arm ring rows +12.5lbs
-20 second L-sits

-5 very slow pushups ~12s ea (raised feet and on parallettes)

NOTES:  Great session! I removed 2.5 lbs and improved in everything again. Wonder if it was the temperature -- 7pm 52F


20 Feb -- poor trad day
Tried lower right ski track 5.10. Could not hold it together through the crux (which is even bolt protected!). Also a guy solo'd it beforehand. Did it on TR and it went, but still felt insecure. I don't feel like a good climber today

21 Feb -- boulder project send! + power endurance + SE

Bouldering noteable ascents, V1 and V2 in Manx boulderes. that V1 was Gambit. I've put 4-5 sessions into this over the course of a month. Happy to get it, but sad as I thought it was V2. The V2 went down after just 3 tries, felt much easier.
+
power endurance laps on the orbiter again
5 sets of 2:4 work:rest
1st round felt very insecure and not that fresh, but got better as they progressed
+
3 rnds 5+5 slow dumbell lower (45lbs)
3 rnds of:
-3 wrist curl lowers (30lbs) -- not very good. awkwardly large for the edge and touched the ground too early
-10 slow band extensions

Elbow pain as usual only onsets on Sundays on/after the power endurance. So trying some other stuff

24 Feb -- Hangboard #11

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-12.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-22.5)
4 ----------------- 5S-8 (-42.5)
5 ----------------- 6S (-30) 
6 ----------------- 5S-9 (-15)
7 ----------------- 4S-8-5 (-40)  
8 ----------------- 5S-8 (-22.5) 
9 ----------------- 5S-7 (-30)

 +

supplemental exercises

3 sets

-5+5 one arm ring rows + 15lbs
-20 second L-sits

-5 very slow pushups ~12s ea (raised feet and on parallettes)

NOTES: Yet again surprised by the performance despite subtracting counterweight across the board. ~64

27 + 28 Mar Trad climbing
Climbed in the park with Bobby and his friend. They are new at trad and 3 people are slow, so each day I did 4 climbs. Stimulus was not very high
27th grades:  7+, 8,9,8
28th grades: 6,8,9,9 + 5.4 night solo

Jan '21

1/1/2021
NEW SPORT GRADE!

Climbed Raindbow drive 5.11d in New Jack city. 2nd go of the day. Probably soft in retrospect, but I'll take it. Bouldery start felt easier than last year, holding it together for the rest (and the 2nd crux) was hard.

6 Jan -- Hangboard #6

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-20)
3 ----------------- 6S (-30)
4 ----------------- 4S-5-5 (-50)
5 ----------------- 3S-9-5-5 (-37.5) 
6 ----------------- 6S (-25)  
7 ----------------- 4S-8-6 (-47.5)  
8 ----------------- 4S-6-5 (-30) 
9 ----------------- 4S-5-5 (-37.5)

 +

supplemental exercises

3 sets

-5+5 one arm ring rows 

-20 second L-sits
-5 very slow pushups (raised feet and on paralletes)

10 Jan -- Outdoor bouldering

Climbed in the Crystal Skull, worked and eventually got a V2 -- "Mantelzuma's revenge" Probable my hardest actual ourdoor boulder so far, worked it for about an hour

13 Jan -- Hangboard #7

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-20)
3 ----------------- 6S (-30)
4 ----------------- 4S-6-5 (-50)
5 ----------------- 4S-8-4 (-37.5) 
6 ----------------- 6S (-25)  -------- drop next time
7 ----------------- 4S-9-4 (-47.5)  
8 ----------------- 4S-6-7 (-30) 
9 ----------------- 4S-7-6 (-37.5)

 +

supplemental exercises

3 sets

-5+5 one arm ring rows + 5lbs
-20 second L-sits

-5 very slow pushups (raised feet and on paralletes)

NOTES: moderate improvement. Part of the problem is once per week isn't good at gaining strength. Surpised though, after the success with the boulder problem, I figured there would have been a little more improvement.

18 Jan -- power endurance

3rd day in a row climbing with Pavel. Finished over at Seth and Sabrah's. They have an outdoor bouldering wall. I went up some white route, came down and rested on a black jug then traversed up and left. 4 rounds. Didn't time it, but interestingly I completed on the 4th and final round

23 Jan -- power endurance

Nothing new and usually I don't log these sessions. But I got a Josh V1 (roof mantle). But I want to start doing fewer climbs (mostly I just have V-easy and some gimme V0's, I need to start building my pyramid with V1s and V2s)
+
Interceptor rock - The orbitor V3
4 rounds of 1:2 work:rest (about 2.5 mins to complete "an orbit"*)

*I've not finished this climb, it's a V3 the one final section is tough



31 Jan -- power endurance

Gingerly worked a little of the pigpen (V4), almost got a full link up to the no-hands rest. Practiced the exit move, separately.

Interceptor rock - The orbitor V3
4 rounds of 1:2 work:rest (about 2.5 mins to complete "an orbit"*)
+
Supplemental exercise:
Elbow pain so I did 3 sets
5+5 slow dumbell lowers (40lbs)