3 Feb -- Hangboard #8
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-20)
3 ----------------- 6S (-30)
4 ----------------- 5S-9 (-50)
5 ----------------- 5S-9 (-37.5)
6 ----------------- 5S-9 (-22.5)
7 ----------------- 4S-5-5 (-47.5)
8 ----------------- 5S-8 (-30)
9 ----------------- 4S-6-5 (-37.5)
2 ----------------- 6S (-20)
3 ----------------- 6S (-30)
4 ----------------- 5S-9 (-50)
5 ----------------- 5S-9 (-37.5)
6 ----------------- 5S-9 (-22.5)
7 ----------------- 4S-5-5 (-47.5)
8 ----------------- 5S-8 (-30)
9 ----------------- 4S-6-5 (-37.5)
+
supplemental exercises
3 sets
-5+5 one arm ring rows +7.5lbs
-20 second L-sits
-20 second L-sits
-5 very slow pushups ~12s ea (raised feet and on paralletes)
NOTES: Much more of an improvment! Went very well despite being much warmer, and having a write pain. Just goes to show you conditions don't have to be perfect. I'm gonna start putting the ambient temperature though so I can see improvments due to (or in spite of) the difference -- 6pm 63F
6 Feb -- bouldering
Got two V3s, one was SOFT, barely V1. The other (the Fade) was maybe softer than other V3s in the park but still took me over 3 sessions. I taped up which allowd me to press of a sharp crimp so I don't know if I necessarily got stronger or if I indeed actually got a legitimate new grade
7Feb -- bouldering + power endurance
two V1s in HVCG. Also tried another Dynamo Hum on the triangle boulder. I think it will go, It's just a little tall, so with a second pad and a spotter, I might commit
+
power endurance laps on another V1 (intersection traverse) which is a 30ft undercling traverse. Bad feel, lots of smearing -- I haven't actually climbed this successfully but I got further during two of my laps than in the morning when I was working it.
5 rounds 2-3 minutes with a 1:2 work:rest ratio
+
3 sets
5+5 40lb accentric dumbell lowers -- mostly to work on elbow pain
NOTES: elbow pain less severe today than the last 2 weeks, but I should up the weight
NOTES: Much more of an improvment! Went very well despite being much warmer, and having a write pain. Just goes to show you conditions don't have to be perfect. I'm gonna start putting the ambient temperature though so I can see improvments due to (or in spite of) the difference -- 6pm 63F
6 Feb -- bouldering
Got two V3s, one was SOFT, barely V1. The other (the Fade) was maybe softer than other V3s in the park but still took me over 3 sessions. I taped up which allowd me to press of a sharp crimp so I don't know if I necessarily got stronger or if I indeed actually got a legitimate new grade
7Feb -- bouldering + power endurance
two V1s in HVCG. Also tried another Dynamo Hum on the triangle boulder. I think it will go, It's just a little tall, so with a second pad and a spotter, I might commit
+
power endurance laps on another V1 (intersection traverse) which is a 30ft undercling traverse. Bad feel, lots of smearing -- I haven't actually climbed this successfully but I got further during two of my laps than in the morning when I was working it.
5 rounds 2-3 minutes with a 1:2 work:rest ratio
+
3 sets
5+5 40lb accentric dumbell lowers -- mostly to work on elbow pain
NOTES: elbow pain less severe today than the last 2 weeks, but I should up the weight
10 Feb -- Hangboard #9
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-17.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-47.5)
5 ----------------- 6S (-35)
6 ----------------- 5S-9 (-20)
7 ----------------- 5S-7 (-45)
8 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
9 ----------------- 4S-9-6 (-35)
2 ----------------- 6S (-17.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
4 ----------------- 6S (-47.5)
5 ----------------- 6S (-35)
6 ----------------- 5S-9 (-20)
7 ----------------- 5S-7 (-45)
8 ----------------- 6S (-27.5)
9 ----------------- 4S-9-6 (-35)
+
supplemental exercises
3 sets
-5+5 one arm ring rows +10lbs
-20 second L-sits
-20 second L-sits
-5 very slow pushups ~12s ea (raised feet and on paralletes)
NOTES: Great session! I removed 2.5 lbs and improved in everything-- 6pm 61F
NOTES: Great session! I removed 2.5 lbs and improved in everything-- 6pm 61F
13 Feb -- outdoor sport
Climbed an 11 roof. Also tried for the 2nd time this horrid 11b (hang time?) I can see it being possible. But it's sustained throughout and the top is technical and low probability, will be a true power endurance test
14 Feb -- boulder + power endurance
Noteable - V1 on the anvil boulder - scary arette
+
5 rounds work: rest 1:1 (beaue it was longer but lower intensity, I reduced the ratio)
~3 mins each. Unknown boulder visible from the anvil
+
3 x 5+5 45 lb slow dumbell lowers for elbow pain
Climbed an 11 roof. Also tried for the 2nd time this horrid 11b (hang time?) I can see it being possible. But it's sustained throughout and the top is technical and low probability, will be a true power endurance test
14 Feb -- boulder + power endurance
Noteable - V1 on the anvil boulder - scary arette
+
5 rounds work: rest 1:1 (beaue it was longer but lower intensity, I reduced the ratio)
~3 mins each. Unknown boulder visible from the anvil
+
3 x 5+5 45 lb slow dumbell lowers for elbow pain
17 Feb -- Hangboard #10
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-15)
3 ----------------- 6S (-25)
4 ----------------- 6S (-45)
5 ----------------- 6S (-32.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-17.5)
7 ----------------- 5S-9 (-42.5)
8 ----------------- 6S (-25)
9 ----------------- 5S-7 (-32.5)
2 ----------------- 6S (-15)
3 ----------------- 6S (-25)
4 ----------------- 6S (-45)
5 ----------------- 6S (-32.5)
6 ----------------- 6S (-17.5)
7 ----------------- 5S-9 (-42.5)
8 ----------------- 6S (-25)
9 ----------------- 5S-7 (-32.5)
+
supplemental exercises
3 sets
-5+5 one arm ring rows +12.5lbs
-20 second L-sits
-20 second L-sits
-5 very slow pushups ~12s ea (raised feet and on parallettes)
NOTES: Great session! I removed 2.5 lbs and improved in everything again. Wonder if it was the temperature -- 7pm 52F
20 Feb -- poor trad day
Tried lower right ski track 5.10. Could not hold it together through the crux (which is even bolt protected!). Also a guy solo'd it beforehand. Did it on TR and it went, but still felt insecure. I don't feel like a good climber today
NOTES: Great session! I removed 2.5 lbs and improved in everything again. Wonder if it was the temperature -- 7pm 52F
20 Feb -- poor trad day
Tried lower right ski track 5.10. Could not hold it together through the crux (which is even bolt protected!). Also a guy solo'd it beforehand. Did it on TR and it went, but still felt insecure. I don't feel like a good climber today
21 Feb -- boulder project send! + power endurance + SE
Bouldering noteable ascents, V1 and V2 in Manx boulderes. that V1 was Gambit. I've put 4-5 sessions into this over the course of a month. Happy to get it, but sad as I thought it was V2. The V2 went down after just 3 tries, felt much easier.
+
power endurance laps on the orbiter again
5 sets of 2:4 work:rest
1st round felt very insecure and not that fresh, but got better as they progressed
+
3 rnds 5+5 slow dumbell lower (45lbs)
3 rnds of:
-3 wrist curl lowers (30lbs) -- not very good. awkwardly large for the edge and touched the ground too early
-10 slow band extensions
Elbow pain as usual only onsets on Sundays on/after the power endurance. So trying some other stuff
+
power endurance laps on the orbiter again
5 sets of 2:4 work:rest
1st round felt very insecure and not that fresh, but got better as they progressed
+
3 rnds 5+5 slow dumbell lower (45lbs)
3 rnds of:
-3 wrist curl lowers (30lbs) -- not very good. awkwardly large for the edge and touched the ground too early
-10 slow band extensions
Elbow pain as usual only onsets on Sundays on/after the power endurance. So trying some other stuff
24 Feb -- Hangboard #11
1 ----------------- 6S
2 ----------------- 6S (-12.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-22.5)
4 ----------------- 5S-8 (-42.5)
5 ----------------- 6S (-30)
6 ----------------- 5S-9 (-15)
7 ----------------- 4S-8-5 (-40)
8 ----------------- 5S-8 (-22.5)
9 ----------------- 5S-7 (-30)
2 ----------------- 6S (-12.5)
3 ----------------- 6S (-22.5)
4 ----------------- 5S-8 (-42.5)
5 ----------------- 6S (-30)
6 ----------------- 5S-9 (-15)
7 ----------------- 4S-8-5 (-40)
8 ----------------- 5S-8 (-22.5)
9 ----------------- 5S-7 (-30)
+
supplemental exercises
3 sets
-5+5 one arm ring rows + 15lbs
-20 second L-sits
-20 second L-sits
-5 very slow pushups ~12s ea (raised feet and on parallettes)
NOTES: Yet again surprised by the performance despite subtracting counterweight across the board. ~64
NOTES: Yet again surprised by the performance despite subtracting counterweight across the board. ~64
27 + 28 Mar Trad climbing
Climbed in the park with Bobby and his friend. They are new at trad and 3 people are slow, so each day I did 4 climbs. Stimulus was not very high
27th grades: 7+, 8,9,8
28th grades: 6,8,9,9 + 5.4 night solo
Climbed in the park with Bobby and his friend. They are new at trad and 3 people are slow, so each day I did 4 climbs. Stimulus was not very high
27th grades: 7+, 8,9,8
28th grades: 6,8,9,9 + 5.4 night solo
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