Aug 2021

4 Aug -- Max Hangs Hangboard #12

1 ----------------- 2S

2 ----------------- 2S (+15)

3 ----------------- 2S (+20)

4 ----------------- 1S,7 (-27.5)  -- keep

5 ----------------- 1S,9 (0 BW)  -- keep

6 ----------------- 2S (+27.5)

7 ----------------- 1S,7 (-22.5) -- keep

8 ----------------- 2S (+22.5)

9 ----------------- 2S (+15)

NOTES: for narrow pinch, I actually got the full hang on the SECOND go. I did this because I let my 2nd knuckles go out, instead of keeping the large fingers flat. I believe this is the proper technique and I should have gotten it much earlier. Made the jump with MR because 5 lbs off was almost nothing. Friction effectively takes care of it. It was a good choice. Going forward I should be able to continue this weekly now that the whole month of travelling has finally ended. 88-93F (yes, it varied that much over the half hour)

7 Aug -- outdoor climbing

Not much though. Morgan and Ryan came up to their desert house, so I tried and fell on a single climb on Saturday (11a sport. Had to cheat past the one crux, despite it being just one hard section, I don't think I'm even close to being able to do it. it's bad friction on small slopey edges). I then worked a little on the V3 pixie rock traverse and this V1 in the group campsites which always has a tent below it. No go for either

8 Aug -- outdoor bouldering, power endurance focus

Worked on the V5 roof crack "bob's big wedge". Very nice movement. Then went over to pigpen. I worked out part of the sequence down low in the cave! Just one more move to unlock and that's getting both my hands in the necessary starting position to finish it. Maybe not enough core strength, so I'm gonna build that a little. Then as usual, went over to work gunsmoke traverse with the 2:4 work:rest ratio 5x

11Aug -- Max Hangs Hangboard #13

1 ----------------- 2S

2 ----------------- 2S (+17.5)

3 ----------------- 1S,9 (+22.5)

4 ----------------- 2S (-27.5)  -- move on! 

5 ----------------- 9,6 (0 BW)  -- keep

6 ----------------- 2S (+30)

7 ----------------- 9,6 (-22.5) -- keep

8 ----------------- 2S (+25)

9 ----------------- 2S (+17.5) -- keep

+

3 sets of 4 attempts each on getting to a front lever (for getting the core ready for the pigpen). Attempts consist of pulling up to curled in knees, sticking one foot out, holding it, then slowly moving the other out. Usually I start lowering during this.

Notes: Using the changed grip for the narrow pinched worked great. Not so much for the wide pinch, still struggling with that difference. Unexplained weakness on the MR. Good temps. cloudy and 79-81F

14-15 Aug - bouldering outdoors. Not much success. However on Sunday I worked out the final move I was missing on pigpen. Also I was able to do the V2 exit crack again (which I didn't get the last few times I tried). So it's all coming together

18Aug -- Max Hangs Hangboard #14

1 ----------------- 2S

2 ----------------- 2S (+20)

3 ----------------- 2S (+25)

4 ----------------- 2S (-25)  -- keep just once to make sure it wasn't a fluke 

5 ----------------- 8,8 (0 BW)  -- keep

6 ----------------- 2S (+32.5)

7 ----------------- 2S (-22.5) -- move on?

8 ----------------- 2S (+27.5)

9 ----------------- 1S-7 (+17.5) -- keep

NOTES: accidentally bumped the medium edge up even though I didn't fully succeed last time. Pinches are building up nicely again. Yet again unexplained why my MR is just getting worse. No supplemental exercise because I think I'm tying gravity rail again tomorrow morning. 85F


Nothing for the rest of August. Missed the hangboard workout on the 25th because I was passing a kidney stone. Then the following weekend I didn't go out, mostly because it was just extra hot