Saturday, September 28, 2019

Sep/Oct 2019

First Full RCTM cycle!:





Phase 1 - General fitness

28 Sep -  8 moderates
w/u - up/down,up/down on a 10a
10a,10b,10d,10d,10d,10b,11a(f),10a(f)  - performed in blocks of  2 (Did 8 accidentally instead of 6)



29 Sep - 4 moderates
w/u - up/down,up/down on a 10a
10b,10c,10c,10b  - in blocks of 2


1 Oct - ARC
2 x 20 (swapping with Morgan on a TR wall)



3 OCT - ARC
2 x 25 (traversing and climbing up, down, in a W pattern on the wall)



5 Oct - 7 moderates
W/u up down up down 10a
10b/c x4, 10d, 10c, 11d (dihedral)


6 oct - 5 moderates
W/u udud 10a
10d, 10c, 10d,10c,10b



8 Oct - 2x30 ARC



10 Oct - 2x30 ARC



12 Oct - 8 moderates
10b,10c,11b,10c, hand crack, 11a,10d,11a



13 Oct - 6 moderates
Climbed "the long climb in taquitz" 6 pitches


15 Oct- ARC
3 x 25


17 Oct - ARC
3 x 25  (very fun today, also missed yesterday, so I did3 sets instead of 2)


20 Oct - 10 moderates
10c,10d,11a,11b,11b(f),11b,10d, 11a,10c, 11d(dihedral, f)


22 Oct - ARC
3 x 30

23 Oct - ARC
3 x 30

24 Oct - ARC
2 x 30 (fun the 2nd round)


STRENGTH PHASE


26 OCT --HB#1

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-20)  ---------------:: too easy, did deeper pocket accidentally
3 ----------------- 6S (-45)
4 ----------------- 6S (-60)
5 ----------------- 6S (-50)
6 ----------------- 6S (-45) -----:: too easy, swapped and did wrong edge size
7 ----------------- 6S (-55)
8 ----------------- 6S (-35)
9 ----------------- 6S (-45)

Eased into, didn't do much of a warmup, subtract 2.5 - 5 lbs next time


29 OCT --HB#2

1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 5S  5s on 3rd round (-17.5)  ------:: too hard with small edge, add 10 next time
3 ----------------- 6S (-42.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-57.5)
5 ----------------- 6S (-47.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-42.5) -----:: too easy drop 7.5 next time
7 ----------------- 6S (-52.5)
8 ----------------- 6S (-32.5)
9 ----------------- 6S (-42.5)
+
Suplemental exercises
3 supersets of:
- 8 chair dips
- 8 posterior raises (5 lbs)
- 8 forceful bridge squeezes

A breif catch up

April to Mid June was a HUGE climbing trip. Southern CA to Arizona, to Utah to Nevada to middle and Northen California, to WA and all the way back down the CA coast

Did around 200 climbs (101 in the month of April), got my first 10a trad lead in Joshua tree (err ok it was a pink point, but it was HARD), Lead my first successful 11s (4: one 11a Onsights, two llb OS and one 11a redpoint) Then did several trad 10s in indian creek (soft but still counts for the grade I think).

Since then I've done but didn't log numerous climbs in the gym, Getting an 11c I believe, and several other 11s during the 4x4's with Morgan. I got 3 in a row at one point. And now, after 3 months of the trip ends, I've been granted a climbing membership to senderOne and I'm about to start my first full 17 week training cycle with Morgan!